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the chest, and is closed by two rows of buttons. The sleeves are trimmed by the single rouleaux of black silk, which are carried up the backs, forming scallops, having a button in each. At the back of the waist is a knot, with two small bows and short ends of the cloth, having a button on the knot and on each bow. Black velvet hat, with a soft crown, trimmed with a white ostrich feather and a black lace lappet.

Fig. 21.-Young girl's costume. The underskirt is of sky-blue silk, and forms a succession of thick plaits starting from the waist. The upper skirt is of pale Havana-colored cashThe bottom is trimmed by a plaited frill, headed by rouleaux of sky-blue silk, and it is caught up at each side, and fastened by a button of the same material. Corsage à gilet; the front is of sky-blue silk, has small

mere.

1. CLOTH CASAQUE.-PAGE 381.

square-shaped basques, and closes by a row of buttons. This portion of the corsage is partly concealed by an open veston of the same material as the upper skirt, and trimmed in accordance with it. The sides are rounded, and the back is prolonged so as to form a postilion, with a hollow plait in the centre. The sleeves are trimmed at the wrists by mousquetaire cuffs, edged like the veston.

Fig. 22.-Princess robe of crimson cashmere. Large silk buttons to match. The pockets and the cuffs of the straight sleeves are pointed. These and the entire dress are worked with crimson silk cord. Fluted muslin collar and undersleeves. Bow of crimson ribbon in the hair.

Fig. 23.-Dress of blue-gray poplin. The rounded skirt has a closely plaited flounce, surmounted by three small ruffles, which have broad bor

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No. 5.-Dress of purple faille. Long plain skirt, buttoned corsage and loose sleeves. Overdress of violet cashmere. This has a close corsage, with very wide and deep sleeves. The skirt is lifted at one side only, and upon the opening falls a draped width of the material, which forms two sharp points, and is caught up beneath the large bow of the ceinture. The entire overdress is elaborately worked with purple silk, and edged with

deri ngs of golden-brown velvet. Three velvet bands outline | dotted lace, and a white curling feather. At one side is a large points, the lower row of which touch the upper ruffle. cluster of crimson roses. The three bands of the pointed and draped overskirt form two large scallops. An assorted silk fringe finishes the velvet bordering. At each side is a very large bow of golden-brown velvet, with pointed ends. Half-open corsage. The basque is hollowed-out upon the hips, pointed in front, and square at the back. The large rolling collar and bands are of velvet. The trimming of the sleeves simulate pointed cuffs, Fringe edges the basque. Velvet buttons. At the neck and wrists are flutings of white muslin. Hat of golden-brown velvet, trimmed with ruchings and floatin ends of dark-blue satin ribbon.

DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS.
PAGE 321.

No. 4.-Dress of smoke-colored poult de soie. Long plain skirt. Close corsage and straight sleeves. Black velvet polonaise. The skirt is draped, and the round cape has a deep and sharply pointed hood, which is ornamented with rich designs in silk passementerie, and finished with a large tassel. A narrow ruffle of guipure lace edges the top of the hood. The flounce and ruffles of deeper lace are surmounted by broad bands of passementerie. This trimming simulates a smaller cape. Passementerie buttons should attach the fronts. Black velvet bonnet, trimmed with black gros grains ribbons, black

3. SILK CASAQUE.-PAGE 331.

a rich tassel-fringe of the same dark shade. The fringe that crosses the bow has a narrow heading of embroidery. Lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of purple velvet, with a high crown and coronet front. Trimming of violet gros-grains ribbon. A white feather droops over the top.

Page 322, No. 1.-Toilet of goldenbrown faille. The long skirt is trimmed with gathered flounces of different widths; these cross the front, simulate an open tunic, head and border the deep flounce that crosses the back, and also finish the draped portion of the skirt. This portion forms, in fact, a second tunic, the sides of which are fastened down. All the flounces have ruched headings. Close-fitting and buttoned casaque, with sharply pointed basques and coat sleeves. The ruffles are sur. mounted by double rows of rouleaux. The pelerine-fronts are short and square; they have small revers, and are caught by a double bow of darker

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velvet. At the back of the waist this cape is deeper, and I short skirt is partly open at the back, and draped to form two pointed, and is fastened down by a large bow of velvet with large points. Pointed trimming of black velvet, bound with long ends. Small bows are placed at the wrists. A fluting is black silk. The point which appears at each opening has a deep carried partly around the neck. Rouleaux trim the cape, out- and closely plaited ruffle, with velvet borderings at the plain line deep cuffs, and divide all the ruchings. portions only. Narrow bands of velvet, framed in small silk No. 2.-Train dress of olive-green satin turc. The long ruffles, cover the seams of the corsage, and at each side of the skirt is plain. The tunic has a full bouffant, and is draped waist is a rosette to correspond; from one of these rosettes deat the sides. A design worked with fine silk cord surmounts pends an anchor in jet-and-gold. Plaitings of silk, with velvet the tassel-fringe, both being of the same shade as the satin. bands and rosettes, form the large collar, head the straight The corsage is partly open, with pointed revers; the coat-shaped sleeves, and finish the very wide and deep cuffs. Ruff and

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1. POPLIN COSTUME.

PAGE 331. basque is arranged in folds at the back. Straight sleeve; the very deep plaiting simulates a manche à sabot, and is headed by a worked band. Loops and tasseled ends of heavy olive-green silk cord form the epaulets. Two cords fall from one shoulder to the back of the waist, where they form a large cluster of loops; from thence they descend to the opposite side of the tunic, and finish in smaller loops with four long and tasseled ends.

