of velvet are also much in favor. One broad row is placed quite | at the edge of the skirt, and another, somewhat narrower, at a little distance apart. A sort of trimming, consisting of cut-out velvet, or, as it may be called, velvet guipure, has recently been introduced, and is extremely effective for ornamenting silk dresses; but it is suitable only for silks of a very rich quality. We may mention that Fashion has amply responded to the appeal made in behalf of the distressed Coventry weavers -ribbons being now profusely employed in trimming dresses. Lace, in the form either of tunics or flounces, will this winter be much employed in evening dresses. In the trimming of ball-dresses flowers will be combined with lace of all kinds; for instance, Chantilly, Alençon, Honiton, blonde, dentelle-d'or and dentelle-d'argent. A good many dresses have capes or pelerines. In one of plain green silk, the collar, rounded and bordered with a green frill, is continued in a graceful lapel, cut at the edge, and bordered with the same frill and a row of Valenciennes. In another, striped straw and maroon, the collar is square, and edged with a cherry ribbon. The sleeves are puffed, have a jockey, bordered with the same and a loose wristban!. The body is fastened in front by cherry buttons, and the waistband, also cherry, is fastened by a chased steel buckle. With this dress a very distinguished lady lately wore a new kind of collar. It is straight behind, with ends hanging down in front, and is accompanied by a small black silk cravat, with colored or lace ends. The cuffs, of course, match the collar. More dressy sleeves are made of thin muslin with Valenciennes bands, having on the top a large tab in the form of a lozenge, composed of insertions of Valenciennes, and bordered by a narrow guipure. The collar is formed of an insertion, bordered on each side with a narrow Valenciennes. Another, of muslin, has plaits all round, crossed at intervals by ruches, with black velvet in the middle. At the wristband a Valenciennes and a narrow velvet. The Garibaldi skirt or jacket is very much worn by ladies, and can be made in colored flannel, French merino, or silk. It has a pretty appearance, is very comfortable, and suited for morning wear, or for the breakfast-room, and is generally worn with a small white collar and cuffs. It is also suitable for little girls, worn either high or low-bigh with long sleeves, making an exceedingly pretty walking-dress; the jacket, in flannel of some bright color (scarlet, Magenta or blue); and the skirt in drab, with a trimming to match the jacket of about three inches in width, and the same distance from the bottom, with a bow and ends on the left side. DESCRIPTION OF COLORED PLATE. FIG. 1. PROMENADING COSTUME. · The bonnet is composed of white uncut velvet, having a green velvet curtain and green velvet leaves in the bandeau. Two white feathers are fastened in the leaves, and are carried outside the bonnet, where the tips are secured to keep them in their place. The edge of the bonnet is bound with a narrow piece of green velvet, and the strings are of broad white sarsnet ribbon. The dress is made of plain green glacé silk with revers, and is trimmed with silk of a lighter shade than the dress. The body and skirt are cut in one piece, the dress buttoning all the way down the front with buttons of the same color. The body is open in front, the revers and collar being composed of the light silk. The skirt is ornamented on each side with three rosettes of light silk, fastened on each of the seams. Between each breadth a piece of silk is inserted, cut somewhat to a point and plaited at the top, each of these pointed pieces being finished off by a rosette. The length of these pieces of silk is about twenty-four inches. The sleeves are made with a seam at the elbow, and have a piece of silk let in at the seam, the same as the skirt. They are trimmed with a narrow plaited silk, whilst the bottom of the skirt is ornamented with a wider one. The width of the narrow plaiting is one inch, that of the wider one, three and a half inches. Fig. 2. AT HOME DRESS-Robe of royal purple silk, six flounces on the skirt, put on so as to form a toblier (apron) The bottom flounce is three times the depth of any of the others, and is headed by a small flounce surmounted by a pinked ruche. A space is then allowed, above which are placed two small flounces headed by the ruche; two other flounces are put on in the same manner at the top of the skirt, while a pinked ruche extends on both sides of the flounces up the whole length of the dress. The corsage is high and is trimmed to correspond with the skirt, the upper flounce forming a square pelerine extending over the shoulders. The sleeves are composed of one large puff and two flounces, headed by a ruche Close undersleeves trimmed with a frill; plain collar. The hair is confined by a Grecian net, trimmed with bows of green ribbon. DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS. No. 1. Dress of purple silk. A narrow flounce with a heading extends around the back of the skirt and forms a tablier trimming in front, thereby producing the effect of a tunic. A second flounce also extends up both sides of the tablier. The lower part of the skirt in front is ornamented with three small flounces put on in the form of a semicircle. The corsage is high and round, buttoning up to the throat; on both sides of the buttons is a narrow