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replaced, and they were too ornamental to be relinquished. Then followed the white lily, and a variety of irises, all of which increased fast, and flowered abundantly. The peony I could never persuade to flower; in the first place, it does not blossom well until it has been for years settled in a garden, and I believe its beauty even then is greatly dependent upon the purity of the air. My buddlea was every spring covered with its golden balls, and grew so quickly that I scarcely knew what to do with it. I am surprised this beautiful shrub is not more common: it is perfectly hardy, even as a standard; it will remove well, even when it has attained a considerable size; it is very easily raised by layers; and there is an air of grandeur about it, both as to leaves and flowers, that raises it above the common flowering shrubs of our gardens. But we go on in the old-fashioned manner of planting our gardens: the same varieties of deciduous shrubs are taken, without considering with how much advantage their places might be supplied by those more lately introduced. The magnolia, for instance, grows quickly, and flowers abundantly in the city upon a south wall; and the arbutus is not at all particular with respect to situation. The bignonia grandiflora also does not withhold its scarlet trumpet-like blossoms in the immediate vicinity of a steam-engine. To return to my garden, the glory of which in the autumn was the lobelia fulgens, I managed it thus: I sank in the ground, up to the rim, a large and deep seed-pan; this I filled to about three quarters of its depth with rich soil properly mixed, and planted my roots. As soon as the shoots appeared, I supplied them plentifully with water, and from time to time added more soil. The plants grew luxuriantly, furnishing tall and thick stems, with large and highlycoloured blossoms; indeed, the gardener who had assisted me said that he had never seen finer flowers. The sweet-scented marvel of Peru throve well with me, and the tiger-flower also. Carnations and picotees I tried one year, but was so much disappointed in the result, that I gave them up, although very reluctantly, as I believe carnations do not require a very pure air; and I have fancied since, that my failure with them arose from some other cause than the smoky atmosphere. Dahlias, also, although they flowered very well, I gave up. The amaryllis lutea flowered well with me when once established, and the hemerocalias cerulea and flava did the same."

but it will not grow to so great a height in such a situa tion as it does in the country. There are many other plants which might be treasures in a town garden; experience, however, is the best teacher in this as well as in more important matters, and if a garden be stocked with the plants I have mentioned, experiments may be made as to others; should they all fail, the garden will still be gay."

To the foregoing we need only add, that much may be done to keep garden plots neat by frequent trimming and raking, and particularly by keeping the plots in grass close shaven. To be kept in the best trim, grass should be mown once a-fortnight.

FLORICULTURAL MONTHLY CALENDAR.

January.-Little can be done in the flower-garden except the weather be open and dry; but advantage ought to be taken of favourable intervals to render the plots and borders neat ; to protect by coarse screenings of leaf-mould fuchsias, China roses, and other choice shrubs; for though they may not perish by frost, the mulch tends to enrich the soil, when forked in.

Propagate, by division of roots, daisies and thrift: protect the beds of hyacinths, anemones, ranunculuses, and tulips, by a covering of coarse litter. Top-dress auriculas, using a compost of light loam and two yearold cow-dung, mixed with a twelfth each of sea or river sand, and rotten wood. Plant all the bulbous roots that are still out of the ground.

In heat, sow mignionette, annual stock, penstemon diffusus, gentianoides, and other half-hardy annual and perennial plants, using the propagation-pot, by which means the entire number of seedlings (allowing for previous thinning out) can be transferred, with roots undisturbed, to the plots or borders. Commence sowing in the last week, for hot-house culture, seeds of Gloxinia and Gesneria; these, if obtained from impregnated plants, may yield new and striking varieties. Sow also (broken up and mixed with sand) the berries of Psidium Cattleyianum; this plant is one of the choicest evergreens of the stove, or even green-house, for it is not tender.

February.-Attend to the foregoing general directions, and now cut turf for lawns; fork and clean the flower-borders. Plant anemones, gladiolus, perennial herbaceous roots; and transfer others, dividing the crowns, to multiply the species. In this way almost all such plants can be increased. For examples of this division of roots, select the primrose, single, double, and the polyanthus. Transplant the rooted layers of carnations, also the divided roots of campanula, lobelia, lychnis, mullpink, and dianthus sinensis. Sow in mild heat any annual flower seeds, and of auricula and mimula, in boxes or pans. We include the beautiful primula sinensis. Excite choice dahlia roots, placing them in hot-bed frames, or in troughs or pots of old tan, or any light moist substance, on the floor of a stove or vinery at work.

