son, who produced what he styled giant asparagus about the year 1830. We give his own concise directions in the following quotation :-" If your ground be stiff and unpleasant to work, get some milder earth to mix with it, and a very large cart-load of rotten dung to about every ten square feet; trench it two spit deep, and loosen the bottom; let the dung and earth be well mixed together. When your land is fit for planting, draw your drills six inches deep and sixteen inches from the first row to the second; that will form a bed; and ten inches between each plant in the row. Do not raise your beds till they have been planted one year; then put on about four inches of mould out of the alleys, and cut till the 10th of May. If you keep them well manured, they will last twenty years; but never cut later than the 4th of June. Let them be eight feet in the clear from bed to bed, so that you may crop between, and Juse no land."

|

dunghill is in a condition to be soon converted to food; therefore we say it approaches pretty nearly to the state of humus. This surface-manuring, which will generally take place about the end of October, will tend greatly to protect the young plants, and impart a stimu lating principle to the ground; so that in early spring the plants will be strongly excited, and rise through the remaining manure in perfect safety. The trench manuring also, before alluded to, will come in aid of the top-dressing. We have cut excellent " grass" within three full years of the sowing, and our two large beds, now existing, were prepared from seed sown in 1831. These annual eurichments, be it observed, might be persisted in with every bed that is used for cutting; but for the beds devoted to raising plants for forcing, it will suffice to make the ground thoroughly rich at the time of trenching; because the plants, when three or four years old, will be removed to the forcing deHere we find the sum of all that constitutes aspara-partment; yet a coating of half-decayed leaves or gus planting; but, after all, persons must be content manure, after the stalks are cleared off, will not be lost, with such plants as the constitution of their ground will as the stronger the plants, the more remunerative will produce; for this very sort, which in the rich water-be the produce. deposited grounds (alluvial) about the Thames, produced shoots an inch in diameter, would and did dwindle in the loams of ordinary gardens to less than half that size. Nevertheless, if the beds be narrow, thoroughly manured at first, remote from each other; if, also, about February of the first year after planting, a trench eighteen inches deep, and a foot wide, be formed on each side of the narrow bed, and twelve inches distant from the plants, and be half filled with the best rotten dung, incorporated with an equal quantity of the earth dug out, a most excellent asparagus will be obtained speedily, and the quality will not deteriorate. This enrichment may be occasionally renewed, but these Auxiliary trenches are to be made at an increased distance each time, so as to avoid cutting and mutilating the roots, which extend very rapidly. As this vegetable will no doubt be sold by the cottager, too much pains cannot be bestowed in order to obtain an early supply of the very finest quality.

When once asparagus is in full bearing, if the cuttings be judiciously made, that is, by taking only the strong shoots, always leaving one or two of medium strength to each crown, and duly applying manure, a bed may keep in high condition for twenty years. But it must not be forgotten that, if every shoot be taken off a crown, to the end of a long season, that root will be destroyed. To prevent the crowns from being too deeply buried, in consequence of the autumnal dressings, it is customary to fork the beds late in March, digging them carefully, or rather loosening the surface with a fork of three prongs, and raking the rough earth into the alleys; this operation also gives freedom to the plant by opening the top soil.

With respect to forcing, it is very easy with narrow distant beds to bring the plants somewhat more forward in the spring, by digging trenches eighteen inches wide, or wider, and above a foot deep, and filling them with warm stable-dung, blended with a third part of forest-tree leaves, raising the dung to six inches above the surface level. The gentle warmth communicated will stimulate vegetation, and it would be assisted by covering the beds with hoops and mats, or with boards set up ridgeways, in the event of sharp frosty nights. Successional forcing beds are prepared as soon as the cutting of the earlier begins to decline, or even when it is at its height.

