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Lady's Magazine

VOL. XXXI.

DESCRIPTION OF BONNETS.

FROM MISS MATHERS, 891 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.

FROM the following designs furnished by this house, it will appear that, although very slight changes have taken place in the shape of bonnets, yet the most charming effects may be produced by a graceful arrangement of the trimmings.

No. 1.-A bonnet of corn-colored silk. The material is arranged in plaits, and confined by a loosely-rolled band. At the top of the pouf thus formed is a large knot of broad corn-colored gros-grains ribbon, with long ends filling upon the chignon--a white marabout feather crosses the front.

No 2.-A bonnet of white silk, with a flat border and puffed The folds are bias, and

crown.

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the tour de tête is of white lace; wide trimmings of white grosgrains ribbon. At the back is a ribbon bow with floating ends; a long spray of green vine-leaves crosses the top and falls at the side. At the opposite side is a ruching of white lace with a single scarf-end falling over the chignon.

No. 3.-Hat of English straw. The border is rolled; a broad blue ribbon passes around the high crown, and is caught at each side by a pearl ornament. At the back is a large bow with short ends; a small white marabout feather rises from the bow and rests upon the crown.

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has two gathered flounces, with fringed-out headings. The
broad box-plaitings of these flounces are also fringed. The
rounded tablier has a flounce in front only, the trimming of
which is carried up to the waist. The sides are draped by large
bows. Each of these has a single broad end passing beneath
the tablier, and finished by a rich tassel-fringe to match. The
space at the back of the lower skirt is crossed by four small
flounces similar to those which border it. Close-fitting and
buttoned casaque.
A rouleau edges the rounded basque. At
the waist is a bow, with floating ends. Rouleaux and fringe
trim the upper part of the corsage. Ruffles and box-plaitings,
with fringed-out edges, finish the half-long sleeves Lace
collar and undersleeves

Fig. 2.-Reception toilet. Plain train-skirt of pale-green silk. Princesse overdress of white grenadine, with broad stripes of pale-green satin. This skirt has a flounce of rich white lace, headed by a pinked-out box-plaiting of silk. It is draped at each side, and below the fold thus formed falls a deep ruffle of silk, with a narrow box-plaited and pinked-out bordering. At the back of the waist, and resting upon the bouffant, are two very large silk loops, with a single end edged like the deep ruffles. Lace and a silk ruching trim the upper part of the corsage. Lace ruffles and ruchings confine the full

sleeves at the wrists.

band bordering is framed in rouleaux, and finished at the lower edge by a handsome tassel-fringe to match. Bows, with pointed ends, attach the open fronts. Buttons fasten the dark, closefitting casaque. The basque is sharply pointed at the front and back, but at the sides it is hollowed-out and cut open. Rouleau bordering. The light fichu has a single rounded tab. It is fringed, and crosses at the front of the waist beneath a bow with ends. Near the right shoulder is a smaller bow. The wide sleeve is hollowed-out to form four sharp points, and the deep cuff is trimmed with three rows of pinked-out box-plaitings. Of these the middle row is light; the others are dark. White lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of French chip, with blue ribbon tour de tête and strings. The latter fasten at one side. The high crown is encircled by a ribbon band beneath a garland of light-yellow roses and leaves, with a trailing spray.

Fig. 7.-Toilet of tea-green foulard-armure. The deep flounce of the gored skirt is cut in small scallops, and lined with rosepink silk. The bordering is also of the same bright color, but the silk cord trimming matches the dress. This flounce has but very little fullness, and is surmounted by double rows of cord. A similar flounce finishes the draped tunic. The basques of the close-fitting casaque, and the band that confines the full sleeve, are scalloped, and lined and bordered with pink silk. Silk cord trimming. A garniture of tea-green passementerie finishes the corsage. White lace collar and undersleeves. Leghorn straw bonnet, trimmed with rose-pink gros-grains ribbons, and a white curling feather. A cluster of grasses falls at one side.

