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FIVE-CARD CRIBBAGE.

Proper cribbage is played with five cards, and we shall give a description of it in reference to two persons. After the dealer has been determined by cutting, as in whist, they are dealt one alternately, to the extent of five for each individual. The elder hand takes three points on the board. Each player then proceeds to lay out two of the five cards for the crib, which always belong to the dealer. In doing this, always recollect whose crib it is, as the cards which may advantage your own are almost invariably prejudicial to your game when given to your adversary. This done, the non-dealer cuts the remainder of the pack, and the dealer turns up the uppermost. This card, whatever it may be, is reckoned by each party in hand or crib. When it happens to be a knave, the dealer scores two points to his game.

After laying out and cutting as above mentioned, the eldest hand plays any card, which the other endeavours to pair, or to find one, the points of which, reckoned with the first, will make fifteen; then the non-dealer plays another card, trying to make a pair, or pair royal, and so on alternately till the points of the cards played make thirty-one, or the nearest possible number under that.

When the party whose turn it may be to play cannot produce a card that will make thirty-one, or come in under that number, he then says, "go," to his antagonist, who thereupon is to play any card he has that will come in to make thirty-one, if he can, and take two points, or to score one for the end hole; and besides, the last player has often opportunities to take pairs or sequences. Such cards as remain after this are not to be played; but each party having, during the play, scored his points gained, in the manner as hereafter directed, proceeds, the non-dealer first, then the dealer, to count and take for his hand and crib as follows, reckoning the cards every way they possibly can be varied, and always including the turned-up card :-For every fifteen, two points; for every pair, or two of a sort, two points; for every pair royal, or three of a sort, six points; for every double pair royal, or four of a sort, twelve points; for every sequence of any sort, according to the number; for every flush, according to the number; for every knave or noddy of the same suite as was turned up, one point; but when turned up it is not to be reckoned again, nor is anything to be taken for it when played.

Three cards of the same suite in hand entitle the holder to reckon that number, and five for the crib when the turned-up card happens to be of the same suite.

It is always highly necessary, in laying out cards for the crib, that every player should consider not only his own hand, but also whom the crib belongs to, and what is the state of the game; because what might be proper in one situation would be extremely imprudent

in another.

If you should happen to possess a pair royal, be sure to lay out the other two cards for either your own or your adversary's crib, except you hold two fives with the pair royal; in that case, it would be extremely injudicious to lay them out for your adversary's crib, unless the cards you retain insure your game, or your adversary being so near home that the crib becomes of no importance.

It is generally right to flush your cards in hand whenever you can, as it may assist your own crib or baulk your opponent's.

Endeavour always to retain a sequence in your hand, and particularly if it is a flush.

Always lay out close cards, such as a three and four, a five and six, for your own crib, unless it breaks your

hand.

same suite, in preference to two of different suites, this will give you the chance of a flush in the crib. Never lay out cards of the same suit for your ad versary's crib.

Endeavour always to baulk your opponent's mik The best cards for this purpose are a king and an are a six, a seven, an eight, a nine, or a ten; or a ques with an ace, a six, a seven, an eight, or a nine; aray cards not likely to form a sequence.

A king is generally esteemed the greater baulk; from its being the highest card in the pack, no higher one can come in to form a sequence.

Never lay out a knave for your adversary's er. when you can possibly avoid it, as it is only three one but the card turned up is of the same suite, by what he will obtain a point.

Even though you should hold a pair royal, never hy out for your adversary's crib a two and three, a five and six, a seven and eight, or a five and any tenth card. Whenever you hold such cards, observe th state of your game, and, particularly if it is neary ended, whether your adversary is nearly out, or witha a moderate show, and it is your deal. When this the case, you must retain such cards as will, in playing, prevent your adversary from making pairs or sequen &c., and enable you to win the end-hole, which often prevent your opponent from winning the game.

THREE AND FOUR HAND CRIBBAGE,

Three and four hand cribbage differs only from t hand in as far as the parties only put out one card eart to the crib; and when thirty-one, or as nearly as be, have been made, then the next eldest hand less, and the players go on again, in rotation, with any maining cards, till all are played out, before they pr ceed to show their hands and crib.

