Puslapio vaizdai
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with long points lined with maize foulard; these points are | Bodice half high at the back and open in front, where it forms turned up and fastened to the waistband by a bow of white lace. Bodice open en châle. Large sleeves, with crevés at the back, to show a puff of maize foulard fastened by a lace bow. Hat of white straw with wide brim, turned up behind, and trimmed with buttercups and a long white feather.

Fig. 4. Visiting toilet of pale lavender silk. The flounce of the lower skirt is headed by a broad bias band, scalloped at both edges. A satin band of a darker shade divides it in the centre. The upper skirt forms a rounded tablier and tunic. Two bias bands head the scallops; the open sleev s are trimmed to correspond. Black silk casaque; the fronts cross; the skirt is shaped; there are no sleeves; rich black lace is employed for trimming; the silk ceinture fastens in front beneath a cluster of large loops; lace collar and undersleeves; bonnet of lavender silk and black lace with a blush rose, buds, and leaves.

Fig. 5.-Dress of pearl-gray poplin. The lower skirt has three flounces and a broad fluting confined at each edge by a silk cord. The second skirt is trimmed with a fluting and heavy white silk fringe. The close casaque is similarly trimmed. Deep ruffles finish the sleeves; cambric collar and undersleeves white chip hat with bows of blue ribbon and white marabout feather. A long vail of blue gauze falls at the back.

Fig. 6.-Evening toilet. Train slip of white glacé silk, with puffings of white tulle, headed by scalloped bands of corn-colored satin. Garlands of flowers loop the tulle overdress at each side. Low puffed corsage and short sleeves. These are all trimmed with bands and muslin flutings. Satin ceinture, with loops and ends. Flowers upon the corsage and in the hair.

two points at the waist; a large bow at the back; a plastron, with points to simulate a waistcoat, fills the opening of the bodice, and is fastened down the centre with three pink bows. Long pagoda sleeves; white tulle fichu crossed over the chest ; pink ribbon round the throat; pink bow in the hair.

Fig. 12.-Round green silk skirt, trimmed with a tablier of five graduated plaitings. Each plaiting is headed with a row of black ribbon velvet and a cross-band of green silk, and each terminates at both ends with a plaiting to match, arranged on the cross, and fastered in the centre with a band of black velvet and green silk. This trimming is reproduced on the back of the skirt, but with three rows instead of five; tunic trimmed to correspond; high bodice, with basques. A plaiting and velvet are laid on to simulate a collarette, and two rows of velvet to simulate a pelerine. Waistband fastening in front with a bow similar to that in the collarette. Straw hat, ornamented with elder flowers, and with black and green ribbons.

Fig. 13.-Dress of white tarletane, with a deep plaited flounce round the bottom. Long tunic, draped and looped up in several places with sprays of lilac. Waistband of gros-grain silk, fastened behind with a spray of lilac. Low round bodice, buttoned in front, and ornamented with a drapery of tarletane and sprays of lilas on each shoulder; very short sleeves. Diadem of lilac, with long spray falling on the chignon.

Fig. 14.-Dress of maize silk, with plain skirt. Tunic of China crape of the same shade as the dress; it is very short in front, with train behind, and trimmed with Bruges lace, surmounted with black velvet and a fluting of silk. Three velvet bows ornament each side, and join the front of the tunic to Fig. 7.-Promenade toilet. Petticoat of dark-green silk. the back. Two very large sash-ends are trimmed to match the Overdress of pearl-gray silk. Three gathered flounces, each tunic, and form a second skirt over the train. Bodice open in headed by a fluting of green silk, trim the skirt en tablier. Louis XV. style, trimmed with velvet and lace. Large pagoda Three others outline a rounded tunic. Flutings trim the close-sleeves, with bracelet above the elbow of velvet and lace, and fitting casaque and large sleeves; these are also confined by green bands and bows with ends. A bow with long ends fastens the waistband. Lace collar and undersleeves. Diadem bonnet of fine straw, bound and trimmed with narrow black velvet. A white lace vail falls from the large cluster of flowers and foliage at the top.

