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The preceding engraving represents a Brazilian sugar-planter. He is well, clothed and armed, and his horse is superbly caparisoned; the mountings are silver; and such a saddle as is here represented, when made of morocco leather and green velvet, silvermounted, sometimes costs one hundred guineas. He travels, with his wife, in rude state, the lady being borne by negroes in an embroidered hammock, and attended by a female on foot.

It may be mentioned, that jewels and gems are worn profusely in Brazil; yet, although it is the land of the diamond, the splendid beetles of the country are worn as brooches. The coronation attire is magnificent. The crown, except the green velvet cap and the band of gold, seems one mass of diamonds; the ruff is of Spanish lace; and the green velvet robe, embroidered with gold, has, in place of the ermine in other regal attire, a dress cape of the bright yellow feathers of the toucan, which was part of the dress of the ancient caciques of the country. The imperial under-dress is of white satin, embroidered with gold, high military boots, gold spurs, and a diamond-hilted sword. At court the nobility wear the costumes of their ancestors centuries since; and in the national museum are preserved the superb feather coronets, dresses, and ornaments of the aboriginal chiefs.*

AUSTRALASIAN COSTUMES.

The costume of the English settlers in the Australian continent and islands is, as may be supposed, purely European, the London fashions being regularly transmitted thither. The only peculiarity of costume is among the native tribes, who, placed at a low condition in savage life, are dressed in the most primitive and barbarous style.

The clothing of the men of certain tribes consists of a skin cloak worn like a robe over the shoulders, and fastened round the neck, the fur part being turned inside in wet weather. Around the waist is worn a belt, not unlike an officer's sash, made of opossum fur; and attached to it are flaps of opossum-skin cut in stripes, and worn before and behind; and a skin purse and tobacco-pouch are carried in this belt. The jetblack hair is worn long, and well greased; but some tribes tie it to the top of the head with bunches of reeds and cockatoo feathers; and they wear the beard. The skin is tattooed in stripes, more especially among the natives of the south, which renders them terrific in

appearance.

The women also wear opossum skin-cloaks; and they have one or two nets, in which they carry at their back an infant child, and burdens generally. Their hair is shorter and more curly than that of the men, and is occasionally ornamented with kangaroo-teeth, affixed to their locks by wax, so as to dangle all round their heads. Both sexes are very fond of ornament, for which purpose they thickly coat their skin with fishoil, and on high occasions smear their faces with red and white earth; on their bodies are traced the forms of birds and beasts, and the jaw-bones of fish and the tails of dogs are favourite decorations; and through the nose is often worn a feather or piece of bone. They carry spears, clubs, and other weapons, in great variety.

New Zealanders.-The natives of New Zealand, considered by Dr Laing to be of Asiatic origin, are physically and intellectually superior to the New Hollanders, although they are yet essentially a savage people. Their personal appearance is very fine; their mean complexion is that of a European gipsy, but their faces are much disfigured by tattooing. Their chiefs have fine athletic forms; and their mat cloak tied over the right shoulder, and descending to the ankles, brings to the mind of a classical beholder the Roman toga; whilst their towering stature and perfect symmetry give even more than Roman dignity to the illusion. The

*Stowart's Visit to the South-Scas.

young women, too, are graceful, and have expre eyes and a profusion of long silky hair.

No two persons are tattooed exactly alike; it is g rally commenced on the lips, then on the cheeks, progress is made alike in embellishment and age. T tooing is no sign of rank, for slaves get marked a much as chiefs; but every tribe has distinctive insig It is considered a mark of beauty; and some of the young natives have their bodies marked over wi small dots, resembling the blue spots in a Guerasy frock. The most valued article of dress is the p sort of cloak formed of the skins of dogs, the furs ca lengthwise, and sewed alternately white, brown, d black, to a strong matting. These garments are s to the principal chiefs as presents. The common t mat is made of flax, scraped with the mussel-al Another mat is made of silken flax, interwoven blue, red, and green baize, purchased of the Europes it is worked with sampler-like borders of elegant dap This is a handsome summer dress; but for wand and comfort, the English blanket is in universi repute.

