CHAPTER XII.

Cromer-Flint Building-A Wasting Shore-The Poorer Classes

---Along the Norfolk Coast-Old Fishing Villages-A Bygone

Relic-The Gift of Age-A Hilly Road-The Glamour of

the Unknown-Ingworth Church-An Ancient Hour-glass

Holder -An Old Clerk and his Story-Aylsham-An Old

Posting House-Country Shops-Chat with a Farmer-A

Rose Garden in a Churchyard-Lightning Conductors .

.

CHAPTER XIV.

Bawdeswell-Deserted Highways-The Country from the Box

Seat-A Rebus-A Sudden Storm-East Dereham-Facts

in Paintings-A House of MDII.'--Architectural Scenery-

Cowper's Grave-A Pious Theft-St. Withburga's Well-A

Coloured Windmill-A curious Church Tower-A Ford on

the Way-Watton-The Scene of the Tragedy of the 'Babes

in the Wood'-A Steam Dog-cart-Another Rebus-The

Beauties of Wet Weather

CHAPTER XV.

CHAPTER XIII.

A Wooded Country-A Gipsy Encampment-Cawston Church-

A Grand Carved Roof-The 'Plough-light' Gallery-A Fine

Rood Screen-The Saint who cured the Gout-An Interest-

ing Fresco A Curiosity-Sall Church-Hard Times-The

Cottager's Want - Ancient Brasses - Birds in Church-

Reepham-Names not always pronounced as spelt-Two

Churches in one Churchyard-A Quaint Tomb to a Crusader 237

PAGE

Stormy Weather and Stony Roads-Over Croxton Heath-The

Making of a Highwayman-Thetford-An Old-time Hostel-

Ancient Earthworks-On the Wrong Road-The Charms of

the Unknown-A Relic of the Coaching Age-A Gipsies' En-

campment-An extraordinary Photographic Result-Ingham

-Trespassers will be Persecuted'!-The Pleasures of Pho-

tography.

217

256

274

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

Bury St. Edmunds—Mr. Pickwick a Personality—At the Sign of

the Angel-An Old-fashioned Host-English-grown Tobacco

-St. Edmund's Ruined Abbey-Curious Relics--The Monks

of old-' For England's Ancient Liberties -An Embalmed

Warrior-The Abbot's Bridge-A Lock of Mary Tudor's

Hair--A Gruesome Volume-A Splendid Norman Tower-

Origin of Gothic Architecture-A Magnificent Church-Flint

Buildings-A Wonderful Roof-A Ghastly Tomb - Old

Brasses and New Ones-A Quaint Epitaph.

CHAPTER XVII.

A Pleasant Country-Old Toll-gates-The Homes of the People

-The Modern and the Last Century Traveller Home

Travel-Ruskin on Railways-A Picturesque Village-An

Old Tudor Mansion-An Ancient Moated Manor House-

The Beauty of Old Buildings-An Ideal Hostelry-The

Coaching Inns of the Past-A Prosperous Farmer-One Re-

sult of Agricultural Depression-A Holiday in a Farmhouse

-

CHAPTER XVIII.

Sudbury-The Head of Archbishop Simon-A Gruesome Sight

---Quaint Tombstones-The Restorer again-An aged Clerk

-Old-fashioned Farming--Spoiling Scenery-Iron Buildings

-Past-time Customs-A Round Church-Halstead-An Old

Warrior's Shield-Names of Places on Maps-A Charming

Village Thatched Cottages-A half-timbered Home .

CHAPTER XIX.

Rural Inns-A Clever Conceit in Words-An Old Water-mill-

A Picture through a Photograph-Braintree-A Homelike

Land The Pleasures of the Road-A Day's Drive across

Country-Great and Little Leigh-A Village 'Store'-A

Unique Wooden Effigy-An Old Tudor Gateway - Old

Mansions and Modern Farmsteads

xiii

PAGE

290

308

327

343

CHAPTER XX.

Scenic Surprises-An Inviting Road-A Ruined Windmill----

Rooks-Little Waltham-Broomfield-An Old Friend - Rain

versus Dust-Writtle-Picturesque Essex--Curious Mist Ef-

fect-Nearly an Accident-Chipping Ongar-An Old Saxon

Wooden Church-A Pleasant Footpath-Names of Places--

An Edifying Conversation --Clerk-hunting

CHAPTER XXI.

The Oldest Church in England-Across Country-English

Scenery-Through Epping Forest—Drivers Asleep-Ching-

ford-The Royal Forest Hotel-Queen Elizabeth's Hunting

Lodge--Upstairs on Horseback-The Genus Tripper--To-

day and the Long Ago -Home Again-Pleasant Memories

of the Past

CHAPTER XXII.

On the Road-Hints upon Driving Tours.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CROXTON HEATH.

EVENING IN ESSEX .

AN OLD-TIME FARMSTEAD.

LAYER MARNEY TOWER, ESSEX

AN OLD ESSEX MILL.

IN THE LAND OF CONSTABLE .

ON THE SUFFOLK COAST

A SIXTEENTH-CENTURY HOME

AN ENGLISH HOLLAND

BARTON BROAD, NORFOLK

ON THE LONE NORFOLK COAST.

A RUINED WINDMILL IN THE FENS

AN ANGLER'S INN

A SUFFOLK LANDSCAPE

A MOATED MANOR HOUSE: KENTWELL HALL,

SUFFOLK

GREENSTEAD CHURCH, ESSEX.

SIGN OF THE FALGATE INN

ANCIENT HOUR-GLASS

HOLDER, INGWORTH

CHURCH

CARVING ON OLD HOUSE AT HALESWORTH

MAP OF ROUTE.