ruffle of purple silk. The sleeve consists of a cap ornamented with ruffles, with headings, beneath which is a large puff confined midway below the elbow by a band trimmed with a headed flounce. No. 2. Paletot of drab cloth, fitting almcst tightly to the figure, and closed all the way up the front. Flowing sleeves trimmed around with rich fur, which also encircles the whole paletot, also extending up the front and around the neck. No. 3. Child's dress of two shades of merino or cashmere. The darker shade is at the bottom of the dress, and is separated from the lighter by two rows of black braid, above and below which is a delicate vine of the same material. The waist is full, and is confined by a ceinture, with bows and ends of the darker shade, trimmed to match the skirt. Around the neck is a graceful yoke, open on either shoulder, but confined with three velvet buttons. The yoke is also soutached. The sleeves are full and terminate in a revers pointed and slashed on the outside of the arm, but the ends confined by velvet buttons. Nos. 4, 5, 6 and 7, we present to our readers as patterns for an entire Zouave suit for little boys, consisting of jacket, vest, pantaloons and gaiters. The pantaloons and vest are usually made of red flannel and the jacket and gaiters of blue. Of course, however, if preferred, the whole suit may be made of one color. Those of our illustrations are trimmed with black braid, put on in Grecian style, that is to say in blocks. No. 8 is a bow suitable for slippers or other purposes. The material is velvet ribbon with notched edges, and a gilt or steel buckle for the centre. Our illustration indicates the manner in which it should be made up, and renders explanation superfluous. The foundation should be of stiff milliner's net. No. 9. This bow is composed of a rich ribbon with a heavy beaded edge. It is plaited in the centre and has the form of a rose. Outside of this the ribbon is disposed in loops. No. 10. Undersleeve of full white net. It terminates in a revers, which is composed of puffings of tulle separated by strips of insertion. A graceful bow is placed on the outside of the sleeve. Materials required to make one basket: A wicker basket, some bright-colored satin, white silk fringe one inch wide, a silk fringe the same color as the satin two inches wide, fine white muslin, embroidery cotton perfectionné No. 20. Three illustrations have been done for this work basket, which we think will enable our readers to make it without any difficulty. The quantity of satin and fringe required of course depends on the size of the basket to be covered, but as most housewives have pieces by them which would answer for this purpose, it is not necessary to enter into such minute details. Our large illustration,shows a fully trimmed work-basket, about halt the size of our model, which is lined with sky-blue satin. This satin is doubled in such a manner that the inner piece | out being stretched, is in our model about a yard long, and six forms six little pockets, which can be drawn out, as seen in our inches broad, and must hang over the edge of the basket at second illustration, so forming convenient receptacles for all least one inch. The piece of satin forming the pockets is the a lady's needlework apparatus. These little pockets are covered same length, and five inches broad; it has a narrow hem round with small embroidered lappets, which give the basket a very the top, and is sewn on to the underneath piece of satin at tasty finish. When these pockets are laid back, as seen in our regular distances, so forming six pockets. The wrong side of the colored fringe, then a row of white. The trimming may be, difficulty in obtaining a suitable pattern. Sprigged net, trimfastened to the basket by an invisible stitch between the pockets. The cushion at the bottom of the basket should be made of a round piece of cardboard, which should be wadded on the top, and covered with satin; the satin should be cut round rather larger than the cardboard, then drawn tightly over the wadding, and fastened off on the under side of the cardboard. The satin should be covered with a small round of embroidered muslin, and this piece of cardboard secured to the bottom of the basket. The little revers which ornament the pockets are about five inches long on the straight side, and about two inches broad in the centre. They are edged round with small holes in open embroidery, the inner side of the holes being sewn over, and the outer edges worked in buttonhole stitch. The piece of work that covers the bottom of the basket should be worked in open embroidery, the pattern consisting of a circle of open holes with a small sprig in the centre, but for this purpose med with narrow lace, would be a pretty substitute for the embroidered muslin. ALGERIAN KNITTING. PAGE 85. This is a new and extremely pretty stitch, suitable for knitting wool, and adapted especially for carriage blankets, and other warm articles for winter wear. Any number of stitches may be cast on the needle; and the entire pattern consists of two rows only, so that it has the 春 merit of being peculiarly simple. Having cast on the stitches, do one purled row; then begin the pattern. Knit the first stitch +then, having the wool at the back, pass it round the right-hand needle, bringing it again to the back, and insert the needle in the back of the next stitch, taking it off without knitting. Repeat this to the last