In three-hand cribbage, a triangular board is A, with three lines of holes to allow of each scoring his own game.

SIX-CARD CRIBBAGE.

five-card, that any one playing the one well must par Six-card cribbage bears so great a resemblance t the other equally so. It consists of pairs, fifteem sequences, flushes, &c., and the points are recko and marked precisely in the same manner; all the car the end hole, the remaining cards in hand must must be played out; that is, when either party has ma played, scoring for the pairs or fifteens they may form When last player, you should endeavour to retain ci cards in hand, as they may enable you to acquire four points in playing.

The dealer is supposed to have some trifling advantag The dealer is entitled to expect twenty-five p by his hand, crib, and next hand. Thus, at his see! deal, if his peg is in the twenty-fifth hole of the boar he has his complement of points; the same at his third deal, if he is within eleven points of the game.

If the non-dealer by his first hand attain the eleventh hole in the board, he will have the best of the game for he is entitled to expect that he shall make second deal with his front peg in the thirty-sixth ho and by which he will probably win the game by hand, crib, and next hand.

complement of points, you must play your game accor If you are dealer, and your adversary has above s ingly. Thus, if you have good cards, try to make a contrary, if your cards are indifferent, you must pay many points as possible by pairing, fifteens, &c. Os th off, to prevent your adversary from obtaining points.

ALL-FOURS.

This is a game at cards played by two, three, or fa persons, with a complete pack of cards. If four, there are two parties, two in each. We shall suppose only tw individuals are playing:

As there is one card more to count in the crib at five-card cribbage than there is in hand, be sure to pay After the cards have been dealt by three at a time, great attention to the crib, as the probability of reck-six to each, the dealer turns up the next card as the oning more points for the crib than hand is five to four. trump. If your adversary be not satisfied with har For your own crib, always lay out two cards of the hand, he says, " I beg." In this case, if you do not

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wish to run the risk of changing the trump, you say, "I give you one," and you allow him to score one towards his game. If your own hand be bad, you then deal out three more cards to each, and turn up another trump, which supersedes the former. The adversary may propose to take the chance of dealing three more cards to each, but this can be refused by the dealer, without any forfeiture.

The cards are then played, the elder hand leading, and the party taking up the tricks which he wins. You must either follow suite or trump, if you can.

Ten points make the game, and they are produced by high, which is the highest trump dealt; low, or the lowest trump dealt; jack, or knave of trumps; and game, the number of pips on the counting cards. The counting cards are as follows:-ace, four; king, three; queen, two; knave, one; and the ten, which reckons ten. This counting applies to all suites. If the jack be in your hand, secure it as quickly as possible; as, for instance, do not lose an opportunity of trumping with it; for if it fall into the adversary's hand, he reckons it to his game.

Should the card turned up be a knave, the dealer scores one point to his game. Knave of trumps in hand does not reckon, unless you make a trick with it; for if your adversary takes it with the ace, king, or queen, he scores it.

SPECULATION.

This is a round game at cards, the term round meaning that it can be played by a large party round a table.

The number most suitable is from seven to thirteen.

The principle of the game is this: A pool is formed by the dealer putting two counters, and every other player putting one counter, into a dish or treasury in the middle of the table; and this store is paid to the person who holds the highest trump. Thus it is the object of every person to get the highest trump, and the effort to do so is the speculation, from which the game derives its name.

When all the cards are played out, they will make but five tricks; and all the counters in the pool are divided between the holders of these tricks, every other person being looed, and obliged to pay five counters to the pool for next deal.

DANCING.

Dancing, as one of the most healthful and elegant in-door amusements, cannot be too highly recommended. Among a rude or dissolute people, it may degenerate into something worthy of condemnation; but all the blessings of providence are similarly liable to abuse, and it would be most unjust to condemn a cheerful domestic amusement, merely because it has at times been degraded to immoral purposes. By all physicians, dancing, when pursued in moderation, is recommended as highly conducive to health; and it may be truly said that, allied with music, nothing is more calculated to purge the mind of melancholy, and put the whole temper into good humour.

