Puslapio vaizdai

third row of velvet terminates at each side, meeting another,
velvet which starts from the waist, and forming an ornament
à la Grecque. The high body is trimmed with bretelles of vel-
vet, a band of which crosses the front, and is fastened at each
end by a steel button; there is a row of velvet on the bottom
of sleeve, and round the armhole, and five bands at the back of
sleeve, with a steel button at each end.

lar of black velvet, trimmed with rich cord, tassels and buttons. Black velvet hat, with a Magenta plume.

Fig. 15.-Dress of striped poplin. Plain skirt, looped over a scalloped petticoat. High corsage, with a basque all the way round. Coat sleeves, with revers of silk. Medium width belt. Velvet hat with plume, bird of paradise, and scarf veil.

Fig. 16-Jupe or skirt of Havana silk, trimmed en tablière Fig. 14.-Little girl's dress of Magenta poplin, with a circu- with claret velvet, graduating in width from the waist, and con





PAGE 877.

tinued on the bottom of
skirt, with the exception of
the front breadth, the width
of velvet being rather more
than a quarter of yard; one
edge of velvet ornamented
by black slk drop buttons.
On the tablière is a black
guipure lace laid on flat,
in an arabesque design. Fi-
garo jacket of rich claret
velvet, edzed round with
drop buttons; the sleeves of
a medium width, have epau-
lets of guipure lace, headed
by drop buttons, a row of
which finishes the bottom
of sleeve. Chemisette of -
plaited muslin, and broad
velvet waist and.

Fig. 17. High dress of olive-green Irish poplin, or rich thick silk. Casaque of rich black velvet, perfectly fitting the figure; round the neck of the casaque and following the line of fronts, is a guipure lace laid on flat; from the waist it is rounded on the skirt, continued on the bottom, and carried round the opening, which is left at the bottom of skirt at the back; this guipure is headed by a silk passementerie, which is enriched by steel beads, and from the waist a black lace flounce falls from under the guipure, but of course is not carried round the openings. The sleeves are shaped at the elbow, and at the bottom have an ornament, formed by the guipure, and a narrower row of the steel trimming. Bonnet of black velvet, bound with white plush or white feather trimming; bows and long ende of black lace at the back; a large rose at the left side; blond cap with rose buds, and broad white strings.


Fig 18-Borghèse coiffure. Violet silk dress. The waist is short and round, and is cut square. Empire belt. Short puffed sleeves, covered with long sleeves of silk tulle. The skirt and waist are trimmed with two rows of white lace laid on flat, and united by means of a band of white silk cut in scallops, and edged with black velvet; medallions of black velvet, headed with steel, are placed in the centre of this band.

PAGE 373.

cond skirt is looped at equal distances by two narrower tabs, which are buttoned together in the centre; the one end of each tab being fastened to the dress by a stee! button. Tight-fitting Cisaque of light Havana astrakan, very open at the chest, with collar and revers of black velvet, edged with narrow white cord; it is closed by two small tabs of velvet and steel buttons. The skirt of the casaque is rounded off from the second tab, is open at the sides with revers of black velvet:

the slceve has an epaulet with two points, and at the bottom is ornamented with revers to corre pond with the fronts and skirt. Helmet hat of black velvet, ornamented with peacock's feathers; black aigraffe in the front.


Fig. 22.--Dress of dark Havana poplin, and closefitting paletot of black velvet; it has a deep postillion jacket, which is trimmed round with lace, which is carried up the back seams, forms epaulets on the shoulders, and terminates in the front in a point at the waist; "the lace is headed by a narrow silk trimming, enriched by steel beads. On the shoulder seams is an arabesque in passementerie, terminating in rich tassels; a similar ornament in the centre of back at waist; these arabesques are all enriched by steel beads. Bonnet of dark-green velvet without crown; two rows of black and white fringe fall from under a band of cerise velvet edged with white gimp; blonde cap with cerise flowers and broad white strings.

Fig. 23-The bonnet in the empire style, has a round crown in terry velvet; a plait of velvet simulates a curtain; a long white feather is placed over the top of the bonnet, and fixed on the left side by a green and gold clasp. The inside is trimmed with a torsade of tulle, also fastened by a clasp, and continued on the right side in a long square veil, which flows on the back. Solferino ribbon strings. The dress is made of light-gray silk,

in front or at the hips. Two bands of Solferino velvet are put on each side of the front, and continued in points all round the bottom of the skirt, and ornamented with velvet buttons. The sleeve is trimmed to match. A wide velvet band fastened by an oval oxydised silver buckle completes the toilet.