The mats are worn over the shoulders, tied the breast; and around the waist is a similar mat, a tened with a belt. Spear-grass and sedgy cloals worn in wet weather. The women affect less handen apparel than the men, but they are fond of ortam Red ochre and shark-oil are the cosmetics used fro head to foot. Both sexes wear in the ears para skins, bones, cloth beads, teeth of friends, en dogs, pigs, &c., and are generally garnished with ing-wax: armlets, ringlets, necklets, and anklets, fancy wood combs are worn, and nose ornamen the men. The hair on gala-days is worn in knot, with sea-fowl flowers; and various painte

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CHAMBERS'S

INFORMATION FOR THE PEOPLE.

CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS, EDITORS OF CHAMBERS'S
EDINBURGH JOURNAL, EDUCATIONAL COURSE, &c.

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BRITISH AND ROMAN PERIODS.

THE original inhabitants of the British isles were of Celtic descent, and are believed to have brought with them the Thracian custom of tattooing their bodies, by squeezing certain coloured juices into figures made with the points of needles. Hence they must have resembled in appearance the tattooed islanders of the South Seas; and although personal distinction may have been the leading object of this species of ornament, it appears to have been generally adopted by barbarous half-clad tribes. Among the Southern or Belgic Britons, at the time when Julius Cæsar landed in the country (55 B.C.), the arts connected with clothing had made some advance; but in the more northern parts, the practice of living half naked, with painted and tattooed bodies, was common, and remained till a much later period than in the south.

Pict.

PRICE 14d.

shoulders with brooches; short drawers, met by hose, over which were worn bands of cloth, linen, or leather, in diagonal crossings. Leather sandals were worn by the early Anglo-Saxons; but afterwards the shoe became common: it was very simple, and well contrived for comfort, being opened down the instep, and there, by a thong passed through holes on each side of the slit, drawn tight round the feet like a purse. A felt or woollen cap, called hat (hence our modern word hat), was worn by the higher class of Anglo-Saxons ; but it is generally believed that the serfs or lower orders were without any other covering for the head than what nature had given them.

Although Sir Walter Scott, with the natural modesty of genius, disclaims pretension to complete accuracy in the costume of the characters in his historical romances,

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Such fanciful decorations des
are supposed to have given
name to the nation of Picts,
from the Latin word picti
(painted); but other autho-
rities refer the term to
different origins.

The Roman dress does not appear to have been adopted until towards the close of the first century, when the better classes of Southern and Eastern Britain exchanged the bracca for the Roman tunic, reachng to the knee, and the toga, or mantle.

In the dress of the women there was but little change. They appear in two tunics, the one reaching to the nkles, and the other has short sleeves, and reaches bout half-way down the thigh; or they resemble a and gown, or bed-gown and petticoat, though the atter, distinct from a body and sleeves, is not conidered to be ancient. This tunic was called in British en, and hence our word gown; of which we still see pecimens of short dimensions worn by women of the umble classes in England, Scotland, and Wales.

ANGLO-SAXON AND DANISH PERIODS.

Whatever traces of costume may have been left in Britain by the Romans, they disappeared soon after the arrival of the Saxons in 449, who introduced fashions of apparel from northern Germany, which were copied by the Romanised British, and continued with no mateial change for several centuries.

