remember his having told me of his visit to Arqua, when he brought the lady of his love, the fair Contessa Guiccioli to see the abode and tomb of Petrarch.

"She who knows his sonnets by heart," said Byron, "and who recites them as only an Italian mouth can pronounce the poetry of her country, was delighted with this little journey among the Euganean hills, and rendered it very delightful to me. Petrarch is the poetical idol of the women in Italy," continued he, "and no wonder, since if he serves not their cause in representing the passion of love, as so engrossing and despotic a one, as it sometimes is, he at least professes that such was its empire over him."

VICENZA. Palladio has enriched his birth-place with many specimens of his fine taste and skill; which, in despite of the absence of all other attractions, still draw many a traveller to Vicenza. Nowhere have I seen a worse inn, or streets so unclean, and crowded by a population more ill-looking. A sitting-room even in the least bad inn here is a luxury unknown; and no fewer than two beds occupy the greater portion of the chamber in which our repasts are served. Our courier, the most indefati

gable of his profession in endeavours to secure the comfort of his employers, shakes his head, shrugs his shoulders, and exclaims, "Patienza, Signora !” after each vain effort to procure a better room, or less disgusting looking food. Luckily, roasted chickens and omelets he can always manage to prepare; but even the poultry and eggs he has been compelled to go in search of himself.

The dinner provided for us, and which the host insisted on serving, consisted of some soup, composed of maccaroni floating in a tureen of warm water, powdered with cheese. A square piece of beef, compact and hard as the bee's-wax used in France for polishing floors; a lump of mutton, and a lump of pork, all served on the same dish. These were the pieces-de-rèsistance; and the entrés consisted of brains fried in oil, and salt fish stewed with olives. Our host seemed no less offended than surprised at our rejection of these dainties: and was only consoled by the assurance that though not eaten, payment would be made for them.

The palace here has been restored by Palladio, and reflects great credit on his skill and judgment. It contains some good pictures, chiefly allegorical, a style which, whether in painting or literature, I admire less than any other.

There is a fine library at Vicenza, founded by a Count Bertolo, and in honour of him called the Bertoliana. The frequency of bequests of libraries and valuable collections in every branch of science and natural history, in Italy, reflects great credit on the liberality and patriotism of the donors; who in thus enriching their native towns lay the foundation of literature and science, the humanizing effects of which have so salutary an influence on the happiness of the inhabitants.

Vanity, that stimulant which excites mortals into so many praiseworthy as well as foolish actions, is often attributed to those who have bequeathed valuable collections away from their families for the public advantage; but admitting that this puerile motive may have led to such gifts, the effect is so good that surely the cause may be pardoned, for vanity never was displayed in a more laudable manner. To how many beneficial consequences have such bequests paved the way? The power of gratifying the thirst for knowledge inherent in many youthful minds, the emulation excited among those who might not otherwise have been tempted to study, the love of learning that grows with the habit of acquiring it, are all fostered by the liberality of him who places within reach of his townsmen the trea

sures collected during his life, and the desire of the honourable distinction of having his name identified with his gift, is a blameless vanity, forgotten in the gratitude felt for his beneficence.

The Olympic theatre at Vicenza was designed by Palladio. It is too small, notwithstanding the admirable skill in perspective evinced to counteract this defect, to admit of its producing the effect so classical a building ought to produce; nevertheless, in purity of design and elegance of execution, it is not unworthy of him who planned it. It is lucky for the fame of Palladio, that the design for this theatre was given previously to the discovery of those at Pompeii and Herculaneum; for the resemblance, particularly to the latter, is so striking, that it would have exposed him to the suspicion of having copied it. I could have fancied myself in a Roman theatre of two thousand years ago, so perfectly antique is the style and decorations of this of Vicenza; and the solidity of the immoveable scenery and ornaments encouraged the illusion.

It is not a little creditable to the academy whence this theatre takes its name, that it was erected by the desire and at the expense of its members; who, embued with the love of classic lore, wished that the scene, in which their representations of the tragedies

of the ancients were to be enacted, should resemble that of the time in which they were produced. Here was performed the dramas of Sophocles and Euripides, not by ordinary actors, but by the members of the Olympic Academy; and the strictest attention is said to have been paid to the costumes, manners, and customs of the age and country where the scene of the tragedy was laid.

Few towns have ever stood more indebted to one of her sons than has Vicenza to Palladio, who has erected buildings in it that will long claim the admiration of travellers, giving to this comparatively small place an interest and attraction rarely to be found in the proudest modern cities. But the skill and taste of this admirable architect would have failed to enrich his native town as it has done, had it not found constant employment, furnished by the wealthy and great of his townsmen. Hence arose those stately palaces that still command attention; and prove how well Palladio understood the application of his art to the erection of dwellings, in which elegance and fitness reign.

The Valmarano Palace offers one of the finest specimens of Palladio's taste and skill, and the others, built from his designs, not less in number than eighteen or twenty, if less perfect, are still