Fig. 8.-Costume of Havana foulard. The round skirt has two gathered and pinked-out flounces, each surmounted by a band of pearl-gray silk, embroidered with Havana-color. The tunic is open in front. The back forms a full pouf. A band with gray silk tassel-fringe composes the trimming. The close basquine and straight sleeves are trimmed to correspond; the latter are finished by deep ruffles. Lace collarette and undersleeves. Hat of fine rice straw with Havana-colored ribbon and white marabout feather.

Fig. 9.-Dinner toilet. The underdress of white tulle has six flounces, dotted with bows of corn-colored ribbon. Corn-colored silk tunic. This is quite short in front, deep at the back, and is edged with a bias band and deep silk tassel fringe to match. Bows confine the fronts. The corsage is heart-shaped with full ruffled sleeves. Pelerine and flowing sleeves of silk with narrower bands and fringe. Lace ruff. A bow attaches the pelerine. Lace cap, framed in loops of corn-colored ribbon.

Fig. 10.-Toilet of straw-colored foulard. The skirt is trimmed round the bottom with a thickly-plaited flounce, surmounted by a cross-cut band, a row of white embroidery, and a fluted heading. This trimming is repeated again above the flounce, the second skirt forming a round apron in front, square and puffed behind. Bodice with round basque plaited behind. It is trimmed with a jabot, three superposed bands, white embroidery and fluting to match the second skirt. Hanging sleeves. Straw hat, ornamented with a gauze vail and bunch of flowers.

Fig. 11. Evening toilet. Round skirt of gray silk, bordered with a gathered flounce, having a double heading, the latter fastened down with a cross-band to match. A similar trimming on a smaller scale is repeated two inches higher; long train, edged with white guipure and with two cross-bands of gray silk. Short tunic to match the train, but above the second heading there are two rows of guipure insertion. The tunic is looped up at both sides under a gray bow, composed of loops only.

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fastened with a velvet bow. Maize satin shoes.

Fig. 15. Costume of white piqué. The round skirt is trimmed with five Russian plaitings, headed with bands of black silk braid, dotted with white. The flounced tunic is open in front, and gathered up at the side-seams. Plain bodice with ruffled coat-sleeves. The shaped jacket is sleeveless, and trimmed to correspond with the skirt. For pattern of jacket and tunic, see our large sheet of tissue paper.

Fig. 16.-Toilet of blue silk striped with black. The round skirt has four bias flounces, the lower of which is quite deep; the upper one is sewn on with a heading. The open tunic forms a bouffant; the fronts have double ruffles. The ruffled casaque is cut open at the back. The trimming upon the large sleeves simulates openings. Hat of white straw with a white marabout feather.

Fig. 17.-Dress of blue faille. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed by a broad flounce of jonquil-colored faille. This flounce is edged by two frills of blue faille, and headed by two frills of the jonquil color, above which are three bias bands, one of jonquil, and the others of blue, faille. The whole of this trimming is surmounted by two upright gauffered frills of jonquil faille. At the back of each of the skirts are two broad square shaped tabs of jonquil faille, edged and trimmed like the skirt, and bouffants at the top, and in front is a round draped tablier of jonquil faille, similarly trimmed. The corsage is of jonquil faille, and has at the back a deep square tab, edged like the rest of the dress, and surmounted by the bows and floating ends of the ceinture, which is composed of bands of blue and jonquil silk. Similar but narrower bands, edged by a gauffered frill, are carried round the neck and down the front of the corsage. The sleeves are wide at the wrists, and are cut up at the back, and trimmed like the other portions of the dress. Bonnet of white lace and blue ribbon.