Fig. 3.-Visiting toilet of ashes-of-rose-colored pongee. The
very deep flounce of the long skirt is gathered. The upper
edge is cut in inverted scallops, and the fluted heading is lined
with rose-colored silk. Above this are two narrow bias bands
of silk, and a second row of pongee fluting, lined with silk.
The second skirt is of rose-silk, quite plain, and draped at the
sides. The pongee tunic is open at the back, and draped at the
sides. Close-fitting casaque, with deeply rounded basques and
straight sleeves. All the borderings are fluted, and lined with
the contrasting color. This trimming is carried across each
side of the waist. It also forms the bretelles, and crosses the
back. At the latter place it surmounts four rose-colored bands.
At the back of the waist is a large silk bow, with a long scarf-coat-sleeves are of silk, with rouleaux of the same.
end, which is caught at one side beneath a larger bow, with
two floating and fringed ends. Rose silk buttons should fasten
the casaque.
White lace collar and undersleeves. Rose silk
bonnet, trimmed with gros-grains ribbons of the same shade.
From the top fall two curling feathers to match the two colors
employed in the costume.

Fig. 8.-Dress of pale straw-colored poplin, trimmed with bright-blue silk. The gored skirt has a very deep flource, which is gathered and set on beneath two broad flutings. The lower edge is scalloped, and ralls upon a silk plaiting. Close casaque, with a very deep basque, which is open at the front and back, and cut in small scallops. Silk lining and plaited ruffle. At the back of the waist is a silk bow, the long, fringed ends of which are confined by bias folds, attached to the draped boxplaits of the basque. The large collar and the deep cuffs of the

Fig. 4.--Walking-dress of lavender-colored faille. The round skirt has a very deep flounce, with but little fullness. This is headed by two rouleaux and a scalloped band. A graduating flounce, with a similar heading, outlines a rounded tunic, and the rounded basque of the close-fitting buttoned corsage is trimmed to correspond. Rouleaux edge the ceinture. The sleeves should be straight and ruffled. The black silk casaque fits closely at the back, the fronts are open, and the upper edge of the garment is scalloped, and trimmed with two rouleaux. A deep flounce finishes the full bouffant. A ruffle, rouleaux, and a scalloped band trim the wide sleeve. White lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of white silk, trimmed with white and lavender-colored ribbons. The white strings are loosely knotted. White and lavender feathers droop over the top.

Fig. 5.-Dress of myrtle-green gros-grains. The lower part of the gored skirt is trimmed with perpendicular bands of narrow black silk velvet, each being finished by a small loop. Above these is a broad puffing, framed in ruchings. The close corsage and straight sleeves should be trimmed to correspond. Close-fitting casaque of light-gray cashmere. The fronts are loose and open, the skirt is draped, and the entire garment is bordered with a broad band of black velvet, framed in flat bands of black guipure lace. A similar trimming confines the large sleeve. Collar and undersleeves of muslin and lace. At the neck is a bow of green ribbon. Bonnet of light-gray silk, framed in plaitings of green gros-grains ribbon, with edgings of narrow black lace. Ribbon bows, loops, and floating ends. At the back is a large cluster of jet ornaments upon lace loops. Fig. 6.-Promenade costume of two shades of blue taffetas. The gored skirt is dark, and the deep flounce is formed of alternating folds, and sewn on with a heading. Open tunic of the lighter shade, gracefully draped at the sides. The broad bias

The rou

leaux of the flounce, heading, and basque, are of poplin. buttons. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. French chip, trimmed with blue gros-grains ribbon. white and blue feathers fall at the back.

Silk Hat of Long

Fig. 9.-Home dress of wood-colored foulard. The lower part of the long skirt is covered with several small flounces, which are finely scalloped and gathered. Double loops of black velvet ribbon, with single floating ends, appear between and above these flounces. The second skirt forms a shaped and draped tablier and full bouffant. A velvet band heads the scalloped ruffle. Half-open corsage. The basque is cut away at the front, pointed at the sides, and square at the back. The small folds are headed by large, flat buttons. The wide sleeve is confined at the elbow to form a fold. Trimming of ruffles and velvet bands and bows. Chemisette and undersleeves of embroidered muslin and lace.

