66

village of Schwyz hangs on the slope of a mountain, surrounded by gardens and orchards. It is the lake, with its mountains and wild rocks, and green and sunny on these hills, and the view of lovely villages and meadows, richly varied."

Herr Mugge mentions that the people of On landing at Brunnen (on the lake of the Uri take a very high toll from travellers on Four Cantons) the whole land of Schwyz lies this road; but he does not mention that the spread out in a beautiful amphitheatre before you. snow often lies twenty feet deep on it, and Fruitful and well cultivated, it extends from here to the Rigi and the Rossberg, and enclosing the that it is their business to clear it away. grand rocky pyramids of the Mythe and the HaIt was on this road, and along the shores ken, to the Lake of Zurich. It is full of mounof the lake of the Four Cantons, in the tains and valleys, and flowery meads. To the valleys of Schwyz, that several severe strug- right opens the wild romantic gorge, twenty miles gles took place between the French, Aus- long, of the Muetta Valley, full of rich peasants trians, and Russians, in 1798 and 1799. To- and full-blooded people of the old stock. The wards the end of September in the latter year, Suwarrow crossed the St. Gotthard from Italy, with 30,000 Russians, driving the French before him. The latter had blown up the Devil's Bridge; Suwarrow cut down the wood and made a new bridge. In the hamlet of Schwyz itself there is The inhabitants of the valley where it had little to be seen; it contains, of course, the grown complained indeed, for the trees had buildings necessary to its small political life, protected them from destruction, by afford- and the Council House has its portraits of ing shelter from the falling avalanches: but successive Landammans, all chosen for centheir complaints did not disturb Suwarrow. turies from the families of Reding and "Things like this you know must be in Abyberg: but these are not worth looking time of war." His whole army crossed at merely as works of art. The descendover, beat the French, and at length effect- ants of these and a dozen other families ed a junction with that of the Prince Kor- which have furnished Colonels, Majors, sakoff; and considering the nature of the and Deputies to the Diet, live in comparaway, it is not surprising that much of the tively stately-looking houses, surrounded baggage was lost, and that five hundred with gardens dignified by box hedges and Russians disappeared over the precipice; iron gates. but this was a trivial accident in the estimation of Suwarrow.

The canton of Schwyz, the third of the original confederacy, containing about forty thousand inhabitants, as many as Uri and Unterwalden put together, has always been regarded at the same time as the bulwark of pure democracy, as it is there understood, and the most zealous supporter of the power of the Catholic church.

"The Jesuits have an Educational Institute

here, established in 1837, with the assistance of the lies, which had some hundreds of scholars, but Abbot of Einsiedeln and some of the principal famiThe Schwyzers, however pious, have no great appears now to be somewhat on the decline. partiality to the order. Indeed they refused for a long time to have anything to do with them; perhaps not so much on account of their principles, as because the rich monks in many of the convents hate the Jesuits, and fear, not without reaThe government, though in general reson, a diminution of their revenues from the influsembling that of the other pastoral cantons, ence of these learned and crafty warriors of the has been subjected to some modifications, Church of Rome. In 1758 the Landsgemeinde calculated to lead the way to further pro- rejected the proposal even of a Reding to admit gress, such as the separation of the ad- them, although he offered to the canton a sum of ministrative from the judicial authorities, 80,000 guilders and a large estate as an induceand the limitation of the hitherto life-long ment; but the Jesuits have found their way here duration of offices. The communal system, they still do not appear very popular. I talked at last without any one giving a penny, though with respect to economical rights, is, how- with one of the men of Schwyz on the subject, ever, the same as in the other original can- and he spoke out very freely. us much harm at present,' said he, and don't Alps and woods,-meadow and moor- seem to meddle with what does not concern them; land, belong to the old races who were if they did we would soon drive them out again. the inhabitants of the country centuries They are clever fellows and manage to bring ago; later comers obtained only political many into their net, but they have not many real privileges. There is little of trade or manu- however, help us here and there, buy many friends among the people. They lend money, facturing industry in Schwyz, the occupa- things at a good price. They use a great many tion of the people being almost wholly pas- wares for their schools, give employment to toral. There is little even of agriculture. tradespeople and mechanics, and many strangers

tons.