Fig. 19-Empire bonnet of white uncut velvet, trimmed and cut in the shape called "Impératrice," without any plaits with white piumes, with a humming-bird perched on the top, and a tulle scarf veil' falling over one side. Moire antique dress, trimmed with band of black silk bound with cherry color. Square corsage, cut very low in front. A band of black silk encircles the neck and simulates a long basque on the skirt, rounded at the back. Binds of black silk are put on in the form of V's up the front. A sish of black silk, bound with cherry, is fastened at the side. Coat sleeves.


Fig. 20.-Little girl's dress of green alpica, trimmed with black velvet ribbon and drop buttons. The corsage is round at the waist and square at the neck, and the trimming is put on i the Greek pattern, so as to simulate a deep basque. Chemisette and underaleeves of muslin.

Fig. 21.-Dress à deux jupes of green silk; the first is trimmed at equal distances by tabs of black velvet, edged by a very narTOW white braid or cord, and fastened at the top point by a steel button.

The sc


PAGE 374.

Fig 24.-Toilette de chambre. The coiffure is a Malines tulle cap, forming a bouillonné, parted by a blue ribbon. On the top of the head is a bow of blue ribbon, from which is continued on each side of the front a ribbon, joined behind in another bow with two long ends. The dress is made of blue cashmere, closed at the waist, and bound at the bottom with a black and gold silk cord. The ornamentation consists of a sort of stole, lower in front than behind and composed of gold braid and black velvet bands. On the front that trimming is finished at the waist, but on the back it goes under the waistband, forming a long loop, which parts and falls in two wide ends. A

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cordelière runs round the neck, descends to the waist, and, turning around each hip, passes through the loop behind. Another cord with tassel hangs on each side of the skirt.

Fig. 25.-Dress of "Moonlight-on-the-Lake" moire antique. High corsage and coat sleeves. The trimming consists of bands of violet ribbon edged with fringe. A band of guipure heads the row which encircles the skirt. Violet silk sash fastened beneath the arm. The hair is ornamented with purple beads

Fig. 26-Dress of unwatered moire antique, trimmed with tabs of green velvet ornamented with fancy buttons. Deep basque and coat sleeves. The velvet trimming is placed around the bottom of the skirt, up the front, and around the basque, and it also ornaments the top and bottom of the sleeves. Green satin bonnet, trimmed with green velvet, and a scarf veil.

Fig. 27.-Dress of gray

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popio, trimmed with green velvet, put on in the form of sheafs of wheat, and each edged with drop buttons. High round corsage. Coat



Fig. 28-Little girl's dress and pardessus of heavy black rep silk, trimmed with velvet and fur. Velvet cap.


PAGE 372, No. 1.-- The hair is raised en marte u, and the front decorated with a tuft of feathers and an aigrette. The back hair falls in a loop, with tuft of sma 1 ostrich feathers. The dress is made ofuite or some very lightFored satin, with a round waist, and the bodice is decorated with puffings of ribbon velvet with bows and festoons of black beads on the front and on the shoulders. The waistband is also of velvet with a double bow in front, having a buckle in the centre. The skirt is trimmed with a ruche of


ribbon velvet festooned, the point of the front festoon being very high, and the points of the festoons decreasing in height to the back. Puffings of satin or double tulle are laid over the ruchings in festoons, drawn together and fastened with rows of beads. Black lace may be substituted for velvet.

No. 2.-Is a head-dress of white tulle, the veil at the back trimmed with blond; steel comb with grass and rose-buds; rose-buds in the centre of bandeau.

Page 373, No. 1.-Dress and paletot of green reps, ornamented with bands of green silk and rosettes of the same, with ends edged with drop trimming. Bonnet ornamented with velvet flowers and lace.

No. 2-Cuir-colored silk dress trimmed with bands of brown silk, bordered with narrow black lace and rosettes of the same, with square steel buttons in the centre. The paletot is trimmed to correspond with the skirt. Leghorn bonnet, trimmed with lace and velvet flowers.