After condemning annuals in general, the same writer goes on to say-" I own I am willing to make some exceptions myself in favour of the coreopsis, and such brilliant flowers particularly; the French marigold, too, and the scarlet zinnia, I could scarcely give The lupinus mutabilis blossoms well in the town, but it is very liable to be destroyed by a caterpillar; the easiest method of preventing which is to strew a litle soot around the plant. The grub, I suppose, will not rise through this: I found it more effectual than tebacco, which I also tried. The scarlet colutia is much eaten by an insect: I found the same method succeed in this case. I had forgotten to mention that all bulbs of the narcissus and jonquil tribe flowered well with e: the primrose and polyanthus gave miserable-looking blossoms. I planted the double pomegranate against my south wall, and it grew well: I left the house before the plant was old enough to flower. I should notice one great recommendation which American shrubs possess to those who are likely to change their residence-they may be removed without danger at almost any size. Mine were planted in a border of common earth, in a hole filled up with peat and loam fit for them; and when a rhododendron, four feet in height, was removed, it was found that the roots formed a complete ball, none of the fibres having penetrated beyond the soil which was proper for them. The common and Portugal laurel may be removed when very large: I have my-gonia. self seen one of the latter, which three men and a boy April.-Plant dahlia roots, in richly-manured loam, could with difficulty lift, transplanted with success. Of hollyhocks, carnations, biennials and perennials: at course, it was carefully tended as to water. The scar- this season, every herbaceous plant is almost certain let lychnis does not mind the corrupt air of the town; to succeed.' Campanulas (the tall pyramidal), raised

March. Sow annuals, including balsam seed, collected from the best double flowers. Plant boxedgings, using much pit-sand; also evergreen shrubs of every description. Transplant autumn-sown annuals into pots, and protect them, till fresh-rooted, under glass; as Clarkia of every kind, Calliopsis, Enothera Lindleyana, mignionette, Schizanthus pinnatus, and porrigens. Sow in the last week, in the open ground, and at the same time, a pot of each in heat, or at least under glass, stocks, foxglove, China-aster, Clarkia, dahlia, campanula, larkspur, penstemon, amaranthus, tobacco, and all the hardy annuals. Take cuttings of hydrangea from the tops of the shoots. These, if the buds be full, sometimes will produce a fine flowerhead, and the effect is striking. Soil, pure heath mould, or leaf-mould and sand. Use small pots, as for pelar

by cuttings of the roots in autumn, may now be transferred to pots of loam and leaf-mould; and as the plants grow, they are to be constantly shifted, till they come into pots, wherein they will bloom profusely. If placed in the borders, they will require no peculiar treatment. Sow in a pot the seeds of this variety of campanula (seedlings frequently produce the finest plants; they require profuse watering); also the seeds of the pansy or heart's-ease, to procure varieties. Propagate by cuttings, as directed for geraniums, or by single eyes, the Erythrina crysta Galli, and laurifolia. In propagation pots, using the same soil, all the salvias, verbenas, rockets, double wall-flowers, and every species of fuchsia that has produced young wood. Try every plant by cuttings placed in ounce phials, three parts filled with rain-water. Bud China, noisette, and moss-roses, on dog-rose stocks. Divide the roots of dahlias, either retaining one single tuber with a sprouting eye, or twist out very cautiously a single shoot, so as to detach its base and the latent bud it contains, planting it in the smallest pot of sand and leaf-mould; a gentle hotbed will facilitate the protrusion of roots.

