only average merit and local reputation. The claret country, par excellence, lies north of Bordeaux, occupying less than half of the breadth of the tapering knot of land extending between the Gironde and the ocean. A line drawn from Bordeaux to the nearest point of coast would form the base of a triangle, of which the river on one hand, and the sea on the other, would constitute the sides. Divide this triangle longitudinally into two unequal parts. The greater and seaward portion is the northern point of the waste of the Landes, the smailer and landward district includes the precious strip of gravelly country called Medoc. Here, then, on a slice of land, some twenty miles long and two or three miles broad, is collected that mass of pebbles, sand, and powdered rock, which by some mystic process endows the vines springing from it with properties which render them the most famous in the world.

ingly trifling. The cattle bred are fed entirely upon grass or natural hay. Artificial meadows are unknown, and the natural meadow land is very seldom improved, either by levelling or drainage. The consequence is that a considerable portion of the food necessary for the live stock of the district is obtained from the neighbouring department of the Charente Inferieure.

The wants of the vineyards occasion the culture of a considerable extent of copsewood and willow beds. The stakes for supporting the vines, the hoops for encircling the casks, and the willow withes with which they are bound, are thus to a great degree furnished in the district. The small osier is much used in fastening the vine to its echalas or prop, and so great is the demand for this species of wood, that the quantity of swampy river-side ground fitted for its culture has of late years considerably increased in value.

The richest soil of the department is that which Taking then a bird's-eye view of the landward lies between the two rivers above their point of half of the Gironde, we find it to consist of a flat or junction—a flat, occasionally swampy, country gently undulating country-vineyards, corn land, known as Entre deux Mers. So far as general natural meadows, and swampy bottoms interagricultural stock is concerned, the department mingling-the whole expanse traversed by two possesses about 119,000 head of horned cattle and broad tidal rivers, fed by many slowly flowing tri420,000 head of sheep, besides a proportionate butaries-the cultivation of the vine gradually exnumber of pigs and goats. Towards the apex of tending in importance and value as we proceed seathe triangle which I have indicated-namely, the ward, until the gravelly terrace upon which its best point of land formed by the junction of the Gironde powers are put forth fades away and is absorbed with the sea-lie some of the best pasture grounds, in the barren belt of the Landes. Here almost all the vine soil gradually deteriorating, and at length cultivation ceases. A little millet, black barley, or disappearing some few miles to the southward. As maize, may here and there struggle into existence; may be anticipated, it is upon the valuable produc- but the sweeping westerly wind in general passes tions of the vineyards that the greater part of the over deserts of wavy sand, bound together by bent agricultural intelligence and skill of the district is and lichen growths, and tenanted by straggling lavished. The cultivation of the arable and the flocks of lean ashen-coloured sheep, grubbing out management of the pasture lands are equally a miserable living from the dry and stunted herslovenly and ineffective. The species of tenure in bage. To the southward these extensive wastes principal use is that very common in the south of of sand produce gloomy forests of pine, and a speFrance, but comparatively little known in its cies of stunted scrubby oak. To the northward northern and central districts (with the exception, they are broken by tracts of brackish swamp, or perhaps, of the cases in which the agreement is re-long chains of shallow ponds, containing the surface sorted to by the small proprietary class)-I mean drainage of the land, which is prevented by interthe métayage system. This is a species of holding, vening sand-hills from escaping into the ocean, and under which the cultivator or tenant pays no fixed which only finds an outlet at distantly-situated rent, but gives up a proportion-generally one half points, where the level of the water has attained a of the whole fruits-to the proprietor, who is also certain degree of elevation. Of the Landes and bound to furnish certain assistance towards the their inhabitants I shall have more to say in a future tillage of the land. In the Gironde the proprietor communication. The shepherds of the lean and takes half the produce, providing the oxen for tattered flocks which wander over their pathless ploughing, and a stipulated number of sheep-solitudes form a class of people in many respects which frequently, I am informed, in consequence of sui generis. They dress in sheepskins, and pass imperfect tending, commit more damage than is their days mounted upon huge stilts, so as to enable repaid either by wool or manure. The métayers them the better to traverse the sandy plains and are, in general, wretchedly poor-in fact, mere shallow pools among which their occupation lies. labourers, destitute of either capital or intelligence. Living in almost constant solitude, these poor peoAs a body they were described to me as being so ple are rudely ignorant and superstitious. In the full of bigotry and old-fashioned prejudice, that it Landes I am assured that belief in sorcery and was excessively difficult for any proprietor to intro- witchcraft is just as strongly rooted now as it was duce upon his land anything like agricultural im- in the sixteenth century. The legends of the Hartz provement. It was only after a long and hard have, somehow, travelled to these swampy deserts, struggle that the planting of the potato became and the peasants will show you the spot where all general-the people having been somehow im- the sorcerers and magicians, the witches and warpressed with the notion that the vegetable in ques locks of the country, meet to hold their devil's sabtion caused epilepsy! No other manure than that baths. The scenes of these unhallowed revels are furnished by the dung-heap is ever used or thought usually said to be particular expanses of fine dry of, and the extent of drainage effected is excecd-sand, within which not a blade of aught green cau