'They don't do

come to visit them, whom they send to the inns, the landlords of which are on good terms with them; and you see,' Sir, he added, laughing, for he was himself an innkeeper, that's the reason why I don't like myself to say much against the Fathers."

at once.

nies, and to one of these every citizen must belong. They cannot at all understand how a man can be settled in a town, without taking his place in a corporation; as if, according to the old Germanic notion, the protection of the individual could not be trusted to the state and the law, but must be the especial care of some association whose busiThe great Protestant Canton of Berne ness it should be to protect its members. Every is distinguished, above all others, for its ad- company has its hall, its bank, its fund, apart vancement in agricultural science, and it is from all others; there are even associations of not less remarkable for the extreme order have estates and property in common. families, held together by private contract, which The famiand neatness which everywhere meet the lies of noble descent, the merchants, the butchers, eye; there are no open pits or heaps of ma- the tailors-all cling together; but it is not necesnure, such as may be seen at every door in sary that the members of the same company should the country of Zurich, offending two senses all carry on the same occupation. A man may The large houses, with their gal- have himself proposed in any company, and if he leries and rows of bright windows, handsome is accepted, buy his freedom, which in the richer The comdomestic offices and green lawns, look companies costs a considerable sum. pany of nobles alone refuses to admit any one who most invitingly, and give a pleasing testi- not of noble birth. These rich old families genemony to the prosperity of the inhabitants. rally live in great retirement on their estates in the The Berne people are the best farmers in all country, taking no part in public business, and Switzerland, and as they enjoy many natu- passing their time mostly in grumbling at the ral advantages, which they have turned to course affairs are taking. It is remarkable, too, the best account, they have found little that proud and worldly as these patricians formerly were, they have lately become immoderately necessity for giving their attention to manupious. Some of the most distinguished among factures, and are willing to leave these to them-the Hallwylls, the Wattenwyls, and others their neighbors in Zurich and Aargau.-have fallen from the faith for which their anThis may be partly explained from the his- cestors so valiantly contended, and returned to the tory of Berne. The patrician families of Catholic church the capital were nobles, who for many cen- "Berne is beyond comparison a less cheerful turies possessed considerable landed estates, place than Zurich. There are few coffee-houses and were, therefore, naturally induced to of its environs it is also greatly inferior to the or places of public amusement; and in the beauty turn their attention to agriculture. Those above-mentioned city. The terrace near the caof Zurich were merchants and manufac- thedral, indeed, whence you look down on the

turers.

"This exclusive occupation with agriculture seems to have communicated a certain heaviness and immobility to the character of the inhabitants of Berne, and, even when the dominion of the nobles was at an end, they felt little inclination to enter the lists with their more lively and active neighbors.

66

The city of Berne itself, with its vast houses, built of massive free-stone from the foundation to the gables-their stone staircases, and long, vaulted passages telling of their Burgundian origin, is a type of their weighty and immovable character. These solid, gloomy mansions, grey with age, and untouched by modern coloring or decoration, look like rows of castles, rooted deep as they are into the rocky ground. In one quarter, houses in a newer style are to be found; but in general, if one of these grand old habitations becomes unsafe, another is built up as nearly as possible in the same style. And thus it is in many other departments. The burghers of Berne cannot forget the time when they held dominion over all the surrounding country; and they cannot yet reconcile themselves to the modern system of equality, and the presumption of peasants seeking to share in their privileges

"There are in Berne eleven guilds or compa

is

river Aar, and part of the city, and beyond it, to
meadows, fields, and mountains-and especially
when the evening sun clothes the majestic ranges
of the Oberland in robes of radiance; this deserves
all that can be said of it: but there is no other
equal to this
In Zurich, long rows of
wagons, heavily laden with goods, to and from
many distant countries, are daily passing in and out.
In Berne there are scarcely any; and though many
travellers arrive, they are mostly on their way to
the Oberland, or the Lake of Geneva, and remain
a very short time.