No. 3.-Dress and paletot of green silk, trimmed with rich steel gimp, put in in half squares three rows deep, and with steel buttons at the ends. The paletot has a fall of black lace. Coat sleeves. Felt hat, trimmed with feathers, velvet, and a steel ornament.

Page 376, No. 1.-Deep blue merino petticoat with a narrow flounce at the bottom. Dress of gray poplin, shading on ashesof-rose color, edged with a narrow gauffered ruffle, bound on both sides with blue silk. Each seam is corded up with blue silk, and a rosette of blue silk loop up the dress at intervals. Paletot of black velvet, trimmed with guipure lace. Bonnet of blue velvet.

No. 2.-Dress of cuir-colored reps, trimmed with three bands -two narrow and one wide-of brown silk, put on in the Greek pattern. Round corsage, with brown belt and buttons: Coat sleeves.

No. 3.-Little girl's dress of white merino, trimmed with

[graphic][graphic][merged small][merged small]

bands of cherry silk, covered with white guipure lace. Boots of dress of blonde and flowers placed in the centre of the front cherry-colored kid. Coral necklace.

No. 4.-Morning dress of blue cashmere, with flounce of black silk, with a heading of steel. The skirt is open in front, and turned over with black silk richly ornamented with steel. Short jacket of cashmere, encircled with a band of silk, dotted over with steel.

PAGE 377, No. 1.-Child's dress of poplin, cut in points around the bottom and up each side of the front breadth, and bound with velvet or braid. Steel buttons ornament the scallops up the front breadth. Round corsage, with a sash fastened on the side. Paletot, slightly defining the outline of the figure, of cloth, trimmed with velvet, tassels, and steel buttons. Felt hat, with the brim turned up at the sides, and ornamented with velvet and plumes.

No. 2.-Little girl's dress of alpaca, trimmed up the sides with plain silk, bordered and strapped across with black velvet, held in place by gilt buttons. Paletot of gray cloth, scalloped around the edge, and bound and trimmed with black velvet, set off by gilt buttons. Beaver hat, trimmed with feathers and velvet.

Page 378,, No. 1.-Dress of green poplin, with an underskirt of the same material. The dress is looped up with a square of green silk, with white silk piping. Paletot and coat sleeves, trimmed to match the dress. Bonnet of white uncut velvet, with tulle veil.

No. 2.-Dress of maize or amber glace silk, trimmed at the bottom with a deep plaited flounce, and covered with a skirt of gaze de soie looped up on the left side with a large double bow and ends of amber satin ribbon. The bodice has a point both behind and before, and is draped with crossway folds of satin and gaze de soie alternately, fastened in the centre with a large gold brooch with hanging ornaments. The necklace and earrings correspond with the brooch. Head

hair, with a tiny bunch of flowers to correspond, arranged at the side.

No. 3.-Dress of imperia blue satin, made with a plain gored skirt and train behind. Bodice arranged with a short, round waist, over which a broad band and sash are worn. The top of the bodice, and the sash and ends are trimmed with a handsome edging and fringe of white jet-now a very favorite style of ornamentation for ladies' garments. The broad fringe only is placed on the two sash ends, and round the top of the bodice; in the latter case, taking the place of an ordinary bertha or drapery. The short sleeves are composed of a puffing of double tulle. The head-dress is made of blue velvet, studded with beads to correspond with those on the dress.

No. 4.-Dress of mauve merino, each seam corded in rose de chiné silk. The skirt is bordered with a wide band of rose de chiné silk, as are also the top and bottom of the coat sleeves.

No. 5.-Round hat of black velvet, with a tulle scarf veil twisted around it, and confined in front by a jet ornament,

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while the veil floats at one side. Paletot and skirt of brown rep, trimmed with bands of galoon.



FIG. 1.-DRESS OF GREEN MOIRE ANTIQUE, trimmed around the bottom of the skirt with a row of fur. Two narrow rows ornament each side, with rows of buttons in the centre. High corsage, with round basque bordered with fur. Coat sleeves, with fur around the armholes and wrist, and also encircling the throat. Fur muff. Green velvet bonnet, with can crown and scarf veil.

FIG. 2.-YOUNG GIRL'S DRESS OF WHITH TARLETANE. The lower skirt is trimmed with a puff of the same, edged with straw gimp and dotted over with Marguerites. Tunic of

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