Puslapio vaizdai
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surmount the flounce. Bands and a fringe of the same shade trim the second skirt. This forms a full bouffant and pointed tablier, with a row of large satin buttons. The basque of the heart-shaped corsage is pointed in front, and rounded at the back. Trimming of bands and fringe of varying widths. Two large buttons should fasten down the plaits at the back of the waist, whilst in front is a bow of plum-colored satin ribbon, with fringed ends. The deep ruffle of the straight sleeve has a boxplaited heading, three bias bands, and a ruffle of rich white lace. Wide ribbon is employed for the large bow of three loops and long, fringed ends. Lace ruff.

Fig. 16.-Visiting costume of dark-blue poult de soie. The gored skirt is trimmed en tunique by five gathered flounces, which become deeper as they ascend, and are edged with small ruffles of black lace. Seven flat rows of lace insertion, with ruffled headings, cross the front, but the lower row is finished by a flounce of deep lace. This garniture is met at each side by the flounces and seven bows of dark blue velvet, with pointed ends. The small tunic is trimmed with lace, and turned back at the sides. The bouffant of this tunic is very full. Velvet buttons fasten the close corsage, which has a small basque at the back only. An elaborate lace trimming simulates an open jacket with pointed fronts. The pointed outline is repeated in the large sleeve, and the lace is carried almost to the elbow. At the outer side of each sleeve is a large bow with three pointed ends. White lace collar and undersleeves. Puff bonnet of dark-blue velvet, with ruffles of narrow black lace, and a white curling feather crossing the back.

Fig. 17.-Round skirt of bronze-green gros-grains, trimmed at the lower part by three flounces and a narrow band. All are closely box-plaited, but the flounces are cut in small scallops, and divided near the top to form headings, whilst the band is plain, and sewn on as a ruching. Overdress of black gros-grains. Ornamental buttons attach the close corsage, fasten down the

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1. FAILLE TOILET.-PAGE 327.

revers of the very deep tunic, and are placed at the back of the waist. A large bow with pointed ends rests upon the bouffant, and double loops fall above the openings at the sides. Rounded tablier. The large sleeve is confined just below the elbow by a small bow with four ends. The ruffled borderings are of rich black lace, and three rows of lace insertion cut both the tunic and tablier. White lace collar and undersleeves. Turban of black velvet, bound with bronze-green satin. Green gauze vail.

Fig. 18.-Costume of golden-brown poult de soie. The round skirt has a very deep flounce, which is pointed at both edges, and bound with the same. It is also divided near the top by three bias folds. Folds, and a deep fringe to match, trim the tunic, which has a full bouffant. Buttoned corsage, with a rounded basque. This and the straight sleeves are finished with points and folds. At the back of the waist, and at the outer seams of the wrists, are bows of golden-brown satin ribbon. Pointed fichu of blue satin, arranged in folds, edged with narrow black lace, and fastened by a satin bow. White lace undersleeves. Jet necklace, attached by a gold clasp. White silk hat, with a black velvet band. At the back is a large black feather drooping over the high crown The smaller feather and aigrette are white.

Fig. 19.-Dress à deux jupes of pearl-gray poult de soie. The bottom of the lower skirt is trimmed by a bias band of ruby velvet, partly concealed by a flounce of the poult de soie, above which is a narrow bias band of ruby velvet,'

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2. BACK OF VELVET PALETOT.

two bias bands of ruby velvet, to which is added a flounce of black lace. The front of the corsage is closed by velvet buttons, and the bands of velvet (with the lace edgings) are also continued from the upper skirt, and are carried up the front (at a little distance from the buttons) and round the neck. The sleeves are wide, and open at the wrists, and are edged by single bands of velvet, with the narrow black lace, and this trimming is carried up to the backs of the elbows, forming pointed spaces, on each of which are four buttons. Cambric collar and undersleeves. Velvet bow in the hair.

1. BACK OF CLOTH JACKET. PAGE 374. surmounted by two upright frills of narrow black lace. The upper skirt is composed of two distinct portions; the front is square-shaped, and the back is round. The front and back portion of the skirt are caught up at the sides, and fastened together near the waist by papillon bows of the dress material, thus causing the back piece to be bouffante. The front portion is edged by a broad bias band of ruby velvet; two bands are also carried up the centre to the waist, leaving between them a narrow space, which is studded by large velvet buttons. Narrower bands of the velvet edge this part of the skirt, and are carried across the bottom; and at the inner sides of these, as well as of those which are carried up the centre, are narrow upright frills of black lace. The back portion of the skirt is edged by

Fig. 20.-Dress of chocolate-colored silk. The bottom of the skirt, which is of a round form, is trimmed by four bouillons of the silk, and between each is a ruching of the same material;

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PAGE 328.

2. PROMENADE COSTUME OF OLIVE-COLORED VELVET.

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the whole of this trimming covers
nearly half of the skirt. The par-
dessus, which is tight-fitting, is of
black cloth, and the back portion is
cut in one with the corsage (à la prin-
cesse). The skirt is very deep, is bouf-
fante at the back, and open in front.
At one side of the front opening is a
row of buttons, and at the opposite
side a row of buttonholes, each row
placed between two rouleaux of black
silk, which are also carried all round
the bottom edge. The back of skirt
is bouffante, and at each side, near
the waist, a pocket is imitated by a
piece of cloth forming three scallops
at the front edge, bound by black silk,
and having in each scallop a button.
At each side of the front of the cor-
sage is a small square-shaped basque,
and an imitated pocket of the same
shape, all edged by single rouleaux
of black silk. The corsage is slightly
open on the chest, and has a rounded
turned-down shawl-collar, edged by a
ruche of silk. The front crosses over

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