Dancing is the poetry of motion. It must be performed with ease and grace, and always with a perfect regard for propriety of movement. As an art, it is taught by professed masters; and one of the leading rules given to the learner is to raise and lower himself gracefully on the elastic part of his feet, that is, the toes; never to leap or come down on the whole sole or heels; also to keep exact time to the music. Dancing is therefore a simple and elegant gliding on the toes, these bending more or less to accommodate the steps, and to prevent everything like harshness of motion. The body should not be held stiffly, and the hands ought to hang down easily by the sides.

Dancing takes the form of several distinct kinds or series of movements, some quick and some slow, and some more complex than others. The most popular of the old-established dances are termed

Country Dances.

After being duly shuffled and cut, and the dealer determined, he deals three cards to each person, one at This class of dances takes its name from the French ▲ time. These cards must be placed before each per- word contre (against), from being danced by two parties son, and no one is allowed to look at them until after standing in a row opposite or against each other. The the trump is turned. Having finished the deal, the general principle is for each couple in succession to go next card determines the trump; this card may be sold down the middle of the rows and up again, with some either before or after being seen. When this speculaother movements, till all have danced down and into tion is concluded, by some person purchasing it with their original places. It is a rule for the top couple to counters, or the dealer retaining it, if he thinks proper, dance down twice, thus leaving the couple that was the the eldest hand turns his uppermost card, and if this be second to be at the top. This finishes the dance. If the a superior trump to the one turned, he may also spe- party wish to dance another dance, the second couple, culate. Each player does the same, till all the cards now at the top, begins, and so on. Thus, each couple in have been exposed, when the pool is given to the pos-cular dance or tune they may wish. The choice is left the party has the opportunity of choosing any partiBessor of the highest trump.

LOO.

Loo is a game played by five or six people; and a pool is made by the dealer putting in five counters. He then deals five cards to each person, and turns up a trump. Whatever suite the trump may be, the knave of clubs, pam, forms the chief. Those who are dissatisfied with their hands can throw up their cards, and demand fresh ones from the pack.

called

When the ace of trumps is played, it is usual to say, "Pam, be civil" the holder of pam is then expected to let the ace pass.

When any person holds a flush of trumps with pam, this individual can sweep the pool before playing. Then there is a new deal.

The next best hand to the above is trumps only, and this sweeps the pool, if there be not a pam flush; and there is also a new deal.

The next best hand is that of a flush of other suites, which sweeps the pool; and there is also a new deal. When any of these flushes occur, each person, excepting those who hold inferior flushes or pam, is looed, and has to pay five counters into the pool.

When none of these flushes occur, and those who wish have changed their cards, the game goes on as at whist, the highest card taking the trick.

to the lady. In general, a party in a country dance do not remain up for more than two dances, when the partners are changed, and new dances begin.

A country dance should not consist of more than twelve or fourteen couples, as it is fatiguing to dance with a greater number. In standing up, the lady should always be on the gentleman's right hand, if they turn their faces to the top of the room. This is a simple rule to determine on which side the ladies and gentlemen should respectively take their places.

The principal figures in country dances are, 1. Hands across; that is, the top lady takes the second gentleman by the right hand, and the top gentleman, at the same time, takes the second lady by the right hand, and all go a half-circle round; then all change hands and back again.

2. Hands four round; the two top couples join hands, forming a circle; dance half round and back again.

3. Right and Left.-In this the top lady gives her right hand to her partner, changing places with him ; then her left hand to the person below her, changing places; her partner performs a similar movement, and both return to their places.

4. Set and change sides.-The lady takes hold of both hands of the lady below her, and sets, that is, dances for a short time without changing her situation; then

both ladies pass to the gentlemen's side, while the gen- | the dance begins, the plan is for each person to perform tlemen pass at their backs to the ladies' side; all again set, and return to their places.

5. Pousette. This signifies that the two top couples respectively join hands, each couple dancing round the other.

6. Down the middle. The top couple go down hand in hand and return, stopping one couple lower than they commenced.

7. Casting off is the lady going down behind the ladies, and the gentleman behind the gentlemen, and returning to their places.

