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skirt. White cashmere jacket cut up at the sides. Gold-colored | composed of one round and the other open puff, trimmed to silk is stitched around the bottom of the jacket, the sleeves and match the waist. Silk girdle, with small basques in front and the neck, in a tasteful open pattern. The shoulders and back at the back. are ornamented with cord of gold-color silk.
No. 3.-Low corsage of white muslin, with small basques all Page 83, No. 1.-Jacket of white muslin tucked across, with around, trimmed with lace and headed with a puff laid over blue revers top and bottom, of embroidery. Rows of inserting between ribbon. The corsage has bretelles of lace trimmed with a puff
the tucks. Full sleeves, with epaulets and revers. A green silk vest, edged with a ruffle of muslin, is worn beneath this jacket. No. 2.-Muslin waist-the lower part being tucked and trimmed with velvet, the upper portion is plain and rimmed with lace and velvet, so put on as to form a senorita jacket. Sleeves
laid over ribbon. Bow at the waist. Puffed sleeves, trimmed to match the waist.
No. 4-White waist and sleeves, composed of alternate rows of inserting and tucks. Pointed girdle of silk, edged with lace bretelles, and shoulder-knots of the same.
No.5.-Corselet, with jockeys of mauve silk laced across the front, and edged with a quilling of lace. It isworn over a high waist, with long sleeves of dotted muslin.
PAGE 84, Nos. 1 and 2.-Back and front of the Colas Jacket. It is made of black silk, and has revers of white silk back and front, ornamented with black braid. Black silk fringe trims the sleeves and back and front of the jacket. A bow at the throat confines the jacket in front, and it is cut in a point at the back, and is trimmed around the neck with white silk, braided with black.
PAGE 85, No. 1.-Riding costume. Felt hat, with wide ribbon encircling it, confined by a steel buckle in front. Gauze veil. Habit of light summer cloth. The corsage is crossed in front with revers. Band around the throat with a nar row standing collar. Long points in front, and small postillion basque at the back. Leather belt with a steel buckle. A leather cord with steel ornaments is attached to the belt with steel hooks, and serves to loop up the skirt when required.
Page 87, No. 1-Lace jacket to be worn over a low silk, pointed corsage, eeged with cord, and with a tassel at the points. The jacket has coat sleeves, and is trimmed with lace, with a heading of steel or jet.
No. 2.-Low corsage of muslin, laid in plaits, with a running of velvet through the top. Silk waistband, ornamented with a series of points, with bretelles-all trimmed with velvet put on in diamonds. Short sleeves with lace falling to the elbow.
Page 89, No. 1.-Girdle of black silk, with bretelles. The trimming consists of a gauffered ruffle of silk and steel gimp and ornaments. Under-waist of white muslin, with a yoke composed of tucks and inserting, and trimmed with a double ruffle. Full sleeves, close at the wrists.
Page 90, No. 1.-White muslin corsage, trimmed with bands of blue ribbon. A quilling of ribbon extends down the front and around the collar, with loops of the same at the throat. Quilling around the armholes, and shoulder-knots of ribbon. Down the front and around the wrists, inserting.
ac ess with black velvet-the straps extending beyond the width of the band. White waist with long sleeves, trimmed at both ends with black velvet. Waistband of blue silk with a loop of black velvet and a bow and ends of velvet at the back.
No. 2.-Little girl's dress of striped silk gauze. Each breadth is turned back, and trimmed with pink silk, edged with a ruche of the same, forming points at the bottom of the skirt. Low corsage, with very short sleeves trimmed with a ruche of pink silk. High muslin chemisette, with long sleeves embroidered with pink braid. Round chip hat, frosted and trimmed with pink and white feathers.
No. 3.-Little girl's dress of green foulard, trimmed with a lattice-work of white and black chenille, terminated by a fringe of the same material and shades. Jacket and coat sleeves trimmed to match the skirt.
No. 4.--Little girl's dress of white piqué. Square corsage and short sleeves, trimmed with narrow bands of crimson silk or merino, strapped across with velvet. The corsage is trimmed the same at the back as in front.
No. 5.-Little girl's dress of maize-colored barege, trimmed around the skirt with two rows of black drop buttons. Jacket of black silk, cut in scallops, ornamented with drop buttons. Coat sleeves.
No. 6.-Little boy's costume. Jacket and skirt of figured marseilles. The jacket is cut up in small basques all around, and is ornamented with braid. White drawers reaching just below the knees. Fancy stockings.
No. 7.-Little boy's costume. Pantaloons, jacket and waistcoat of Irish linen, trimmed with blue galoon and buttons.
No. 8-Young lady's dress of grenadine barege, made in the Gabrielle style. The skirt is cut in scallops around the bottom, and is ornamented with three rows of narrow velvet. Up the side the dress is scalloped and trimmed with velvet and buttons. Square corsage scalloped at the top. Very short sleeves. Square chemisette with long sleeves.