Page 324, No. 1.-Toilet of laurel-colored silk. Long plain skirt. Close-fitting overdress. This is princess-shaped, and the

2 AND 3. FRONT AND BACK OF A CLOTH DRESS. undersleeves of muslin and lace. The hair is worn in two long braids, with laurel-colored ribbon bows at the ends. Black velvet hat; the silk scarf matches the dress, and is similarly bordered.

No. 2.-Promenade costume of olive-colored velvet and silk of the shade known as bronze florentine. The round skirt and the tunic are of silk; the former has a bias flounce, which bas no fullness, but is sewn on with a ruched heading of black lace. The bordering and two bias bands are of velvet. The lower part of the tunic is of velvet, and upon this falls three small

silk flounces, with headings of rouleaux. This skirt has a full bouffant, and is caught up at the sides by passementerie ornaments; below each fold thus formed fall ruffled ends of silk. Close-fitting casaque of velvet, with wide sleeves and a large collar. The basques are square, but much deeper in front than

at the back; they are

edged with lace. Silk covers the upper part of the corsage; the short oversleeves are also of silk, with ruffles of the same. Velvet bands and lace ruffles form the headings and borderings. Lace finishes the collar. Ornamental buttons. Standing collar and undersleeves of embroidered muslin and lace. The puff bonnet is of velvet of the lighter shade employed in the toilet. At one side is a large bow with a single broad and pointed end; this is lined with rose-colored silk. At the opposite side is a brilliantly tinted rose, with buds and leaves. Page 325, No. 1.

Promenade costume of flax-gray silk, trimmed with blue. At the bottom of the skirt are four small and alternating flounces; these are gathered, and surmounted by a very deep puffing of the higher color, framed in double ruchings. The draped tunic is quite deep at the back, and rounded in front." Half-open corsage, with deep and sharply pointed vest-fronts, and a coatshaped basque. Large collar and open sleeves. Narrow folds of blue silk cross the front to simulate an open jacket. All the pointed bands, the borderings, and the buttons are blue.

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3. LACE COLLERETTE AND CAP.-PAGE 331.

Lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of gray silk, trimmed with blue gros-grains ribbons. Gray silk parasol.

No. 2.-Promenade costume. Round and closely plaited skirt of black silk velvet. Overskirt of woodcolored silk; this has a rounded tablier and double tunic, and is draped at each side beneath a large loop of wood-colored grosgrains ribbon with a single end, which is long and pointed. The trimming of black guipure is sewn on without fullness. Loose-fitting and halfopen casaque of black velvet, with shaped basques. The large sleeves are of the colored silk. Lace trimming. Ribbon bow upon the chest. Undersleeves and ruff of muslin and lace. Bonnet of white silk rep, with white grosgrains ribbon and a long unbleached marabout feather.

No. 3.-Little girl's dress of light - green cashmere. The lower skirt has four bands of darker velvet of varying widths. The scalloped tunic has a ruffle of worsted lace to match, and through this runs a narrow velvet ribbon, whilst large velvet bows head the scallops. Square corsage and lose

sleeves, trimmed to correspond. Velvet ceinture, bands and bows. Hat of light-green silk, with ribbons of the same shade, and a white feather.

No. 4.-Round dress of maroon-colored gros-grains. The deep flounce is cut in points, and bound with the same. The points at the upper edge have a bias band bordering, and the flounce itself is gathered beneath a similar band. Pointed ruffles should trim the close corsage and straight sleeves. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Close-fitting paletot of black velvet, with pointed revers and pockets; it is sleeveless, but the cape, which is quite deep and rounded, becomes shorter as it approaches the front and covers the arms; it does

black velvet paletot and the bonnet are precisely like those of the preceding figure.

Page 326, No. 2.-Costume of Carmelite plum-colored faille. Round lower skirt. The second skirt forms a slightly pointed tablier and a rounded bouffant. The deep and graduating flounce of the tablier is headed by two bands of the palest India-blue velvet. Between these is a blue embroidered vine, and at the point is a velvet bow with ends. Two smaller bows finish the front. The flounce of the overlapping bouffant reaches the point of the half-open corsage, which is trimmed en Pompadour by silk embroidery between velvet bands. A similar trimming heads the deep ruffle of the half-long and tight sleeve.

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lace ruffle edges the neck. Lace undersleeves. Coiffure of white lace, with small bows of blue velvet.

not meet, being fastened down beneath the points of the revers. | Velvet bows. At the back of the waist is a large bow. A white Embroidered designs, and rich tassel-fringe complete this stylish garment. Black velvet bonnet, trimmed with maroon-colored satin ribbon, and a black lace vail, which falls at one side. At the other side is a cluster of crimson roses, with a trailing spray of buds and leaves.

No. 5.-Promenade toilet. Round dress of mauve faille. The small flounce is gathered, and has a heading of designs in black silk cord. The second skirt forms a square tunic and deeper tablier, which is rounded and slightly bouffant. The flounces are headed like that of the lower skirt. The close corsage and straight sleeves should be trimmed to correspond. The

No. 3.-Round dress of vert-de-gris silk, trimmed with velvet of a darker shade. The very deep flounce is bias, and pinkedout at both edges; it is set on at a little distance above the bottom of the skirt, and is fastened down by a velvet band, which passes beneath the box-plaits, thus forming a heading. The graduating flounces of the rounded tablier and full bouffant are smaller, but similarly arranged. Pompadour corsage, with loose sleeves. Trimming of velvet bands, running through pinked-out box-plaitings. The velvet ceinture is attached at

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