There are English, Irish, and Scotch country dances; but we know of no distinction among them except the tunes. All vary less or more in their figures. In each, however, as already observed, the plan is followed of the first or top couple dancing with each following couple in succession to the bottom of the room; and as soon as a sufficient number of couples are disengaged at top, another couple commences, and so on through the whole party. The following is an outline of the figures in a few of the more popular country dances. It will be understood that we always refer to what each couple does in succession:

Voulez vous dancer, Mademoiselle.-Set and change sides, down the middle, up again, and pousette. John of Paris.-Right and left, down the middle, up again, and pousette.

Captain Fleming.-Hands across, down the middle, up again, and hands four round.

The Honeymoon.-Hands three round on the ladies' side, then on the gentlemen's side, down the middle, up again, pousette, right and left.

The Triumph.-Down the middle and up again; then the lady down with the next gentleman; her partner follows: the two gentlemen now lead the lady up between them, taking hold of her hands by one hand, and joining their other hands over her head; pousette.

Petronella. First couple move to the right into the middle, and set; to the right again, and set at the side; to the right again, and set in the middle; to the right again to places; down the middle, up again, and pousette.

Caper Fey.-Top couple go down backs and up again; down the middle and up again; set, and turn corners, and reel on the sides.

The Legacy-Hands three round on the ladies' side; then on the gentlemen's side; down the middle and up again; set in the middle, and turn with both hands.

Sir Roger De Coverley, or the Haymakers.-Top lady and the bottom gentleman advance to the centre of the dance, turn with both hands, and back to their places; the first gentleman and bottom lady do the same; the top lady and bottom gentleman again advance, turn with the right hand, and back to places; then the top gentleman and bottom lady do the same; top lady and bottom gentleman advance and turn with left hand, and back to places; the top gentleman and bottom lady do the same. The top lady and bottom gentleman advance, the gentleman bows and the lady curtsies; the top gentleman and bottom lady do the same. The top lady and bottom gentleman advance, and pass back to back; top gentleman and bottom lady do the same. The top couple turn, the lady to the right and the gentleman to the left; all the ladies following the lady, and all the gentlemen following the gentleman to the bottom of the room, where they meet their partners and lead up the centre of the room. The top couple then half pousette with each couple, till they reach the bottom of the dance.

Scotch Reels.

These are rapid and rather fatiguing, but not ungraceful dances. They are danced by three, four, five, or six persons; but four is best and most common. The foursome reel is danced very much according to fancy; the two couples commencing by placing themselves opposite each other, or in a line, with the two ladies in the middle, back to back. In whichever way

the figure of eight by winding round the others, and setting to partners alternately. The music, of cours guides the time for the setting and the moving,

Highlanders dance reels with great agility, and ar fond of introducing the steps ordinarily called te Highland fling, which is of the character of dancing each foot alternately, and flinging the other in front and behind the leg which is dancing.

Quadrilles.

These are modern dances of French origin, erparatively tranquil in character, and very suitable small domestic parties. They are danced by fot couples, or eight persons, a couple standing on each side of a square. The lady is always on the gentleman'ı right.

There are many sets of quadrilles, the figures in eac varying from the others; but in by far the greater number of instances one set is adhered to, which a termed Payne's first set. This set, of which we preses. an outline, consists of four figures, and a finale. T couples at top and bottom first perform a figure; the it is performed by the others; and so on.

La Pantalon. First right and left, set and te partners; ladies' chain, which is performed by the tw ladies giving their right hands to each other, x changing places; then their left hands to the gene men, and turn round; and the same back agai places. Now, promenade (each couple holding hash crossed) to the opposite side; then half right and back to places.

L'Ete. The first lady and opposite gentlema vance and retire, dance to the right, then to the cross over, lady and gentleman changing places. Du to the right and left, cross again to their own ples and turn their partners. The second lady and m gentleman do the same.

La Poule. The first lady and opposite gentle cross over, giving their right hands; back again, ge their left and then right to their partners, and . forming a line; promenade to opposite places. The two who began advance and retire; advance a samol time; the lady curtsies and the gentleman bows, z / return. The two couples advance and retire; ha right and left to their original places.

La Trenise.-Ladies' chain; set and turn partners; first couple advance and retire; advance again; gentleman returns, leaving the lady on the left of t opposite gentleman; the two ladies pass or cross to the opposite side, changing to opposite corners, darit which the gentleman passes between them, and sca The ladies cross over again, and pass to opposite en ners, while the gentleman returns to his place, und sets. The first couple set and turn. During th performances, the gentleman at the bottom of the dam stands still. The movement being finished, a simber figure is performed by himself and partner.

