curious hybrids. This is all speculative; but such speculations are, unlike many others, exceedingly innocent and interesting.

ROSA MICROPHYLLA.

(THE SMALL-LEAVED ROSE.)

Rosa microphylla rubra, from which we have derived all our varieties of this pretty family, was introduced from the East in 1823. It is nearly allied to the Macartney, and is most probably a Chinese hybrid of that rose. The original imported plant bearing double flowers makes it appear more probable that it is a mere garden variety. I have received seed from Italy of this rose, and find that plants from it, to use a florist's term, sport amazingly, no two appearing alike.

From Italian seed we have Alba odorata, a vigorous-growing variety, partaking as much of the Macartney Rose in its habit as of Rosa microphylla; in fact, it is a complete hybrid. This is a good evergreen rose, producing an abundance of pale sulphur, or rather cream-coloured flowers: they are sweet-scented, but do not in general open freely. Carnea, or Rosea, is a pretty and remarkable rose, forming a neat little bush, nearly evergreen; its flowers are double, and of a beautifully

cupped shape. Coccinea, as in one or two instances which I have noticed, is named with a florist's licence: it is not scarlet, but a very pretty double rose, of a deep reddish-rose colour, with the same neatly shaped flowers as the last: to these may be added Purpurea, Rubra variegata, and Violacea, three varieties quite new; but, as they have not yet bloomed in this country, no opinion can be given of their merits.

With the exception of Alba odorata, these roses are not hardy enough to bear exposure in wet and cold soils: they will perhaps grow for a time, but seldom bloom well. A warm and dry elevated border will suit them admirably, protecting them with some spray, &c., as directed for Noisette roses: but to see these very curious roses bloom in perfection, bud them on short stems of the Dog Rose, and treat them exactly as recommended for the Tea-scented Roses; they will then bloom freely, either in pots or in the flower-borders, and form delightful little plants, quite unique in their characters and appearance.

A few of these may be planted against a hot wall, as recommended for the Macartney Roses; and, possibly, Purpurea, fertilised with a brightcoloured China Rose, as Fabvier, would give some curious varieties. The Single Microphylla, with Athelin or Henri Barbet, would perhaps give some original and beautiful hybrids. Coccinea might also be fertilised with the Tuscany. If

any of these roses can be made to produce seed, interesting and curious varieties must be the result.

PROPAGATION OF AUTUMNAL ROSES.

As with the Summer Roses, these may be propagated by layers, budding, grafting, and by cuttings; the latter mode is the only one requiring especial notice, as the other methods applied to Summer Roses are of equal use in propagating these. All the families in this division are propagated with great facility by cuttings; in fact, with China, Bourbon, and Tea Roses, it is the only eligible way of getting plants on their own roots. There are three seasons in which this operation may be performed with success, in spring, summer, and autumn.

For spring cuttings, it will be necessary to resort to the forcing-house in the month of March, when those roses that were commenced to be forced in January will be just shedding their first crop of flowers; these blooming shoots will then be ripe and, as a general rule, fit for immediate propagation, either for cuttings or buds. It must be borne in mind, that no shoots are mature till their blooming is past. The cuttings may be made with three joints or buds, from the lower end of which the leaf should be cut, leaving the others untouched; the cutting must then be in

pot of

They are then safe, another frame, still

serted about one inch into a very small light mould, or peat and sand, equal parts: with rare sorts two buds will do, or even one; in the latter case, the bud must have the leaf attached, and a small portion of wood below the bud; it must be inserted in the pot so that the bud is slightly covered with the mould. The pots should then be plunged in sawdust or old tan, into a gentle hot-bed, and kept perfectly close, sprinkled with tepid water every morning, and shaded from the sun. In about a fortnight they will have taken root, but they must not be removed from this close frame till they have made a shoot from one to two inches in length. and may be removed into with gentle heat, and have air every day to harden them. In a week they will be fit to pot into larger pots, and they may then be removed into the greenhouse or cold frame as convenient, till required for planting out in the borders in April and May the pots used for the above purpose are very small, 2 inches deep and 1 inch over at the top; if more convenient, three or five cuttings may be placed round the side of a larger sized pot, 3 inches deep by 3 inches over. This method saves some trouble, but the plants are apt to be checked when potted off; pots of the latter size must be filled one third with broken pieces of pots, on which the base of the cuttings should rest; the small pots require no drainage.

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For summer cuttings in June and July, ripe shoots may be taken as above directed, planted in pots, and placed in a cold frame, kept close, and sprinkled every morning. These will root slowly, but surely; for autumnal cuttings any convenient and spare shoots may be made into cuttings, and planted under a hand-glass in a warm exposure, about the middle or end of September: these must have air in mild humid weather during the winter, and be gradually exposed to the air in April by tilting the light: by the end of April they will be fit for potting. All the autumnal roses will grow readily if the above methods are followed. The Damask Perpetuals only are slow in rooting, and are propagated with more difficulty.

BUDDING ROSES IN POTS.

The Blush Boursault makes the best stock for budding on; it strikes readily from cuttings planted in the autumn. My practice in budding on the Boursault is as follows:-The strongest shoots are selected early in July for layering; flower-pots of the size 48 are taken, and the aperture at the bottom is enlarged, so as to allow the end of the shoot to be passed through. After doing this the shoot is tongued; the pot is drawn up till the tongue is about in the centre; it is then filled with a mixture of rotten dung and