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grow. These are the haunted spots of the Landes, bearing corn, seem to be exactly those which make and on no account will the wandering shepherd it proper for rearing the vine in its very highest dare to cross them after nightfall. To be buffeted perfection. This dry scorched sand, this imperby goblins, and gibbered at by thousands of throng-meable subsoil, tinctured with microscopic particles ing sprites, is the least which can be expected by of iron, is exactly the bed suited to the vine. the rash intruder upon those unholy sands. Moody Through the masses of hot gravel its roots shoot and sombre as is the ordinary mental tone of the and twine, sucking up that mystic aliment which believers in these ghastly tales-brooding and the sap carries through the veins of the plant, and gloomy in spirit, and taciturn and slow of speech, which gives the fruit its subtle virtues. The masses the peasants of the Landes can seldom be accused of smooth round pebbles, shining and semi-transof churlishness or inhospitality; and miserably poor parent, from which the stem grows, reflect upas the vast majority of them are, a wandering wards upon the overhanging grapes the rays of the stranger will always have his portion of the scanty sun, so as to ripen them the sooner-while the fare they are able to command. gentle inclinations and half-visible slopes, the softly

So much then for the general aspect and charac-rounded hills and shallow hollows, which form the teristics of the Gironde. I now turn more especially to that portion of it devoted to the culture of the vine.

The Coteaux belong, geologically speaking, to the tertiary formation-the soil being composed of clay, marl, lime, and gravel. The top stratum is thin, and lies upon a bed of exceedingly hard, stiff, and tenacious earth. Upon land of this character little or no natural vegetation takes place; and it is the opinion of French cultivators that the expense which would be necessary to prepare the earth for grain or vegetable crops would far exceed any return which could be possibly derived from it. Besides this, the land frequently runs in such steep slopes as would render cultivation, other than that required for the vine, a task of great difficulty. The ground, then, appears to be formed by nature for the purpose to which it is now put; drainage is found to deteriorate rather than improve it; and the few attempts which have from time to time been made to convert portions of the soil into corn land have been total failures.

The name of Graves is bestowed upon banks or plains consisting of a mixture, in different proportions, of gravel, sand, shingle, and a species of limy clay, supposed to have been here deposited by currents of water flowing in different directions and at different levels from those which would be permitted by the present lie of the country. The depth of the upper stratum varies from a few inches to as many feet, and many of the pebbles found in it are flinty, semi-translucent, and capable of receiving a high polish. The subsoil is occasionally of clay in a few spots of rock-but generally either of pure sand or a species of ferruginous deposit, perfectly impermeable to water, and locally known as "alios." This latter material must be broken up before vines are planted above it. A peculiar property of this species of soil is, that not only is it naturally arid, but that it retains with singular tenacity the heat communicated by the sun. This characteristic of the land is one which would cause it, in agricultural nomenclature, to be ranked as one of those burning soils which in their nature are radically unfit for the ordinary purposes of tillage.