The common dress of the males of the eighth cenry consisted, as we find, of linen shirts; tunics, or kind of surcoat; cloaks fastened on the breast or

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the following portrait of Gurth, the Saxon swineherd, in "Ivanhoe," is nearly correct: "His gargido lure ment was of the simplest form imaginable, being a close jacket with sleeves, Add composed of the tanned skin of some animal, in which the hair had been on originally left, but which had been worn off in so any many places that it would have been difficult to disredbo tinguish from the patches that remained to what creature the fur had belonged. This primeval vestment reached from the throat to the knee, and served at once all the purposes of bodyclothing. There was no wider opening at the collar than was necessary to admit the passage of the head, from which it may be inferred that it was put on by slipping it over the head and shoulders in the manner of a modern shirt or ancient hauberk. Sandals, bound with thongs made of boar's hide, protected the feet; and a sort of roll of thin leather was bound artificially round the legs, and, ascending above the calf, left the knees bare, like those of a Scotch Highlander. make the jacket sit more closely to the body, it was gathered at the middle by a broad leathern belt, secured by a brass buckle, to one side of which was attached a sort of scrip, and to the other a ram's horn, accoutred with a mouth-piece for the purpose of blowing. In the same belt was stuck one of those long, broad, sharp-pointed, and two-edged knives which were fabricated in the neighbourhood, and bore even at this early period the name of a Sheffield whittle. The man had no covering upon his head, which was only de

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Gurth.-Saxon.

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fended by his own thick hair matted and twisted together. One part of his dress only remains, but it is too remarkable to be suppressed: it was a brass ring! resembling a dog's collar, but without any opening, and acidered fast round his neck; so loose as to form no impediment to his breathing, yet so tight as to be incapable of being removed, excepting by the use of the On this singular gorget was engraved, in Saxon characters-Gurth, the son of Beowulf, is the born thrail of Cedric of Rotherwood.""

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The Anglo-Saxon females wore under-tunics, with sleeves; another inner garment, the linen kirtle; and over these the long full gown, with loose sleeves. The head-dress is a hood or veil, which, falling down before, was wrapped round the neck and breast; and this was the only head-covering of the women when abroad. The hair was carefully dressed, and golden head-bands, half-circles, neck-bands, and bracelets, were worn; with ear-rings, necklaces, crosses, and jewelled ornaments too numerous to describe. The hose and shoes resembled those worn by the men. The long sleeves of the gown or the mantle, drawn over the hands, served as gloves, which were not worn before the eleventh century. All classes used on their cheeks a red cosmetic, so that the art of painting the face is not the creature of refinement. The general colours of the dresses were red, blue, and green, sometimes embroidered in patterns; and gold tissue and cloth of gold were worn by princesses and nuns; and the latter embroidered robes, sandals, tunics, vests, cloaks, and veils of enormous cost-for pearls and precious jewels were interwrought with the materials, and sometimes three years were spent in working one garment; and their dresses were often lined with sable, beaver, and fox furs, or the skins of lambs or cats.

the Low Countries, and part of Germany, had an ex ̧.”early origin.

In the reign of Rufus many costly charg made in dress: the tunics were lengthened, and under garments even trailed upon the ground. sleeves were also drawn over the whole hand, alth gloves were worn, at least by the higher classes. cloth mantles were lined with rich furs; and one with black sables and white spots cost £100. Ex:. vagantly peaked-toed boots and shoes were wurn; . a court coxcomb, who caused the points of his shas curl like a ram's horn, received the name of De bus, or with the horns. The hair, which had shorn from the back of the head as well as the face the Norman-French, was now again worn long:the courtiers in Stephen's reign even wore art hair, so that wigs may date from the twelfte i tury. The long beard also reappeared in the regi Henry I.

The monumental effigies of Henry II. and his Eleanor, and Richard I. and his queen Berengar. the abbey of Fontevraud, Normandy, are unde examples of the regal costume of the latter halftwelfth century, inasmuch as they represent the reigns sculptured in their habits, as if they still a'. state. The robes of the two kings are two tumes upper called a dalmatica), with rich waist-belta, ↑ over them mantles superbly embroidered; tis Henry being fastened by a fibula or brooch en 2 right shoulder, and that of Richard fastened upta breast. The gloves are jewelled on the back hand, and the boots have spurs without rows: b monarchs wear their crowns, although that of ti is much mutilated. These royal habits represent i the costume of the nobles at the same period. F introduced the fashion of indenting the borders dresses, and the short cloak of Anjou, whence in m called Court Manteau (curt, or short-mantles mantle of Richard is also described as nearly ev with solid silver half-moons and orbs.