No. 9.-Little boy's costume of white piqus. The waist is No. 2-French muslin corsage, ornamented with tucks, insert- ornamented with crimson revers and a double row of crimson ing and lace. buttons: Crimson sash tied at the side, with fringed ends.
No. 3.-Maria Clotilde fichu of white spotted tulle, trimmed Coat sleeves with pointed revers.
with lace and bows of violet ribbon.
Page 91, No. 1.-Blouse
for a little girl, of white dotted muslin, trimmed with a puff of the same, lined with pink ribbon and edged with lace. Loops of ribbon ornament the sleeves and back of the waist.
No. 2.-Dressing jacket of nansouk, ornamented with a yoke and cuffs composed of small tucks and inserting.
DESCRIPTION OF BONNETS & HATS. PAGE 92.
No. 1. Empress bonnet of white puffed tulle, covered with a white and gold net. Bandeaux of ponceau velvet encirles the front and back of the bonnet. At the back is fastened a tulle veil, trimmed with straw stars above the hem. Two barbes of white tulle and golden cords ornament the sides. Strings of ponceau velvet.
No. 2.-Bonnet of white puffed tulle. The curtain is replaced by floating feathers and golden tassels. Ribbon and tulle strings. The front
of the bonnet is ornamented with a golden cable. The interior is a tasteful commingling of tulle and
No. 3.--Queen of the Fields bonnet of white chip. The crown and front are ornamented with a roll of white ribbon strapped across with yellow. At the back is an empire fanchon, and in the hollow of the plait at the back is a tea rose bud. Two others ornament the interior. White ribbon strings bordered with yellow.
No. 4.-Queen Margot hat of Italian straw, of oval shape, projecting in front and short at the sides. The hat is trimmed with a double row of blue and white Marguerites. Streamers of ribbon at the back.
No. 5.-Captain Henriot hat of white chip, ornamented with a knot of blue ribbons and a long white plume and aigrette.
No. 6.-Fanchon bonnet of embroidered blonde, trimmed over the front with a ruche of white and black lace, separated by a band of violet ribbon, which comes down at the sides and forms strings. Abow of violet ribbon, with ends, falls towards the crown.
costume of the same material is still the most generally adopted style. The favorite sort of jacket at the present moment is called the chasseur. It is a straight loose jacket, coming down a good deal below the waist, and scarcely taken in at all in front. It has a large fancifully. shaped pocket on each side. These jackets are elaborately trimmed all round and upon the sleeves and pockets; they are made in all kinds of fabrics, but especially black, or else of the same material as the dress. These jackets can be worn out-of-doors without any other overgarment. They are also worn indoors, generally with a waistband and buckle over them, gathering in the folds neatly round the waist.
One of these jackets was made of black silk. It was trimmed all round, including the front and neck, with rich silk gimp, studded with steel beads. The same trimming, with the addition of long drooping steel ornaments, was placed upon the epaulets, cuffs, and pockets.
Another was of light gray cloth, bound with wide purple and white checked silk braid, headed by a narrow black gimp plaiting, studded with steel beads. It is fastened in front with large round but
LADIE'S HAIR-DRESSING. BARKER, 622 & 624, BROADWAY. tons; the centre is of ivory and sharply pointed; the rim is of
No. 1.-Back view of waterfall chignon, showing waterfall and curls.
No. 2.-Front view of waterfall chignon, the front hair parted
well on left side, dressed in reverse rolls.
No. 3.-A heavy couronne passes over the front, over which the hair is combed à la demi chinous braids, and Grecian curls at back.
plain steel. and sleeves.
The same buttons are placed upon the pockets
Some of the chasseur jackets have no trimming, but very handsome large buttons, either flat or pointed. Some are of pearl, with rims of tortoiseshell, some of crystal with gold rims, some of ivory and jet, and others of plain steel, pearl, or crystal.
There is also another style of out-door jacket, called the veston. It is, in fact, an extremely short paletot, half-fitting to the figure, and has a small pointed hood at the back. They are
WHAT SHOULD BE WORN, AND WHAT SHOULD NOT. generally made of cashmere or thin summer cloth, and simply
pearl, with a steel rim. They are placed in threes-three in | and sloped to match the fronts; shoulder-blades are very comfront, three at the top and bottom of the sleeves, three upon mon spectacles indeed in many American drawing-rooms which each pocket, and three upon each seam at the back. The jacket are thronged with aristocratic guests. is much like a man's coat behind. Some are made without the pointed hood, and have a pretty round capeline at the top, which is put on over the head. The capeline can be taken off at pleasure when a hat is preferred.