"In Zurich, as I have said, the officers of government, including the Burgomasters, are to be met with, associating freely with the rest of the citizens in the coffee-houses and places of public amusement. They do not seek to envelope themselves in a cloud of mystic grandeur, which may be suitable enough to patricians and aristocrats, but not to the magistrates of a democracy. In Berne, the descendants of the ancient nobles have inherited all their exclusiveness. They never mingle among the people, far less make their appearance at coffee and beer-houses. The stiff, heavy, formal mode of life of Berne, in which every one confines himself to his own house, or to a limited circle of acquaintance, leaving the coffee-houses to students and young radicals, was strictly followed by the men who formed the go

vernment of Berne in 1846. Neither Neuhaus, | St. Gall-but they have the most effectual means nor the most distinguished of his colleagues, of protesting and petitioning and enlisting the press Fetcherin and Weber, ever showed themselves in against any laws to which they may object." public, but preserved the importance of their position."

Such rights, indeed, if merely existing on parchment, and not animated by the Neuhaus seems to have given great of- spirit of a people, avail little; and, in fence by placing at his door a bell, with a Berne, the old principles of action have still brass plate, on which was inscribed "Ici such power and force-the character of the on sonne et on attend." To keep people people in general is so opposed to innowaiting at his door while some one came to vation-every district, every community, open it, was thought a most unwarrantable clings so much to its old customs, that it assumption. It might have done very well will be long before this new constitution for a Schultheiss in the old times, but it and its objects will be really absorbed and was not now the time of day" for such airs assimilated, so as to become a part of the of superiority. His whole government had, national life.

however, been left far behind in the rapid "A reform of the poor-laws and of the system progress of the now victorious party, and of finance, was, however, what above all things their adherents in the clubs; and when, in-young Berne had at heart-and which this new judiciously, in our author's opinion, it undertook the prosecution of the Free-corps men, after having looked quietly on during their preparations," instead of proving its strength, it hollowed the ground under its

own feet."

constitution was intended to effect; but this it has out lively opposition; and yet, on this depends the only been able to do in part-and even that not withwhole success of an experiment, by which it has been attempted to raise Berne from the entangled historical deformities of the old German commonalty, to the freer position of a state constructed according to modern ideas. It is precisely this which gives so great an interest to its present position, and to the attempts of the young reform party.

The new constitution of 1846 has, of course, the advantage of standing upon the shoulders of its predecessor, by which it has "Before all things it is necessary, in German been enabled to remedy many of its defici- Switzerland, to sweep away the rude irregular ences. The system of indirect elections foundation on which Swiss life has hitherto resthas been wholly put aside the age at ed-and to strike a mortal blow at the manifold which all civic rights may be exercised, re- hindrances and separations by which its progress duced from 23 to 20, and the competency has been obstructed."

At

to all offices of the republic, from the age of One of the most important paragraphs of 29 to 25. Every ten years a census is to the new constitution (paragraph 86) is be taken; and since in the short duration that which treats of an equalization of of offices lies, it is thought, the best se- public burdens in the various districts. curity for popular freedom in a republic-first it was desired that the whole poorthe Great Council is to be elected every funds should be made over to the Governfour years, instead of every six, as before. ment, which should take the duty of proAccording to the old constitution, the mem-viding for the poor wholly on itself-but bers of the chief tribunal, chosen by the this could not be carried. There are cerGreat Council, received their appointments tain cities and communes in Berne that for fifteen years; now they are to have them only for eight.

possess poor-lands of immense value, the In another particular also an immense in- tle or nothing, and are compelled to levy city of Mure, for instance; others have litcrease of power has been thrown into the heavy rates for the purpose. All the compopular scale. The Great Council itself munes who would have been losers by the must be dissolved and re-elected, if the ma- proposed new arrangement, raised a trejority of the people in the political assem-mendous opposition to it, and succeeded in blies demand it. On the requisition of obtaining a majority against it in the Con6,000 citizens, the matter must be put to stitutional Council-but the blow struck the vote. at the independence of the commonalties," (6 says our author, was felt throughout "Not less important is the regulation that all Switzerland. People in Zurich, where I new laws and ordinances whatever-before they are brought under discussion, must be made known was at the time, were quite frightened, and to the people time enough for them to express their prophesied that it would not come to good; opinion concerning them. In Berne the direct veto so firm is still the attachment to old sysis not indeed conferred on the people as it is in tems. Indeed, throughout Switzerland,

Berne by no means excepted, the attach- under the name of "Jeremias Gotthelf,"* ment to the freedom of communal life is was a zealous adherent of that of M. Neufar stronger than to that of the state." haus.

