The following is a list of suitable materials for mourning of those relationships we have named, all of which can be obtained at any good mourning establishment.

Silk crape, Paramatta, Albert crape,Barathea, rainproof crape, silk, Cyprus crape. Janus cord, Victoria cord, Balmoral cloth, Cashmere Français, Kashgar Cashmere; these last are wide materials from 44 to 47 inches. Crape cloth looks precisely like crape, but is much lighter and cooler.

For summer wear drap d'été, a mixture of silk and wool, is suitable; barège for dinner dresses; nun's veil cloth, etc., etc. The best all-black washing materials are cotton, satine, foulardine; black and white for slighter mourning, black with tiny white spots or sprigs.

Children should be dressed in these black washing materials —that is, for summer wear, in preference to the thicker materials, as for young children, crape is soon dispensed with. Neither velvet, satin, nor plush can be worn in mourning-that is in strict mourning-for they are not mourning materials. Attempts have been made to bring in some colors, such as red or violet, and we consider them suitable to slight mourning; but the only color really admissible for half-mourning is gray, or the palest lavender, gray gloves sewn with black, gray and black reversible ribbons, gray and black feathers, gray flowers mixed with black, and so on.

In all cases of mourning it is the best plan to write to some well-known house for patterns; good mourning establishments

can afford to sell better materials at cheaper rates than small, inferior houses. Large firms have always a good choice of materials for mourning on hand; and it is really far greater economy to buy good materials when going into mourning, than cheap flimsy stuffs, which give no wear at all; besides, such houses send out books of fashions and prices for making up mourning costumes, which give a good idea of the expense to be incurred, even if it is not found cheaper to purchase and have mourning made up by them.

Mourning has generally to be purchased hurriedly, and too often a dressmaker gets carte blanche almost to furnish the mourning. It such is the case, no wonder mourning is con sidered expensive, for things which are quite unnecessary, such as expensive crape in the place of rainproof kinds, more crape used than the degre of mourning requires, and many extravagancies of a like nature, naturally swell such a bill into one of large proportions, when by a little forethought the necessary black could have been purchased at a far more reasonable rate. It is not necessary to have very expensive mourning if our means will not allow it; we should learn to suit our require ment to the state of our purses. But we sincerely trust the old custom of wearing decent mourning for those taken away from us, will ever be really discontinued in America, for it is one of those proof of our home affections which can never be done way with without a loss of national respect.

HAKING hands after an introduction has taken place is merely optional not necessary.

It is not necessary to introduce people who meet at your house on morning calls.

It is optional after such an introduction, with the parties introduced, to continue or drop the ac quaintance so formed.

A friend visiting at your house must be introduced to all callers, who are bound to continue the acquaintance as long as the friend is your guest.

A gentleman must always raise his hat, if introduced in the street, to either lady or gentleman.

Letters of introduction to and from business men, for business purposes, may be delivered by the bearers in person, and etiquette does not require the receiver to entertain the person introduced as the private friend of the writer.

BALL.

A hundred gents or over that number constitute a ball. The lady of the house must stand near the door, so as to receive her guests, to each of whom she must find something to say, no matter how trifling. The host must also be near, to welcome arrivals, and the sons to introduce people. The young ladies and their very intimate friends must see that the dances are kept up, and should not dance themselves till they have found partners for all their friends. They may with perfect propriety ask any gentleman present to be introduced to a partner, and he is bound to accept the invitation; but the lady must be careful whom she asks. Some young ladies do not dance at all, preferring to see their friends amused, and for fear of causing jealousies.

If you escort a lady to a ball, call for her at the appointed hour, in a carriage, and send a bouquet early in the day. Upon arriving at the house where the ball is held, escort your charge to the dressing-room door. She may or may not dence the first dance with you. Ask her. You must see that

she gets her supper, and offer to leave the ball at any hour that she may be desirous of so doing.

No gentleman should wait for the "fiddles to strike up" to engage a partner.

At a public ball, a lady may refuse to have a gentleman presented to her.

Do not remain too late.

"May I have the pleasure of the waltz or quadrille with you," is all that a gentleman need say on introduction. If the lady says yes, he asks permission to write his name on her card.

Always give your arm to a lady in crossing a ball-room. Do not feel offended if your fair partner fails to bow to you when you meet her after a ball. It is optional; some young ladies are very timid, and fear that gentlemen forget them.

Do not feel slighted if your fair companion does not invite you to enter her home on returning from the ball. If she does invite you, decline.

AT HOMES-RECEPTIONS-GIVING

PARTIES.

Parties in cities consist of-at homes, receptions, conversa ziones, private concerts, private theatricals, soirées, dramatic tea-parties, matinées, or a gathering of people.

In the country, the in-door parties comprise small dancing. parties, tea-parties, and conversaziones; but the out-door occa sions are of much greater number and variety; lawn tennis parties, croquet, sailing, and boating parties, picnics, private fêtes, berrying parties, nutting parties, May festivals, Fourth of July festivals, anything for a day spent in out-door frolic. For "Receptions" and "At Homes," and conversaziones in. vitations should be sent out a week beforehand.