The seed of asparagus may be purchased, but it is yielded abundantly by every good bed, and should be gathered before it falls off, and kept in the berry till spring. We will presume the object to be double-first, to raise bearing beds, and second, to raise a stock of young plants for forcing. In the former case, the ground is to be in readiness for narrow beds, eight leet asunder; in the latter, wide beds, like those direeted for artichokes, should be made. Towards the THE CUCUMBER.-This juicy vegetable is tender, and latter end of March, rub out the seed, and place the requires a fine climate and extremely rich soil. It is Ine along the course of the bed; strike two drills with usually grown over a heap of old horse-dung, on a the hoe at the distances directed by Grayson, two inches spot of ground open to the south, and large enough deep or in the broad beds, make similar drills nine to permit a two or three-light frame to rest upon inches asunder; and in both scatter the seeds pretty it. Dig out the soil a foot in depth, and lay it on thickly, we will say half an inch apart; cover with fine one side, or around the trench. If this soil be a Earth, and pat it to an even surface with the spade. light friable loam, incorporate it, a month before it is Watch the coming up of the plants, and be prepared to be used, with one third part of leaf or vegetable earth to dust them with air-slaked lime, if slugs threaten and old decayed dung, and again dig this mixed earth them. When they shall have fairly formed rows of two or three times. But if the soil produced from four young seedlings six inches high, thin out the narrow or five year-old couch grass roots, harrowed from a beds first to four inches apart, and again to nine inches. field of sound loam, can be procured, it is the best aliThe seed rows for forcing, thin first to three, and after-ment for the cucumber. The soil should be ready in wards to five inches, and then leave both to grow, observing to use the Dutch or thrust hoe repeatedly, to keep down weeds.

In future treatment, suffer the stems to become yellow, then cut them down at two inches above the soil; clear the surface with hoe and rake, and lay on the beds eight inches of decayed leaves. Such manure is the nearest approach to that substance which it is how fashionable to call humus; this word is the Latin for the ground, and the meaning of it, if it have any, this: all good ground contains substances which the iving principle of the plant converts to sap; earths pure cannot be so converted, but manure, or decayed vegetable and animal remains, when mixed up with earth, can. After a time, ground so prepared contains what is called humus, and leaves or dung from an old |

April, and the work of planting begun in the first week
of May, by filling the excavation with stable manure to
the height of six inches above the surface-level of the
unmoved earth, and placing on it the frame and lights.
In a week the manure will have settled, and is then to
be covered with a six-inch layer of the couch mould
or other soil, and a hill of dryish earth raised a few
inches higher under each light, in which eight or ten
seeds of any approved variety may be sown.
ferred, the seeds may be prepared by previous sowing
in pots in a slight hot-bed, and the plants so raised can
be transferred to the hills. But as the plan now re-
commended is not one of forcing, it is safer to begin
on the spot, by sowing seed, and covering the bed with
the lights, and those with mats or boards every night.
As the plants rise, observe them carefully, and pick out

If pre

the central buds when the true leaves have become strong. Persons differ much in opinion at this stage concerning the practice of stopping the shoots. M. Phael, gardener to Lord Liverpool at Addiscombe, Surrey, pointed out the true theory and results of stopping, as may be perceived by the following abbreviated extract from his work on the cucumber. He first directs to stop (nip back) the young seedlings at their second joint, then "When the plants shoot forth after a second stopping above the second joint of the laterals, produced by the first, they seldom miss to show fruit at every joint and also a tendril, and between this tendril and the showing fruit, there may be clearly seen the rudiment of another shoot. This shoot is then in embryo, but if developed, it becomes a fruitful lateral. And when the leading shoot has extended itself fairly past the showing fruit, then, with the finger and thumb pinch it and the tendril off just before the showing fruit, being careful that, in pinching off the tendril and the shoot, the showing fruit be not injured. This stopping of the leading shoot stops the juices of the plant, and enables the next shoot-the rudiment above mentioned -to push vigorously, and the fruit thereby also receives benefit.

The remarks will avail equally with the melon-plant as with the cucumber; and when the few remarks which follow on forcing shall be considered, nothing farther need be said of the cultivation of melons.

Whether cucumber and melon plants have been raised separately in pots, or from seed sown in the frame, they ought to be progressing early in June, and should be stopped occasionally, till fruit begin to show itself. The soil must never be wet, but always retained in a free and rather moist condition, water being kept in the frame for the express purpose. No water ought to be poured against the stems-it should be applied to the soil round the slope of the hills only. Air ought to be admitted in all warm days, by tilting the back of the lights till three o'clock, but after that hour the frame should be kept closed. When fruit is visible, stopping, according to M. Phael's direction, should be persevered in, and its fertilising effects will soon be apparent. Cover with mats, and boards over them, at sunset. Every decayed leaf and weak shoot should be removed as soon as perceived.

