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When the time for the fair approached, liar workmanship, handsome creeses, camKali Pandapatan, with thirty followers, pilans, and barbaric toilet-articles. Dato was also the first to arrive. In fact, he Dra, Mastura's son, exhibited his own was several days too early. The exhibit creese, the handle of which is a remarkably he brought consisted of samples of the large tooth of a crocodile. numerous cereals raised on his plateau, Dato Bakee's exhibit was much like put up in little bamboo phials. The fight- Mastura's, but he also displayed fancying-cocks he started with he lost en route. colored sarongs, interwoven with silk, But he exhibited his own double-edged beautifully embroidered table-covers and dragon creese, with the blade inlaid with handkerchiefs, very pretty rattan mats, and silver, and his old and highly prized fili- the golden ear-rings of fine native workgree buyo-box. In addition, his women, manship which had belonged to his grandwhom he committed to my care and pro- mother. Bakee has his own brass foundry, tection, sent some burnt work of bamboo, and from his waxen molds come much of one piece being a little stick, with one end the brass ware that is sold in Cotabato; split into many parts, to use over a baby's but the brass that he exhibited was old and finger in order to protect the nail that it antique. He would not exhibit what he might grow long.

made to sell, nor sell what he had to exDato Mastura, Pandapatan's tradi- hibit. tional enemy, next sent in his exhibit. He Then down came old Piang in his barge had the collection of the princessa (now of state, propelled by seventy rowers. the Sultana of Maguindanao) to draw on, From the mast he flew his own peculiar and so was able to make a splendid exhibit, flag, yellow, red, and purple, while decowhich consisted of big, old bronze vases rations of all kinds covered the bamboo inlaid with silver, brazen urns, and large sides and nipa roof of the huge craft. As trays and jars of engraved, inlaid and beaten he approached, his native cannon work, graceful chow-dishes, silver and cop- fired as a salute, and one of his men was per buyo-boxes of antique design, bracelets badly burned and fell into the water. A of gold and silver, of great age and pecu- rowing clown at the bow, with humorous antics, set the time for the rowers, first a bananas, native fruits, beeswax, rosin, oil long stroke, then three short, quick ones, nuts (biau) for lighting, soap-bark, colthe small paddles splashing the water high ored mats and baskets, bijuca hammocks, in the joy of the motion. A little Bilan bead belts and baskets, bows and arrows drummer, in scarlet, and a dancing fool and spears decorated in colors with burnt kept time with the tom-toms of the women. work, canes, stools, chairs, and tables of

Dato Piang brought a large exhibit, but, hardwood and of fair workmanship. under pretense of modesty, he hesitated to So numerous were the different exhibits outshow the others. He is half-Chinese, that space in the District Building, where very wealthy, and very crafty. Not to be they were displayed, was at a premium. outdone in anything, he subscribed one And as the fair progressed, more datos hundred pesos to the fair. He brought a with more produce kept arriving. In fact, pony, game-cocks, poultry, iguanas, and Moros and Monobos were still coming to crocodiles. With him he had forty different the fair a week after it was over. kinds of cooked food, which he chose not The exhibits were finally arranged by to exhibit. He brought tobacco, tree cot- tribal wards, and the people were admitton, rice, poisonous roots, much brass ware, ted. With their datos, they were encourhunting-knives with deerhorn handles, aged to make comparisons between their daggers with gold and silver handles and own exhibits and those from other parts inlaid blades, working-knives, creeses, and of the district in order to incite competicampilans. One creese had a handle inlaid tion and increase production. with American five- and ten-dollar gold Attention was also directed to samples pieces. Piang also brought many pieces of our own agricultural implements, the of crude pottery, the product of his own uses of which were demonstrated on every factory.

fair-day. Dato Kali Adam, the wise and good, Later, at the close of the fair, prizes was able to make only a small exhibit, be- were awarded by a mixed committee, cause, as he stated, his people would not American, Spanish, Filipino, Moro, and work. He could not even get them up at Chinese, the Tirurays securing eleven sunrise to pray, though they would get up prizes, Piang seven, Bakee three, Kali at any hour to gamble. He asked me to Pandapatan two, Mastura two, Balabaorder them to pray, and to give him the dan two, Manguda sa Talayan two, Mopower to send them away if they did not puk one, and Enrique one. obey. One of Kali Adam's exhibits was Dato Dra had brought in Moros from a valued chow-dish. It was made from his father's ward, and with branches of the bowl of an ordinary American nickled palm-trees had decorated the streets. The lamp, with the top cut away to receive a water-front now became a line of flutterflat cover.