La Finale-All eight dance or chassé across, chang ing places with their partners, and set at the cornery back again to places, and set. After this, L'Ea danced, concluding with chassé across.

This finale is danced in another way. All sigh promenade round the room to their own places. T first and second couple advance and retire; advace again, the gentlemen taking the opposite ladies, arms changing partners. Ladies' chain; advance and retre advance again, reclaiming partners, and promenl This is called the gallopade finale.

The preceding embraces nearly all dances usİy performed in private parties and balls of an erdmar, kind. In the higher class of assemblies, various foreg dances are introduced, such as waltzes, mazourkas, pav seuls, minuets, and gallopades; but of these it is necessary to offer any description, as they requre careful training under a master.

Printed and published by W. and R. CHanners, Blad
Sold also by W. S. ORn and Co., Londur.

CHAMBERS'S

INFORMATION FOR THE PEOPLE.

CONDUCTED BY WILLIAM AND ROBERT CHAMBERS, EDITORS OF CHAMBERS'S
EDINBURGH JOURNAL, EDUCATIONAL COURSE, &c.

NUMBER 86.

NEW AND IMPROVED SERIES.

FOREIGN COSTUMES.

PRICE 1d.

EUROPEAN COSTUMES.

AMONG the many subjects of just and natural curiosity | Egyptians professed great skill: their gold mines were in the history of mankind, there is none more distinc- worked under the early Pharaohs; beads and other tive and characteristic of a people than the peculiar ornaments of glass are found on many mummies; whilst, costume in which they are attired. The various articles at a very early date, the rich gems of the east were of clothing have, from the earliest ages, formed the conveyed thither, for which Egypt gave in return its principal manufactures of every country-skill and in- manufactures of fine linen, its robes, and its carpets. dustry in which, carried to a certain extent, mark, be- Such were the principal articles of costume in earliest yond almost any other circumstance, the advance of a use; and although few, they denote convenience and people in arts and civilisation. The savage wraps him- even costliness and magnificence in dress to have chaself in the skins of the animals upon whose flesh he racterised civilisation in its remotest ages. feeds; and even the most inhospitable regions furnish not only their natives with such rude clothing, but also supply the more civilised world; for example, the Danes obtain from Greenland seal-skins and fur, the ciderdown for the couch of the luxurious noble, and whalebone to complete the wardrobe of the court beauty. The processes by which plain substances shorn from an animal or gathered from a plant are converted into magnificent robes of the most brilliant tints, involve some of the most striking points in the history of human invention. But the entire subject of costume is replete with interest, from the rude skin-coverings of the natives of the icy north and south, to the exquisite fineness and beauty of the fabrics of the east, and the elegance and economy of those of the west. Ingenuity is not, however, exclusively the work of civilisation; for we find the wild Indians of both the Americas, the South-Sea islanders, the negroes and Hottentots of Africa, and the poor savages of the Polar Regions, all acquainted with the art of plaiting wood, grass, or seaweed; and some of them producing, merely by hand, textures which we, assisted by all the aid of machinery, can scarcely rival.

The form of dress throughout the civilised nations of modern Europe is generally far from picturesque, and has been adopted more for personal convenience than external effect. While in eastern countries the garments are light, flowing, and graceful, in those of the west they are stiff and formal, and generally composed of materials which are alike substantial and durable.

The earliest clothing was coats of skins, from which the transition was to woollen tissues, linens, cotton, and sak, in the various forms which fancy suggested. Linen was made at a very early period in Egypt, as we see from the cloth wrappers of mummies, which are all linen; and early in the present century, there were found at Sakkara two Egyptian tunics, in the form of a shirt, and opposed to be the "linen ephod" of Scripture.* The Egyptians also knew the art of colouring and preparing leather, of which, as well as papyrus, they made sandals, and subsequently shoes. It is uncertain whether cotton was known to the Egyptians; but the cotton plant is found wild both in the old and new world. Herodotus mentions it as indigenous in India; and cotton cloth has been found in ancient Peruvian tombs. The country of the Hindoos has always been distinguished in the art of weaving; and thence, through the medium of Egypt, ancient Rome is stated to have been supplied with fine India cottons ; whilst the beauty and durability of the Indian colours were as celebrated among the Greeks and Romans as among ourselves. Silk also was manufactured in India in very early times. In fabricating articles for ornamenting the person, the

*Notes to Fictorial Bible, Samuel, ch. ii., ver. 18.

