i OONTENTS OF NO. 5, VOL. 5XVII. . LITERATURE. PAOB 340 Evening Hours - 312 | The Confessions of a Selfish Man . 343 RETRIBUTION. Engraving - 313 THE BLIND GIRL'S STRATAGEM ; OR, THE CODICIL. A FLOGGING-HORSE. Engraving • 315 Two Engravings • 345 ARMADALE-C ntinued. By Wilkie Collins. • 316 THE CATAMARAN POSTMAN. Engraving 352 CASTLE THUNDER, RICHMOND, VIRGINIA. Engraving 327 SLING'NG LETTER-BAGS ACROSS A NULLAH. Eng. 353 HOUSE 07 GENER IL C. LEE. Engraving • 327 | Gay Hiliard's Skeleton 353 THE LITTLE KITTEN. Engraving 327 BATHING ON THE JERSEY COAST. Two Engravings - 355 LOSS OF THE GOLDEN RULE. Engraving . 327 CHARLES HERMANN, THE PRESTIDIGITATEUR. Eng. - 355 JESSIE BROWN. Engraving . 327 Househo'd Receipts - 357 THE FATAL TREASURE; OR, THE CAMEO BROOCH. Eng. 329 | A String of Beads 358 My Own Story 334 POETRY_The Golden City, 309; Paul Melton's Love, 313 ; By KNUCKLE DOWN. Engraving - 340 the River - 329 THE VIVIPAROUS FISH. Engraving - 340 Miscellaneous. - 337 • 341 . 345 ENORA VINO. 313 " Kouckle Down," · 316 | The Viviparois Fish Castle Thunder, Richmond, Va. - 3.0 The Blind Girl's Stratagem. Two Engravings The Little Kit'en 321 The Catamaran Postuan House sf General Charles Lee 324 Slingiog Letter-bags across a Nullah Passengers Leaving the Golden Role - 324 Preparing for the Bath “ The Campbells are coming,' 328 | A Scene on the Beach The Fatal Treasure 329 G A ZETTE OF FASHION. Nine Children's Dresses Mantle, Two Dresses - Four Morning Dresses, etc. · 225 Watteau Skirt Elevator • 227 Four Dresses, Paletots, etc. Mignon Paletot, Silk Girdle • 228 Two Jackets • 229 | Six Bonnets and Hats 233 . 234 235 - 236 a are trimmed to correspond. N. B. -- If preferred, instead of skirt; it is of course, trimmed like the skirt, by the violet rib- Fig. 9.-Dres3 of cuir-colored cashmere, with a round waist match the dress. Caraco or Spanish body of blue silk, cut in Fig. 7.--Dress à deux jupes of garnet silk ; the first skirt scallops and edged with black velvet. Underneath is worn a trimmed at a little distance from the bottom, by two rows of chomisette of white muslin, with a waist belt of black velvet black silk ribbon, the upper one having a series of short tabs having short skirts in front ; it is stitched with bright blue of the same material, joined to it by small buttons. The silk. Bocond skirt is edged at the bottom with bands of black ribbon, Fig. 11.--Dinner or evening toilet. Hair dressed à l'Empire. to match the underskirt, and is caught at equal distances by The hair is curled over the forehead. A Circassian braid forms six black silk cords and tassels. Long skirted waistcoat aj a diadem between two rows of pearls, and passer under the Louis XV.; it is of garnet silk, closing by black buttons, and chignon, which is composed of three tufts of curls. Dress of is edged all round by black ribbon; at the bottom is a grelot plain silk, with a corselet forming a Regency waistcoat, trimmed fringe ; mousquetaire pockets trimmed with black ribbon. with black lace. White Jace around the top. Black lace Paletot of black velvet, trimmed with bands of passementerie jacket, open in front, and fitting closely to the figure at the to match the skirt ; it is quite open in the front, not covering back. the front of the waistcoat, to mbich it is attached by small but- Fig. 12.-Empire bonnet of white uncut velvet, trimmed tons underneath. The sleeves are trimmed to match the with tassels and cord of gold, with a white scarf at the back fronts, and are left open at the back of the arm nearly to the dotted with gold. Priocess dress of blue silk, trimmed with elbow, the openings being laced up by a black cord, which bands of white silk. This trimming forms a bertha at the back. finishes by tassels at the top. Bonnet of pink terry, trimmed Coat sleeves. The front of the skirt is plain ; but there is a with black lace and small bunches of grapes. wide flounce put on from the angle of the trimming. Fig. 8. --Suit or dress and paletot of black silk, trimmed Fig. 13.