State with a view to their better administration; and

The schoolmasters-a body of far more "The utmost that could be effected was that se- consideration in Switzerland than with us curity should be given for the poor-funds, and that they should be placed under come control by the The state of popular education in Switzer-are more favorably disposed towards it. where it appeared that the funds were not sufficient land is, it appears, by no means so satisfacfor the support of the poor, the State should supply tory as has sometimes been supposed. Out at least one-half, but not more than two-thirds of of 70,000 children in Berne capable of rethe deficiency. By this, of course, a considerable ceiving instruction, scarcely 20,000, acburden is laid upon it, which must be supported cording to the testimony of the above-menby the citizens at large. tioned Jeremias Gotthelf, really received "Not less important, perhaps, is the second clause in the same paragraph, which sweeps away it; and of their proficiency we may form titles and feudal burdens of various kinds, order- some idea when we hear that the pupils of ing that they shall be purchased from the proprie- an elder class, at a school examination, tors for the half of the price stated in the law of confounded the three original Swiss Confethe 20th of December. On the other hand the derates with the three kings of Cologne, government undertakes not only to indemnify the and asserted that Goliath lost his life at proprietors, but to return to those who had pur- the battle of Sempach!

chased them at that higher rate one-half of the In this, and in many other departments,

purchase-money.

"It was quite natural that this measure should the party at present dominant in Switzerhave the warmest support of the small land- land is pledged to effect great improveowners, but the State will of course have several ments. How far it is likely to fulfil the millions to pay; it must be recollected, however, expectations it has held out to various that Berne has not only no national debt, but a classes of the community, and the hopes fund in her treasury of twenty millions of francs most difficult to realize, which were greatly collected in old times, and which is now destin- instrumental in raising it to its present posied to serve the worthy purpose of clearing off the tion, must now soon appear. We cannot last remains of the feudal burdens." be so far dazzled by the success which has The victory which Colonel Ochsenbein crowned the efforts of the victors, as not and his colleagues have achieved over their to perceive that they have obtained the rivals has, it appears, been so complete, prize by an act of unprincipled aggression, that the greater number of the members of wholly unworthy of the principles they prothe former government have not even been fess, and of the party to which they claim elected again as members of the Great to belong. History, however, presents us Council. with many examples of a usurped authority Neuhaus, so long the first man in the re- having been made the instrument of propublic, who struggled so manfully for the ducing ultimate good, not to the aggressors support of liberal principles, and who is as but to the aggrieved; and whatever sympathorough a radical as his successor, and as thy we may feel for the sufferers in the premuch opposed to the Jesuits and the Son- sent instance, we do not overlook the fact derbund, has returned to his place in the that the state of society in the old cantons, counting-house, and seldom, according to now overthrown, was one of utter stagnaMr. Mugge, is any voice raised to give ut- tion, wholly incompatible with the best interance to aught but blame of the man terests and the noblest tendencies of the whom at one time no one could praise human race. enough. Yet he possesses many qualifications most valuable in the chief of a party: courage, self-control, foresight, and an immovable strength of will. His manner is earnest and thoughtful, but eminently calculated to inspire confidence. Of his integrity a tolerable proof is offered in his present narrow circumstances.

*In our last number, our readers may possibly remember, we took occasion to introduce some of his clever and popular productions to their notice.

HENRY FIELDING. - A correspondent of Douglas Jerrold's Newspaper says—"It may not be generally the western suburbs of London, obscure and unknown to the public, that, in a humble lodging in known, resides the grandson and legitimate offspring The clergy of Berne are, with very few of the author of ' Tom Jones.' His present descendexceptions, opposed to the government of an is about 50 years of age, and albeit with the prestige of so great a name, and not without talent, Colonel Ochsenbein; and the well-known is I believe, wholly unknown to the literary world. "Parson Vizius," of Luzelflue, who writes He is happily provided with a small independence."

From Sharpe's Magazine. MEMOIR OF MARSHAL TURENNE.