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Lady's Magazin

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shade. The basque at the back is coatshaped. Those in front are very deep, slightly hollowed-out, and are finished at each side by a row of large flat buttons to match, which are placed upon simulated buttonholes. At each side of the small basque is a button, and others fasten the fronts. Two large loops of the darker shade, and six long and pointed ends of golden-brown ribbon fall at the back from beneath the upper flounces and the basque. Between the latter and the shorter ribbons appears a ruffle of white lace. Long ribbons depend from the front and sides of the skirt, and knot below the points of the basquefronts. The large sleeve is slightly confined by a fluting of the material beneath a band and bow of golden-brown ribbon. A ruffle of white lace falls below the sleeve. Lace collar. Hat of fine white straw. Sprays of poppies and field-flowers cover the top and attach the golden-brown ribbons that cross the chignon.

VOL XXXI, No. 3-9

No. 3.

Fig. 2.-Toilet of light-blue foulard-armure. The long skirt has five small flounces, which are gathered and set on with headings. The draped tunic has a single flounce, and at the back it is arranged in folds to display the rose-pink lining. Close-fitting casaque, with small, pointed basques. The coatsleeves have cuffs of the contrasting color. Bows of rose-pink

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gros-grains ribbon trim the lower skirt. Larger double bows are placed at each side of the tunic. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of fine straw, trimmed with rose-pink ribbon, and a spray of bu flowers and leaves.. The ribbon strings knot loosely, and the longer one is carried to the shoulder, where it is fastened in loops with floating ends.

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Fig. 3. Dress of light-green drap de Paris. Round, plain skirt. The rounded bouffant is very deep, and the edge is cut in large and small points. Buttons of the same fasten the casaque. This has a Pompadour corsage, framed in a narrow-pointed band. The straight sleeve has a very large cuff of white silk, cut in points of varying sizes. At the back the basque is small. The fronts form a deep tablier. All are pointed. Lace chemisetts and undersleeves. Fig. 4.-Toilet of white silk serge. Train-skirt. The overskirt has a short tablier and deeper tunic. both are rounded, but

the latter is cut partly open, and the full bouffant is supported | plaited and sewn on with a heading. White muslin overdress. by a large bow of violet-colored gros-grains ribbon. The High corsage. casaque opens upon buttoned vest-fronts of violet silk. The basque is sharply pointed at the sides, and hollowed-out at the back, where it is arranged in a broad fold. The ruffles of white lace are all headed by bias bands of violet silk, and at the back of the waist is a large ribbon bow, with long ends. Ruffles and bands finish the loose sleeves. Lace chemisette and undersleeves.

Fig. 5.-Walking dress of almond-colored taffetas. The gored skirt has two gathered flounces with puffed headings; these are of different widths, and each is trimmed near the bottom by a bias band of blue taffetas, and bordered at the upper edge by a rouleau of the same bright color. The overskirt forms a square tablier and a shaped tunic, with a full bouffant. Buttoned corsage, with small postilion basques and wide sleeves. The small cape is square in front, and rounded at the back. All the trimming consists of almond-colored puffings above a narrow flounce and ruffles of blue taffetas. Blue rouleaux head the puffings. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Straw hat and black lace scarf-vail. Fig. 6.-Round skirt of plain black silk; this has but little fullness in front, and the rest is arranged in large plaits. The shawl overdress, of a light fabric, is gray, striped with black. It is princess-shaped. Down the front is a striped band and two rows of large buttons. Striped bands and buttons also finish the tight sleeves, and the draped skirt is fringed. At the back of the waist is a large bow of black gros-grains ribbon, with long ends. White lace collar. Deep ruffles of lace edge the undersleeves. Bonnet of fluted straw; the gray ribbons are edged with rose-color; at the top is a rosette, and a spray of bright-colored roses falls upon the chignon. Gray silk parasol, bound with rose-color.

Fig. 7.-Round skirt of pink silk. Princess overdress of dove-gray silk. Buttons of the same fasten the fronts. The straight sleeve is hollowed-out at the back of the arm to the elbow, and the space is filled by a deep ruffle. Bias band bordering. The shaped tablier has a bias bordering and a gathered flounce of pink silk. A similar flounce confines the rounded tunic below the bouffant. The fichu of muslin and lace crosses the front, and the ends meet at the back of the waist beneath a large bow of the same, with very broad ends. Pink silk cravat. Undersleeves of muslin and lace. Hat of fine white chip, trimmed with white lace, and a pink marabout feather.

Fig. 8.-Dress of pale yellowish-brown poplin. The fronts arc princess-shaped, and all the fullness is at the back beneath the rounded basque. The wide sleeves open to the elbows at the outer seams. The entire dress is scalloped, and bound with silk to match. Silk buttons. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves.

