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COPY HOLDER, proof-reader, printer, or some body is to blame for the insertion in a contemporary that between the scylla of camphene whisky and the charybolis of strichnine lager, even the most moderate drink. ers will find it dif ficult to steer with safety.

"MAY I leave fow tracts?" naked a traveling quack doctor of a Tady who responded to his knock.

"Leave some tracka? Cer tainly you may," said she, looking at him most benignly over her

o leave em with the

heel toward the

STEAMER

THIRD MONTH.-And must have a decent regard for appearances.

house, if you FOURTH MONTH.-Finds change of scene absolutely FIFTH MONTH.-Meets her affinity on please,"

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the beach.

KISSING in the dark is not a safe practice, especially if the object practiced upon is a widow. A man was engaged in that kind of practice in Nebraska,lately, when an impertinent flash of lightning reveal

ed the performance to a select party of spectators, and the man had to marry the widow to get out of the scrape.

"WHO was the meekest man, my son," said the superintendent of a boys' Bible-class. Moses, sir." "Very well, my boy; and who was the meekest woman?"

"There never was no meekest woman."

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EIGHTH MONTE-And the end is grampe forers, wedding fators, el sue. and - we ounds

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VOL. XXXI.

DESCRIPTION OF BONNETS.

FROM MISS MATHERS,

891 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.

N. 1.-Hat of dark-green velvet, with a high crown and rolled brim. Band and bow of black satin ribbon. The latter is placed a little toward the side, at the back, and has three long ends. Black feathers droop over the top, and at one side is a black aigrette.

No. 2.-Hat of India-blue velvet, trimmed with blue watered ribbon and chantilly lace. The velvet is arranged in folds around the high crown. The lace scarf

starts from the front, where it is

caught by large loops of ribbon, and passes half around the hat, to fall at the back; and the strings knot beneath the chin. A lace tour de tête finishes the rolled border.

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pointed collar. A narrow fold of the same also supports the bouffant. The rich si k fringes of different widths, finishing the basque and sleeves, should match the dress material. A broad sash of blue velvet, with pointed ends, knots loosely at one side. Cambric collar and undersleeves.

Fig. 2.-Promenade toilet. Closely plaited-skirt of goldenbrown silk. Casaque of dark-gray drap d'été. This fits rather loosely, and the very deep skirt is draped at the back, the two broad folds thus formed being confined at the waist by a gray silk passementerie ornament, with two tasseled cords. Large buttons of gray silk attach the fronts. At a little distance above the edge of the basque is a narrow puffing of silk. Similar puffings form points, upon the sleeves. Cambric collar and undersleeves. Round hat of black velvet; black feathers cover the top, and a long vail of gray silk gauze falls at the back.

Fig. 3.-Visiting costume of leaf-green satin. The very deep flounce of the gored skirt is arranged in groups of folds, the intervening spaces having no fullness whatever. A puffing of the material, framed in rouleaux, is employed for the heading. The second skirt has a rounded tablier and tunic, the latter being quite deep. A narrower puffing than that above the flounce heads the deep leaf-green colored silk fringe. Closefitting casaque, with pointed gilet-fronts and coat-shaped basques. The loose sleeve is rendered still wider by a plaiting of satin, which is inserted at the outer seam, and is partly covered by a fall of fringe. Above this are three large satin buttons. This trimming is repeated upon the inner part of the sleeve. Buttons fasten the vest-fronts, and finish the basques. The small pelerine, which is hollowed-out upon the shoulders, has two sharp points in front, and three at the back. From each of these points depends a silk tassel. The puffed borderings are narrow. Cambric collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of dark-green velvet, with a large cluster of crimson roses at one side, and a black lace vail falling at the back.

Fig. 4. Dinner toilet of pale-yellow and gold-colored satin and white lace The long, gored skirt and close-fitting casaque are yellow. The former has five small and gathered flounces; three of these are gold-colored, and they alternate with two like the dress. The two bias folds are also of the darker shade. The casaque has a heart-shaped corsage, a rounded basque, and straight sleeves, set in with puffed headings. The bands, ceinture, bow, with four ends of varying lengths, and the deep, coat-shaped basques, are all gold-colored. Lace ruffles and collerette. Chemisette and undersleeves of embroidered muslin and lace.

Coronet of small blue flowers and green leaves.

Fig. 5.-Walking dress of black poplin. The gored skirt is cut in points, and bordered with black velvet. Below it appears a fluting of the material. Higher up is a smaller fluting, surmounted by three narrow bands of velvet. This trimming also simulates a row of upright points. Close corsage, with straight sleeves, a rounded tablier, and a full bouffant. The very deep fluting of the tablier becomes somewhat narrower as it approaches the sides, and is there turned quite forward. Velvet buttons, bands, corselet, shoulder-straps, ceinture, and bow. The latter should be placed at the back of the waist. The cambric collar and undersleeves are worked with black. Round hat of black velvet, covered at the top by a large cluster of crimson roses and foliage. Lace vail.