-Coiffure. The whole hair is frizzed, raised, and with plaitings of violet ribbon. The skirt is à deux jupes, the combed up at equal distances over a circle covered with pink upper skirt being very short and cut into large pointed scallops velvet. The chignon is composed of a large loop, with "marat the bottom, which are edged by the violet trimming. This teaux" on the sides. The dress is made in Magenta cashmere, paletot is open in front, with revers turned back ; it fastens by and edged round the bottom with a black silk braid, pat on in hooks and eyes at the chest only, and is sloped off from this vandykes, and headed with flat silk buttons. The low square place to the bottom, where it is cut in scallops like the upper l bodice is trimmed in the same way, and fastened by a silk waistband with a large gold buckle. The under bodice worn buttons, and completed by a broad waistband. The sleeve, cat with this dress is made of plaited Indian maslin, and opened in with the seam at the elbow, is very narrow at the wrist, and front in the shape of a V. The top and back of sleeve and cuff simply trimmed with a band of blue velvet. are trimmed with an open-worked insertion, through which is Fig. 15.-Dress of Napoleon blue poplin, trimmed at the botrun a narrow black ribbon velvet. tom by narrow black Velvet and steel buttons. Casaque or Fig. 14.-Tho cloak, the sbapo of which is called “Napoli- | short paletot of gray fancy cloth ; it fits perfectly tight, and taine,” is made of blue has waistbelt of cashmere, bound with 7 black velvet fastening 8 black velvet, and has in front with a steel a sort of capuchon. buckle. The fronts The trimming con close at the top by sists of black Velvet hooks and eyes, and tabs, graduated and at the bottom by bands placed at equal dis of black Velvet and tances, one above the steel buttong. Thero other, and fastened are revers to the fronts only at the top by a and the skirts, which steel star. The part are turned back and composing the capu covered with black chon shows, when on velvet, fastening by the head, a long vel steel buttons. Tho vet tab, and forms, pockets are of black when hanging down, velvet, with steel but. a long pelerine edged tons on each, and the with velvet. Dress in epaulets and cuffs are gray silk, ornamented of course of blaek velwith blue velvet tabs, vet to correspond. to correspond with Hat of gray felt, barthose of the Napo iog in front a black litaine. A plaited feather fastened by a flounce is placed at steel clasp. the bottom, and head Fig. 16. – Skirt of ed with a scalloped brocade silk ; the band of velvet. The sprigs are corn-flowers, bodice is high, and and near the bottom quite plain, with a are bouquets of field round waist, fastened flowers and ears of down the front by a corn, while as a borrow of flat blue velvet 7. POPLIN DRESS AND PALEOT. 8. STRIPED SILK DRESS. PAGE 223. der, a pattern is prints MIGNON PALETOT OF BLACK VELVET. ed in imitation of black lace, the bottom, and besides this, the back tout ensemble having a charming is ornamented by a long band of effect. Casaque of black silk ; the 1 the purple clotb, starting from the skirt, forming a deep point at the neck and wideoing towards the botback, is finished by a trimming of tom, where it forms a point; three steel beads : at the waist a small tabs are placed near the end, and a postilion jacket, edged with the fancy tassel at each corner. Bonsame trimming, and ornamented net of black velvet, with frill of with an agrafe of rich passemen black lace at the back, and trimmed terie mixed with steel beads; on with pink ribbon and rosebuds. the front of the skirt similar agrafes Fig. 23.–Bonnet of corded silk take the place of pockets. The puffed, trimmed with green velvet sleeve is shaped at the elbow, and ribbon ; a scarf veil and Marguerites has a small jockey and moueque with trailing grasses. Gray moire taire cuff, both edged with steel antique dress, trimmed with bands beads, ornamented with agrafes ; of silk and buttons. The corsage this casaque closes from the waist is round at the waist and square in to the throat, with richly-cut steel the neck behind, and in the form of buttons. a V in front The trimming on Fig. 17.-Riding habit of black the skirt simulates an open casaque cloth, with a white waistcoat. The in front, forms two poin's at the jacket buttons over the chest, but sides, and rounds off at the back. is open at tbe waist. Coat sleeves, Fig. 24.-Dress à deux jupes, of with an epaulet of fringe. Jet or alpaca. The first, or underskirt is steel buttons. Underskirt of scar trimmed round by a row of rather let, trimmed with black velvet. broad black Velvet, just below Beaver hat, with a white plume. which is a row of narrower velvet, Dogskin gauntlets. formed at intervals into ancbor Fig. 18. — Plain alpaca skirt. shap d ornaments. The 8 cond Paletot of blue cloth, open and skirt is caught up at intervals, by pointed on the hips, and trimmed large tabs of the same material, PAGE 232. with passementerie (ringe and tas all edged with the broad velvet, sels. Blue velvet bonnet. and having in the centres the anFig. 