The properties, however, which unfit land for

surface of the soil, are admirably adapted to allow on all sides the free access of sun and wind, drying all superfluous moisture, and producing, even through the most tangled clusters of leaves, constant currents of pure warm air. It seems a curious anomaly in the natural history of the vine, that a plant, thriving as it does only on hot dry surfaces, seems nevertheless to be constantly improved by the vicinity of streams of running water. A classic tradition speaks of certain noted Thracian vineyards which lost their reputation after the course of a neighbouring river had been diverted; and every one knows that in the case of three at least of the most celebrated wines of Europe, the grapes are grown on the banks of as many of its most celebrated streams.

The third species of soil upon which the Gironde vines are cultivated, is known as Les Palus. These consist of rich alluvial beds, perfectly different in their formation and character from the dry sandy nature of the other wine-bearing soil. The Palus generally lie along the margin of the rivers, and consist principally of rich earthy deposits, brought down by the streams. They contain the fattest and most fertile land of the whole province, and would, if so employed, bear magnificent crops of corn. The vine, however, furnishes the most gainful harvest, and to the vine the Palus are exclusively devoted. The vines grown upon these luxuriant loamy beds are strong and full in body, rough in flavour, and they are those which a sea-voyage is necessary fully to ripen and mellow. The clarets sent to the East and West Indies, and to America, were formerly the exclusive products of the Palus of Bordeaux.

The vine is propagated from suckers or slips. If left in its original wild state it produces a comparatively small quantity of fruit, but it lives and flourishes for centuries, the trunk occasionally acquiring a remarkable development. Culture in general increases the product, but shortens the life of the plant. The duration of the latter, however, depends in a great degree upon the nature of the soil in which it grows. In strong clayey land the vine lives and bears for a long time, and when the subsoil is rocky the greatest degree of longevity is obtained. Many vines are yet in full bearing in the Gironde which are known to be more than a century old; and in one spot in the district, growing from a grave, and mingled with strong adhesive soil, some trunks are shown, still sending forth leaves, tendrils, and a few grapes, which the tradi

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rested and carefully replaced in their original position. The space between each rank depends upon the quality of the ground. A metre (about 34 feet) is the average distance allowed in the case of the vineyards ploughed by means of oxen. In heavy soil, worked by hand with the hoe, the distance between each vine plot is greater-from four to six feet.

tion of the country asserts to have been fruit-bearing voirs, in which descending morsels of soil are arplants in the sixteenth century. Whatever may be the truth of the legend, there is no doubt but that the vines in question are centuries old, and that they still yield a small quantity of good wine. The planting of vine slips commences in the month of February, and ends in May. When a rainy summer follows the results are uniformly successful. In five years a young vine ought by its produce to cover the expenses of its rearing. Within ten or twelve years of its planting it has acquired its full fruit-producing powers. The purer the sand and gravel from which a vine grows, the sooner does it arrive at maturity, and the sooner is it "used up." The ordinary calculation is that the plants in a vineyard ought to be replaced every fifty years at the furthest.

The varieties of vines and grapes grown in the Medoc and the surrounding district are endless, and each species of plant, distinguished although it may be by hardly appreciable differences, has its local name and reputation. Sometimes the distinction is in the shape of the leaf, sometimes in the length of the tendril, sometimes in the colour of the grape, sometimes in the savour of its juice, and sometimes The young vines are reared much as seedlings in the colour, spirit, bouquet, or capability for long are in our own nursery gardens. In planting the preservation, of the wine which it produces. The slips it is thought to be of importance that the highest class of wines in the Claret districts are lower part of the shoot should be of last year's produced by amalgamations, in differing propor wood, as being harder and less apt to rot in case of tions, of seven classes of vine-plants, locally known over-abundant moisture. The slips are carefully as Le Carmanet, Le Gros Verdot, Le Petit Verdot, cleaned and examined, to ascertain if the wood is La Carmenere, Le Merlot, Le Malbech and Le in a ripe state; and, if the weather be dry, they Massontet. The Carmanet and the Carmenere are are soaked for some hours before insertion in the frequently the only plants used in the highest class earth. A trench or broad furrow is then drawn of vineyards. The Gros Verdot, in years when it along the whole length of earth to be planted. The ripens perfectly, is said to produce the best wine in breadth of this rigole, as it is called, ought to be Medoc. These occasions are, however, rare. The about a foot-its proper depth depending upon the last four seasons in which perfectly matured crops quality of the soil. If the latter be very dry, the of its grapes were procured, were 1815, 1819, 1822, depth is made about equal to the breadth. When and 1825. Next to the peculiar influences of soil, the earth has more of juice and richness, the depth the proportions in which the vine plants enumerated is proportionably diminished. Along the furrow above are found in the same vineyard are held to the slips are planted at a distance from each other determine the more subtle and delicate qualities of of from five to six inches. The second furrow is the wine. The vines producing the second and drawn at about a foot distance from the first, and third class vintages are Le Mancin, Le Leinturier, the whole of the shoots being set so as to slant along La Peluille, La Petite Chalosse Noire, Le Cruchinet, the surface at an acute angle, a light roller is passed and Le Ciontat. The fourth mentioned of these over them so as to assure their continuing in their vines produces the fruit generally served up in the almost vertical position-which is held to be more Bordeaux district for dessert- and remarkably poor favourable than a perpendicular one for the subse-tasting fruit, I may remark en passant, it is; in quent transplanting process.