At a reception you have music and singing, perhaps recita. tions. Light refreshments are served, and the hostess makes the most of her rooms in display, etc.

Gentlemen should take elderly ladies into refreshments. Let amateur performers learn something off by heart. Being provided with notes is not stylish.

Le no person offer to turn over the leaves of a music book for a estormer, unless he or she can read music rapidly. It you play an accompaniment show off the singer not yourselt.

If you get up private theatricals, secure the best amateur talent

Be punctual at lawn-tennis and croquet parties.

Gentlemen at picnics must turn into waiters for the nonce, and look to the appetites of the ladies.

SALUTATIONS.

Do not insult by offering two fingers when shaking hands. Remove your right hand glove in the street, retain it in the house.

Do not wring off the wrist of the person with whom you shake hands.

The lady recognizes the gentleman first by bowing. The gentleman must wait il he is bowed to by the lady

When a lady is de..... s of ending a conversation in the street she should bow slightly, and the gentleman must instantly take his leave.

If the lady" proceeds upon her way "without breaking up conversation, then the gentleman is bound to join her in the promenade.

At home, the lady extends her hand to every guest.

A gentleman is at liberty to bow to a lady seated at a window, but if he is in the window he is not to bow to a lady in the street.

The gentleman never offers to shake hands with the lady. It is her prerogative to stretch forth her hand to his.

A gentleman may at all times bow to a lady he may meet on a stairway, even if not acquainted. If at the foot of the stairs, he must bow, pass her and ascend before her. If at the head of the stairs, he must bow, and wait for her to precede him in the descent.

If a gentleman is walking with a friend, and the friend bows to a lady, he is bound to bow although he may be unacquainted with the lady.

CALLS.

If a lady has a particular day set aside for receiving callers, call on that day only.

You can make a formal call in the morning, a friendly one in the evening.

Gentlemen may call in the morning on the following ex

cuses

After a breakfast, luncheon, dinner, reception, or ball. On the occasion of any joy or grief.

After escorting a lady on the previous evening.

Be prompt on the first call.

In the morning, call after ten o'clock; in the evening, not later than eight.

In the evening informal call leave hat, coat, umbrella, cane, and overshoes in the hall.

If you find your host or hostess attired for going out, beat a hasty retreat.

Never put anything but your name and address on your card when making a social call. Thus:

John Smiths

295 Fifth Avenue, N. Y. ||

Martin Burke, M. D.,

128 Lexington Avenue, N. Y.

Captain Geyer Copinger,

U.S. A.

Lieutenant Joseph Flint.

U.S.N.

Gentlemen should stand behind their respective chairs until all the ladies are seated, and then take their own seats. Care should be taken that their chairs do not stand upon the dresses of the ladies beside them.

Grace is said by a clergyman, if there is one present, if not, by the host. The clergyman should be invited to say grace by the host. People usually stand till grace is over.

If the dirner is à la Russe, the carving will be done behind a screen. Keep your servants from making a noise behind the

Never take a long, deep breath after you finish eating, as if you were tired eating.

Make no noises in your mouth or throat.

Do not suck your teeth or roll your tongue around the out. side of your gums.

Never, no NEVER, NEVER, put your knife into your mouth. Do not pick your teeth, or plunge your finger into your mouth.

Do not spit out fish-bones upon your plate.

Never take the bones of fowl or birds up in your fingers to gnaw or suck them. Remove the meat with your knife, and convey it to your mouth with your fork. Do not polish or scrape the bone.

Wipe your finger-tips upon the table napkin.

Do not use the tablecloth to wipe your mouth.

Do not either praise or dispraise what is placed before you. Do not drink or speak when you have anything in your mouth.

When you are helped begin to eat.

Never watch the dishes as they are uncovered, or cry out when you perceive something dainty.

Do not attempt to tuck your napkin, bib fashion, into your @hirt collar. Unfold it partially and place it in your lap, cov

ering your knees. A lady may slip a corner under he belt if there is danger of its falling upon her dress.

Do not talk loudly. Do not whisper. Do not laugh too loudly,

Use the table articles, such as spoon, butter-knife, etc., etc. Never clean your plate. Leave something on it.

Never attempt to propose a toast or sentiment, at all events till the dessert is well over. We have seen men attempt this before the roasts appeared.

Take chatlis with your oysters or clams.

Take sherry with your soup.

Take champagne with the entrées.

Take Burgundy with game.

Take port with cheese.
Take claret after dessert.

Take a pousse café, a liqueur, after coffee.

Never spit the skins of grapes, the stones or pips of fruits. Receive them upon the prongs of your fork, laid horizontally, and place them as best you can upon the edge of your plate. Do not play with your fingers upon the table.

Do not play with your knife and fork, ikiget with your saltcellar, balance your spoon on your tumbler, or make pills of your bread.

Do not illustrate your anecdotes by plans drawn upon the table with your nail.

Do not stretch your feet out under the table, so as to touch those of your opposite neighbor.

Do not tilt your chair.

Endeavor to take an easy position at table, neither pressing too closely up to it, nor yet so far away as to risk depositing your food upon the floor.