Fig. 9.-Toilet of stone-colored silk. The long skirt has a very deep flounce, which is cut in small scallops at both edges, bound with the same, and sewn on with a heading. The draped overskirt is similarly scalloped. Close corsage. Straight sleeves, with pointed and scalloped cuffs. The rose silk ceinture fastens at the back beneath a large bow with broad and floating ends. Collar, jabot, and undersleeves of white lace. Rose silk cravat. Round hat of stone-colored silk, and white lace, with a garland of roses encircling the puffed crown. Gauze vail.

Fig. 10. Promenade costume of light-colored foulard, brocaded with flowers in natural colors. Two bias flounces trim the round skirt, and these are sewn on with headings, and upon broad flutings of white silk. The second skirt is draped to form a rounded tablier and double bouffant; it has but one flounce, which is arranged like the others, the white silk fluting appearing both above and below it. Close-fitting casaque, with rounded basques, sharply hollowed-out at the sides, and forming a small fold at the back. Straight sleeves. Trimming of ruffles and flutings. A small ruff of white lace rises above the fluting at the neck. Lace undersleeves. Hat of white chip, lined with rose-color. Long rose-colored feather, tipped with white.

Fig. 11.-Princess dress of straw-colored silk. Low corsage. Short sleeves. Train skirt, with a very deep flounce arranged in groups of folds, and surmounted by a smaller one, which is

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Wide sleeves, confined at the elbows by bands and bows of straw-colored silk. The long skirt is gracefully draped, and upon the full bouffant rests a large rosette of silk and lace. This rosette fastens the silk ceinture, the long ends of which pass beneath the bouffant, and are pointed and fringed to match. The entire overdress is elaborately embroidered and trimmed with ruffles of white lace. This garniture outlines a low corsage with short sleeves. The wide flutings are of plain muslin. White chip hat, lined with straw-colored silk. Ribbons of the same color fasten below the chignon. A garland of white and pale-yellow roses with foliage covers the top of the hat.

Figs. 12 and 13.-Front and back of a visiting costume. The material is Japanese poplin of a very pale yellowish-brown tint. A plaited flounce trims the gored skirt; it is very deep, and near the top it is divided by broad bias band of marooncolored silk, edged with blue. The overskirt has a shaped tablier, and a deeper and rounded tunic, with a large bouffant. This skirt fastens at the side, and the assorted buttons appear just beyond the maroon-colored band that falls from the waist. At the opposite side a broad fold is formed. Assorted cords with tasseled ends are gracefully draped about this skirt, and depend beneath the fold. Close-fitting casaque, with coatshaped basques and straight sleeves. All the bands, the collar, and the large cuffs are maroon-colored; the borderings and ruffles are blue; mixed fringe of yellowish-brown and maroon. Shoulder-knots of cords, with tasseled ends falling from a passementerie ornament. Double row of passementerie buttons down the front of the casaque. Chemisette and undersleeves of embroidered muslin and lace. With this costume may be worn a Leghorn straw bonnet or a round hat, either of which should be trimmed with blue ribbons, white roses, and a long black lace vail.

Fig. 14.-Home toilet of lilac foulard. The long skirt is simply trimmed down the front with wide and narrow bands of black silk velvet. Close-fitting casaque, with a large basque falling at the back, and arranged to form a broad fold. Trimming of velvet bands. The corsage fronts are partly open, beneath a collerette of white lace. Bands trim the close sleeve, and an opening is simulated by deep double ruffles of lace which are carried to the elbow.

Fig. 15.-Visiting costume of light-green poult de soie. The gored skirt has a plaited flounce, which is slightly hollowed-out at the upper edge to form inverted scallops, and is headed by two bands of darker velvet; at each point is a rosette, formed by shaped tabs of velvet, crossed and fastened down by a silk button. The second skirt is somewhat short in front, but at the back it is deep, and opens to the bouffant. A band of velvet heads the deep flounce of rich black lace. Silk buttons fasten the close corsage. Bands, buttons, and lace trim the large sleeves. At the back of the velvet ceinture are three pointed tabs of varying lengths, and falling from it at each side is a longer tab, which buttons upon the bouffant, thus confining it, and which also holds the loops of green silk cord with tasseled ends. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of white chip, trimmed with green ribbons, black lace, and a trailing spray of pink roses.