Fig. 18.-Dress à deux jupes, and Veston en suite, of gray silk. The bottom of the lower skirt is trimmed by a flounce with very little fullness, headed by a bias band of gray silk, bound on each side by cerise silk, above which are placed, at equal distances, two similar bands. The bottom of the upper skirt is edged by a tassel-fringe of gray silk, headed by two bias bands of cerise silk, and is draped at each side beneath a large gray silk rosette with a cerise centre, and bound with cerise. The

rows of which are carried up the
centre of the back. The sleeves
are similarly trimmed. Straw
bonnet, trimmed by roses and
white lace.

Fig. 20.-Toilet of pearl-gray
foulard striped with green. The
very deep bias flounce is headed
by a passementerie trimming and
fringe of green silk. A similar
trimming edges the pearl-gray
tablier and tunic. At each side
is a large green bow with ends.
Fringe edges the basque of the
plain corsage. The striped sleeves
are ruffled and trimmed, and
finished with bows. Lace collar
and undersleeves. White straw
hat; the turned-up brim is lined
with quilling of green silk.
Green bow and band. White
feather. A bow attaches the
scarf-ends of white gaze-de-soie.

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veston has large flowing sleeves, and is trimmed with bands and fringe. Cerise silk buttons and collar. Lace collar and undersleeves. Hat of white straw, ornamented with a cluster of field flowers and loops of black ribbon.

Fig. 19.-Costume of cream-colored Batiste. The bottom of the lower skirt is trimmed by three flounces scalloped out at the edges, and trimmed by fringe of the same color; and each headed by a bias band of the batiste. The upper skirt is hollowed out at the sides, and is edged by a flounce of white guipure lace, headed by an insertion of similar lace, placed between bias bands of the batiste. Two rows of this trimming are carried up to the waist, at each side of the spaces hollowed out, and between are diamonds formed by bias bands. The veston is cut up at the back and at each side, and is trimmed by guipure lace, headed by the insertion and bias bands, two

sage; lace and ribbon with bows trim the short puffed sleeves. Shaped casaque of black dotted tulle, trimmed with lace and ribbon flutings. Large black rosettes fasten the casaque fronts and the ceinture.

Fig. 23.-Ball costume of pale blue crêpe de Chine. The long skirt is confined by bands of blue silk, and finished by large bows. The shaped tunic is edged by a puffing of the material, which is cut by rouleaux of gold-colored silk, and finished by a rich gold-colored fringe. The bands and bows are blue. A large bow supports the pouf. The ends are fringed. The low corsage is trimmed like the tunic. At each shoulder is a bow; another attaches the

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Fig. 21.-Ball costume. Petticoat of white silk with seven fluted flounces. The three upper flounces are erect. It is trimmed at each side by a broad band of pale yellow silk with a fall of black lace, which is gracefully draped and fastened down by large pansies and pointed ends of silk. The open train skirt of yellow silk has flutings of white silk with lace flounces, and is draped by clusters of pansies and bows. Flowers finish the lace bertha of the low white corsage. A band of yellow silk surmounts the double fluting of white silk and lace. Yellow ceinture. Loops and ends of white and yellow ribbon compose the coiffure.

Fig. 22.-Evening dress of rose-colored crêpe de laine. Two broad flutings trim the long skirt; these are bordered and separated by flutings of black silk ribbon framed in narrow black lace. Low cor

BONNETS.-FROM MADAME MORRISSON'S, NO. 6 RUE DE LA MICHODIERE, PARIS.-PAGE 251.

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ceinture. Low underbody of white lace. Blue flowers in the hair.

Fig. 24.-Dress of light-gray toile Javanaise. The long skirt has a broad puffing of the material; this is cut and framed by flat bands of green silk and a narrow black lace. The puffing at each side is finished by a large green bow. Heart-shaped casaque with shaped basques and straight sleeves. Bands and bows of green silk. Narrow lace completes the trimming. Silk ceinture and rosette. Muslin chemisette.

DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS.-PAGE 241

No. 1.-Dress à deux jupes. The lower skirt is of lemon-colored sultana. It has a broad fluted flounce of apricot-colored silk, parly covered by a similar but much narrower flounce, headed by a bias band edged on each side by a fluted frill. The narrow flounce and heading are twice repeated at

equal distances up the skirt, the whole being, in each case, edged by a narrow white guipure lace. The upper skirt and corsage

are of apricot-colored sultana. The skirt is open en tunique in front, and round at the back, and is edged with a frill of white guipure lace, headed by a double bias band of the sultana. It is caught up at each side, and fastened at the waist. The back of this tunic is partially covered by a deep round basque, slightly plaited, and falling over which are two nearly square shaped tabs which start from bows at the waist, and which are, with the basque, edged by white guipure lace, with a narrow bias band above it. The corsage has small pointed basques in front, and is trimmed à bretelles by bias bands of sultana, edged by lace, and which terminate at the waist. Starting from between them, a bias band is carried up the centre of the back to the neck. The sleeves are bouffants, are drawn into a band just below the elbow, and are terminated by a frill, narrow in front, and deep at the

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back. Round hat, covered with white lace, and trimmed by rounded at the sides, and has a train of moderate length. It is pink ribbon and white lace lappets. No. 2.-Dress of sky-blue silk. The back of the skirt is trimmed by a rounded bouffant. The mantelet is of white cashmere. It forms two points at the back, and is cut up the centre, and laid over from left to right, so as to form a third point; the whole of the mantelet, as well as the back opening, is edged by a silk fringe of mixed colors, headed by velvet to match. Bonnet of white straw, trimmed with blue ribbons and garlands of field flowers.

No. 3.-Dress à trois jupes of gray Japanese silk. The front of the lower skirt is trimmed by a series of oblique flounces falling over each other, and the edges of which are bound by viojet-colored ribbon. The second skirt is a long tunic, open and

edged by a flounce, headed by a double bias band of violet silk. The bottom of the third, or upper skirt, is edged by a similar flounce, headed by two bias bands of the violet silk. It is caught up at each side of front and fastened by bands or tabs of violet silk, which start from the waist, and are terminated by thick tassel-fringe. The back of this skirt is caught up en bouffant by two similar bands. Falling over the back of the bouffant is a group of bows of violet ribbon, attached to the ceinture, which is fastened by a rosette in front. The corsage is open in front, and has revers and a collar of violet silk. The sleeves are trimmed by bias bands and tabs of violet silk to correspond with the upper skirt.

No. 4.-Dress of maize sultana. The back part of the skirt

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is trimmed at the bottom by three plaited flounces, of which the centre one is the widest, and the top flounce is put on with a heading edged and lined by sky-blue silk, and arranged to form a series of vandykes. The front is trimmed by two instead of three flounces, the upper one similarly headed. Each breadth of the skirt is divided by a rouleau of blue silk. At the back, starting from the waist, are two deep

very narrow flounce with a heading and mauve rouleau. The sleeves are trim med at the wrists to correspond, and the waist-belt is of mauve silk with bow and ends at back.

No. 2.-Dress of buff or light Havana batiste. The skirt is trimmed at the bottom by a fluted flounce, above which are two rows of plaiting of white muslin, fastened down at each side by a rouleau of the same; these quillings are separated from each other by a row of buff insertion, and are edged, the

mauve silk, and trimmed at the bottom by two flounces, the lower one being the deepest, and both put on with narrow headings. The upper skirt is of light-brown or fawncolored foulard; it forms in front a large rounded tablier, edged all round by a flounce with a narrow heading, fastened down by a rouleaux of mauve silk; at the back this second skirt forms a large panier, composed of several pieces twining together, and caught up at each side by a bow of mauve ribbon, surrounded by a frill of the foulard. These pieces which compose the panier are edged by narrow flounces like those described for the tablier. The body is open in front like fig. 3, and is trimmed all round the opening and neck by a

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