と 1. MUSLIN SLEEVE.-PAGE 177. Trimming of silk bands and bows, with pointed ends. Bands simulate a pointed collar, and the large sleeves are finished to correspond.. White lace collar and undersleeves. Hat of French chip; blue ribbons; a cluster of wild flowers and grasses falls over the crown. No. 5.-Child's dress of buffcolored mohair. The skirt is trimmed en tunique by a narrow band of silk of the same shade, and within each scallop is a silk rosette. Square, sleeveless corsage, with a deeply scalloped basque. Silk borderings. Plaited muslin underbody, with long sleeves, gathered at the wrists. White silk hat, with a white feather. Page 176, No. 3.-Faille costume. Long skirt, and draped tunic of almond-colored faille. 2. MUSLIN COLLERETTE.-PAGE 177. No. 2. Here the front hair is arranged in puffs, and at the top of the curled chignon is a bow of hair. No. 3.-Ball coiffure. The hair in front is rolled, and a cluster of long curls falls upon the chignon. Feathers and aigrette. No. 4.-Promenade costume. Round gored skirt of pale-blue | chignon, and at one side is a rose and leaves. Long curls fall silk, with a very deep and gathered flounce, headed by two bias upon one shoulder. folds of varying widths. Two smaller flounces, similarly headed, outline a pointed tablier and tunic. Ruffles trim the half open corsage and tight sleeves. Casaque of cream-colored silk. Heart-shaped corsage, and straight sleeves. The deep tunic is square and very bouffante. The gathered ruffles are surmounted by broad blue bands. White lace ruff, and undersleeves. Hat of fine white straw; a garland of blue flowers encircles the high crown, and falls over the white gauze vail at the back; at one side is a bow and ends of wide blue ribbon. DESCRIPTION OF PARIS BONNETS, CAPS, ETC.-PAGE 167. No. 1.-Hat of fine Leghorn straw. The crown is high, and the deep brim is slightly rolled at the back. It is trimmed with straw-colored ribbon and black lace. A long lace scarf forms the strings. Toward the back is a large yellow rose, with buds and trailing sprays of foliage. No. 4.-A large bow of hair surmounts the smooth chignon. DESCRIPTION OF PARASOLS.-PAGE 174. No. 1.-This is of embroidered silk, with an ivory handle. It is trimmed with scalloped ruffles. Carved ivory handle. No. 2.—Alpine hat of split straw. Around the high crown is No. 4. In this the ruffled trimming is arranged to form large a puffing of blue ribbon, and a single end falls at the back. A points. At the top is a double bow of satin ribbon. Ivory cluster of white and tinted feathers droops over the top. At one side the brim is turned up beneath an ornamental blue silk tab with long tassels. No. 3.-Bonnet of rice straw, trimmed with loops and float ing ends of colored ribbon, a long feather, and a rose with a long spray. No. 4.-Model for a Pompadour casaque. This is close-fitting, with tight sleeves. It is trimmed with narrow ruffles of the material, and silk bands of a darker shade. The ceinture passes beneath the revers in front. Ribbon bows and shoulderknots. No. 5.-Dress cap of muslin, lace, and colored ribbon. N. 7.-Fichu of embroidered muslin, edged with narrow lace. Nos. 8 and 9.-Chemisette and undersleeves of plaited muslin. They are are arranged to form large revers. The ruffles are of white lace. DESCRIPTION OF CHILDREN'S FASHIONS.-PAGE 168. No. 1.-Boy's suit of striped linen. Short pantaloons and a loose jacket, with a large collar and cuffs. It is worked with dark braid, and finished with flat bands of white embroidered muslin. No. 2. Child's suit of white cambric. The skirt is kilted, except in front, where it forms a broad fold. Lace buttons fasten the loose-fitting casaque. This simulates pointed vestfronts and an open jacket. Large collar and cuffs. Trimming of embroidered bands and fine braid. No. 3.-Black silk casaque. It is close-fitting. The basque is very deep, and pointed in front, but sharply hollowed-out at the back. Half-long and pointed sleeves. It is worked with silk braid, and narrow bands of black velvet head the plaited handle. FIG. 1-Traveling costume of English waterproof. The gored dress has a buttoned corsage and tight sleeves. Linen collar and cuffs. The overdress is loose and belted. Wide sleeves, and a large hood. Linings of black silk. A silk bow and floating ends finish the hood. Fig. 2.-Boy's suit of brown cloth. Felt hat, with a ribbon band and small feather. Fig. 3.