Puslapio vaizdai
PDF
„ePub“

lady-like paletots for seaside wear, which have as yet been introduced, are made of a very fine white velvety cloth, with white moire ribbons at the back, and white moire lozengeshaped buttons in front.

The summer toilettes are usually very simple in style; the Empress Eugenie has been the first to set the example of this, we may say, resuscitated taste. The imperial lady's out-door dresses, whether of taffetas or moire, are all made with but very ittle trimming, and almost invariably with a short paletot to match. And still

1

WHITE TULLE FICHU. PAGE 12.

of a white tulle puffing' the line of separation between the white and blue being marked with a smal garland of forget-me-nots, and a fringe of rock crystal.

The married sister of the young lady for whom the dress was intended, had ordered a toilette in the same style, with this difference, that the dress was all of white tulle, with white ruches, and the ruches had large blue beads in imitation of turquoises in the centre of them; a tunic worked over with white beads was worn over the skirt;

[graphic]

buckle; at the back there was a wide sash, fringed with blue beads. Round the head, bandelettes of blue turquoises, with a comb of the same stones.

a great partiality is evinced for effective ornaments, such as round the waist there was a wide belt of white moire, ornasteel and crystal. The latter especially is used upon the Em-mented with blue beads and fastened in front with a turquoise pire bonnets, which slowly gain ground. The crowns of this new shape are trimmed with rosettes of ribbon, the centre of the rosettes being formed with large crystal buttons. The Fanchon, or half-handkerchief style of bonnet which now prevails universally, is found by many to be "too common"it is so easy to make at home, everybody wears a bonnet à la fanchon; and what everybody wears is not always acceptable, so the Empire shape, which is more difficult to improvise is eulogised as "" distinguished," and adopted by a very small minority.

Alpaca, mohair, and camlet dresses are much trimmed with cross-cut tucks or folds of silk. Thus a striped mauve and white camlet or alpaca will have three cross tucks of mauve silk round the skirt. These tucks will be about two inches deep, and be headed with a single line of narrow white silk braid; the same ornament on the paletot and sleeves. Mauve buttons and band.

The hats intended exclusively for country wear will be large this season-a most sensible proceeding, as the hats, or rather caps, which are sported in Paris and other cities, are no protection to the face, and necessitate a parasol. Consequently several "country hats" were introduced last week. There is the Juponnais hat, with flat, broad brim, bound and trimmed with black velvet; the Jardinière hat, encircled with a garland of such flowers as pinks and double hyacinths, the garland being tied with a gauze bow and ends at the back; and lastly the Swiss hat, trimmed with sprays of flowers which pass the brim. Either black velvet or white strings are added to all country hats. The Belgian straw is one of the prettiest of plaited straws, but the Leghorn, although not so fashionable, remains the finest and most beautiful.

Among the evening toilets prepared for watering-place wear may be cited the following:

The first which came under my notice was intended for a very young lady. It was made of white gauze, embroidered with sky-blue stars; the skirt was trimmed with three wide ruches of pinked-out white tulle, alternating with three blue silk ruches. The bodice was a small blue silk coat, cut with four pointed tails, trimmed with a thick white ruche, in the centre of which sprays of forget-me-not were arranged. The upper part of the coat bodice consisted

Another very pretty dress was of white tulle dotted over with straw stars. The edge of the skirt was rendered firm by the addition of rows of green satin ribbon (the shade called seagreen), upon which straw gimp was sewn; the upper skirt was trimmed to correspond, but the edge was finished off with straw balls, and at the side it was looped up with a bouquet of oats and wheat ears. The bodice was crossed with braces of green satin trimmed with straw, and these were carried down each side of the upper skirt until they reached the straw bouquets. At the back of the bodice the braces were carried down to form a sash without loops; one side of the green satin was edged with straw balls.