May-This is the season to stock the flower-garden with those plants which have been prepared during autumn, winter, and spring; and therefore transfer, from the propagation pots, annuals raised in them, by lifting the whole mass, and depositing it in a spot prepared in the border: thus trouble and loss of time are obviated. Sow a few annual seeds in the open ground for succession. Plant the parterres with groups of fuchsias, calceolaria, petunia, Neapolitan violet, verbena; and at the latter end, form masses of the scarlet and variegated gerania, and many less-prized but beautiful fancy varieties; such are, Diomede, conspicuum, succulentum speciosum, Moore's victory, Dennis's rival, &c. &c. Propagate, by cuttings, the China roses of every kind; plant them two joints deep, in a shady situation; also calceolareas of the shrubby kind, Peruvian heliotrope, &c. by division of the roots, Neapolitan violet, placing them in beds of manured loam, twelve inches apart; the heart's ease of the best varieties, in shady situations; the soil, rich loam and leaf-mould. These favourite prize-flowers require a frequent renewal of soil; they dwindle if retained in one site, and degenerate to the condition of the poor weak flowers of former years. Propagate, by slips, lychnis, double rocket, and wall-flower; thin out the superabundant shoot of asters, antirrhinums, penstemons, phlox, and indeed of every luxuriant herbaceous plant.

June.-Propagate, as during the last month, and plant young side-shoots of the best lobelias, in shady borders, under a hand-glass. The pipings of pinks, placed in sandy earth, are to be closely covered in the same way, till completely rooted. Salpiglossis succeeds best in the open air; the plants should be now turned out of pots, and set in a dry border. Green-house plants may now be arranged in a north aspect; the pots to stand on a deep stratum of coal-ashes. Azaleas, acacia armata, and some such plants, are greatly improved by being turned out of pots, and planted with entire balls in an open peat-border.

July-Bud roses on wild stocks. A pretty effect is produced by inserting one or two buds of the deep-red China in the common China rose. The former is strengthened in its habit, and the different tints of the two roses are very pleasing. Propagate, by cuttings, the Chinese azaleas, half-shrubby calceolarias, linums, pelargoniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and other exotic shrubs. Layer carnations in sandy earth, with a little chalk; peg them near the incision with hooks of fernleaves. Sow the seed of mignionette in small pots, for winter; also, annual flower seeds for bloom in September.

August-Bud, as before, but not the China rose. Plant seedling herbaceous plants, cyclamens of every kind, offset bulbs to gain strength; repot auriculas, removing the suckers, and detach the black ends of old roots with the finger and thumb. Sow the seeds of all the annuals mentioned under that head in a previous

page. Use gentle heat; add any other favourites, as madia elegans, mimulus, the white night-flowering petunia, tall and dwarf larkspurs. Sow the seed of the best pansies. Take cuttings of all the fine pelargoniums that are out of flower early in the month; also of cal ceolarias, shrubby and half shrubby; of antirrhinuta caryophylloides, penstemon gentianoides, &c. ; these require no heat, but should be placed in a cold frame. September-Plant the crocus and some other bulbs. Transplant herbaceous perennials and pinks to permanent beds, if perfectly rooted. Propagate, by cuttings, China roses in the open borders; and by slips petonias, heliotrope, salvias, gerania, calceolaria, &c. ; they require only a hand-glass and light soil. Sow auricua seed in pans in the green-house; also Clarkia, collinsia, chelone, and other annuals, to be preserved in pots all! winter. If the pyramidal campanula be out of flower, take up one of the finest roots, blue and white; break it to pieces, and half filling a large pot with loam, place the pieces on the earth; fill the pot with loam, and keep it merely protected from frost all winter. Raise every geranium or other green-house plant now in open ground, and repot them in soil suitable to each. Cut back to low buds, well situated, the horse-shoe geranium, and place all the plants under glass, to recover from the removal; make cuttings of the best ampe tated shoots of geranium. Gradually diminish the watering of all green-house plants.

October.-Plant towards the end, bulbs of hyacinth, narcissus, and tulips, the common jonquil, and daffodi, and anemone roots, &c.; also shrubs of every description, though evergreens generally succeed in spring cuttings, as before, if not completed. Hyacinths in pos filled with a compost of light loam, sand, and vegetable earth, should be plunged to the rims in ashes, or hig earth, under the glass of a cold frame; and when the plants begin to grow, the pots should be raised, cleaned, and placed in the green-house. Green-house planta must now be taken in, and be gradually inured t winter treatment, by the free admission of air and abatement of water. Take up the Persian cyclames, and pot it in loam, sand, and leaf-mould. There is a geranium which merits much attention; it is called the " scarlet globe, and appears to be a seedling variety of Pelargonium zonale: cuttings of it strike freely in the open border early in summer; the handsomest of them taken up in September, and carefully potted in por loamy soil, will flower throughout October and Nove ber, placed in the window of a south room: the flowerhead assumes the figure of a Guelder rose.