-Waterpoorf suit for a little girl. The gathered skirt is rather shorter than that of the dress. Close corsage, straight sleeves, and a large cape cut partly open at the back. Silk bands of a darker shade. Fringe to match. Straw hat. Colored ribbons. Fig. 4. Costume of fawn-colored silk serge. The deep flounce is gathered and trimmed near the edge by a bias band of blue silk framed in rouleaux. The overskirt has two bands, the lower of which surmounts a small flounce. Close-fitting casaque, with pointed basques. Double sleeves. The lower are tight-fitting; the upper are very deep, square, and partly open. Blue bands, fringe, and buttons. Embroidered linen collar and undersleeves. English straw hat. Blue ribbons. White feather. Gauze vail. Fig. 5.-Dress of light-green poplin. Gored skirt, draped tunic, and shaped jacket, with a large collar and wide sleeves. The bias bands are all of silk of a darker shade. The short bands are confined by poplin loops. Linen collar and undersleeves. Straw hat. Green ribbons. At the back is a rose with leaves. White-and-green shawl. Fig. 6.-Waterproof costume. This is fastened down the front by black velvet buttons. It has two capes and straight sleeves, and is trimmed with narrow bands of black velvet. Straw hat. Black ribbons. Gauze vail. Fig. 7.—Riding habit of brown cloth. The close-fitting jacket has pointed vest-fronts, collar and deep cuffs of black silk. Silk passementerie trimming. Linen collar and cuffs. Gauntlet gloves. Black beaver hat, with a long gauze scarfvail. Fig. 8.-Riding habit of black cloth. The basque is rounded, | fitting corsage, with sharply pointed fronts. The rounded and the trimming of fringe and silk passementerie simulates a small cape. The sleeve is set in with a plaited jockey, trimmed to correspond. Black velvet ribbon shoulder-knots, with floating ends. A velvet bow fastens the linen collar. Velvet buttons. Black bands trim the high-crowned straw hat. Gauze vail. Figs. 9 and 10.-Front and back of a costume of frog-green foulard-armure. The long skirt has a very deep and box-plaited flounce, which is bound with white silk, and sewn on with a double heading. Above and below it are pointed tabs, outlined by white silk rouleaux. The princesse overdress, the rounded tablier, and the deep tunic, are scalloped. Rows of this trimming are carried up each side, and upon the full bouffant. Fringed scarf-ends fall at the sides. Small, pointed hood. Straight sleeves, finished by large rosettes with white centres. White loops confine the green bows. Lace collar and undersleeves. Fig. 11.-Walking dress of white cambric. There are two gathered flounces, and the ruffles which surmount these are separated by a band of lace insertion. Ruffles and bands trim the close corsage, the draped overskirt and the half-long sleeves. Bows are placed at the elbows. The ceinture fastens beneath a broad fluting. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. White chip hat, trimmed with blue ribbons and clusters of field flowers. Blue serge parasol. Fig. 12.-Round skirt of pearl-gray silk, with a very deep and plaited flounce, surmounted by two broad rows of plaiting. Overdress of pearl-gray cashmere. This is composed of a draped tunic and a close-fitting casaque with large sleeves. All are scalloped and bound with silk to match, and elaborately embroidered with floss silk. Pearl-gray fringe. Hat of Leghorn straw. Gray ribbons and black lace vail. Fig. 13-Walking dress of striped grenadine. The gored skirt has two plaited flounces of varying widths. These are placed at some distance apart, and are divided near the top by rouleaux of the same. The tunic has a single flounce, and is draped to form a broad fold at the back. The basque of the close-fitting casaque is similarly arranged. Large sleeves. Plaited trimming. Lace collar and undersleeves. Straw bonnet, trimmed with light-colored ribbons, lace and flowering vines. Fig. 14.-Gored skirt of dark-green silk, striped with black. The deep flounce is bias, and has a fluted heading above a broad band of black velvet. Velvet buttons should fasten the close corsage, and narrow bands finish the tight sleeves. White cashmere overdress. This consists of a gracefully draped tunic, and a large mantle, which is worn with a long end thrown over one shoulder. Velvet bands head the lace borderings. Valenciennes collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of fine straw, trimmed with white lace, green ribbons, and trailing sprays of foliage. Fig. 15.