Another, but not such an original toilette, although one of extreme freshness, was made of white silk gauze, over a lilac silk slip; the skirt was edged with a wide lilac ruche, and above the ruche there were puffings of gauze. The low coat bodice was cut heart-shaped in front, and trimmed round the shoulders with a fringe of delicate sprays of lilac; these crossed in front, and were carried down the basques of the coat at the back; these basques or tails were lined with mauve silk. Silver bandelets and a cache peigne of lilacs composed the head-dress.

For small summer balls a very pretty means has been devised for trimming up dresses without much outlay, and, as the plan will also be found admirable for tourists, I will enter fully into the details. Two dresses of white muslin are only necessary; the material should be fine and very clear, so as to wash easily.

[ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small][merged small]

Indian muslin is decidedly the best for the purpose. The dresses should be made with plain skirts, plain low bodices, short sleeves, without any ornament -- in a word, what is the easiest to wash and pack. Then the trimmings are arranged on coarse, stiff muslin, and are made of green, blue, or pink silk, according to taste, in almost any form of ornament desired. Interlaced rings, grecques, triangles, straps ascending the skirt, a series

of narrow pinked flounces. Thus a trimming for the skirt, a berthe, and a bordering for the sleeves (all arranged upon the stiff muslin) can be made. When the dress is to be worn, these trimmings require to be merely tacked in their

[graphic]

respective places, and a charmingly fresh toilette is the result. When the dress is soiled, the trimming is unpicked and the dress can be washed. If small flounces are used, they can be made of tarlatane instead of taffetas, which will be even less costly. By making a few of these trimmings before starting, any lady can pass an entire season with two simple evening dresses. I should not forget to mention that if the muslin is clear and of fine quality, it will require a white silk petticoat to be worn underneath it.

of plain silk. If crinolines are becoming smaller, dresses are being made longer and longer. In full dress a train is worn, but, luckily, for walking the dress can be fastened up. All bodies are cut square, and in front two long tails extend from it and widen as they descend. These are trimmed with a band of silk and embroidered with jet or crystal. This trimming reaches up the front of the dress and simulates braces. The back is pointed and has a large sash of the same kind of thing as the pattes in front.

White bodices and white pelerines are much worn in Paris at the present time. The Hortensia pelerine is the most coquettish which has yet been introduced; it is cut in the shape of a heart both at the front and back, but is open in front, while at the back there are two long ends in the form of coat basques. These are trimmed with Gandillot or Cluny guipure; chevrons of the same guipure describe epaulets, and these chevrons are repeated at the ends of the pelerine.

Jean and nankeen dresses are again coming into fashion, and will be worn in the country on simple occasions. The skirts will be gored, the bodice-or rather paletot-will fit the figure. The paletot will be trimmed either with simple white braid or narrow guipure; the sleeves plain, only large enough to allow of the hand to pass through, and without any ornament whatever. A great variety of buttons is used upon this style of costume. The most ordinary up to the most costly are all in vogue-from the simple thread gimp button to those made of chased silver. But the buttons most frequently adopted by the leaders of fashion are made either of ivory or mother-of-pearl, and are in the form of a star.