A pretty costume for watering-place wear was composed of a skirt of blue and white striped foulard, looped up with blue and white gimp cable cord, over a petticoat of plain blue silk, a white bodice, trimmed with strips of guipure Cluny, lined with blue ribbons, and a veston of plain blue silk, lined with white, trimmed with blue and white gimp cord and ivory buttons with silver rims.
Another was made entirely of the same material, brown and white checked linos, the upper-skirt plain, the under one trimmed with three rows of thick ruches of brown silk, with pinked-out edges. The veston was trimmed all round as well as on the sleeves and pockets with a similar ruche. It was further ornamented with round cut steel buttons.
A third costume was made of grey mohair, with thin black stripes; the under-skirt and jacket were scalloped round and bound with blue silk braid; the jacket had no hood, but a capeline of the same material also scalloped out, only worked in bntton-hole stitch with blue silk instead of being bound with braid. Another style of dress is with a chasseur jacket; the skirt is not plaited, but gathered, like a deep flounce, under the edge of the jacket, and the seam is hidden by a thick pinked-out ruche. The jacket is fastened down the front with buttons, but the trimming is only put on around the bottom, the sleeves and neck. This dress has the appearance of being a skirt and jacket, while in reality it is all in one piece, and is extremely cool and comfortable for the summer. It can also be trimmed with gimp, plain rows of ribbon covered with black lace insertion, or ribbon quillings with a gimp edging.
Here are some more specimens of watering place costumes: A grey silk or Chamberry gauze skirt, trimmed above the hem with a band about four inches wide of bright brown silk; this is edged at both sides with narrow black lace, worked with steel beads. A white muslin bodice, and a brown silk corslet, cut from the same piece as the trimming above the hem. This corslet is very much like a pair of small French stays; there is black edging around the top, worked with steel beads. Over the shoulders a white silk gauze burnous, trimmed round with brown ribbon and black lace, and ornamented with brown tassels worked with steel. The bonnet is of soft grey tulle, and the trimmings are the exquisite variegated brown leaves now so much in vogue; the strings, the veil, and bonnet are all spangled with steel. Brown parasol, bronze kid boots, grey gloves stitched with brown would complete the toilet. As wil have been observed, all is in character, and each article matches, in some degree, with the other, producing on the whole a soft harmonious effect.
Another tasteful costume was a white tulle dress, the skirt of which was puffed, and studded all over with beautiful small humming-birds and long grasses. The head-dress corresponded, being arranged most gracefully with nest and birds. As there were more than four hundred guests present, a detailed description of the toilets would be tedious. As a rule the light glacé silk dresses, such as pink, blue, and mauve, were the most general, and these were trimmed either with white blonde, worked with crystal beads, or with silver and white tunics, or veils, as they are occasionally called. These tunics, made of white vapory tulle, striped with thin lines of silver, are excessively elegant, we might almost add fairylike, at candlelight. The bodices are usually made with a long point in front, and with long basques at the back, very much in the coat style. Many ladies appear to think it impossible to have their dresses cut low enough on the shoulders. We must cease from ridiculing, and and occasionally, as we are wont to do, from deploring the indecency of Parisian belles, who are seriously asked if they do not think that their apology for short sleeves, in the shape of a narrow shoulder-strap, is an unnecessary appendage. It grieves us to write it, but bodices are cut quite as low in New York as they are in Paris. The backs of the bodices, too, are slanted
Light dresses of thin costly materials are to be seen more frequently than in former seasons, and are more expensively trimmed than ever. Chamberry gauze, which, until the present time, has been looked upon as exclusively adapted to evening wear and for summer balls, is now to be seen for walking toilets as frequently as the most modest alpaca or mohair. The leaders of fashion will absolutely wear for the present nothing but Chambery gauze. For walking it is self-colored, either a greylilac or an empress-blue. For driving it is striped-a wide groseille satin stripe upon white. The arrangement of the skirts runs thus: first, there is a silk strip of the same shade as the gauze; then there is a gauze petticoat scalloped out round the edge, and bound with silk to match; and lastly there is a second gauze skirt, likewise scalloped at the edge, but looped up over the other by means of straps made of Chambery gauze lined with silk. The lace casaque is worn with these skirts, and over it a very wide belt fastened with a mother-of-pearl buckle; the sash sometimes falls with two ends at each side of the skirt, and sometimes at the back, which, is a matter of taste. A casquette made of barley-straw, which is shiny and bright-looking, a band of peacock's feathers round it and a double aigrette of the same at the side, forms altogether a very distinguished and fashionable toilet for a young lady 'of fourteen to twenty years of age.
I also remarked two dresses, one of white muslin, scalloped out round the edge, bordered with Valenciennes lace, and looped up over a plain blue silk petticoat; sky blue ribbons, covered with lace insertion, commenced at the waist and descended each breadth of the skirt, looping it up over the petticoat; a half bodice of blue silk was to be worn over the high white bodice.
