towns, amid a variety of trees, including generally the banana and palm, is, on the whole, cheerful, and the inhabitants, so far as the traveler by railway can judge, are temperate and contented. The houses, or rather huts, of the poor are built of unburned bricks, are of a brown or earth color, have wooden window-shutters, but no glass windows, and usually palm-thatched roofs. Generally, near the house is a little patch of ground fenced with upright poles of irregular height. Mules, goats, and hogs are the kinds of live-stock most commonly seen. The railway-station buildings, though not spacious, are outwardly neat. They are of concrete, a story and a half high, with projecting tiled roofs, walls white and thick, with a strip two feet in width painted red around the base, for an imitation foundation. The station Sitio, at the foot of the Mantiqueira range, has an attractive flowergarden attached to it, as is the excellent custom in some of the countries in the north of Europe, and which always make an agreeable impression on the traveler.

The railway on this line is owned and managed by the Government. The employés wear citizen's clothing, and are unpretentious in their manners. The cars were made in Brazil, the inside finish being of light-colored hard wood, with cane-seated, high-back chairs, in pairs, permanently fixed, and facing each other, on each side of the car, with a passage-way in the center. Closets are attached to the cars, after the American system. It is the fashion among Brazilian male passengers to wear brown or white linen overcoats to keep off the dust, and to smoke cigarettes in any car, as a matter of course. There are no separate cars for ladies. There is no discrimination on account of color. In going from Rio passengers get a late breakfast at Barra de Pirahy, and on the return trip

dine at the same place. One dollar is charged for a meal. Pure and good black coffee, in small cups, with other refreshments, is served at Entre Rios, and several other places. On the whole, I think that American visitors to Brazil would find a trip into the interior, on this or some other route, highly interesting, and such as would leave lasting and agreeable impressions on the mind.

CHAPTER X.

VISIT TO A COFFEE-PLANTATION.

SÃO PAULO, besides its seaport, Santos, and its capital, the city of São Paulo, contains several important business centers, and, as it is supposed to possess the best agricultural resources of any province, I desired to make a visit there at the first convenient opportunity. My interest had been increased by hearing people speak of its capital as being the most American of any city in Brazil. The day fixed for starting was the 1st of May, 1884, and, as I was to be accompanied by my wife and daughter, we all thought it would be the more pleasant to go by steamship from Rio to Santos, and return to Rio by rail, which we did. We embarked at noon, on the steamship Crown Prince Frederick William, and I must say that I did not quite relish the idea of having to deliver up my passport to the steamship agents-so that a permit from the Brazilian authorities for my leaving port could be obtained— before I could have the privilege of buying tickets. But no foreigner can leave any Brazilian port without first obtaining a pass from the chief of police-a frivolous and burdensome usage. It was one o'clock P. M. when we began to steam out of the harbor and turn southward. The weather was perfectly clear and delightful. Twenty months had passed since we had first entered the harbor

of Rio, and it was with peculiar feelings that we now again, from a steamer's deck, surveyed the same extended and striking view of mountains and city that then opened before us. The sea continued smooth and the weather very pleasant all the afternoon and till bedtime. In a couple of hours after leaving Rio the mountain scenery along the coast becomes somewhat grand, and more beautiful than about Rio. The mountains, though generally covered with green forest, present a variety of forms, and it was very pleasant to sit under a canvas awning, or walk the deck, and watch the changing views. On retiring at night we had every expectation of arriving at Santos at the usual time, which would have been early the next morning. But a sharp rain- and thunder-storm rose in the night, during which the ship pitched and rolled a good deal, and the captain thought it prudent to stop, as there are several rather dangerous islands on the route between Rio and Santos. The result was that we did not reach Santos till four o'clock the next afternoon. Santos is situated out of sight from the sea, on a river not much wider than a canal, and it requires careful navigating for half an hour to get up to it; and when one does get to it there is nothing attractive to be seen. The banks of the river are muddy and filthy, though the tide comes up sometimes. There are a few wharves, to which large steamships were moored. The city itself has an antiquated appearance, and its narrow streets are compactly built up. The most striking object, on coming up to the city, is the custom-house, which, though small, is somewhat showy.

The hotel to which we went was old, situated in a block of buildings, and had only an up-stairs entrance, direct from the street. The rooms and furniture left

considerable to be desired, but the table was good. The dining-room being small, I could not but notice that the practice of gentlemen-probably the most of them foreigners-lighting their cigars and smoking for a while at the table seemed to have given the room a permanently stale smell of tobacco-smoke. There was a heavy shower during the night, but the next day was pleasant, and in the forenoon, in company with the wife of the American consul, a Brazilian lady, and her daughter, we made an excursion of a couple of miles or so in the horse-cars, to the sea-beach, which is very long, and affords an extensive driveway. A number of genteel cottages are occupied along the edge of the woods which border the beach. In going there from the city the way is over level land, and it appeared to me that there was enough well-situated ground for the site of a large city. I suppose it is all laid out into lots. Leaving Santos at half-past two P. M., on the railway, we arrived at São Paulo about six o'clock. For the first half-hour the road is over low, level land, covered with bushes. In the course of twenty minutes we cross a wide stream, near to which is the first station. The station-building is of brick, one story high, of light-yellow color, with a zinc roof, which projects six feet beyond the wall, and is supported by an iron frame. On one side of the road the forest is only a rifle-shot distant, while behind the station-building there is a slightly descending bushcovered surface for about a mile, and then hills, and mountains a thousand feet high, covered with forest. We were going through a valley, and getting nearer the mountains, and in ten minutes from this first station were on an ascending grade, in the vicinity of second-growth timber, rank weeds, and rich soil washed from hills near by. At ten minutes past three we arrived at the foot of