fact, the finest wine grapes are hardly worth eating. Sometimes, however, vine slips are set in the spots Chateau Margaux is made of a poor insipid berry, after the fashion in which they are meant to grow. not unlike in savour to an over-ripe and rainThis method is locally denominated à planter en drenched black currant. Teetotallers may say what plantes. The earth is first thoroughly broken up they please, but grapes were intended by nature for -the deeper the better-and great pains are taken wine and for little else. Let those who doubt the to extirpate all noxious weeds. Furrows, locally assertion try a bunch of the grapes of Chateau called "ranks," are then traced from end to end of Margaux and a glass of their fermented juice. The the field-if possible in a direction either from north Chalosse Noire is remarkable for its keeping pro to south, or from east to west. Occasionally, how-perties. Hung up in clusters in a dry place, it ever, the slope of the ground, which it is generally will remain good until the spring following its pronecessary to follow for drainage purposes, neces- duction. sitates an oblique course for the furrows-standing The white wines of Bordeaux are little known ia water in a vineyard soon rotting the plant, and in- England. Nevertheless, the quantity grown, prinvariably ruining the quality of the wine. Upon cipally for French consumption, is very considerable. very steep slopes another plan is adopted. The The vines producing white wine are in general lower ranks are arranged horizontally across the descent than the plants giving red. The ranks in which -it being feared that, were they drawn right up they are planted have open spaces left between and down, the rapid flow of surface-water in the them, in which corn, vegetables, or clover, are culcase of heavy rains would carry along with it the tivated. In the vineyards producing the inferior precious morsels of hot sand and shining gravel, growths, the plants are left unsupported. The in which all the mystic virtue lies. To facilitate, earth, in these latter cases, is annually stirred round however, the escape of rain water, channels are cut the roots of the plants by means of the hoe. In here and there transversely across the furrows- the better class of vineyards, the ranks are ploughed dotted now and then with little basins as reser- four times per season, the process being effected

