is shorter. Very wide sleeve, slightly confined below the elbow by a velvet bow. Trimming of flutings and velvet bands. An upright fluting heads the postilion basque, and is held in place by a loose band of velvet, which is met at each side by a velvet bow with long pointed ends. Ruff and undersleeves of embroidered muslin and lace. White silk bonnet, trimmed with purple ribbon, white lace, and a long purple feather. The Fig. 16.-Promenade toilet of lavender-colored faille gored skirt has a deep flounce, which is cut in points at both edges, and gathered on with a heading. The second skirt is cut in points, and gracefully draped at the sides. Pointed bands outline two large scallops on the two very broad folds at the back, and within the upper scallop are four tasseled ornaments of mauve silk. All the bias bands and borderings are of mauve velvet; the narrow ruffles are of black lace. The close corsage and straight sleeves should be trimmed to correspond. Tight-fitting casaque of mauve velvet, with four shaped basques; those at the back fall upon others of mauve satin, which are of the same shape, but somewhat deeper. Mauve satin bands are employed for the pointed trimming at the upper part of the 2. TOILET OF SATIN TURC.-PAGE 399. corsage. Satin buttons fasten the fronts. Satin plaitings finish the large sleeves, and rouleaux of this material simulate deep cuffs; at the back of each cuff are two tasseled ornaments. Lace collar and undersleeves. Hat of mauve satin and black lace, with a cluster of crimson flowers at the back. Fig. 17.-Dinner toilet. The material is silver-gray silk, with narrow black stripes. The long lower skirt has four deep flounces, which are bias, bordered with black velvet, and sewn on with but little fullness. Princesse overdress. Pompadour corsage; rounded and slightly draped tablier; deep tunic, with a full bouffant. Half-long puffed sleeves. Trimming of rich black lace, and black velvet bands; this garniture is carried up the front, and around the corsage. Loop rosettes of velvet. White lace ruffles at the neck and wrists. Head-dress of black lace, velvet and crimson roses. Fig. 18.-Evening costume of white brocaded grenadine, over pale-yellow silk. The long train skirt has a deep box-plaited flounce, the scallops of which are bound with silk; the upper part is hollowed-out to form a point at each side. The two smaller flounces are also scalloped and bound; they have but little fullness, and the upper one is slightly lifted at each side | and fringed band of silk; below this are two deep ruffles of lace. by a silk bow with short ends. The scalloped overskirt forms a Lace edges the neck. Head-dress of blue satin ribbons and rounded tablier and deeper tunic; the latter is very bouffante; lace. resting upon it at each side is a large revers of silk, edged with a ruffle of white lace; this lace is continued upon the silk bands running to the waist. Low corsage, with pointed basques and short puffed sleeves. Bands, bows, jockeys, and scalloped revers of silk. Ruffled lace bordering. Plaited underbody, and long puffed sleeves of plain white silk gauze. Lace ruffles at the neck and wrists. Yellow ribbons in the hair. Fig. 19.-Costume of bright-blue silk and silver-gray crêpe de Chine. The deep flounce of the train skirt is arranged in large close plaits; partly covering it is a very wide puffing of Fig. 20.-Costume of black velvet. The round skirt is closely plaited and confined by two broad bands of black satin; the lower band serves as a heading to the black lace flounce, and is finished at the upper edge by a lace ruffle; the second band has the ruffle only. Draped casaque, with a Pompadour corsage and half-long sleeves. This garment is entirely covered with flat ruffles of black lace and satin bands of a corresponding width; these run in opposite directions, and a deeper fall of lace finishes the borderings. Beneath the lace of the sleeve appears a plaiting of velvet. All the bows are of satin. A crêpe, which outlines a rounded tablier and tunic, and is framed in bias folds of blue silk. Above the puffing rises a deep ruffle of white lace, and from the lower edge falls a handsome blue silk tassel-fringe. The crêpe overskirt is cut in points, and draped to form a full bouffant. A silk fold heads the lace flounce. Crêpe casaque, with open and deep fronts; the basque thus formed is pointed; at the back it is well hollowed-out. The silk vest-fronts are deeper and pointed; they are fastened by large buttons of the same, and bordered with a bias fold, heading a fall of fringe. A band edged with lace unites the fronts of the crêpe casaque. The sleeve is formed by a crêpe puffing which reaches the elbow, where it is met by a pointed E.Thirion 2. DRESS OF PURPLE FAILLE ruffle of white lace edges the corsage. Lace undersleves. Bonnet of black velvet, trimmed with satin ribbons, lace, and clusters of bright-colored flowers. Fig. 21.-Dress of bronze-colored poult de soie. The round skirt has a deep and gathered flounce, which should be surmounted by four bands of black velvet. The rounded overskirt has two smaller flounces, with groups of five and six bands. The high corsage and tight sleeves should be trimmed to correspond. Casaque of black poult de soie; this fits closely; the corsage is cut en cœur. The deep basque opens widely in front; the sleeves are straight, and the pockets are large. The casaque has also a tunic-skirt, with a full bouffant and large revers. 1. BACK OF A SLEEVELESS. CASAQUE. The scalloped border is bound with the same. Black velvet bands and silk cord compose the trimming. A very broad band supports the bouffant, and is finished at the side by a bow with short ends. The revers are held down by black silk passementerie ornaments with heavy tassels. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of bronze velvet, trimmed with black satin ribbon. At the top is a cluster of bright-colored flowers and leaves. A bronze-colored feather droops over the crown. Fig. 22. - Promenade toilet of mouse-gray satin turc. The deep flounce forms groups of broad folds, and upon each group is a bow of mouse-gray satin ribbon, with a single end. Close-fitting princess overdress. The skirt, which is draped, and very bouffante, is rather short in front. Fluted flounce, headed by a puffing, which is caught at intervals by black passementerie ornaments. Above t'e 4. BLACK VELVET CASAQUE.-PAGE 405. crossed by loops of silk cord. Rouleaux finish the scalloped basque. Straight sleeve, with a large cuff. Two rounded ends fall from the back of the arm-hole. These are bordered with velvet, and confined above the elbow by a loosely-rolled satin band. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of velvet to match the dress. Facing, bows, strings, and floating ends of blue silk, striped with the contrasting tint. Blue feather. Page 398, No. 1.-Silk costume. The lower skirt of plain flax-gray has a deep flounce of gray, striped with black. This has no fullness, and the large points of the upper part are headed by two rows of wide and narrow black velvet. Close corsage, straight sleeves, and draped overskirt of the striped material. Revers of plain silk and small ruffles of black lace. A large bow of velvet, with 5. BLACK SATIN CASAQUE.-PAGE 405. |