In the course of the thirteenth century, the gold, embroidered and fringed, and French vr were much used; and a rich stuff manufactured Cyclades was made into a dalmatica or supera called Cyclas, which was worn by both sexes furs of ermines, martens, squirrels, the vair, minevair or minever, were added to the list of fun: winter garments.

The Danes originally wore the dresses of sailors, the general colour of which was black; but when enriched by piracy, they soon became wearers of scarlet, purple, and fine linen, and in England outshone the Saxons; they were effeminately gay in their dress, and the length and beauty of their hair. The Anglo-Danish kings appear principally to have worn a red habit, embroi-tuousness of apparel increased: rich silks woven " dered with gold, and a purple robe; and their mantles were richly embroidered with gold and pearls. Upon a manuscript of the reign of Canute, he is, however, represented in a Saxon dress, the mantle being richly ornamented with cords or ribbons, and tassels; and he wears shoes and stockings with embroidered tops. His body, when discovered in Winchester Cathedral in the year 1766, was decorated with gold and silver bands, and a richly jewelled ring; bracelets were worn by all. persons of rank, and invariably buried with them. Canute's queen wore the tunic, mantle, and long veil. The materials of the Danish dresses were cloths, silks, or velvets, procured either from Spain or the Mediterranean, by plundering the Moors.

From the Danish Invasion to the Norman Conquest there were few changes in costume, if we except the imitation of Norman-French fashions in the reign of the Confessor, by shortening the tunics, clipping the hair, and shaving the beard, but leaving the upper lip unshorn. Tattooing was practised even to this time, although it had been forbidden by a law passed in the eighth century.

ELEVENTH TILL FOURTEENTH CENTURY.

The general male dress consisted of the cyclas mentioned; and the tunic open as high as the was show the drawers; with chaussées or stockings. principal novelty is the super-totus, or over-ali, like the mantle or cloak, and consisting of a s large-sleeved shirt, with a capuchon. Long-toed and boots were resumed, with embroidery and en The caps or bonnets, and hats, now resemble modern beaver.

The female costume differed in fashion and ta” rather than in form, from those of the twelfth cen The veils were of gold tissue or superbly embras. silk, and over them was worn a diadem, eircles garland, or a cap-like coronet, by persons of rank, 1 sometimes a round hat. The head-dresses were *** numerous: the wimple covered the head and shoul and was fastened under the chin; and the had " worn in a net or caul of gold thread, which contr The Norman Conquest introduced a greater degree in fashion for the next two centuries. A very ugly ... of taste and splendour into British costume; but the of wimple, called the gorget, appeared in the thirte dress of the common order of people remained long of century; it was a neck-covering, poked up by 1” a comparatively rude fashion, partly from the effect of above the ears. The long robe was also worn fra caste and sumptuary laws, which prevented any decided on the ground; the cloth stockings were embra change. As time advanced, the materials of dress im- with gold; and trinkets of gold, as buckles, rings, proved, but the cut was little different, and, till this rings, and chaplets, and jewels, were much worn; day, we have a sample of the Anglo-Saxon tunic in the sometimes flowers, fresh from the garden or field, smock-frock, a species of overall linen shirt, very gene-entwined round the head as a relief to artificial de ray worn by the peasantry of England. The blouse, ration. In this century, too, we first meet with a linen shirt of blue instead of white, which is now surcol, which Strutt calls a corset, boddice, or sam universally worn by workmen in France, Switzerland, worn over the rest of the dress, which enlarged in v

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kirt, and spread into a train: it was made high in the neck, and had long tight sleeves.