Northern Nations.-Commencing our survey at Lapland, we find that the wandering tribes of that remote and inclement region use a dress either of the skins

of reindeer, or of thick woollen cloths. The men generally wear a grey conical cap, with eight seams covered with strips of brown cloth, the cap itself reaching only to the tips of the ears; and they rarely have any thing round their necks except their long black hair. Their tunic or short coat is mostly of sheep-skin, with the wool inwards, next the skin, and over this is a similar garment of woollen or skins, with a stiff collar. Their pantaloons are of woollen, tapering to their half-boots; they wear no stockings, but straw and rushes are stuffed into the shoe around the foot and ankle ; and their gloves are of skin, lined with cypress-grass. They have no pockets, but a small bag hangs about breast-high, and a leathern belt is worn round the waist. The Lapland women have a peculiar fancy for gaudy colours, with which they work their skin or cloth caps, and gowns; they have a girdle containing their needles, scissors, and thread, hanging at their sides, and they wear small brass trinkets, which they prize highly.

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The Laplander.

The clothing of the Icelanders is not very dissimilar, being equally substantial and homely; the chief difference being, that hats of a peculiar form are used instead of caps, and jackets instead of pelisses. The ladies of

Iceland have also some gaudy trappings. Many of them wear about the waist a silver massive girdle, with an ornament above it, fastened in front on a belt of richlyworked velvet. These silver ornaments, in design and execution, are equal to any thing of the kind which a jeweller in England could fabricate, although they are the work of the peasantry. But the most distinctive portion of Icelandic dress is a kind of turban of white linen, stiffened with pins to about twenty inches in height, and sometimes terminated with a tassel, and fastened to the head by a dark silk kerchief, which completely hides the hair. Sometimes, instead of the above head-dress, the women wear a closely-fitting helmet-shaped worked cloth-cap, with a snow-white muslin termination, curved over in front.

Russia. Throughout Russia the dress of the higher ranks is now formed on the European model; but the burghers, merchants, and peasants, wear the national costume of Asiatic character. This consists of a conical or square high-crowned hat or cap, a long coarse coat reaching to the calves of the legs, and girdles, with a sash, in which the wearer carries his purse, and often his hatchet; a woollen cloth is wrapped round the legs instead of stockings, and the boots or shoes are made of the rind of the young linden, plaited; each pair is rarely worn more than five or six days, so that many millions of these shoes are annually consumed.

Some of the costumes of the Russian peasantry are strikingly picturesque. The holiday dresses of the females are very gay, the principal garment being a loose jacket of sky-blue silk, the sleeves lined with spotted fur, and hanging loose from the shoulders. Among the Tartar population, the women wear embroidered velvet jackets over showy petticoats, and the little national tippet of red or yellow silk, lined with fur; gaudy colours are in great request, and even the poorest persons have their kirtles showily trimmed. The men, too, wear coarse cloth more frequently than skins. Towards Tula, however, the women wear the most dashing costume; a flat-fronted head-dress of gold or silver embroidery; the legs are swathed in folds of white worsted, and the feet are lodged in sandals; and the principal robe is a white eastern tunic, girdles round the waist, but floating loose below, and left open at the bosom, to display the top of a short petticoat trimmed with red; so that, "in gay tiara and flaunting robe, the maidens of Riazan strut about with all the dignity of tragic queens."

The costume of the Cossack is gay. At home, the Don Cossack wears a blue jacket lined with silk and edged with gold-lace, silk vest and girdle, ample white trousers, and a large cap of black wool, with a red bag floating behind. The women wear open silk tunics, white trousers, and yellow boots. The soldiers dress in a short Polish jacket, wide dark-blue trousers, and a huge sheep-skin cap.