In order to raise and fruit cucumbers or melons before midsummer, forcing must be employed. The hot beds of the best regulated gardens are conducted without masses of manure under the roots; heat is excited by an atmosphere of warm air; thus injury from internal rank vapour is avoided, and manure is economised. By this method cucumbers and melons can be produced during the spring and summer months with certainty and precision. In the cultivation of both these plants, equability of heat is important; and nothing would be more likely to secure this, and also to ward off sudden accession of cold, than to case the frame with an inner lining of thin boards, leaving a space of an inch or two between them, to be filled with some imperfectly conducting substance, such as powdered charcoal or very dry deal saw-dust, taking care to secure it from the ingress of water. The expense would be trifling, and the security afforded very great.

CELERIAC, or turnip-rooted celery, is raised and nursed the same as celery; but in planting out, the ground is dug and enriched, not trenched, and the plants are set by the dibble or garden trowel along the course of shallow drills drawn by the hoe, six inches apart, watering them freely. As the growth advances, bring earth to the plants, by which the knobby roots will be bleached, and made delicate and tender. When these are the size of small turnips, they are fit for the table. Celeriac is never eaten raw; it is boiled, and served up with melted butter. The seeds of both the species ely in the summer of the second year, and lants are obtained from self-sown seeds, serve as excellent substitutes should the 's fail.

anything of the artificial growth of this species
vegetable, both on account of the difficulty which unt
fessional gardeners labour under respecting the r
sorts, and the complex methods which require t
employed for bringing forward crops.
The great
number of mushrooms brought to market are of
tural growth on old rich pastures; and it would appe
that, without providing a similar kind of soil fu..
decaying matter, the plants cannot be raised. I
method of procedure is very peculiar. The mushroo
are not sown in the form of seeds, for they have
observable seeds, but by spawn, or portions of th
substance, mingled in the prepared soil. Mr Rogers
in his work, The Vegetable Cultivator, to which w
would refer for much useful information on kite
gardening, describes the process of mushroom cultu
which he says is that approved of by the Horticultur
Society. We extract a few passages for the sake
general information.

"In June or July take any quantity of fresh h
droppings (the more dry and high fed the better
mixed with short litter, one third of cow's dung, and a
good portion of mould of a loamy nature; cement ta
well together, and mash the whole into a thin comp
and spread it on the floor of an open shed, to rema
till it becomes firm enough to be formed into
square bricks; which done, set them on an edge, a
frequently turn them till half dry; then with a di
make two or three holes in each brick, and insert a
each hole a piece of good old spawn, about the size ca
common walnut. The bricks should then be left t
they are dry. This being completed, level the suri. *
of a piece of ground, under cover, three feet wide, and
of sufficient length to receive the bricks, on which a
a bottom of dry horse-dung, six inches thick; tiết
form a pile, by placing the bricks in rows one t
another, with the spawn side uppermost, till the pas
three feet high; next cover it with a small portion
warm horse-dung, sufficient in quantity to diffuse a
gentle glow of heat through the whole. When the
spawn has spread itself through every part of th
bricks, the process is ended, and the bricks may
be laid up in a dry place for use.

Mushroom spawn, made according to this direct will preserve its vegetative power many years, if w dried before it is laid up; but if moist, it will grow and exhaust itself. The next subject to be treated is the preparation of the dung for the bed; and for t purpose none answers so well as that of the horse, wh taken fresh from the stable; the more droppings » the better.

About Michaelmas is the general season for maki
mushroom beds (though this may be done all the year
round). A quantity of the dung mentioned should
collected, and thrown together in a heap, to fermer
and acquire heat; and as this heat generally proves t
violent at first, it should, previously to making the be
be reduced to a proper temperature by frequently turn
ing it in the course of a fortnight or three weeks;
whee
time it will most likely require for all the parts to 2%
into an even state of fermentation. During the abo
time, should it be showery weather, the heat will re
quire some sort of temporary protection, by covering
with litter or such like, as too much wet would
deaden its fermenting quality. The like caution shoc
be attended to in making the bed, and after finishing
As soon as it is observed that the fiery heat and raz
steam of the dung are gone off, a dry and sheltered
spot of ground should be chosen on which to make the
bed. The place being determined on, a space should be
marked out five feet broad, and the length (running
north and south) should be according to the quantity
mushrooms likely to be required. If for a moderate
family, a bed twelve or fourteen feet long will be found
(if it takes well) to produce a good supply of mushrooms
for some months, provided proper attention be paid to
the covering.