Silk petticoats may be numbered among the extravaganı novelties of this season: those who can afford them replace the mohair petticoats which were fashionable last year with colored silk ones of various patterns. In one of the trousseaux I remarked a white silk petticoat, trimmed round the edge with a thick ruche; also three fancy silk petticoats. One was striped black and white, trimmed with five rows of narrow black velvet; another was poppy-red, ornamented with butterflies of Chantilly lace; and a third, Russian leather color, with two rows of guipure worked with steel beads round it. These petticoats would be more suitable as dresses; and all reasonable women will continue, I should hope, to wear either red or white lenos for morning, and embroidered cambric muslin for afternoon and evening toilets, because muddy crossings and splashes soon render the silk petticoats unwearable.
We will describe three morning toilets which have recently been made in Paris. The skirts, which are cut longer than necessary, are looped up with bands at each breadth; the skirts do not train, but are longer than the petticoat, which is still so short for morning wear that it goes by the name of the "Milkmaid petticoat." The first of these toilets consists of gray warp-silk lustre-a new material which has found great favor. It is scalloped round the edge of the skirt, and bound with taffetas to match; the bands, which are used for trimming as well as for looping up the skirt, and are of gimp, exactly the same color as the dress; the skirt falls lower at the back than at the front, and the petticoat is barely visible. The paletot, to correspond, is cut with three seams at the back, and is trimmed with gimp and large silk buttons.
The second toilet was a very fine striped blue and white poil de chèvre; the skirt edged with a very narrow quilling of the same; a wide fold down the centre breadth, edged likewise with the narrow quilling and large gimp buttons sewn upon the fold. The bodice cut round at the waist, with two coat basques at the back, which basques are trimmed with buttons. Paletot to correspond.
A third toilet is of green and black striped silk; the skirt is not looped up because it is intended for afternoon wear; it is, therefore, left long and training, and has only a thick girdle cord round the edge. The very short paletot is scalloped at the edge, and upon every seam of it there are buttons cut in the
form of butterflies, and made of ebony. The bodice is likewise ornamented with these buttons. A rice straw Empire bonnet would be worn with this toilet.
Another style of making silk dresses has lately been taken into favor, and proves very becoming to both slight and stout figures. There is no trimming round the skirt; the braid is doubled, and the two edges are sewn together inside the edge of the skirt; this gives a fuller appearance than when the braid is sewn single and flat. We will illustrate the make of the dress by taking as an example a blue silk, with a white hair-stripe upon it. The front of the bodice turns back with revers, which revers are made of plain blue silk, matching precisely the color of the dress. The front breadth is arranged en tablier, with blue buttons worked Iwith white, down the centre. Both tablier and revers are edged with a plaiting of narrow blue ribbon, with chain-stitch worked in white silk by a sewing machine the eighth of an inch from the edge. The sleeves are trimmed to correspond. Many dresses are made up in this way- the front with plain, and the remainder with striped silk, but both matching precisely in shade as well as color.
The straps of silk which are used at the same time for orna
ments for dresses and for looping up skirts, take a thousand different forms, and a thousand different shades. The most elegant are embroidered by hand in silk, of a contrasting color with the ground of the strap, the embroidery being studded with beads.
The following is a toilet, ornamented with straps, which will give the idea of the style I allude to The dress is made of white alpaca ; the straps are cut from piece silk coral red. Their design is very
novel, as they represent a ribbon passing and repassing into three rings. These rings, which are made of the plain red silk, are edged with black silk braid, studded over with coral beads. The petticoat has a single cross-cut band sewn straight round the edge, and ascending from it are small straps placed perpendicularly. The casaque is trimmed, like the skirt, with the rings, those on the skirt being much larger than those on the casaque. At the top of every strap there is a small hook, and, at a certain distance below the hook, a loop, made of white sewing silk. By this arrangement the dress can be looped up when desirable.
The warm weather which we have been enjoying, has rendered both white dresses and the very thinnest materials, a positive necessity. The casaques, both partially and entirely fitting the figure, made of guipure and black lace, are greatly in vogue. They are rarely lined, and are worn over thin dresses, thus producing the happiest effect. Many ladies wear them over low dresses, so that the lace is the only covering to the shoulders. This looks well when driving, but on foot it is extremely inelegant.
Another old fashion revived is the introduction of silk fringes as trimmings to tulle dresses, and very light and appropriate they look. They are about four inches deep and are made of coarse purse silk. They are sewn on the skirt to simulate a tunic, and are headed with a wide ruche to match. A dress of this description may be made thus: A white tulle puffed skirt, with a bright green fringe arranged as a tunic upon it, the fringe so placed as to fall over a bouilJonné, the heading to the fringe being a green ruche; the bodice trimmed as a bertha with narrow green fringe and