The dress of Swedes, Norwegians, and Danes, is now similar to the costume of central Europe, but generally sober in tone and precise in fashion. As every where else, the costume of the humbler class of women is much gayer than that of the men. This is very observable at Stockholm, where a variety is displayed very different from the general monotony of northern attire. The boat-women wear huge muslin caps, a bright scarlet boddice, a striped apron of blue, black, or red, over a greyish petticoat, thick stockings of flaming red, and "the largest and most marvellous shoes in the world," with birch-wood soles several inches thick, heavily shod with iron, and a round lump in the middle. But the Sunday full dress of the women is still more gaudy. A long kerchief is rolled round the hair like a turban, but with a loose end, and the long white robe, of thick cloth edged with red, thrown open at the girdle, and the lower corners pinned at the leg behind the petticoat, also of bright colours and ample dimensions-all give the wearer an Asiatic appearance among the blue skirts and homely linsey

"Excursions in Russia."

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woolsey of the general population. The holiday es tume of the mountain maids of Norway is also pretty, They wear short loose scarlet or green cloth spensers, embroidered at the edges, and trimmed with shing buttons, and hanging over a coarse dark petticoat: te poorest women, however, wear a shapeless gown sack of blue woollen, strapped tight up to the arm-pra Germany.-Advancing southwards to Germany ad the Netherlands, the costume of the people is genera found to be modernised and reduced to that condit in which it is found in London and Paris. It is pr cipally among certain classes of the fishing populate and the peasantry, that any striking peculiarity of ertume exists.

In the mountainous territories of Austria, Styria, the national dress is, however, very picturesge The women wear full short petticoats, with cour boddices, tightly laced, and snow-white sleeves rearing to the elbows, and straw hats lined with green and ornamented with flowers and feathers. The mes usually wear a green hat, with a curious cock feathers, mixed with the hair of the chamois and t deer, and secured in the centre with gold tinsel, ar which wave long red feathers; "green jackets, bas chamois leather small clothes, edged with green lea striped stockings, and shoes tied with green ribboa, L a broad leathern belt embroidered with green snk, e plete the costume of a genuine mountaineer of Styra Among the peasantry of Carniola, too, may be some interesting primitive attire; as a short ear linen tunic (which also serves as a shirt), conf med «? an untanned skin girdle, and sandals of the same 7material, and very wide small-clothes reaching o the knee, but neither stockings nor hat.

In Bohemia, the general poverty of the peasants apparent in their dress, which is rarely little b than tatters. The market at Prague, however, m sents some picturesque costume; as the women war i neatly trimmed jackets, ornamented boddices, and ri coloured petticoats and stockings, and head-dr of kerchiefs fastened with large pins. The men * ** very full small-clothes, ornamented jackets and and broad-brimmed, low-crowned hats. The Mor: peasants of both sexes wear sheep-skin mant * a winter, but their summer dresses are of wood 18 cotton of the gayest colours, the stockings and dices being red, and the mantles blue or gre the men wear a very short tunic, belted, tight loons, and sandaled boots nearly to the knees, broad flapping hat, sometimes ornamented with ba~ • of gay ribbons. The materials of clothing are a dant in these countries; linen, including cambrət, an and tape, being the staple; and the woollen and ** manufactures are very flourishing. The linens of ~ › sia, too, are the best in the world.

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Prussia has little to distinguish it in the rear costume from the other countries of Germany. its capital, the fashionable embroidery known as B- * work, dates from the commencement of the pr century; but this is mostly employed as orra furniture. It may here be mentioned, that in r work Germany stands first, then Russia, Ea France, America, &c., the three first names o list being by far the largest consumers; and " many, many ladies of rank add to their pin-mo" " executing needlework for the warehouses.

Bavaria presents very beautiful and tastef tumes. In the streets of Munich, on holidays, a va woman may be seen wearing a silver tiara, a bi tin brocade boddice, and a skirt and apron of ♥1 muslin; and a waiting-maid will display a silver bi dress, and a gown, the whole of which, above the ture, is entirely of silver or gold; and these be ornaments form the distinctive national costume it pretty women of Munich. In the environs if the “ the men wear round blue jackets, tight black bewe ' and white stockings; red waistcoats, with niver maj loaf buttons, outside which are worn braces gar? *"Germany and the Germans.

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