We have great hesitation in saying should be thrown out, about six inches deep; the med
On the space marked for making the bed a trench

nay be laid regularly at the side, and if good, it will do rearthing the bed hereafter; otherwise, if brought from a distance, that of a more loamy than a sandy nature will be best. Either in the trench, or if upon the surface, there should be laid about four inches of good dung, not too short, for forming the bottom of the Sed; then lay on the prepared dung a few inches thick regularly over the surface, beating it as regularly down with the fork; continue thus, gradually drawing in the des to the height of five feet, until it narrows to the top like the ridge of a house. In that state it may reain for ten days or a fortnight, during which time the rest should be examined towards the middle of the bed, by thrusting some small sharp sticks down in three or four places; and when found of a gentle heat (not t), the bed may be spawned; for which purpose the pawn bricks should be broken regularly into pieces hout an inch and a half or two inches square, beginng within six inches of the bottom of the bed, and in mes about eight inches apart; the same distance will also do for the pieces of spawn, which, in a dung ridge, best put in by one hand, raising the dung up a few tches, whilst with the other the spawn can be laid in and covered at the same time. After spawning the ed, if it is found to be in that regular state of heat before mentioned, it may be earthed. After the surface is levelled with the back of the spade, there should be i on two inches of mould-that out of the trench, if try and good, will do; otherwise, if to be brought, and choice made, that of a kindly loam is to be preferred. After having been laid on, it is to be beaten closely toother, and when the whole is finished, the bed must be xvered about a foot thick with good oat-straw, over which should be laid mats, for the double purpose of keeping the bed dry and of securing the covering from being blown off. In the course of two or three days the bed should be examined, and if it is considered that the heat is likely to increase, the covering must be diBerished for a few days, which is better than taking it entirely off. In about a month or five weeks (but frequently within the former time, if the bed is in a high state of cultivation) mushrooms will most likely make appearance, and in the course of eight-and-forty burs afterwards they will have grown to a sufficient ze for use; in which case the author recommends hat, instead of cutting them off close to the ground, they be drawn out with a gentle twist, filling up the cavity with a little fine mould, gently pressed in level ith the bed."

their

As mushrooms may be said to cost no more than a attle trouble, manure, and space for growth, at what an considerable cost might not this excellent vegetable abundantly procured! No product of the garden has hitherto been less attended to, and few afford so high relish, either in their substantial form or as ketchup. NASTURTIUM, or Indian cress, is a native of South America, but is not tender: it is used occasionally that is, the green seed-vessels are) as a pickle. These, when they ripen, separate, and drop on the ground, where they remain torpid till the spring. Thus the Iant sows itself, and so do most of the garden ornamental varieties. It therefore requires no minute directions; and any one who once possesses a plant, can ltiply it by sowing seed in any way or place which ay suit his taste.

ground around the main stem from the exhausting heat of the sun. When once planted, it requires no trouble, but keeps growing till the plant runs up to seed. To give additional size to the stems, cut off the seed stalk. Suckers taken from known and approved plants succeed well, but the plant can easily be raised from seed. Each plant requires considerable space. In taking away the stalks for use, do not cut them, but wrench them from the main stock, so as to take them out by the socket. The earliest sorts in repute are Buck's scarlet, and the new Tobolsk, or yellow stalked. Radford's scarlet Goliah is later, but remains in season till August; it surpasses for delicacy, fullness of flavour, and extreme productiveness, all its competitors. Rhubarb may be forced by very simple means. A common method is to cover the plant in the early part of the year with a box, to which air is admitted, and covered with a little stable-manure. This blanches, as well as brings forward the stalks; but that is an advantage, as it renders the vegetable more tender and delicate in flavour. Some bring forward the plants in pots in darkened forcing-houses, and, for this purpose, plants two years old are most suitable. Watering copiously is necessary in the early stages of growth, whether in the open air or under boxes. As rhubarb forms a valuable vegetable for tarts in spring, before gooseberries are ready, it would not be misspent time or trouble for a cottager to attempt forcing by the simple means above recommended.