November.-Bulbs; plant all, employing much saf about and above the bulbs. Protect fuchsias, if frst" threaten. Screened leaves form the best substance to be placed as mulch. Dahlias should be digged up airy and dry weather, when quite dry and clean; pre serve the tubers in dry sand; damp is the worst enemy of the dahlia.

December.-Protect beds of tulips, hyacinths, and other choice bulbs or roots, with a layer of saw-dod mixed with sand, or with ashes. Saw-dust alone has been found the most effectual protector to the roots of potted plants in frames, the pots being plunged in d to the rims. If dry weather permit, lightly fork the surface of plots and borders; but at any rate, if it be frosty, scatter some light manures around the stems of shrubs and the more tender plants; it will tend enrich the ground at the first spring regulatin Secure begonias and other plants which die dow to the mould, by placing the pots in a temperate d cellar.

Our recollection has been much assisted by referring to the excellent calendar at the end of Mr Mantes treatise on Floriculture, published in "Baxter's Librar of Agriculture and Horticultural Knowledge," which we should be happy to recommend to every admirer of rural economy.

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height around it, for a couple of feet or so, in the form | after its polliniferous or male parent; and that, at the of a little hillock. Trees of larger size may be rather same time, it will acquire some of the constitutior. more elevated. This applies to soils of the ordinary peculiarities of its mother."" description; but in damp soils, the elevation should be still greater. When trees are set in a pit, which should always be a third larger in diameter than that of the extent of the roots, so that they may be all spread out to their full extent, without being doubled or turned round, they should be spread as regularly as possible, and the bottom should be made perfectly level; by this means, the roots will have a horizontal direction given to them, which they will afterwards maintain. The intention of this arrangement is to induce them to extend themselves near the surface, and to prevent their extending downwards into a bad or cold subsoil."

Propagation-Grafting.

Fruit trees may be propagated by seeds, layers, cuttings, budding, suckers, or grafting. By any of these methods, a material object of the culturist is to improve, or at least not deteriorate, the quality of the plant. In a state of nature, every fruit is inferior to what it will become by cultivation. This disposition to improve is taken advantage of by gardeners; and by attending to various circumstances in the economy of any individual plant, they are able to produce and propagate the best varieties. The principal means employed is to select such varieties as have attained a certain degree of perfection, and then crossing two of the most nearly allied, in order to produce an intermediate variety. The discovery of the sexuality of plants, as established by Linnæus, has rendered this a comparatively simple operation to skilled gardeners. The following is a short exposition of the method given by Mr M'Intosh, who quotes from other authorities:

Illustrating these principles by a reference to the propagation of varieties of apple trees from seeds, Mr M'Intosh observes, that “the kinds of apples that would be advantageous to cross by artificial impr nation appear to be those which have a great many qualities in common, and some different qualities. T it would be proper to cross the Golden pippin w other pippins, and even with some rennets, but it wo be improper to cross it with codlins or the larger grow ing kinds. The numerous varieties of pippins raised ty Knight and others, have been obtained by the abov rule. It is no doubt true that a small apple-say, f example, the Golden pippin-crossed with a much larg sort, will produce a variety sufficiently distinct from t other; but it is almost equally certain that this De variety will be of inferior quality to either; the lities of both parents,' as Mr Loudon has very just y observed,' of so very opposite natures being, as it wer rudely jumbled together in the offspring.""

Grafting-its Theory.

Grafting, which is a practice of great antiquity the union of two plants in a growing state, through medium of the circulating juices. It is now a w known fact in surgery, that if a piece of a finger whi has been accidentally chopped off be immediately plied to the stump whence it was severed, and ** wound properly bandaged, it will adhere and becz part of the living member as formerly. This, then, grafting in the animal economy, and it is analogera · the grafting of one vegetable on another. The dissimilarity is, that the piece of finger is restored to to own stump, whereas the vegetable union is between t distinct trees. But this is a point of no consequere for it is probable that if two persons, in equally g health, were to have a finger chopped off at the sa time, the pieces might respectively be changed, a each person might have on his hand the finger of neighbour.