stitch, which you knit plainly. It will be perceived that the first and last stitches are all that are knitted; the others are slipped off, with the thread carried round the needle every time. 2d row knit the first stitch; and then each of the others, together with the accompanying thread which crosses it, until you come to the last stitch, before which there is a thread you simply drop, and knit the stitcb. INITIALS. PAGE 92. There is no sort of embroidery which requires such extreme delicacy of touch as the initial letters which are now so fashionable, being enriched with ornaments of a fine and minute character, that cannot possibly be executed with any advantage excepting by those ladies who are perfect mistresses in the use of their needles. We recommend that the corner of the cambric should be dipped in thin gum water before commencing, and that the needle and the cotton should be of the finest and the best quality that can be procured. Beyond this all must rest on the skill of the worker. SUSPENDERS IN CROCHET. PAGE 92. To be worked with good knitting cotton, No. 6 or 8, and a suitable hook. Make a chain of 200 stitches, and work on it one row in single crochet, inserting the hook, always, under both sides of the chain. 2nd row. The same. The to stitch has the thread brought twice round the needle before inserting the hook in the stitch on which the new one is to be worked. It then requires a treble or thrice repeated movement to take off the stitches from the needle: whence the name. twisted crochet thread. TURKISH CUSHION, IN PRINCESS STITCH. PAGE 96. MATERIALS-8 thread (double) zephyr, of two contrasting colors, and a coarse hook. Also a small quantity of two shades of any colors that will harmonize with them for the embroidery, and a little black double zephyr. The cushion consists of sixteen pieces; eight of each color, placed alternately. They are united by a black stripe or line. As seen in the engraving, the cushion is made up with a flat circular piece at the back, stiffened with cardboard. But though this answers well for the feet, it is not so comfortable for the back of a chair as a perfectly soft cushion, alike on both sides, drawn in at the centre with a button, and puffed out at the sides--a brioche, as it is usually called. Each strip is worked separately. Make a chain of 20 stitches, work on it for about 40 rows (2, to the left, and the same num 3rd. Work the same to within 40 stitches of the end, and turn ber to the right), after which gradually decrease by a single stitch back for the 4th. Worked to the end. first on one side, then on the other, till you come to only one. Decrease by drawing the thread through one more loop than 5th. 6 sc; 5 ch, miss 5, 4 sc, 5 ch, miss 5, 4 sc, 5 ch, miss 5, usual. The diminishing is very gradual at first; every eighth It will considerably strengthen them to work a single row all round in single crochet; and to do the buttonholes with stout sewing thread, as if they had been cut. PIQUE OR MARSEILLES CROCHET. PAGE 93. This stitch, which is an entire novelty, derives its name from . the resemblance it bears to the material so called. It is very simple and effective; and better adapted to cotton than to wool work. The foundation is ribbed crochet; the pattern being produced by treble crochet stitches worked over the others. In the design given, 69 chains are required for every pattern; and you begin by doing four rows of plain ribbing.. [Our readers will scarcely require to be reminded that ribbed crochet is done by working on the back line of the chain instead of the front.] 5th row. 15 plain stitches; the 16th a tc stitch, worked on the 2nd row below the upper line, inserting the hook in the front of the chain and working the entire stitch loose from the work; 9 sc; 10 tc worked as before, with a sc stitched between every two; 9 sc, as before + repeat between the crosses to the end of the row, and work back in ribbed stitch. In the following row you do 1 tc stitch on each side of the 1 tc, on the edge of the rib next above that; and a sc stitch on the tc; you thus begin to increase the diamond of which the tc stitch formed the point; and you also decrease the one of which the 10 stitches formed the extreme width, by working 9 only (on the 9 sc stitches between them). The reverse row is, as before, plain ribbing. The next row continues the same process; 3 tc stitches are worked in the first place, one over the single one-one on each side of it, and sc on the 2 tc of the former row, decreasing the next diamond by doing eight over nine. Continue thus until you bring the last to a point, when continue increasing the other until you have 12 tc stitches across it. Then decrease to 11; and when you have ten only begin to form a new diamond over the point of the hal one. Of course, any variety of lozenge or diamond may be used. row or so-afterwards more frequently. Embroider the little design on each piece, in common crossstitch, before joining them together. To join them, hold the edges of two pieces, wrong side out, and crochet with black wool. If the cushion is to be alike on both sides, the sections need not be quite so long; 30 rows, instead of 40, will do. WINTER STYLES FOR BONNETS, CLOAKS AND WE have already mentioned the materials and shapes of mantles that are likely to be preferred this winter; but as within the last week we have seen others, perhaps a short description of them will not be unacceptable. We