JULY 1870

lilac silk buttons. Pipings trim the large sleeves and short open | and silk fringe of the two colors; it is draped at each side betunic. The former are draped at the elbows by bows of the neath bows of the material, bound with green; the fronts of same; the latter is finished by a fringe to match. Lace collar the close corsage are continued to form the tablier. A rosette and undersleeves. Bonnet of fine white straw. The straw- fastens the ceinture above a rounded and fluted basque; straight colored ribbons are edged with narrow blonde lace. At one side sleeves; all of these are trimmed like the skirts. The barrettes is a large white rose. which cross the fronts are also of silk, bordered with green. Lace collar and undersleeves; bonnet of white lace and green ribbon, with a large marabout feather.

Fig. 4. Costume of light-green grenadine. The lower part of each of the seams of the long full skirt is covered with a broad plaiting of barège, lined with silk of a darker shade. The basquine is trimmed with bias bands of silk and a silk fringe to match the dress; the bands of the corsage outline a sharply-pointed front. Plaitings finish the straight sleeves; a larger one attaches the ceinture at the back. Lace collar and undersleeves. Hat of white tulle, and green ribbon.

Fig. 5.-Reception toilet of salmon-colored foulard. The long gored skirt is bordered by a double pinked-out ruche. A smaller ruche trims the open casaque and loose sleeves. The pointed vest-front is of white silk with salmon-colored buttons. The large bow at the back has pinked-out ends. Cambric collar and undersleeves. A puff of white silk, crossed by a pale salmon-colored feather, composes the coiffure.

Fig. 12.-Train dress of plain black silk. Two bias bands of the same, framed in rouleaux of purple silk and placed above a fall of black lace, outline the open tunic. Close corsage; straight sleeves; the basque-skirt is plaited at the back and shaped in front. All the trimming consists of bands and lace, with large bows of black silk, bordered with purple. Bonnet of black lace, with rouleaux of purple ribbon. A white feather, tipped with purple, crosses the front.

Puff

Fig. 14.-Train dress of maize-colored Indian silk. Black silk casaque. Black guipure lace and tassel-fringe trim the open corsage and straight sleeves. Fringe and a handsome passementerie border the skirt; this is very deep, and is lifted by large double bows of silk with fringed ends; that at the back also fastens the ceinture. Bonnet of white lace and ribbon, with a pale-yellow flower at the top.

Fig. 13.-Toilet of pearl-gray silk. The wide puff upon the train skirt is of silk gauze of a similar shade; the ruched borders are edged with narrow Valenciennes lace. The silk flounce is sewn on with two rouleaux. Lace edges the pointed borders. The tunic is a square pouf, with a flounce headed by five rouFig. 6.-Dress of silver-gray Japanese silk. The long skirt leaux. The sides turn back en revers; here there are but two is quite plain. Close corsage. The basques in front are short rouleaux; a floss-fringe to match is added to the lace border of and square; those at the back are very deep and coat-shaped. | the pouf. The trimming simulates a square tablier and short The trimming consists of double rows of black lace and rou-skirt. The close corsage, sabot-sleeves, and the rounded basque leaux of blue silk ribbon, with large blue bows. Straight which falls below the double bow of the ceinture, are all sleeves, trimmed to correspond. Embroidered collar and un- trimmed to correspond. Lace collar and undersleeves. dersleeves. Puff of black lace and blue ribbons in the hair. bonnet of white lace, with a white feather at one side. Fig. 7.-Costume of pale-blue glacé silk. The long trainskirt has a very deep flounce of rich white lace, headed with a ruching of blue satin ribbon. This flounce describes a tunic and rounded tablier. The double bow at each side is very large. The open tunic forms a full pouf, and is flounced. The lace trimming is repeated upon the heart-shaped corsage. The sleeve is of white silk gauze; narrow ruchings divide it to form the three full puffs. Lace at the wrist. A bow framed in lace at the shoulder. Ribbon ceinture. The five bows down the front of the dress graduate in size. Blue ribbon in the hair. Fig. 8.-Costume of light-green glacé silk. Train skirt; open puffed tunic. The close corsage is cut low, and square in front; the short sleeves are puffed; the flounces are composed of pointed bands of black silk, edged with falls of rick black lace, and put on with ruched headings. This trimming also traces the tablier and finishes the corsage and sleeves. Ceinture to match, with a lace knot and floating ends at the back. Chemisette and undersleeves of white silk gauze and lace, with rouleaux of green silk separating the puffings. Pointed cuffs of black silk, edged with narrow lace. Coiffure of green ribbons, bordered with black lace.