The dress of the working-classes may be supposed to have been improved about this period by the introduction of the worsted manufacture: it is stated to have been brought to the country by a colony of Flemngs, who, in the reign of Henry II. settled at Worsted, village in Norfolk, and hence the name of the fabric.* We now come to the fourteenth century, in which Edward III. and his queen Philippa led the fashion in apparel. As seen from the effigy on his tomb, the ostume of Edward is characterised by its dignified implicity. The dalmatica is low in the neck, falls in straight folds to the feet, and is open in front early half its height, being embroidered at the edges of the aperture; the sleeves of the under tunic have it each wrist a row of buttons, a fashion of the reign of Edward III.; the mantle, embroidered at the dges, is worn over the shoulders, and confined by a ewelled band across the breast; the shoes or busins are also embroidered, and the hair and beard are atriarchal; the crown has been removed or lost. The effigy of Queen Philippa, also at Westminster, is qually distinguished by its simplicity; the skirt is long and full, the boddice closely fitting, the waist-belt jewilled, and the mantle ornamented on the shoulders, and onfined by a diagonal band across the breast; and pon the head is a low crown, jewelled, and from it lepends a kind of draped ornament half way down the theek. The costume of the nobles in this reign was, however, far less simple than that of the sovereign. In place of the long robe and tunic was worn a close-fitting body-garment (jupon) superbly embroidered, reaching to the middle of the thigh, and confined across the hips by a splendid belt; from the sleeves of this garment bung long slips of cloth, called tirippes (tippets), and over the whole was occasionally worn a long mantle fastened by buttons upon the right shoulder. This dress was, however, the extreme of foppery. The caps were of various shapes, and among them we find the knight's hapeau, nearly in the form now used in heraldry. Beaver hats were also worn; but the greatest novelty was a single feather in the front of the cap. The golden thaplets, by the addition of leaves, now assumed the form of coronets. The gay tournaments of this period nd to the introduction of many costly foreign fashions; so that, in 1363, expensive dress, beyond the income or rank of the wearer, was forbidden by law; furs fermine, and pearl ornaments (except for headdress), were forbidden to all but the royal family and the wealthiest nobles; cloths of gold and silver were permitted only to the next in fortune; and perons of small income were forbidden to wear silks, embroidery, or trinkets. But the ladies dressed still more sumptuously, as in the engraving, where the gown Ets close in the boddice, and the train is so long in the

front as to be held up, and thus display the embroidered under-dress; the sleeveless jacket worn over the gown is also embroidered and trimmed with fur; the hair is worn long, and the cap is low, and resembles a coronet. Tippets from short sleeves, and the jupon, were also worn by ladies as well as by gentlemen; and both sexes wore daggers stuck through pouches in their rich girdles. The parti-coloured tunics worn by the ladies at tournaments were likewise very striking, and greatly encouraged the fopperies of the time. One of the additions to the military costume of this period was the knight's cap and crest.*

Lady of 14th Century. In this reign mourning habits appear to have been first worn, the colours being black and brown.

The reign of Richard II. must have been the high carnival of coxcombry. The sovereign himself, according to Holinshed, had a coat or robe which cost 30,000 merks. Parti-coloured dresses were universally worn, and even the hose were of two colours, so as to render the term, a pair, inapplicable: the colours of the king and his court were white and red. Men and women alike wore hoods set with jewels; and their tippets were jagged, and reached to the heels; and the longpeaked shoes, called crackowes (from Cracow, in Poland), were fastened to the knees with gold and