noticed a rich paletot of velvet trimmed with fur. Another, also of velvet, with a bertha of guipure. This style was to be worn closely fitting to the figure or otherwise, according to the age and taste of the wearer. Another was of brown fancy cloth bordered with black silk revers, quilted. But the great novelty of the season, the event of the day, to speak in the parlance of political sensationists, is the "Algerien." "What is the Algerien ?" you inquire. Ladies, it is neither a mantle nor a pelisse, nor a burnous, nor-the fact is it is easier to tell you what it is not than what it is. The burnous, however, is the style of mantle which it most resembles. Like it, the " Algerien" is all in one piece, but instead of forming a hood behind, it falls over the shoulders and back in plaits, confined by a cord and tassel. This cloak appears to the greatest advantage in velvet, but in cloth it is none the less graceful and comfortable. Cloaks are, as we intimated they would be, full and long. Among the models as yet received from Paris, many are composed of black velvet, and others of black and colored cloth. We have seen one of black velvet trimmed with jet and lace. Another is a pelisse of black velvet. On the lower part of the skirt, and up each side of the front, there is a band of black velvet ornamented with passementerie and piped with violet; the sleeves are slit up to the elbow on the outside of the arm, and edged with bands similar to those on the other parts of the pelisse. A cloak of brown cloth is trimmed with bands of plush. The following may be mentioned as among the most approved of those exhibited within the last few days in the salons of the fashionable establishments of New York. The Louise" pardessus, composed of black velvet, has a pelerine of guipure lace. The front, from top to bottom, is ornamented with rich embroidery and the sleeves, which are shaped to the elbow, have embroidered revers. A cloak, named the "Henriette," : in fancy cloth, is made with three plaits at the back, each fixed by a large button. The sleeves are very long, slashed and flowing, and have three plaits at the shoulder fixed by buttons. A pardessus which has received the name of "Othello" is very long, and may be made either of cloth or velvet. It is trimmed up the whole length of the front with passementerie. This pardessus has a small square collar. The sleeves which are shaped to the elbow have revers, and like the collar are trimmed with passementerie. The "Célimene" is a cloak of black velvet, with a very large cape and long wide sleeves. The pelerine is trimmed with a rich fringe, and in each of the corners in front there is a trimming of passementerie in the form of a palm leaf. The same trimming ornaments the edge of the sleeves. We may mention that burnous with square hoods at present enjoy a considerable share of favor. Another, mantle of black velvet with deep fall of guipure over the shoulders in the form of simulated sleeves (manches simulées). The collar has a double point, from between which is suspended a tassel. The collar, as well as the edge of the cloak, is finished with gold-color trimming. A mantle composed of thick corded silk was trimmed with Maltese lace and jet. It was cut circular, and ornamented all round at the extreme edge with a very narrow Maltese lace headed with jet. The mantle was put into a shoulder-piece, and the seams were all covered with lace and velvet. A small collar, also trimmed with lace and velvet, finished off the neck, whilst the front was fastened by means of a row of large silk buttons and buttonholes. At the same time we noticed a mantle made in the same shape and material, but trimmed with narrow ermine instead of lace. This was very elegant, and more suited to the very cold weather than the former. Shawls trimmed with fur and other warm-looking materials will still continue to be very much worn. They are very fashionable and pretty when made in rep, and trimmed with all kinds of fur, velvet and silk, braided. | for evening and walking costumes. One suitable for promenade costume was composed of a dark silk, the skirt being gored and trimmed round the bottom with one flounce nine inches deep, and edged at the top with a broad ruche of black silk. The body was made quite plain, and fastened up the front by means of a row of silk buttons. The sleeve fitted tightly to the arm, and was made with three puffs at the top. With this dress was worn a paletot composed of black corded silk, made with a lace pelerine. The bonnet was of drab terry velvet, trimmed on the outside with a large spray of drab velvet flowers placed near the centre of the front. The inside was finished by a tulle cap, with a terry velvet bow across the top. Another very pretty morning or walking costume was composed of a light gray tweed. The skirt was made very full and long behind, and was trimmed down the front with narrow velvet put on to form diamonds. The width of the trimming at the top of the skirt measured five inches, and graduated to the bottom until it was twelve inches in width. On each side of the trimming were placed two small pockets, trimmed to correspond with the front. The body was made with the fronts open and turned back, whilst the sleeves were very wide, and trimmed in the same manner as the skirt. A loose paletot of the same material, bound at the edges with black velvet and trimmed with velvet buttons, was worn with this dress. The