ing bunting, for all the river datos had Rajah Muda Mopuk and Dato Ampa- come down in barges brightly decorated tuan, Ali's war chief, brought in only for the occasion. Dato Balabadan, with the products of their forests.

three of his ten wives, was here, as was Of the pagan tribes, the Monobos ex- Rajah Muda Asad, who was about to lead hibited nothing but their own weaving of a party on the long pilgrimage to Mecca. coarse hemp cloth, decorated with bead- All the country-side turned out, and the work. The Bilan tribe was too wild to interior as well. do more than send a few representatives. The streets of Cotabato became a mass When one of these had seen and felt ice, of surging, half-naked brown men and he asked me to give him a small piece to women wearing bright, barbaric colors. take back with him to show to his people Spears and creeses were everywhere in eviin the mountains. The Tudugs did not dence, though the constabulary, themselves come at all.

Moros, had induced the majority of the The Tiruray tribe, under their mestizo people to leave their weapons in their headman, came in with a large exhibit boats. which would have been a credit to any fair Each headman, moving about the town, at home. They brought hemp, rubber, was followed by such a concourse of peosugar-cane, tobacco, corn, melons, lemons, ple that they blocked the streets. Whersweet potatoes, onions, squash, peanuts, ever Adriano Acosta went, three hundred wild Tirurays, of whom twenty were and fifty of his people and his relative, the timuays (chiefs), followed, and they so Sultan of Maguindanao, with the yellow crowded into the presidente's new house umbrella. Mantauiel from away up the that they threw it out of plumb.




river, Ynuk from the swamp lake, DilanWith Sultan Telekoko were three hun- galan and Djimbangan, Sansaluna and dred Moros from Bagumbayan. With Kulee, the pagans Cinkala and Sambulao, Dato Bakee came two hundred Moros each, with his separate following, joined from Kalaganan. Other chiefs had fol- the crowd. Such numbers elbowed in that lowers in proportion.

the program had to be suspended until the Along with their timuays came the Tir- constabulary beat the crowd back. In the uray dancing-girls, their ears pierced from meantime the Philippine Scout Band had lobe to tip. Men, women, and little girls started playing in another place, and the danced together to the sounds of a stringed music called the crowd away. bamboo instrument. These sounds, united Early during the fair the captain Chinawith those of the numerous brass bracelets man, old Celestino, came to ask that the and anklets, as the bare heels stamped the rules against gambling be suspended, as ground, made pleasant music. The danc- the Chinamen wanted to enjoy a little ers circled about, one following the other, diversion in celebration of the occasion. whirling as they went, the girls keeping This was not allowed, but it later aptime most modestly with graceful gestures peared that some gambling did occur. I of their arms, hands, and heads.

had tried several times in vain to buy a Into the midst of this rode old Piang on huge urn from Mastura's exhibit, but on a prancing pony decorated with plumes the morning after the last night of the and jingling sleigh-bells. Dancing in front fair Dato Dra brought it to me. He was of him came his fiercely helmeted clown, haggard and worn. An all-night contest beating a snare-drum, and the little red- was written on his face. He needed clad Bilan, beating a tom-tom, making money. At last he confessed that the music with his steps. Accompanying Chinamen had had their diversion at his Piang were four hundred of his Moros, expense. good-naturedly pushing into the crowd. As the fair progressed, the agricultural

Then came Mastura with four hundred implements attracted increasing interest, and datos and taos took turns plowing, the river for the vinta (boat) races; and harrowing, and cultivating. The wilder here the Moros, in the presence of the the people were, the more interest they general, the governor, and the hundred showed. Dato Ampatuan, who less than chiefs, outshone even themselves. Then a year before was fighting us, showed the came the foot-races, and although the taos how to plow, the Sultan of Maguin- Moro can outrow all others, he cannot danao worked the forge, Dato Ynuk man- run with the Tiruray, whose fear makes aged the cultivator, and the Tirurays har- him Aeet. The competitors were to run rowed. The cultivators and harrows at- to a line and return. The slowest one in tracted most interest, as with these the the race kept running until he saw the most ground can be covered with the least leaders turn; then he turned, and easily effort. All were inquiring the prices of beat the swiftest to the starting-point; the implements, and Ynuk wanted to buy and he took away a prize, for his trick a cultivator and half a harrow.

