Fig. 3.—Toilet of dove-gray silk. The gored skirt has a deep gathered flounce of the same, which is surmounted by two bias bands and a narrow fluting of green silk. Higher up is a single band between two rows of fluting. The puffed overskirt falls in a deep point at each side; it is lined with green silk, and bordered with a fluting to match. The points are turned back and attached by large green bows. Casaque à la militaire. The buttons, bands, revers, bows, and ruffles are all of green silk. Linen collar and undersleeves. Hat of black silk, trimmed with loops of green ribbon and a long scarf of gray silk. A cluster of roses and foliage crosses the top.

Fig. 4. Dress of armure favorite foulard. The round skirt is trimmed with three groups of narrow flounces; the first has five, the second four, and the third but three. Each group is headed by a band of silk, embroidered with a darker shade. The open tunic has two flounces and a heading and is draped at each side. The close-fitting casaque has five basques. The straight sleeves have deep cuffs. Linen chemisette, with large collar. Undersleeves to match. Bonnet of English straw, trimmed with loops of mauve velvet, black lace, and a trailing spray of white convolvulus, with foliage.

Fig. 5. Costume of black silk. The round skirt has a very deep flounce, edged with ruches of white silk; these are partly covered by a fall of rich black lace, with a ruched heading of black silk ribbon. The flounce is surmounted by a narrower ruching of white and black. The tunic is rounded in front, and forms a large pouf at the back; it is trimmed like the skirt. The Pompadour corsage and pagoda sleeves are finished with ruchings of white and black silk and white lace. Ceinture of black gros-grains, tied at the back in a bow without ends. Undersleeves of white lace. A narrow black velvet ribbon confines the white lace chemisette. Velvet ribbons in the bair.

Fig. 6.-Dress of pale-blue merino. The round skirt has a deep flounce, cut on the cross, gathered and sewn on with a double row of black ribbon velvet; this is headed by two narrower flounces in the same style. Tunic of white merino, open in front, and describing two pointed wings at the side; at the back the tunic is rounded, full, and looped up at each side with a strap to match, which strap terminates with a point. The trimmings consist of a bouillon and a row of narrow velvet. The bodice is slightly open in front, and has no sleeves. Blue gros-grain sash, with several loops at the back. The blue sleeves have deep mousquetaire cuffs. Rice straw toquet, ornamented with corn flowers and large white daisies.

Fig. 7.-Riding habit of blue cloth. The open basque of the close-fitting corsage has revers of blue silk cloth both at the back and front. Straight sleeves, with silk cuffs. Hussar jacket of blue drap de velours, trimmed with black silk braid and confined by a heavy black silk cord and tassel. Escarcelle to match.

Cambric collar and undersleeves. Hat of black velvet, with black feathers and aigrette.

Fig. 8.-Riding habit of gray cloth, striped with black. The stripes of the close-fitting basquine are much finer than those of the skirt. Loose paletot of white cloth. This is cut quite low, and is attached in front by a bow of black silk ribbon. A larger bow is placed on the left shoulder. Open sleeves. Collarette and undersleeves of cambric and lace. Hat of white straw. The broad border is lifted on one side, and lined with black velvet. A long scarf of maroon-colored silk gauze is knotted at the back beneath a tuft of white feathers.

Fig. 9.-Dress of straw-colored merino. The round skirt has a very deep flounce, which is closely-plaited and divided near the top by a broad bias band of silk to match. Black lace, slightly gathered, borders the upper edge of the band. This heading is repeated. The second skirt forms a rounded tablier and square pouf. The basquines of the close corsage are rounded both at the front and back. The sleeves are large and flowing. Silk bands, lace, and flutings of merino compose all the trim

Fig. 10.-Visiting toilet of pale-green silk. The half-train skirt has six gathered flounces. These are pinked out; two are very deep, and all are put on with a heading. Silk buttons fasten the close corsage. The basques are rounded in front, and form a fluted postillon at the back. The trimming is a pinked-out ruching. A similar ruching and a very deep ruffle confine the full sleeve. The silk ceinture is fastened a little at the side by a large bow. Lace undersleeves. Hat of fine English straw, ornamented with white feathers; a long plume falls at the back. Fig. 11.-Dress of lavender-colored silk. The long gored skirt is trimmed with two narrow fluted flounces, each surmounted by a broader double ruching of white and black lace. The second skirt forms a large pouf, bordered with lace. Double ruchings also trim the small jacket, with coat-shaped basques and open sleeves. Lace chemisette and undersleeves. Black silk cravat. Hat of white silk. A wide black silk ribbon encircles the high crown and falls in floating ends at the back.