Fig. 16.-Dress of apricot-colored mohair. The long skirt has a deep and slightly gathered flounce, surmounted by two smaller fluted flounces of white silk, with puffed headings of apricot-colored silk. Three similar flounces cross the square tunic. The deep and rounded tablier has but one flounce, and is draped at each side beneath a white rosette with a colored centre; from this fall two pointed ends of mohair, bound with silk to match, and finished with white flutings. On the front of the tablier are three fluted rosettes of white silk. The corsage is pointed, and partly open. A band of white fluted silk, divided by colored puffings, forms the fichu, and this meets upon the chest beneath a rosette with small ends of mohair and fluted silk. Bands of the trimming border the wide sleeves, and confine them at the elbows. White lace chemisette and undersleeves.

Fig. 17.-Gored skirt of plain black silk, with a deep and closely plaited flounce; the broad heading is also plaited, and

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skirt. The tunic falls at the back only; it is rounded
and slightly bouffante. Close-fitting casaque. The
fronts are deep and square, forming a broad fold, from
beneath which the shorter side-pieces are carried up to
the small square basque. Straight sleeves, with large
cuffs. Trimming of wide and narrow bands of black
velvet; those upon the corsage are continued to the
square basque, thus outlining a small and pointed
jacket. Velvet buttons and bow. Embroidered collar
and undersleeves. Hat of Italian straw; green ribbons
and a white feather.

Fig. 21.-Toilet of light wood-colored pongee fou-
lard. Plain lower skirt. Draped tunic, with a full
bouffant. Close-fitting casaque, with tablier fronts.
The basque is hollowed-out at the back. The ruffles of
white lace are surmounted by two bias bands of darker
silk. This trimming is carried partly up the outer
seam of the loose sleeve. Dark buttons. Lace collar
and undersleeves. Hat of fine white straw, with a long

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1. BOY'S SUIT.

silk; a band of black lace passes around the high crown, and over the top droops a long pink feather.

Fig. 18.-Silk costume. The long skirt is white, striped with lavender. The very deep flounce is bias and gathered; it is set on with a heading, beneath a band with stripes running in a contrary direction. Lavender-colored overdress. The short skirt is trimmed to simulate a rounded tablier and tunic; the trimming consists of flounces and insertions of white lace; these are separated by a bias band of striped silk, framed in lavender-colored folds; the heading is formed of a plain fold, finished at the upper edge by a striped rouleau. Half-open casaque, with a rounded basque and large sleeves; these are trimmed to correspond; the garniture at the top of the corsage is contin

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Fig. 19.-Train skirt of blue cashmere, with three flat flounces, upon which castellated designs are outlined by rouleaux of silk to match. Casaque of dovegray cashmere. This fits closely, the sleeves are large, and the skirt is gracefully draped at the sides. This skirt is elaborately braided with darker cord, but the small ruffles are of silk to match the material. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Fig. 20.-Walking dress of darkgreen Japanese poplin. Plain

3. BLACK SILK CASAQUE.

2. CHILD'S SUIT.

scarf of wood-colored silk gauze; this is caught together at the back and above the upturned brim by a large pearl buckle, from which springs a long white feather.

DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS.-PAGE 165.

No. 1.-Toilet of fawn-colored pongee foulard. The round skirt has a very deep flounce, which is gathered, and set on with a heading. The open tunic is rounded, draped, and bouffante, and the flounce is surmounted by two narrow bias bands of the material. Closefitting casaque, with very deep basques, which are rounded in front and hollowed-out at the back. Straight sleeves. All the ruffles have small headings. At the back of the waist are two large buttons; those which fasten the cor

4 AND 5. FRONT AND BACK OF A YOUNG GIRL'S COSTUME.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS.-PAGE 177.

sage are somewhat smaller. Embroidered muslin collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of fine straw, trimmed with fawn-colored ribbons and garlands of blue blossoms. Gauze vail. No. 2.-Child's dress of lightgray Summer silk, striped with blue. The bias flounce is arranged in groups of folds, and each group is fastened down by a rosette of the material. High corsage. The lower part of the bias sleeve is confined at the outer seam by a rosette. Sleeveless casaque of blue silk; the fronts are short and pointed; the back is deep, square, and draped. Ruffled trim

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1. WALKING DRESS.

2. IROMENADE COSTUME. ming. Hat of Neapolitan straw; blue ribbons, white flowers, | bands of pale-blue ribbon. These bands form large scallops, and a small white wing.

Page 169, No. 1.-Walking dress of bronze-colored twilled silk. It is princess-shaped, and is trimmed en tunique with four gathered flounces, which disappear at the sides beneath broad

crossing the front, and cach is finished by a bow with square ends; a smaller bow fastens the ceinture. Ruffles, bands and bows trim the corsage and loose sleeves. Blue buttons. White lace collar and undersleeves. Blue silk cravat. Hat of fine

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