SEA-KALE. This is a perennial vegetable, deriving its name from being found growing in a wild state on the sandy downs which border the southern coasts of England. The method of garden culture is as follows:Beds or spaces for single rows should be trenched and prepared as for asparagus; and at any dry period of March, when the surface earth will work freely, one or more drills should be drawn by the line, two inches deep, and the seeds scattered along the drill; or, the line being strained tight, five or six seeds should be inserted in rings two inches deep, made at the distance of two feet apart. The seeds are then covered with earth, and when the plants become strong, they are to be thinned of supernumeraries, leaving one or two of the strongest remaining eighteen inches or two feet asunder every way. If the plants be weak, it will be prudent to retain double the number. During the first season, nothing more will be required than to keep the bed or row free of weeds. In the following spring, if the plants stand nearer to each other than eighteen inches, the surplus number should be carefully raised, and transferred to another prepared space, planting the crowns of the roots two inches below the surface. Eighteen inches to two feet, according to the strength of the plants, may be the regular distances at which they are to remain. The first bed, if pots be placed over the crowns, will yield a moderate supply of blanched kale during April or May of the second spring.

Sea-kale may be forced at various periods, commencing with November, by inverting large pots over the plants, and covering those with warm dung, or dung and leaves, to excite and maintain a heat in the pot and soil of about 55 degrees. Sea-kale, like other plants, subjected to heat, can be, as it were, educated and made to conform to induced habits. Thus, at first, it seems to remain long torpid, even though the heat be PARSLEY.-Several species and varieties of parsley considerable; but after a second season, provided the re in cultivation; these are the plain and curled gardener be himself regular, the plants will yield to the paved, and the common and the broad-leaved, or Ham-stimulant almost to a day, though it be comparatively burg parsley. Preference ought to be given to the mild; hence sea-kale is at command from December curled-leaved parsley. This vegetable is one of the to March by heat, and then the succession can be mainfast easily cultivated, and it will long keep the ground tained during April and part of May by the cold beds with little trouble. It is sown in drills in any spare or rows. As soon as the kale is cut from one or more tches of border, and arrives at maturity the next roots, a sharp spade should be thrust through it, so as ason. When it has attained this state, sprigs may be to cut the plant level with the surface. aken from it when required. When it becomes rank, may be rooted out, and fresh parsley sown. RHUBARB This is a large vegetable, grown for the ake of its firm leaf stalks. The leaves are very road and spreading, to catch moisture, and shelter the

SPINACH is an annual, of which there are many varieties. The following are the principal kinds :-1. The round-leaved, smooth-seeded, which is sown chiefly for spring and summer crops; 2. The triangular-leaved, prickly-seeded, or winter spinach-it is sown in Au

fect summer garb, with all things advancing in th early and mid-stages of growth. June-Sow kid. beans, runners, &c.; water growing plants, if require hoe potatoes, cabbages, and peas; and thin out be July.-Sow broccoli for the last time; also turn; lettuces, &c.; and prepare all the unoccupied plots ground for autumn and winter crops.

gust, stands the winter, and continues in full bearing | The garden is now supposed to have assumed its perduring spring and till midsummer; 3. The New Zealand spinach, a plant very different from the true spinach, and now neglected; 4. The white beet spinach, cultivated only for the leaves. The round-leaved should be sown about the end of January, and again in February and March, for successive spring and summer crops. The triangular-leaved is to be sown at the end of July or first week of August, and the leaves come into use at the beginning of winter; the plants require thinning and hoeing. The outer leaves only are to be taken during winter and spring, the inner leaves forming in their turn an ample succession. The seed or flower stalks will become apparent in the early part of the summer, and some of the best plants, male and female (for spinach produces both separately), should be left to perfect the seeds.

VEGETABLE MARROW is a species of gourd (cucurbita) cultivated extensively of late years. It was brought originally from Persia, and was particularly noticed by Mr Sabine, in the Horticultural Transactions, vol. ii., where he described the best culinary variety as bearing a "fruit of uniform pale-yellow or light-sulphur colour, when full grown, about nine inches in length, four inches in diameter, of an elliptic shape, the surface being rendered slightly uneven by irregular longitudinal ribs, the terminations of which uniting, form a projecting apex at the end of the fruit, which is very unusual in this tribe." There are other varieties which produce fruit that weighs twenty or thirty pounds, oblong in figure, and quite green during growth; this is coarse in flavour, and in no respect equal to the small cream-coloured variety.

Sow in pots of any light soil early in April, treating the plants exactly as cucumbers under glass. About the middle of May, transfer them to a bed of rich earth over a trench filled with warm stable dung. Protect the plants by a hand-glass or frame, which, if the shoots are to run on the ground, should be raised by four or more bricks, giving air freely. When danger of frost ceases, remove the light or frame.