Fig. 6.-Visiting costume. This is of gray silk, shaded with tan-color, and the lower skirt has two broad bands of tan-colored satin. The close corsage should be fastened with satin buttons, and trimmed with bias bands. The draped overskirt, the large cape, and the cuffs of the straight sleeves, are sharply pointed, and bound with satin. The embroidered designs are of both colors. The square hood is lined with satin, and upon it depends an ornament in tan-colored silk passementerie, with heavy cords anl tissels. Bonnet of tan-colored satin, trimmed with black velvet ribbon, a black lace vail, and a dark-yellow feather.

gray velvet, trimmed with bands of plum-colored satin. Four narrow bands cross the front of the corsage, and the dark fringe is carried quite around the basque. The wide sleeve is slightly pointed, and an opening is simulated by the trimming of lands and fringe. Cambric collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of plumcolored velvet, with puffings of satin passing around the high crown. A black-dotted lace vail falls at the back.

Fig. 8.-Costume of pale yellowish-brown silk. The long skirt is trimmed with thre: bands of darker cut velvet. The second skirt is draped to form a rounded tablier and deeper tunic. It has but two bands of velvet and a flounce of guipure lace. Close-fitting casaque, with four sharply-pointed basques, those at the back being very deep, and slightly gathered up. A single band heads the lace. This trimming also outlines a pointed collar. Bands and a small ruffle of lace finish the manche à sabot. Velvet buttons. Three large loops and a pointed end of violet-colored velvet, lined with silk to match, appear at the openings at each side of the basque. The loosely-rolle 1 band that crosses the back is caught up upon the bouffant. Collar and undersleeves of muslin and lace. Hat of pale yellowish-brown silk, with a large crown and rolled border. Trimming of violet-colored velvet. Two large white roses and foliage are placed a little toward the side.

Fig. 9.-Toilet of blue gros-grains. The back of the gored skirt is crossed by five gathered flounces, edged with narrow ruffles of guipure. A ruffle finishes the upper edge of the bias band heading. The front is trimmed er tablier by seven broad folds. These have lace ruffles at the upper edges, but the lower band has also a deeper ruffle falling from it.. Meeting the three upper bands at the sides are large bows of black satin, with fringed ends. The open tunic has a full bouffant, and the shaped side-pieces are turned back. Half-open corsage, with a pointed basque and large sleeves. All the borderings consist of bias bands of gros-grains, framed in lace ruffles. The corsage has two rows of this trimming. Upon the chest is a black satin bow; others finish the sleeves, and a larger one is placed at the back of the waist. All the pipings are of black satin. White lace chemisette and undersleeves. Bonnet of blue velvet, trimmed with blue satin ribbon and guipure lace. The large crimson rose at the top rests upon a ribbon bow with floating ends.

Fig. 10.-Toilet of lemon-colored silk poplin. The deep flounce of the gored skirt is arranged in double folds, and the heading to it is formed by a broad band of the material, scalloped at both edges, bound with black velvet and fastened down by two rows of velvet piping. Princesse overdress. At the back of the waist is a large bow of black velvet, from which start two loops of the same. These lift the skirt en bouffante, and through the openings thus effected fall large loops, and long, pointed ends of velvet. The small flounce is box-plaited, scalloped, bound with velvet, and surmounted by a black band. Narrower velvet is employed for the bows. These are placed down the entire front of the overdress, and rest upon the ruffles of the loose sleeves. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of black velvet and black lace, with clusters of crimson roses and foliage.

Fig. 11.-Boy's suit of pale golden-brown velvet. Short pantaloons. The skirt of the blouse is closely plaited, and the wide sleeves become tighter at the wrists. Broad ceinture, and buttons of the same Linen collar and cuffs. Crimson stockings. Morocco boots. Black plush hat, with a small crimson feather.

Fig. 12.-Costume of lavender-colored faille and violet velvet. The long skirt of velvet. is closely plaited at the back. The front is crossed by two gathered flounces of faille, with puffed headings. Each flounce is fastened down at the sides by a velvet bow with pointed ends. Faille overdres3. The close corsage has a double row of velvet buttons. Ruffles of rich black lace finish the straight sleeves. The skirt has a lace Fig. 7.-Promenade toilet. Dress of plum-colored velvet. flounce, and is plaited at the side-seams to form the rounded The lower skirt is plain. The second is draped, and forms a tablier and full bouffant. A velvet bow upon one shoulder very full bouffant. The deep silk fringe to match is headed by attaches a long scarf of the same material, which crosses the a broad bias band of plum-colored satin, and at each side is a back and front of the corsage to the opposite side of the waist, large satin bow. A similar trimming should finish the close where it is confined beneath the larger bow of the velvet ceincorsage and straight sleeves. Tight-fitting casaque of dark-ture, and falls in a single broad, fringed end. White lace

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between these are bows of velvet, placed slantwise. The deep, Deep tunic, draped at the sides. Here the satin band surmounts cuffs and jockeys of the straight sleeves are of golden-brown a handsome green silk fringe with a netted heading. The satin silk with ruffles and velvet bands. Chemisette and undersleeves ceinture fastens at the side beneath a large loop with a broad of embroidered muslin and lace. White lace cap, with a knot fringed end. Lace collar and undersleeves. Green velvet of golden-brown ribbon at one side. bonnet, trimmed with satin ribbons to match, and a white Fig. 14.-Visiting toilet. Long skirt of dark-green satin, curling feather.

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