White or neutral-tinted grenadines and bareges have small patterns brocaded over them in bright colors. The trimming of the dress should be of the color of the pattern. All the fancy woollen dresses are made with paletots of the same material. The same trimming is put on over both dress and paletot. It consists of colored ribbon, either quilled or put on plain, or of scalloped borders of plain silk. Gimp cord is also used if the texture of the material is sufficiently firm to bear it. The shape is in general the short half-fitting paletot. Nothing is at once nicer and pleasanter to wear for demi-toilet than the dress and paletot of linos or mohair, and for summer, white bodices will be worn under the paletot, without any other body, by young married er unmarried ladies. The white bodice with colored skirt and wide band or sash makes a very pretty summer costume. The bodice may be of white or buff foulard instead of nansouk or muslin, the frequent washing of which may be a consideration. Ladies who wish to wear something more than merely a white bodice put on a small open jacket without sleeves over it. A colored silk jacket looks extremely well over a plain or figured white muslin bodice with full sleeves. The most fashionable sashes have a wide band, a large rosette on one side, and long lapels finished off with fringe. The pointed Swiss band, however, is still worn, as well as a great variety of bands, sashes and low bodices, of which our engravings give a better idea than any description could do. We shall only men tion one in particular that we saw lately. It was made of pink gros grain silk. The bodice was cut straight, very low in front and at the back, but it had wide braces coming over the shoulThe styles of looping skirts differ essentially. Gimp is found ders, and plaited epaulets; there was a round band, and at the to be too heavy at this season of the year, so it has given place back three long lapels pointed at the bottom, the centre one a to cross-cut bands of silk, which desend every breadth of the good deal longer than the two others. The bodice was entirely skirt as far as the knee. At the knee they form either a circle covered with white guipure lace, and bordered all round with a or a bow, which continues in a double band, and the skirt is narrow edging of the same. The silk epaulets alone were un-looped up by means of these in a fixed or permanent manner. covered; they were merely edged with lace. A white tulle Only the dressy toilettes, those which are made of gros grain or chemisette and full sleeves are worn under the bodice, and taffetas royal, and are cut with a train, fare drawn up by means finished off round the neck and wrists with a ruche of pink rib- of tirettes, but in these cases a highly ornamented white pettibon. The skirt was of plain white muslin with a deep hem. coat is worn underneath. Muslin is the material generally selected for these dressy petticoats, and they are frequently trimmed with Valenciennes flounces sewn on without any fulness, alternately with a row of embroidered insertion, or with what is very durable and less costly, viz., a row of guipure d'art insertion. When the guipure d'art was first introduced it was called the point de Cluny. But muslin petticoats can also be worn plain, with a deep flounce at the back headed with a ruche.

Some of our readers will be astonished to learn that shoes are again to be seen for out-door morning wear; yet such is the case. They are made of patent leather, and are cut high-a sort of compromise between a boot and a shoe; and in front they are ornamented with large cut steel buckles. They are, in fact, exactly like the shoes which were worn very generally some fifteen years ago.

with color to represent grecques, trefoils, fleurs de lys, &c., exactly as nainsook was stitched on clear muslin sleeves and collars last season. Other petticoats are ornamented with narrow tucks, alternating with four rows of fine braiding. These braided designs, carried out with tubular braid, are also worn upon twilled petticoats, which, when well starched, are highly

A color called fil d'or is now very much affected. It is brown, with rather a more golden hue on it than that generally known as havannah. Glacé silks are coming into fashion again, and this color is particularly suited to a glacé silk. A variety of this color is made by a white ground being shot with gold, and is charming for either full walking dress or small evening party, This in Chamberry gauze will be very much worn for evening dress over a silk petticoat. Chamberry gauze is becoming more and more the fashion for evening dress, and is worn both plain Very fine calico petticoats are trimmed in a different manner; and figured. It is very much trimmed, and even the under-the prettiest have applications of cross-cut hands, stitched on skirt has small flounces at the bottom, so that it is never a very economical toilet. Light checked silks are preferred by those ladies whose luxury of dress consists in its freshness, and is it not better to have three new dresses at four or five shillings a yard than one that must be worn soiled because it has originally cost three times the price? Besides, there are so many ingenious ways of relieving the simplicity of dress by its trim-effective, and are preferred to pique ones. Braided dresses, both ming. Thus upon light silks this year are placed rouleaux of plain silk, to which are added a little fringe heading of the two colors in the dress. Nothing is easier to make or more pretty than rows of cross plaits alternately with small fringe from the hem of the dress to the knees. Nearly all bodies have basques; therefore we must speak of them. The body is cut open and square in front, with lapels that form braces across the chest and a cape behind, and small square basques all round the waist. The lapels are lined with plain silk, and the basques are trimmed with a cross piece and fringe. Over this is worn a small plaited collar, and should youthfulness be desired the body must be opened to the waist and kept together by bands

of white and unbleached linen, will be much worn in the country this season. Red and coral braid especially are used in ornamenting these costumes; they are fastened down the front with either ivory or mother-of-pearl buttons.