19.-Dress of purple and black striped silk. The jacket chor ornaments of the varrow velvet. The body and sleeves are is open up each seam and is bound with a wide band of black of course trimmed to correspond. The capéliene or cape with silk, headed w.th small steel buttons. Small linen collar, with bood, is of blue cashmere, the cape reaches to the waist, and a cravat of black silk, fasten•d at the back, and having long the hood is pointed at the back. It is trimmed to match the ends edged with friage. dress, with two rows of black velvet, the narrower one formiog! Fig. 20.- Dress and paletot of blue poplin, trimmed with the anchor pattern, and is fastened at the neck by a double bias bands of blue silk. Wbite velvet bonoet. clasp of steel. Fig. 21.--Dress of light moire antique, the skirt is trimmed Fig. 25.--Dress of striped silk. Short, tigit-fitting casaque, at the bottom by three bands of of black silk, piped with cerise. or paletot with hood ; the material is light gray cashmere or At each tido, and in front, these bands form points, which are molleton, with cerise spots, and it is edged all round with a fastened down by cerise buttons; in front and at the sides, narrow cerise and white frioge. The back skirt is arranged to similar bands are carried from the waist to the upper row of imitute three openings, fastened by large gold buttons. The trimming. The body is plain and high, with round waist and bood is edged round with the fringe, and has at the back an waistbelt of black silk edged with cerise ; it is trimmed to arabesque of cerise cord, with tassel, of fl s3 silk. Hat, or match the skirt, by bands of silk up the front, and on the chapeau de matelot, of velvet, trimmed with a feather and black shoulders, back, and chest, to imitate a square opening, and the velvet. sleeves are trimmed to correspond. Fig. 26.-Black silk dress with a double skirt, trimmed with Fig. 22. — Dress of rich empress cloth, the color pearl gray, gold embroidery, the upper skirt is looped up with bands emthe skirt without trimming. Talma, or full mantle, of rich bossed with gold, fastened with gilt buckles. Short paletot, violet cloth, trimmed in a very novel style, by pointed tabs, trimmed with bands to match the skirt. Coat sleeves. Black the upper parts of which are formed of black velvet, and have velvet hat, trimmed with plumes, gold cord, and a scarf veil in the middle of each, an elegant design worked in steel and dotted with gold. jet beads; these tabs are edged at bottom by a steel fringe, and Fig. 27.—Beaver hat, trimmed with velvet flowers and a are fastened at top by a steel button. The mantle is cut so as swallow with a branch of cherries in his beak. Dress and pale. to form a large plait or fold on each shoulder, and there is a tot of green silk, trimmed with straps of white silk. Loops of tab at the top and bottom of these plaits. The fronts close by white silk form epaulets. A high round waist is worn beneath books and eyes, and have three of the tabs on each side of the the paletot. opening, increasing in size towards the bottom. At the back Fig. 28.-Bonnet of white shirred satin. Dress of purplo of the mantle, there are two of these tabs placed towards the watered silk made in the empire style—that is to say, with a a a short waist and no plaits to the skirt either in front or over black and white striped poplin. The crimson skirt and waist pinked ruche of blue silk. Bertha, trimmed with blue silk No. 4.-Opera Cloak of rich white silk, lined with rose color, DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS. it is made with a hood, plaited at the top, and is trimmed with Page 227, No. 1.- Dress of green moire antique. Tight- loops and ends of narrow rose-colored ribbon ; the bottom of cloak trimmed to correspond. No. 5.-Evening dress with two skirts, the first of white silk, blue velvet with long flowing ends ; in the centre of each bow, three white Marguerites. The body is muslin or tarlatane, with equare bertha of blue velvet; short puffed sleeves, with bows of velvet ribbon; in the centre of bertba, a group of Marguerites ; a single flower being placed on each shoulder. This is an extremely simple and elegant costume for a young lady. 3 1 |