silver chains. The engraving shows a gentleman of this period, with shoes and hose all in one, the mantle cut into the shape of leaves at the edges, a belt and pouch, and a fantastically-turbaned headcovering. Chaucer has left us the costume of several ranks at this period: his squire wears a short gown," with sleeves long and wide" his yeoman "a cote and hoode of grene;" his merchant many colours, with a forked beard, and a "Flaundrish bever hat," and clasped boots; the reeve or steward a long surcoat and rusty sword, his beard and head shaven and shorn; the miller wore a white coat and blue hood, a sword and Gentleman of 14th buckler, and red cloth holidayCentury. hose; and the hats, caps, and bonnets of all classes were very fantastical. Knives, ornamented with silver, and purses, were worn by most classes in their girdles; and shoulder-belts, with bells, were a mark of rank. Liveries are also now mentioned as worn by substantial artisans as well as by menial servants; but the ploughman appears only in a tabard or sleeveless coat, and the mechanic in a tunic. The hair was worn long and curled, and the beard forked.

See note to Hallam's History of the Middle Ages. +Few enactments have been more erroneous in principle, or in operation more detrimental to national prosperity, than the ptuary laws, by which, in the earlier ages of our history, the islature so vainly, and, it may be added, so unjustly endeaured to prevent the various ranks of men from enjoying the its of their industry or of their patrimonial possessions. "There hardly," says Mr M'Culloch, "a single article among those that are now reckoned most indispensable to existence which In the female costume of this reign the fantastic las not been denounced, at its introduction, as a useless super-parti-coloured dresses were retained, with the embroiLaity, or being in some way injurious. Few articles of clothing dered jupons and kirtles, hip-kirdles, and long tippets are at present considered more indispensable than shirts; but from the elbow ; and the surcol or external corset, faced there are instances on record of individuals being put in the with fur, and terminating in a train sometimes so long llory for presuming to wear so expensive and unnecessary a asury!" Mr Hallam observes, that the sumptuary laws, enacted as to be carried over the arm, or shorter, opened up In France and England during the fourteenth century by the the side, and bordered with ermine. The gowns,

overnments, to restrain the extravagance of their subjects, may well justify the severe indignation which Adam Smith has poured apon all such interference with private expenditure. "The kings of France and England were undoubtedly more egregious spendthrifts than any others in their dominions, and contributed far more, by their love of pageantry, to excite a taste for dissipation in their people, than by their ordinances to repress it."

* The origin of the "Prince of Wales' Feathers" (a triple ostrich plume) was long referred to the Black Prince adopting them from the helmet of the king of Bohemia; next, they were stated to have been assumed from that monarch's banner; but there is still greater reason to believe the plume to have been but a fanciful badge chosen when feathers were first used as heraldic crests upon helmets.

mantles, and other garments, were emblazoned with | lars of ermine, with bars according to the rank of the arms, or they bore sentimental mottoes; and the royal badge of a white hart, chained, was much worn at tournaments and jousts. The head-dress continued as in the preceding reign. The attire of the carpenter's wife in the "Canterbury Tales," with a silk girdle and headfillet, and brooch, indicates the condition of this class of females.

FIFTEENTH CENTURY.

Whatever may have been the foppery of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, they appear to have been exceeded by the absurdities of costume in the fifteenth century, when it was difficult by dress to distinguish one sex from the other. These fantasies were mostly borrowed from France, whose fashions now began exclusively to guide the taste of the English, and have continued to do so until the present time.

The effigy of Henry IV. is remarkably splendid, the upper tunic, girdle, and mantle being embroidered at the edges, and the latter connected by a richlyjewelled band across the chest, besides cords and tassels. The beard and mustachios are worn, but the poll is shaven; the crown is supposed to be an imitation of the magnificent" Harry Crown," broken up and pawned by Henry V. Early in this reign, too, the sumptuary laws were revived not only as to materials but fashions; so that garments, cut or slashed in devices, were forbidden, but with little effect. In this reign appeared the collar of SS (or Esses), which Meyrick considers to have been taken from the initial letter of Henry's motto, "Souveraine." The annexed engraving represents a gentleman of this reign in shortened tunic, buttoned in front, with girdle, large flapping sleeves, tight hose, peaked shoes, and head-cloth, with long end hanging over the left shoulder, and tucked in the girdle. The next cut shows a labourer of the same period in the ordinary woollen dress, with hood and tippet, hose, and leather boots laced in front. The female costume in this reign differed from that of the preceding princi pally in a kerchief or veil covering the head-dress, and assuming a square form.