Give your neighbor as much elbow room as possible.

If the dinner is for gentlemen guests alone, and the lady of the house presides, her duties are over when she rses after dessert. The gentlemen do not expect to see her again. Cigars may be served with the coffee, and then the servants may retire

In case of a stag party like this, the lady of the house is much better away, Then the oldest friend of the host takes her seat.

BAPTISM.

Let the godfather and godmother be of the same church as the child that is to be baptized

Never refuse to stand sponsor without good cause.
The godmother should select the godfather.

The godparents should make the infant a present, a silver cup, or a set consisting of knife, fork and spoon. Very young persons should not be asked to become sponsors. The nurse carrying the child enters the church first, then come the sponsors, then the happy father, and the guests. The sponsors stand thus: godfather on the right of the child; godmother on the left.

The sponsors bow when the clergyman asks who the spon.

FUNERALS.

Do not speak loudly in the house of mourning. Do not ask to see the members of the bereaved family. Invitations are printed, and in this form :

You are respectfully invited to attend the funeral of Mr. John Smith on Friday, June 28, 1882, at 9 o'clock a. m., from his late residence, 148 West 68th Street. To proceed to Cyprus Grove Cemetery,

If the services are at church :

You are respectfully invited to attend the funeral of Mr. John Smith, from the Church of the Nativity, Madison Avenue, on Friday, June 28th, at 9 o'clock a. m. proceed to Cyprus Grove Cemetery.

Το

No further notice need be sent, if the invitation is given through the newspapers.

Do not go to the house of your dead friend until the hour named. The last moments are, indeed, precious to the griefstricken relatives.

The clergyman leaves the house first, and enters the carriage that precedes the hearse; the coffin comes next; then come the relatives.

Do not salute the relatives.

The master of the ceremonies assists at the carriages, also at the church.

Hats must be removed as the coffin passes from the hearse to the church, and from the church to the hearse, and a double line formed.

Wear black clothes, or as near to that color as may be.
Send a carriage for the clergyman.

Send only white flowers, and on the morning of the funeral. Pall-bearers must be the immediate friends of the deceased. Gloves and crape, if given, must be presented as the gentlemen enter the house.

Leave cards for the family of the deceased during the week following the obsequies. The proper person to purchase mourning is the nearest lady friend of the family,

No member of the family of the deceased shall be seen outof-doors till after the funeral.

HOTELS.

Ladies traveling alone will request the escort of a waiter from the dining-room door to the table.

Ladies will make up their minds quickly as to what dishes they propose to order.

Ladies will accept table civilities from gentlemen, such as passing salt, etc., etc.

The piano of the hotel is public property, but a lady should be careful about monopolizing it.

Ladies will not linger in the hall, and will avoid the public entrance.

Recognition across the dining-room is not required.

AMUSEMENTS.

Gentlemen will always invite another lady to accompany a young lady in taking her for the first time to a place of amusement.

Give the ladies as long a notice as possible.

A lady does not bow across a theater, a gentleman does.
Do not arrive late at any entertainment.

No lady stares round a theater with an opera glass.
During the performance speak in a low tone.

The gentleman walks before the lady until he reaches the seat, then he bows her into her seat.

Never leave the lady alone.

Never stand in the way of others in picture galleries.

It is permissible for a gentleman to join ladies for a moment or two between the acts.

Be careful to enter a place of amusement as quietly and unostentatiously as possible.

Never laugh loudly, and if you applaud, do so earnestly, but not too energetically.

BY BOAT AND RAIL.

Ladies will not permit their escorts to ente. any apartment reserved for ladies only.

Ladies traveling alone should consult conductors or captains. Ladies will thank gentlemen who raise or lower windows, coldly but politely.

If a person crushes or crowds you, and apologizes, accept the apology by a cold bow,

Gentlemen escorts must pay the most delicate and earnest care to the lady or ladies under their care. The attention must be unremitting.

At a hotel, the escort must see to everything, rooms, etc.,

etc.

Courtesies in traveling are always en règle, but there must be no attempt at familiarity,

Gentlemen will commence conversations.

Gentlemen will assist ladies to alight from the cars.

A gentleman may offer to escort a lady to the refreshment saloon.

A gentleman may offer his newspaper.

THE STREET.

Ladies bow first to gentlemen. The gentleman so saluted lifts his hat and bows.

Gentlemen will offer to carry parcels for ladies. Gentlemen will not smoke when walking with ladies. Candy or bananas, or anything else, should not be eaten in the street.

Ladies and old gentlemen are given the portion of the sidewalk next to the houses.

Ladies should not walk too rapidly.

Ladies may accept umbrella assistance from male friends and acquaintances, but from strangers never.

In crossing through a narrow place, or across a plank, or in-doors, or up-stairs, the lady goes first.

A gentleman may assist a lady to cross a puddle or across a crowded street.

A gentleman should never let a lady stand in a railway car, a street car, a stage, or a ferry-boat, if he has a seat to offer her. A man remaining seated while a woman stands, is abso lutely hoggish.