-Toilet of pale lilac barége. The front of the skirt is crossed by three small and gathered flounces, with headings formed by double ruchings of silk to match. The trained portion of the skirt has a deep flounce, which is surmounted and edged with others much narrower, and with silk ruchings. The lower flounce is carried quite up the front of the skirt to simulate an open tunic. It also fastens down the flounced tunic, which is draped at the sides by loops and floating ends of broad violet ribbon. Close-fitting casaque, with straight sleeves. The básque is deep in front, and hollowed-out at the back. Trimming of ruffles and silk ruchings. Lace collar and undersleeves. Large cape. The violet ribbon bordering of the top is finished at the back by loops and long ends. Hat of rice straw. Violet ribbons and field flowers. DESCRIPTION OF OUR TWO COLORED FASHION PLATES. PLATE N. Y. 53. FIG. 1.-Foulard Costume. This is of a pale yellowish-brown tint. The long skirt has four small flounces. These are gathcred, and two are of the material, but the alternate flounces are of golden-brown foulard. The upper skirt has a small bouffant, and is.edged with a deep fringe to match. Close basque is very full, and beneath it appears a square plaiting of the contrasting color. Deep plaitings also fall below the narrow ruffles of the straight sleeves. Golden-brown buttons should fasten the corsage. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Hat of English straw, trimmed with goldenbrown gros-grains ribbon and trailing sprays of blush-roses and foliage. Fig. 2.-Dress of Stone-colored Silk. The long, gored skirt has three bias bands of lilac silk, and above each of these rises a small fluting of the same color. The princesse overdress is entirely open, and slightly crossed at the waist only. The skirtfronts are square, and disappear beneath the deep and rounded bouffant. The trimming of violet silk revers and fluted ruffles forms a fichu, and is continued down the fronts, where it becomes very narrow, and meets the large revers that border this portion of the skirt. Pointed revers and small ruffles trim the wide sleeves. A ruffle of white lace edges the corsage. Undersleeves of muslin and lace. Small jacket of white cashmere, with a pointed collar and very large sleeves. This is trimmed with broad and narrow bands of black velvet ribbon, and ornamental buttons of white silk cord. Bonnet of fine French chip, bordered with violet ribbon. At one side is a group of ribbon loops; at the other are trailing sprays of violet flowers and foliage. A ruffle of white lace finishes the inner edge of the bonnet, and lace strings fasten beneath the chignon. White pongee parasol. PLATE N. Y. 54. Fig. 1.-Ball Costume. Train-skirt of lemon-colored silk, trimmed with four narrow bands of black silk velvet. Overdress of lemon-colored silk gauze. The train-tunic has a small flounce, which is gathered and trimmed with two rows of very narrow velvet, and is surmounted by two broader bands. The second skirt has a smaller flounce, which is similarly trimmed and headed. This skirt is draped to form a full bouffant. At one side of the opening, it is rounded. At the other it is finished by a large revers. Low casaque of gauze over silk. The square basque is hollowed-out at the back. Very short, puffed sleeves. Trimming of ruffles and velvet bands. A long and square tab of gauze is gathered at the upper end, and falls from the velvet trimming of the basque, thus partly covering the bouffant. This tab has a deep ruffle and velvet bands. The ruffle that rises above the corsage, and the short undersleeves, are all of white lace, confined by very narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. Small yellow flowers dot the chignon, and in the front is a silvered aigrette. Fig. 2.-Evening Toilet of Violet-colored Faille. Very long, plain skirt. The tunic is quite short in front, but very deep and rounded at the back. At the sides it is gracefully draped and arranged in broad, overlapping folds. Pompadour casaque, with open fronts, and short, puffed sleeves. The deep basque is square in front, and hollowed-out upon the full bouffant. The trimming consists of double rows of black silk velvet bands. Those of the casaque are rather narrow. A rosette fastens the faille ceinture a little toward one side. White muslin chemisette. Lace ruffles edge the sleeves. Sprays of violet blossoms and foliage in the hair. |