"The means used in the process of artificially fecundating the stigma or female parts of the blossom of one flower with the pollen or male dust of another, have been beautifully described and explained by Knight and others. That eminent pomologist has obtained thousands of apple trees from seeds, many of which are of first-rate quality, by cutting out the stamens of the blossoms to be impregnated before their own pollen was Gardeners assign five reasons for grafting:-1. T ripe enough for the purpose, and afterwards, when the perpetuation of varieties of fruit, which could not stigma was mature, by introducing the pollen of the insured by sowing seed: 2. Increasing, with consi. other parent, either by shaking the pollen of it over the able rapidity, the number of trees of any desired st flower containing the stigma only, by introducing the 3. Accelerating the fructification of trees which are flower when deprived of its petals or coloured leaves, tardy in producing their fruit: 4. Improving the q or by transferring the pollen upon the point of a camel-lities of fruits: and 5. Changing the sorts of frui hair pencil from the one flower to the other. By these means he prevented the possibility of the natural fecundation of the blossom within itself, and thus greatly increased the chances of obtaining intermediate varieties by making use of two distinct parents.

This process is called cross-impregnation, and is in its nature highly curious. Dr Lindley describes the action as follows:- Pollen (the male dust) consists of extremely minute hollow balls, or bodies; their cavity is filled with fluid, in which swim particles of a figure varying from spherical to oblong, and having apparently spontaneous motion. The stigma (the female organ) is composed of very lax tissue, the intercellular passages of which have a greater diameter than the moving particles of the pollen. When a grain of pollen comes in contact with the stigma, it bursts, and discharges its contents among the lax tissue upon which it has fallen. The moving particles descend through the tissue of the style, until one or two find their way, by routes specially destined by nature for their service, into a little opening in the integument of the ovulum or young seed. Once deposited there, the particle swells, increases gradually in size, separates the radicle and cotyledons, and finally becomes the embryo that which is to give birth, when the seed is sown, to a new individual. Such being the mode in the pollen influences the stigma, and subseseed, a practical consequence of great imcessarily follows, namely, that in all cases tilisation, the new variety will take chiefly

one tree, and renewing its productiveness.

When a tree becomes old, but has still healthy and vigorous roots, and it is thought advisable to renew of improve its fruitful qualities, it is cut off across the lower part of the stem, and forms the stock on wha scions are ingrafted, which scions taking root, beca in time the fruit-bearing branches of the tree. A general principle, the sorts to be united require to considerably alike as respects disposition of wely fibre and sap and pulp vessels, so that no decided terruption may take place in the ascent or descent the juices. Yet, to effect any improvement in fructib cation, there must be a certain difference between varieties. For example, the wild apple tree, w bears only crabs, too sour to be eaten, forms one of best stocks on which a graft can be made; and for :: reason alone, it is grown by nurserymen from se The notice of this remarkable fact leads to a consid tion of what are the radical principles on which provement is effected by grafting. On this intres subject we offer, in the first place, the explanations Dr Lindley:-" In proportion as the scion and st approach each other closely in constitution, the effect is produced by the latter; and, on the contrar in proportion to the constitutional difference betwe the stock and the scion, is the effect of the former portant. Thus, when pears are grafted or budded the wild species, apples upon crabs, plums upon p and peaches upon peaches or almonds, the scion is, regard to fertility, exactly in the same state as if it

the management of a plantation, will be surprised and perplexed at the anomalies which continually present themselves; it will then be self-evident that gardening cannot, in its routine, be learned from books; that one tree assumes a certain mode of growth; another produces developments in an order which has not been foreseen or contemplated; another forms its fruitful spurs spontaneously, without solicitation or the adoption of means; while a fourth, in despite of the most rigid foreshortening, continues for years to yield nothing but growing shoots. We have seen numbers of spur trees purchased at the same period and treated upon the same principles, every one of which evinced a habit or constitution to a greater or less extent peculiar to itself; thus it is with trees as with the human genus-to be in any degree known, they must be individually and diligently observed and studied. This experimental fact being admitted, we may safely adduce the practice of pruning recommended by Mr George Lindley for dwarf standards, in his "Guide to the Orchard," &c. (1831.) He observes, that "dwarfs on crabstocks are much more adapted for large and ponderous fruit than standards, as they not only produce larger fruit but are less likely to be blown down by high winds. Trees for this purpose should have their branches of an equal strength those which have been grafted one year, or what are termed by nurserymen maiden plants, are the best; they should not be cut down when planted, but should stand a year, and then be headed down to the length of four or six inches, according to their strength; these will produce three or four shoots from each cut-down branch, which will be sufficient to form ahead. At the end of the second year, two or three of the best placed of these from each branch should be selected, and shortened back to nine, twelve, or fifteen inches each, according to their strength, taking care to keep the head perfectly balanced (if the expression may be allowed), so that one side shall not be higher or more numerous in its branches than the other, and all must She kept as near as may be at an equal distance from each other. If this regularity in forming the head be attended to and effected at first, there will be no diffienity in keeping it so afterwards, by observing either to prune that bud immediately on the inside next to the centre of the tree, or that immediately on the outside. By this means, viewing it from the centre, the branches will be produced in a perpendicular line from the eye; whereas, if pruned to a bud on the right or left side of the branch, the young shoot will be produced in the same direction, so that if the branches formed round a circle be not thus pruned to the eyes on the right sucressively, or the left successively, a very material difference will be found, and the regularity of the tree will be destroyed in one single year's pruning."