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In the short reign of Henry V., there were few changes in the civil costume: cloaks of scarlet cloth or camlet, and pieces of fur, are novel outer garments. Feathers were worn in the helmets, and the bascinet took the shape of the head behind: for the jupon or surcoat was substituted a skirt of horizontal steel bands, and large sleeves of cloth or silk were worn over the armour, and the two-handed sword now first appeared. The confused costume in the reign of Henry VI. baffles classification, more especially the odd-shaped caps, hats, and bonnets, in which a single feather was sometimes worn. The boots or galoches, reaching half way up the thigh, the short boots or buskins, and the high-fronted shoes, had very long toes, which, in the next reign, reached half a foot. The state robes were lined and trimmed with furs or had only capes or col

wearer. The mantle of the Order of the Garter about this period was first made of velvet, and hel with white damask or satin. Silk was worn ever armour, and the salade or sallet head-piece, projecting behind, was introduced; and the armour was richly ornamented. Gowns, with long and heavy trains, c tinued to be worn by ladies, whose most fantastic change was the heart-shaped head-dress of great size: ter bans of the Turkish form were also worn.

Edward IV., on his seal, wears a tunic, dalmatics, mantle, deep ermine cape, and high-arched or m rial crown. The civil costume was very absurd; jackets and doublets were worn so short as to forth a law in 1463 ordering them to be length behind; the sleeves were slit, so as to show the white linen shirt, and the shoulders were padded: men wore their hair very long, and their bonnets either very high or covering simply the crown; the were tight, and the boots and shoes of all patters: lengths. Gold chains were generally worn; and boys strutted in velvet, silk, and satim. All this travagance was attempted to be checked by law)

with little effect. In arms the principal novelty was halbert. In the female tume, trains of gowns partially discontinued broad fur or velvet bord and the silk girdles wide and were more richly mented. The boddice, laced front over a stomacher, first appeared. But the gra est eccentricity was the le steeple head-dress, shown the annexed portrait; consisted of a roll of. covered with fine lawn, als hung to the ground, er mostly tucked under the arm Caps, with large wings Lady of 15th century. lappets on each side, also much worn at this period.

Richard III., according to his wardrober's was a right royal fop, for we find him wearing cloth-of-gold doublet and stomacher, "wrogha netts and pyne-apples," and crimson and purplew robes, embroidered and furred, and crimson satin ard tissue cloth-of-gold shoes, at his coronation nobles in this reign had their hose tied by points to doublet, which was sometimes worn open, bat like a boddice; and over it was worn a long or gown, the former hanging loose, and the latter pla before and behind, and girdled about the wast both gown and doublet were slashed. The gen head-dress was a closely-fitting cap or bonet (b with a single feather in it; and scarlet hats and he were worn. The boots had very long-pointed to, reached to the middle of the thigh.

In this reign plate-armour reached its highes fection; it was elaborately ornamented and inland gold, and, with the arms, it bore religious and mottoes; and the knee and elbow pieces were shaped, and curiously wrought. Richard wers crown of ornament in the field of Bosworth, as Be V. had done at Agincourt. The mode of putting

* It is related that Isabella of Bavaria, queen of Charles 17 France, carried this fashion to such an extent as to h doorways of the palace of Vincennes altered to admit ladies wh in full dress; but we think, with M. Planche, that the a anecdote, if authentic, relates to the steeple hd

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at the present time in Syria. M. Planché consider oue This extraordinary head-dress resembles the anter peasantry of Normandy to this day wear the ideation a caps with the butterfly wings, that, 359 years ags, towend the heads of the gentle dames of London and ParisBritish Costume, p. 207.

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