The style of dressing the hair in the morning and that adopted in the evening differ materially. In Paris, for the evening, curls, crêpes, and frizzed bands and wide plaits, are worn at the very top of the head; but the effect is closer, not near so extravagant as last season. For the morning, the plait as a coconet, and the hair waved and slightly turned from the temples and combed over a frizette at the back, is the prevailing coiffure.

[graphic][merged small][merged small][merged small]
[graphic]
[blocks in formation]

No. 1. reader, so that they had besieged her, after supper, to lay aside her work.

They made a pretty picture, these six or eight girls and four gentlemen. The girls looked lovely. Youth, health, and tasteful dress, would have made almost any one appear well, and this group was not wanting in fair faces. Some of them were more beautiful than Cicely Graham; yet Mr. Warburton's eyes never wandered far from her. Partly the low, clear, musi

[graphic][merged small]

cal voice, and partly the fine, noble countenance, charmed him singularly. Or was it her perfect rendering of the first poem in the book-identitying herself, as it were, with Enid, the true wife, whose sweet faith won her husband's heart from his cruel

distrust?

There was a silence for some moments after the sound of her voice died away. The girls said, "Oh !" in a relieved tone. That seemed to be a signal for discussion. Various comments followed. I think the ladies, as a general thing, were inclined to blame Geraint, while one or two of the gentlemen stood up stoutly for him.

[ocr errors]

suasion to induce others to contribute their share. f the entertainment. If a plain or poorly dressed girl was neglected, he went to entertain her. Youth and beauty appeared to have no special claim on him. More than one young lady had made herself particularly interesting, and been provoked by his indifference, I was about to say, but that doesn't at all express it. He treated every one so nearly alike—courteously, but never warmed toward any one person. The girls complained of this generalness at first, and then accepted it for its full value. He had attended Cicely before, from church, but be had never taken her hand in this manner-never drawn her up so closely. "I might have gone to court in my faded silk, though I And as they went out under the starlight sky of October, be tnink that very unreasonable," exclaimed Rose Gordon, flash-pressed the soft fingers in his. She thrilled to the touch. They ing back some shining chestnut curls, "but I wouldn't have followed the others to the corner, and then he drew ber sudbeen so good and obedient afterwards; no, not for the sake of denly around. King Arthur himself.”

"Let us go this way," he began. "It is longer, but I have

"Not if you loved as Enid did? Think what a difference it a good deal to say." must make in one's feelings."

It was Cicely Graham who spoke. Sidney Warburton was studying her face closely. He had the habit people call "lookicg two ways at once." When he chose to keep you in ignorance of the true direction of his eyes, he could do it very easily. And Cicely never imagined he saw the little flush that came up with her words.

"No indeed, I'm not so meek as you, Cicely, nor as-aswell, I mean I don't think the men have all the perfection on their side. My Geraint will tell me what he wishes of me, before I don any faded dress and follow him through a wilderness of brigands."

"And if any one said to you, Miss Graham, 'I charge you, ask not, but obey,' what would you do?"

And with these words Mr. Warburton raised his eyes full upon her. Her lids drooped until the long lashes shadowed her cheeks, where an uncertain pink struggled. Generally she had no color save in her lips. And as so many eyes turned towards her, the pink deepened into crimson.

She understood intuitively what must come. And though she had never looked upon him in the light of a lover, he had unconsciously become her ideal for all that was noble and manly. If he had never spoken, the niche might have been filled. But his tone that meant so much caused love to spring up full statured.