was not seen by the native judges. To enliven things, field-events were Then came the Cotabato Carnival Proincluded in the exercises. First, a sack- cession, some afoot, some in bull-carts, race occurred, the contestants being Moro, some in mule-carts, and some astride. Filipino, Tiruray, and Chinese boys. This This merged into theatricals, in which the event caused some excitement, but it was Conquest of Jolo was portrayed. nothing to that aroused by the tug of war. Toward evening, the headmen, datos, The Moros on one side, with my orderly, timuays, and chiefs met with the provinSaligidan, as captain, and the Tirurays on cial and district governors in a large, open the other, with some army officers backing room to talk of peace, prosperity, and govthem, settled down for a steady pull. It

It ernment by law. They listened and rewas quite even, first one side hauled the plied; they asked questions and were inmark a trifle and then the other. The structed. And, while so engaged, in came excitement spread. Would the sons of the pagan Cinkala. He entered in halfMohammed be outdone by the Pagan Tir- naked, native dignity, walked clear around urays? But the Tirurays were big fel- them all, passed in front of the two sullows, and held like posts. The Moros tans, and approached the governor. The yelled at one another and then at their sultans frowned, and two Moros got him team. Still the Tirurays held. This was and set him in his place beside the door. unbearable. Hot temper came as a wave. The hundred chiefs then took the talk Allah! they must beat the pagans! They away and brought it to the subject of the closed their black, concavely filed teeth coming marriage of the Sultan Magueeand, mad with fury, willed to win. A A guin with the princessa. And, because Tiruray shifted his foot ever so little, and they had no more important subject than the mark moved Moroward; then a ner- this to discuss, we concluded that they vous pull, and it moved farther; then, were contented with the government given with one heart-ruining effort, the mark to them, and that they believed in our enpassed the line, and the Moros yelled like deavors to better their condition. demons over their victory.

On this last night an eclipse of the Then Moro girls from the princessa's moon occurred. The night was clear. household came and danced. With hair No one failed to witness it. The Moros piled high in peaks, pink-stained finger- believed a great fight was on between the nails inches long, cheeks and lips painted sun and the moon, and that the moon was red, these girls appeared in pairs. To the being eaten up. They got tom-toms, deafening tom-toms they posed, and moved, drums, kettles, pans, and horns, anything and struck their shapely toes, backs down, to make a noise, anything to help the upon the mat, gracefully waving handker

The night air became saturated chiefs on the left, while on the right they with sound. The din was awful; but passed to and fro their spangled fans. finally the moon was saved. It came out

Next day the Scout Band called the peo- whole and uneaten. The Moros had the ple together to learn the uses of American satisfaction of believing that they had tools. When they had seen them, and all helped in this. So homeward they went, the tools were purchased, they drifted to tired and content.


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THO wish no worlds to conquer, they are craven men and churls,


Who rot at home in quiet over tasks but fit for girls,

Nor heed the wild sea crying where white the billows run.
The spirit of our fathers that stirs our blood to fire,

The heritage of courage, the mighty gift of brawn
That dowered us from the cradle, they were not meant for hire,

Or to waste in idle chafing, when the battle-lot is drawn.
Who wish no worlds to conquer, let them stay and till the fields,

Let them bend their backs in labor while we launch upon the foam, For the salt is in our nostrils, and the magic that it wields

Is sweeping from the western sea to urge us from our home. To bask in tropic sunshine; to battle with the storm;

The wealth of fabled islands; and distant, unknown lands, Where the shady palm-groves greet us or glistening icebergs form;

They are beckoning and calling, and our ships are on the sands. Who wish no worlds to conquer, they will welcome us again,

They will glory in our conquests, and will wonder at our gifts. The salt is in our nostrils, and the sea is whipped with rain,

And our ships are slipping westward where the breaking fog-bank lifts.

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