Fig. 10.-Half-train skirt of light-gray silk. The deep flounce is arranged in close plaits, and headed by a double ruching of gray and pale-blue silk. Watteau overdress of bluegray silk, brocaded with large white roses. The skirt has a fluted bordering, and is draped at each side by means of a bow and long, floating ends of wide, pale-blue gros-grains ribbon. Flutings finish the corsage, and the deep ruffles of the halflong sleeves. All the bias headings are of ribbon, and a small fluting of this trimming falls from the ruffle at the neck, and upon the Watteau fold. Blue buttons and ceinture. Lace collar and undersleeves. Leghorn straw hat, trimmed with a wreath of white roses, and a bow and floating ends of blue ribbon.

Fig. 11.-Dress of pale-green poplin. The gored skirt has a very deep flounce, with but little fullness, and this is headed by a broad bias band of darker silk. The overdress is princessshaped, with a high corsage and wide sleeves. The trimming of silk bands simulates a low corselet, and is finished at each shoulder by a bow with ends. Bands head the ruffles of the sleeves. A large silk bow, with longer ends, supports the bouffant. The tablier is deeper, and shaped. It is finished by band-trimming, and is fastened down at the sides by bows. A ruffle of white lace rises above the green cravat. Lace under

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sleeves. Hat of English straw, with a large cluster of crimson | sage, large sleeves, and open tunic, are scalloped, and bordered flowers and leaves at the top. A vail of pale-green silk gauze falls over the chignon.

Fig. 12.-Promenade costume of fawn-colored drap de Paris. The gored skirt has four rows of trimming, each row consisting of three narrow bias folds of blue silk. The heart-shaped cor

with blue, each scallop being headed by a small puffing. Blue
silk tassel-fringe of varying widths finishes the costume. A
large bow fastens the blue ceinture in front. Embroidered
muslin chemisette and undersleeves. Blue silk cravat.
muslin hat, with a very full, puffed crown, and a deep, box-

White

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a

2. DRESS OF PONGEE-FOULARD.

lace. Lace tour de tête. Strings of almond-colored grosgrains ribbon fasten in front. A bow, with floating ends, is placed at the back. From the smaller bow at one side springs

Fig. 13.-Toilet of almond-colored poult de soie. The full a silver aigrette. train skirt is arranged in close folds at the back. The fronts of the buttoned casaque are very deep and rounded. The small postillion basque falls upon deeper basque, which is arranged in folds like the skirt, and is finished at each side by a broad bias band of the material, with double loops loosely confined by a narrow band. Narrow folds finish the upper part of the buttoned corsage, and a garniture of silk passementerie to mateh crosses the shoulders, is continued down the fronts, and entirely borders the casaque. The tablier is trimmed with deep flossfringe. The graduating ruffle of the half-long sleeve is set on with a narrow heading. Trimming of passementerie and fringe. Lace collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of French straw, with a puffed crown of almond-colored silk, framed in a ruffle of white

3. FOULARD COSTUME.

4. FOULARD COS UME. CHILDREN'S FASHIONS.-PAGE 253.

Fig. 14.-Foulard costume. This is of two colors-emerald-green and pearl-gray. The entire dress and the mantelet are green. The tunic is gray. The plaited flounce of the gored skirt is partly covered by a very wide box-plaiting of the contrasting color, and this is fastened down near the top by a broad bias band of green foulard, which is edged and cut by three rows of narrow black velvet ribbon, and framed in wide and narrow ruffles cf white lace. The close corsage and loose sleeves should be trimmed to correspond. The tunic is rounded in front, pointed, and deep at the back, and draped at the sides beneath large green bows, bordered with three rows of narrow velvet ribbon. The wide ends of varying lengths are similarly trimmed, and are finished with very deep-gray silk fringe. This skirt has

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