Fig. 12.-Round skirt of dark-blue poult-de-soie. The deep flounce is arranged in large plaits, which are fastened down by small puffs. Tunic-jacket of silver-gray poult-de-soie. The folds of this skirt are united and fastened, like the abbé galant, on the left shoulder by a large knot of silver-gray ribbons, with tassels to match. Rows of tassel-fringe complete the trimming. The ceinture and bow, the loops which lift the skirt at the sides, as well as the revers of the large sleeves, are all of blue silk. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Auvergnat hat of gray silk, trimmed with blue velvet and black plumes.

Fig. 13.-Round skirt of green poult-de-soie. This has four ruffled flounces, headed by a broad fluting, which is divided near the edges. Overdress of black poult-de-soie. The full skirt is cut in small points, bound with the same, and tipped with long silk ornaments. A second row of piping trims the back. Silk puffings and pointed ends lift the skirt at the sides. Black buttons fasten the close corsage; this and the straight sleeves are trimmed with ruffles, silk ornaments and piping. A large bow and ruffle attach the ceinture at the back. Lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of black silk and lace, crossed by sprays of foliage.

Fig. 14.-Round dress of gray alpaca. The two fluted flounces graduate in width; each is set on with a heading, and surmounted by three rows of black velvet ribbon. The tunic is lifted at the sides, and open at the back, and is trimmed with a flounce and two rows of velvet; the fluted sash-ends and shaped jacket have but one row above the flutings; the straight sleeves have cuffs to correspond. Velvet buttons fasten the fronts. Cambric collar and undersleeves.

Fig. 15.-Walking dress of blue merino. The skirt is arranged in large box-plaits. The full pouf is ruffled. Close high corsage, with large open sleeves; these are trimmed at the inner sides by puffings of white merino, crossed by narrow bands of black velvet. The small jacket has shaped fronts, which cross and are fastened by two large velvet buttons. A velvet band borders the jacket and sleeves. Lace undersleeves and collar. Velvet bow. Round hat of black velvet, with satin ribbons and a long white plume.

Fig. 16.-Toilet of silver-gray poult-de-soie. The half-train skirt has a deep plaited flounce, surmounted by a full puffing and ruching. Jet buttons fasten the close corsage. Black lace and jet ornaments trim the straight sleeves. The train tunic of black satin is puffed and bordered with the jet trimming and two rows of lace. Three tabs of this trimming fall up the front of the skirt. Silver-gray ceinture and bow, with long ends. The drapery of the corsage is of black satin, trimmed to correspond. Collar and undersleeves of black and white lace. Bonnet of white silk and black lace, ornamented with roses and trailing foliage.

Fig. 17.-Dress à deux jupes of violet silk. At the bottom of the underskirt is a broad plaited trimming of the silk. The upper skirt is cut out square in front, and is edged by a narrow fluted trimming edged at each side by a band of violet velvet ribbon, the whole terminated by fringe of the same color. The front of this skirt is fastened by buttons, extending to the waist.

train, as well as the bouffant, are edged by a flounce of white lace, headed by a garland, which is carried up the sides of the skirt to the waist. The bouquets are surrounded by lace continued from the flounce. The corsage is trimmed en bertha, by rows of narrow white lace, headed by a garland like those on the skirts, and on each shoulder is placed a rosc with a spray of foliage. At the back the garland forms a heading for a small loose mantelet of white lace, which starts from the top of the corsage, and falls over the bouffant.

Fig. 21.-Ball toilet of white tarletane. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed by four flounces, falling over each other, and each edged by two bands of narrow sky-blue ribbon. The top flounce is headed by a broader ribbon, edged on each side by narrow white lace. The front of the skirt is covered by a deep rounded tablier of white tarletane, similarly trimmed, but with three instead of four flounces. At the sides are two deep pointed

paniers of sky-blue silk, united at the back by a long chain of bows starting from the waist. These paniers are edged by white lace, put on with a heading and a band of ribbon, and are caught up just below the hips, and fastened by bouquets composed of corn-flowers and wheat-ears, and surrounded by lace. The corsage is of sky-blue silk; it is trimmed by a bertha of white lace, headed by a narrow band of sky-blue ribbon, and on each shoulder, as well as on the chest, is a bouquet like those on the paniers. Ceinture of sky-blue ribbon, fastened in front by a small rosette.

Fig. 22.-Dress of olive-green cashmere. The graduating flounce of the long skirt is bordered and headed with black velvet; it outlines a tunic opening at the sides; above each opening is a large velvet bow. Flounces border the shaped tunic. Ruffles and bands trim the close corsage and straight sleeves. A loop-rosette fastens the vevet ceinture at the back. Embroidered collar and undersleeves.