We have seen the best plants nailed and secured to a wall, as trees usually are. They bear profusely in summer and autumn, and are not subject to be injured by damp. The seeds are sown on the spot at the end of May, and one strong plant remains, being stopped once or twice at the tips of the advancing shoots, of which six are enough for each plant. It would be wise to place a large spare light or two sloping in front till midsummer, and again early in September. Glass diminishes the direct solar power to the extent of from 8 to 12 degrees, but it wards off the primary attack of frost, which is fatal at once to these plants. If it be desirable to save seed, preserve the fruit first formed on a plant reserved for the pur

pose.

HORTICULTURAL MONTHLY CALENDAR.

Having in almost every instance mentioned the seasons for sowing, planting, transplanting, and otherwise attending to the culture of vegetables in the kitchengarden, it would only be waste of room to repeat directions, as is usually done, in connexion with the different months. It is hoped, therefore, that the following general references to the months will be sufficient :

January.—Trench and delve up all open grounds, if the weather permit; and in warm exposures, sow articles that are to be brought forward early. February.-Continue turning up the ground designed for early crops; sowing may go on a little more briskly. March. This is a particularly busy month, being, from its open and drying character, favourable for all works of preparation. Peas, beans, asparagus, onions, carrots, &c., are sown; and various articles are transplanted from frames. tril-A continuance of preparing, sowing, and planthoeing, thinning, and clearing out of weeds, reto be attended to.

-The main crops are now to be sown, early peas
p and staked, and young plants transplanted.

August.-Commence now to sow for the crops of nex year, such as onions, early cabbages, and parsley; a winter spinach. Earth celery; hoe and thin turn pa cut down stems of gathered artichokes, and genera clear out all stumps and stalks of used plants, for t continuance exhausts the ground to no proper purpo e September.-The kitchen gardener has now got his pr cipal labours in cropping over, and his chief work continuing to sow for winter and spring successi: he also digs potatoes that seem ready, and takes car to cut down and clear off weeds.

October. The garden having been prepared for spher vegetables, sow what was left over last month, ing celery, asparagus, also early peas and beans. cabbages and savoys require to be earthed up as as the leaves. Remove carrots and other roots, wh store away for winter use. November.-If tempa and open, a little sowing may be continued in shoter borders; but frost usually sets in early in the most.. and puts a stop to cropping operations. DecemberDuring the latter end of November, and the open per of this month, the chief operations are digging, mar ing, or trenching vacant ground, and attending t preparation of composts. In frost, the labour extre on the plants need only be protective; and the gard usually occupies much of this period in pruning ** trees, and attending to the more delicate plants frames and sheltered borders.

We have now presented a sketch of the princ vegetables grown in the kitchen gardens of Engi with the modes of general treatment, and the seas suitable for their culture. It may be necessary to the observation, that kitchen gardening, except am skilled professional men, is still in a backward cu u tion in all parts of the British islands; and that, exe in and about London, the people generally either & not know what fine vegetables are, or very seldom : them. Much has been done by horticultural societ to promote a better knowledge on the subject, and ta is evidently improving as respects all the products the garden; nevertheless, the bulk of the people ar still far behind their continental neighbours both the cultivation and preparation of culinary vegetab In order to produce a sensible improvement in hitr gardening, we should require to impart a knowledg what vegetables can be made to perform by pr cookery-what relish can be given to a plain d scarcely a farthing of more expense, merely by add. a few sprigs or slices of some highly flavoured plas In the article COOKERY, we have attempted to tar out a few useful hints on the best means of prepac vegetables, and would here add the recommendation all persons in a humble condition of life, that, if circun stances at all permit, they should endeavour to rent a cultivate a small garden, for the purpose of rearing 6. leisure hours a supply of kitchen vegetables, as we a

choice of flowers, and at least small fruit. The direc
tions afforded in the preceding pages (and in the s
sheets which follow) have been drawn up in a gre
measure for the use of this class of the people, a
those in a somewhat higher sphere; and though these
directions may not apply in any individual insta
they will, it is hoped, lead the mind to the true pris
ples on which garden-culture is to be conducted;
by thought, diligence, and experience, each person w
in a short time attain that amount of skill which w
bring his operations to a successful issue.

Printed and published by W. and R. CHAMBERS, Edinbus **
Sold also by W. S. ORR and Co., London