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the machine is followed in its slow process among The vintage in Medoc, in favourable years, takes the vines by men and women armed with hoes, place in the first fortnight of September. The prewho, with light and careful touches, stir the soil sent season has, however, been backward, and Ocbetween the roots. The first ploughing terminates tober had advanced a few days before the " before April. The second takes place during the thorities "issued their injunction for the in-gathering following month, and is so managed as to turn of the grapes. Let me add here, that the vintage back around the roots the earth which the first law only applies to the vineyards cultivated en ploughing has removed from them. This double plein champ-that is to say, unfenced in the open process is repeated before the summer heats come field. A vineyard close to a dwelling-place, and on. In July, the leaves of the plant are thinned so fenced or walled round, is considered as in the as to give free passage to the warmth and air, and nature of a garden, and may be dealt with at the inconceivable pains are taken in order that each proprietor's pleasure. The "ban" having been is bunch of unripe fruit may be fairly exposed to the sued for the commune or the arrondissement, work hot sunshine. As the grapes grow very low upon immediately commences, if the weather be at all the vine, it sometimes happens that the work people, favourable. It is reckoned of great importance while traversing the ranks, _cover some of the that the process of culling and gathering should go bottom clusters with earth. To remedy this, the on without interruption; and, if the weather be unworkmen are followed by bands of women whose settled, the vintager will often suspend his operaduty it is carefully to examine the root of each plant, tions until he judges that he has a good chance of and to lift and cleanse any grapes which may have completing them under a cloudless sky. If posbeen accidentally buried. sible, a vineyard is clean picked in two or three The Medoc vines are universally trained to hori-days-the fewer the better. The time, however, zontal slips of lath, supported upon short stakes not necessarily depends upon the supply of labour, much above two feet high. The vertical laths run which is generally fluctuating, and on the condition in uninterrupted lines from one end of the vineyard of the grapes-the varying state of ripeness of to another; and some skill is required in training which makes selection of the bunches necessary. the branches, so as to give the fruit the benefit of The first caskfuls of juice are said to make the best as much sun and air as possible, without unduly wine. In the case of the premiers crus, much pains twisting or straining the fibres of the wood. The are taken in the triage, or picking out of the grapes upright props are almost always made of splinters in full condition-the unripe and the over-ripe and of the walnut tree-the horizontal laths of fir. The material for the former is brought in great quantities from Perigord; the latter is the product of the pines of the Landes. The withes used for fastening the tendrils grow in the swampy meadow-land by the Garonne.

The pruning and training processes which I have described, are said to be very expensive, from the immense amount of hand-labour required. I am informed that the vine proprietors are very anxious to change the system, but that they find insurmountable objections in the stupidity and bigoted ignorance of the workpeople, who cannot be persuaded to attempt any other than the old-fashioned mode of culture handed down from generation to generation.

mouldy fruit being alike left for the manufacture of an inferior class of wine. In the ordinary run of vineyards, however, no such precautions are practically-whatever they may be theoretically-attended to. Hard, uncoloured, and unripe fruit, is mingled in the reeking tubs with compacted masses of grapy matter, slimy and mouldy, the effect of the bursting of the majority of grapes in the cluster. The over-sweetness of the last-mentioned lumps of congealed juice, I was told, would compensate for the over-acidity of the unripe fruit. In the whitewine vintage, even from the best growths, there is no picking and choosing, unless the quantity of grapes over-ripe, or pourris, as the phrase is, be very considerable indeed.

After the vines grown upon the gravelly soil of The winter seasons which are most favourable to the Medoc, those the products of the Palus (or rich the vine are those in which moderate frosts prevail. loamy deposits contained in the basin of the The plant can bear a temperature of from six to Garonne) were formerly reckoned the most valuable. eight degrees below freezing-point without injury. Indeed, these latter growths were those which oriA tolerably smart and continuous frost is indeed ginally conferred on the Gironde its wine reputation, hailed by the vine proprietors as likely to do good and they were known and esteemed through Europe service in the way of killing insects. A moderately before the magic properties of Medoc gravel had dry spring is essential to a good vintage. Rains at ever been dreamed of. The Palus wines are rich, that period of the year prevent the necessary plough-strong-bodied, highly coloured, long in attaining ing, and breed legions of destructive slugs and snails. their most perfect condition, but capable of preThe vine blooms towards the end of May, and dry serving their best qualities for ages. The bouquet hot weather is then anxiously desired. The charac- has a flavour of raspberries. When sea voyages teristics of a summer favourable to the vine are a were generally longer than they are now, the prohigh degree of average temperature, and occasional ducts of the Palus vintages were the only growth of rains followed by cloudy weather, particularly after the Gironde which would bear the necessarily the season at which the plant blossoms, and at that lengthened exposure to a tropical climate, so often when the grape begins to change its colour. For resorted to, in order to ripen the wine. Casks were the remainder of the growing time, hot dry weather sometimes even sent upon two or three expeditions is essential-autumnal rains damaging the flavour to the Indian Ocean before their contents were of the grape by causing an over degree of circulation held to have arrived at the most perfect and delicious stage of development. For some time after

of sap.