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What is here said refers only to the leading shoots which form the figure of the tree; others-side shoots (laterals) are developed, and these require constant regulation. In pruning these laterals or supernumeraries, they should be cut down to within an inch of the bottom, which will generally cause the surrounding eyes to form natural blossom spurs ; but where the tree is in a vigorous state of growth, branches will probably be produced instead of spurs; if so, they must all be cut out close, except one, which must be shortened as before. In all winter prunings, care must be taken to keep the spurs short and close, none of which should at any time exceed three inches; cutting but clean all the blank spurs, which have produced fruit the previous summer, to the next perfect bud

below."

It would perhaps be impossible for any writer to improve upon these directions generally; they comprise all the essentials for producing a balanced dwarf standard, that is, a tree low in stature, furnished with ten or twelve regular main branches, proceeding at a short distance from one central stem, each branch garnished from base to summit with fruitful spurs. But experience has instructed us to caution a pruner not to expect too much, but to watch the figure which his tree

affects, and the course of its supernumerary shoots. If it evince a decided tendency to form short spurs naturally at a very early period, he may prune short, as Lindley directs; but if its habits be so luxuriant as to produce wood-shoots after each pruning, it will be wise to defer the summer cutting of the spring shoots till the middle of July, instead of performing it at or before midsummer; and then either to snap the shoots or to cut them to a bud situated at least five inches from their base. This pruning, late as is the season, will generally cause each shoot to break its leading eye; in August, therefore, this new shoot is to be checked by nipping off its point; and finally, in September the spring shoot is again to be cut at the eye, below the one at which it was first pruned in July. In this way the vigour of the tree will be moderated, and several of the lower buds will probably enlarge, while the leading bud only expands into a growing shoot. If these hints be understood and acted upon, a young pruner will experimentally be taught to apply them, and thereby acquire the tact to discover the constitution of his trees individually, and to coax them into a condition of maturity. At the winter regulation, when the buds begin to swell, it will be easy to discern the fruitful eyes; and where any of these are discerned, the shoot projecting beyond them must be entirely amputated; and this may be done with safety, for spurs, when once fully formed, rarely break into barren shoots, though one of the eyes may do so.

Wall-Training.

The circumstance of apple trees producing fruit only on the outer parts, which are freely exposed to the sun and air, has led to numerous contrivances for exposing the inner as well as the outer stems. One method, as is well known, is the training of the tree in a flat shape against a wall-a plan also advantageous for enjoying the heat, which the wall radiates as a reflector against the branches. A difference of opinion exists as to the comparative merits of training the main stem in a serpentine or in a straight upright direction, and also whether the branches should be led perfectly horizontal or with an upward slope. If the height of wall permit, the upright stem and fan shape, as represented in fig. 3,

Fig. 3.

seems the most advantageous and certainly the least troublesome plan, and we would recommend unprofessional gardeners to attempt no other. Where the wall is low, the branches should proceed more horizontally; and the top being restrained by pruning, these lateral stems will gain greater vigour. In either case, the branches, great and small, will require to be held in their appointed situations on the wall by stripes of list and nails. The nailing should not be so tight as to prevent expansion in growth, or be otherwise injurious. Iron nails rust and disfigure the wall, therefore nails made of zinc are preferable. When a branch at any time becomes loose, it ought immediately to be refixed.

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