Fig. 9.-Promenade toilet of silver-gray summer poplin. The lower skirt has a fluted flounce of blue silk. Falling upon this is a poplin flounce, which is divided near the top by a bias band of blue silk. Higher up is a poplin fluting and band with a handsome tassel-fringe to match. Open tunic of blue silk; this is shaped and trimmed with rouleaux of silver-gray silk. Close-fitting casaque. The basque-skirt opens at the sides; the revers, sleeves, rouleaux and ceinture, are blue. Gabrielle collarette of white lace. Lace cuffs. Round hat of blue silk, with gray rouleaux and tiny feather.

Fig. 10.-Visiting toilet of almond-green Alcyon foulard. The long skirt is plain; the open tunic has four narrow bias bands of black silk; the sides are arranged in folds, and are also trimmed with narrow black lace. This skirt has a slight bouffant, upon which fall the broad-fringed ends of the black silk ceinture. Black buttons of silk and lace fasten the close corsage. The sleeves are straight. Short casaque of white alpaca with large flowing sleeves; this is trimmed with silk bands and black lace. The back is open like the front, and both have revers of almond-green foulard. Sleeves en suite. Bonnet of green tulle and black lace, with a white marabout feather crossing the top.

Fig. 11.-Dress of pale orange-colored toile aurore. The lower skirt is trimmed with three broad bias bands of silk to match. These are framed in rouleaux of pale-green silk, and arranged to outline large scallops. The open tunic has two bias bands

Fig. 15.-Dress of summer silk. White, striped with pink. The close corsage has small basques; the sleeves are straight; the rouleaux and buttons employed for these should be of pink silk. Lace collarette and undersleeves. Black silk paletot; this is loose-fitting, hollowed-out at the neck, and caught by a large silk bow. Rouleaux and narrow lace compose the trimming; these simulate revers and sharply-pointed cuffs with bows. Watteau hat of English straw, with a knot of pink ribbons at the side.

Fig. 16.-Toilet of blue silk barège. There are seven gathered flounces, all sewn on with headings and bound with silk to match; the three upper and lower flounces are of the same width; the fourth is very deep. Open corsage and straight sleeves, trimmed with narrow ruffles. Black silk casaque; this opens at the back; the lace trimming simulates square basques, and separates the large loops; it also forms the epaulets and deep cuffs of the straight sleeves. Lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of black lace, with blue ribbons and a delicate spray of blue flowers crossing the top.

Fig. 17.-Round dress of buff-colored foulard. The six lower flounces are surmounted by a ruching of black foulard; above this rises six smaller and erect flounces. The black overskirt forms a rounded tablier and pointed tunic, falling in folds. Buff-colored corsage and straight sleeves. The basque follows the outline of the tunic, and is similarly arranged. The pointed pelerine, cuffs, ceinture, and centre of the large bow are black. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Black lace bonnet, with a yellow flower at the side.

Fig. 18.-Promenade toilet. The dress is of vapor-colored leno. Flat bands of pale-green silk trim the skirt, the basques of the close corsage, and the straight sleeves. Polonaise of black silk. The fronts cross, the sleeves are straight, and the deep skirt is shaped. Rouleaux and brandebourgs with large buttons compose the trimming. Lace collar and undersleeves. Loops of black ribbon form the round hat; this is encircled by a black lace scarf which knots at the back. At one side is a large rose with leaves.

Fig. 19.-Toilet of self-colored toile céres. The deep flounce is sewn on with a heading beneath a broad ruche. The tunic has no fullness; it is cut to form two large points, and is