"You

"I enjoyed the poem greatly to-night," he said. think you could trust the man implicitly whom you loved ?'' "I hope never to love any one unworthy of my highest trust," she answered, gravely. Yet her voice had a little tremble in it that his quick ear caught.

"We are quite old friends," was his next essay. "I have known you ever since I first came to Haddon-two years. And in that time one can learn to judge a person quite correctly, I think; do you not?"

"It depends on the advantages acquaintance offers." "Shouldn't you feel you understood me well enough to discuss me with-Rose Gordon, for instance ?''

If there had been a moon, he must have seen the scarlet

"I hardly know," she answered, slowly. "I think I would flush in her face. go, loving as she did."

"Yes," laughed Rose, "I can answer for her. She is obedience itself."

"I have never been commanded to any great extent, and perhaps no woman can feel quite sure of herself," Cicely resumed slowly, almost as if thinking aloud.

"No more discussion, girls. Do you know how late it is?'' There followed a good deal of laughing and talking; a merry badinage about obedience, in which Rose Gordon's wilfulness came out strongly. Mr. Warburton kept up a conversation with her, until the gay child quite flattered herself she had made an impression.

But, as I said before, the other and unnoticed look was bestowed upon Cicely.

"If you have no company, I shall be happy to attend you home to-night," he said, in a whisper.

She was surprised, but when she found he was holding her hand until she answered, quietly replied, "Very well," and then felt a little frightened at her odd reply.

Nellie Bayne and Mr. Grey went in the same direction, and after the little group had attired themselves, the girls kissed each other "good-night." Nellie exclaimed

"Come, Cecily."

L "Miss Graham is under my protection," said Mr. Warburton, on one of those frank, assured tones that imply so much. And then he drew her hand through his arm.

There are moments in one's life when a whole future of pleasure or pain rushes over the soul. With Cicely it was pleasure. She had known Mr. Warburton a long while, met him in society, and received many polite attentions from him. But it was generally conceded that he either had an attraction elsewhere, or was not a marrying man.

"Because," he resumed, when he found her answer did not come readily, "I don't wish to take you entirely by surprise in what I shall say. I love you, Cicely. Do you think you could become my wife?''

She did start visibly. He drew her closer, took both her hands in his, and walked very slowly.

"I have admired you a long while," he began, after a pause. "Some incidents that have occurred to me lead me to think frequently about you. To-night it came to me suddenly, while you were reading, that I loved you. I said over in my heart, with Geraint: Here, by God's grace, is the one voice for me.'"

How still the streets were! Cicely heard her heart beat in great bounds.

"Have you any answer for me, or must I wait? Have I been too hasty? It is after all a sort of Enid wooing. Yet when I say I love you, I have uttered the sweetest and dearest truth of my whole life. I have nothing better to lay at your feet."

He paused suddenly, and gazed into her face. She raised her hand to shut the blushing vision from his searching eyes. He smiled a little, a sweet, tender smile, and said, softly, "I think I can interpret; may I?"

She gained a sudden sweet confidence.

"Yes," she made answer; "I love you. I know it, although my heart and head are in wildest confusion. It is to sudden, and then I never dreamed—”

"That we could be lovers! Well, I am not quite blind and dumb. I have some human wants and hopes, though they are of slow growth. I liked you so much! even before I thought of love. Teli me again that you love me-trust me !" She said it in a very satisfactory way. The town clock steck Two years before he had come to Haddon as one of the part-twelve. She would have quickened her pace somewhat, but ne ners in a somewhat exte, sive chemical manufactory. He was did not mean to be defrauded of one second. agreeable, fine-looking, gene.ous, and ready for any pleasure,

They re-ched her residence, and he took a survey of her by whether in-doors or out. So Le was included in everything, the ball-amp-a curious, ponctrating scrutiny. Then, drawfrom a charitable subscription to a quiet evening party. Heing a long breath, he said: rarely danced or sang company, but spared no pains or per

You trust me hapfeldy ?"

« AnkstesnisTęsti »