bonnet was composed of bright blue velvet, the front being made transparent, and trimmed with flowers of the same color. The inside was ornamented with a full bandeau of blue flowers, and broad blue strings completed this very simple dress. At a fashionable dressmaker's we noticed, amongst many other things, a few pretty dresses which were to form part of a wedding trousseau for a young lady. A dinner dress was made of pale green silk, with puffings of tulle on the skirt put on in points, with a rosette of green silk placed at each point. The body was low, and was worn with a Maltese lace pelerine made to cross in front, and fastened under a sash of green silk. The sleeve was very wide, and composed of Maltese lace at the bottom, and with six narrow puffings at the top. The head-dress was composed of a divided wreath of apple-blossom made very high in the front, and with two long ends at the back, falling on each side of a small ornamental comb. A very pretty mantle made in velvet attracted our attention. It was made to fit the figure closely; the skirt was extremely long, and was open up each side. This space was laced across with a very narrow jet trimming, and a piece of the same was placed round the opening. The sleeves were very wide and opened up the back, and trimmed to match the skirt. The neck was finished with a small collar cut in points, and trimmed to correspond with the other portions of the mantle. This gar-ted muslin, with three narrow flounces at the bottom, and a ruche ment was worn over a dress of bright blue silk, the skirt of which was gored and very long behind, and trimmed at the bottom with a broad piece of velvet edged on both sides with a jet trimming. Another mantle of a very useful character and suitable for walking or travelling, was composed of a pretty gray cloth, cut very large and somewhat circular, and plaited into the neck with three large double box plaits. It was trimmed at the edge with five rows of silk braid half an inch wide; and on each plait was placed a double row of the same braid, finished at the end with a tassel. The collar was pointed at each end, and was trimmed with braid and tassels at each point; the fronts were fastened in the usual manner by buttons and buttonholes. Another dress for evening wear was made of white Indian spot of violet silk between each flounce. The body was made demi-low and open down the front. It was trimmed all round with a ruche, and under it was worn a lace chemisette fastened together with a brooch. The sleeve only reached the elbow, and was made open and trimmed with a ruche. A broad sash of violet silk, pinked at the edges, completed this very simple yet pretty dress. The head-dress that was to be worn with it was composed of violet silk ruches mounted on a wire, and pointed in front with a double ruche across the back, and a small white feather fastened in on the left side. Included in the same trousseau was a very elegant ball-dress, composed of black tulle spotted with gold. It was made with two skirts; the upper one looped on the left side with a bunch of gold wheat-ears and smali black marabout feathers. The body was low and worn with a berthe of wide blonde, fastened in front with a trimming to correspond with that on the skirt. This dress was worn over a black silk slip. The head-dress was composed of gold wheat-ears mounted so as to form a high coronet in front, whilst black feathers were arranged on both sides. Another ball-dress was made of three pretty shades of pink tarletane, formed with three skirts pinked round the edges, the Another mantle, extremely stylish, was composed of black rep, trimmed with black guipure and silk ruches; it was cut to form a half-shawl, with a guipure lace cape over the shoulders. The bottom part was trimmed with a wide and narrow ruche of silk; the widest measuring two and a half, and the narrow one, one and a half inches in width. The dress that was to be worn with this elegant mantle was composed of violet poplin of a rich shade, the skirt being made very full and without trimming. The bonnet for this costume was of black vel-deepest color being selected for the under one. Each skirt was vet, made quite plain, with a small bunch of black feathers tipped with violet ornamenting the outside. In the bandeau was a smaller feather, to correspond with those on the outside. A paletot composed of Riga cloth was made to fit the figure, and trimmed over the shoulders with a pelerine of the same material, edged with a gimp trimming. The sleeves of this paletot were made very wide and lined with colored silk quilted, so that the lining showed on the right side. It was made very long, reaching within a quarter of a yard the bottom of the dress. We have also seen something rather stylish in dresses both looped across the front, from right to left, with bunches of the lilies of the valley. The body was low and made of the deepest color, with a puffed berthe of the lightest shade, and was trimmed on the shoulders and in the front with lilies to correspond with the skirt. The wreath for this dress consisted of very pale blush roses and lilies of the valley. Our readers, many of whom may be at a loss to know what kind of bonnet to order at their milliner's, may find among the following one that they may like. They are all of the newest fashion, and are perfectly suitable for this se:so of it year. One was composed of white spotte! velvet, with a curtain of |
