by two which are called "permanent teeth," and are distin guished by being broader, larger, and in the center upper sur face having dark cavities.

When a horse is four years old there will be four instead of two permanent teeth in the lower jaw, and between four and five years old the tusks begin to appear in males. Up to four years old a male is called "a colt," after this age "a horse."

At five years of age the horse's permanent teeth are complete, and the age after this is known by the wearing down of the cavities of the permanent teeth.

At six years old the dark cval mark on the center teeth is worn down, whilst the cavities in the other teeth are more Alled up. The tusks of the horse are longer than when five years old, but are still sharp, and not much worn.

At seven years old the cavities of the second pair of nippers are filled up; the tusks are blunted by wear, and are longer than formerly.

At eight years the horse is sometimes said "not to have a good tooth in its head," that is, the corner nippers are filled up, and the age teeth are nearly all alike, the tusks exhibit greater signs of wear and tear, and are very blunt.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

Be kind and conciliatory to the noble beast that bears you, and never show the spirit of the coward by acting cruelly, or with unnecessary severity, towards a creature so docile, so in telligent, and so useful as the horse. Let the young horseman remember that this creature is endowed not only with strength for our service, and beauty for our admiration, but with nerves sensitive to pain, and a nature keenly alive to ill-usage. To a kind master, a good-tempered horse will by many signs show his attachment, which will increase as he becomes bettor acquainted with him.

O articles of home decoration are cheaper or more effective than living plants, nor is there any means of diversion more within the capacity of all classes of people. It must be admitted, also, that nothing is quicker than an indoor plant to resent neglect or other bad treatment.

In the warmer months of the year almost all kinds of plants that can be cultivated in pots may be successfully grown on window ledges; to give sufficient water and to avoid the baking of the soil by the fierce rays of the sun is almost the only necessary attention. It is in winter, however, when flowers cannot be grown out-ofdoors, and when the cheapest at the florist's seem costly, that plants are most desirable for the house and require most care.

All varieties of plants that flourish in greenhouses have also been grown successfully in residences, but the amateur with little or no experience would do well to begin with varieties that require least care and that are least susceptible to the house-enemies of all life, human as well as vegetable. These enemies are foul air, overdried and overheated air, and darkness. Precautions against these, for the sake of plants, will be of great benefit to the inmates of the house; large housegardens have often saved more than their cost in reducing the home demand for physicians and medicines.

Beginners at indoor culture of plants should start by buying potted stock from florists. The cheapest, most enduring and most floriferous plant is the flowering geranium, which may be obtained in many varieties of color; some kinds are beautiful merely through the variegations of their leaves. For indoor decoration, through foliage alone, the plant that best endures house air is the palm; this is now to be had in great variety; small specimens are cheap and may be obtained, even (268)

by mail, from any prominent florist. They grow rapidly and confer an air of distinction on their sur roundings. The india-rubber plant, naturally a vine but trained for indoor use as a bush or single stem, never fails to please; its leaves are very large, thick and glossy, and they endure dry, hot air well. For a mass of foliage, however, nothing is cheaper or of more rapid growth than the vine best known as the German ivy; so long as the earth about the roots is not allowed to become dry the shoots will grow several inches a week, and in sunny windows the plant will often bloom, the blossoms being in small yellowish-white clusters. The shoots of this ivy may be trained about picture-frames and over windows and cornices, but they are so brittle that great care must be observed when the plant is taken down to be washed, as will be described hereafter. A stronger and more rapidly growing vine is that of the passion-flower; it will not bloom in the house except in highly favoring circumstances, but it is a rampant grower. The variety known as Pfordii has a large, light-green leaf; Constance Elliott, with a smaller and very dark leaf, is a stronger variety.

The flowering plants most desired indoors are roses, violets and carnations; they are also the most difficult to rear. They require more light and fresher air than can be found in residences in general; they manifest discontent with their surroundings by becoming covered with insects that are not easily disposed of; nevertheless roses, violets and carnations have been successfully raised in houses that have open fires, loose-jointed windows and sunny exposure. A free-blooming plant that does not demand strong light is the fuchsia, of which there are many beautiful varieties, and all are cheap. Begonias, too, deserve the attention of any amateur; they are quick-growing and of abundant bloom; even while "resting" they are interesting through their foliage, every leaf of which looks as if newly varnished. The bloom is in panicles, or clusters,

and the plant roots so readily from cuttings that the stock may be readily increased without cost. The period of bloom of new plants of the begonia or fuchsia is quite long. In a sunny window of any room that is not heated above seventy degrees, that is properly aired several times a day, the Chinese primrose and the Cyclamen will bloom for several successive weeks. The leaves of the primrose seem to resent wetting when the plant is grown indoors.

If in the house there is a window that need not be disturbed it can be made a thing of beauty by growing two or three plants of climbing asparagus in it and training them on strings; the foliage is extremely delicate, and well-grown plants can often spare some sprays for table decoration. For this same purpose nothing is more useful than ferns, and these grow best in the coolest, leastlighted rooms, from which they can be brought for special decoration when required. The finer varieties will not endure heat, but any one can transplant and grow the "shield" fern, native and wild in almost all the States, and the leaf, when mature, contains so much silex that it will endure the air of almost any living

rooin.

For many reasons the plants commercially known as "Holland bulbs" are most desirable for indoor culture by amateurs. They are cheaper than any other plants, many of them are extremely fragrant, some are entirely free of the insect enemies, and most of them are so easy of culture that only lack of water can bring failure Their botanical structure is so simple and at the same time so advanced that while the bulb is still dry it contains the flower-bud, and so susceptible is this to moisture and warmth that many hastily packed bulbs have bloomed in their cases in the depths of a steamship's hull while en route from Holland to this country. Like most other plants, they detest the hot, dry rooms and stale air in which some human beings exist, but unless killed by thirst they will in their proper time bloom anywhere, whether in darkness or daylight, in heat or in any cold that is not below freezing. Extreme heat will cause their stems to droop, their flowers to fade rapidly and their leaves to elongate and bend, but there will be no diminution in the number of flowers nor in the volume of perfume.

Holland bulbs, which are imported in early autumn and remain fit for use until New Year's Day-perhaps longer, may be purchased and planted by any amateur, and cared for with little or no trouble until they are ready to bloom. In appearance they greatly resemble onions of different sizes. They will grow in any soil, or even in water, yet will repay special treatment according to suggestions given on following pages.

The leader of this class of bulbous plants is the hyacinth, the florets of which may be had in many shades of any color but green. In most varieties the bulb sends up a single stem which has from twenty-five to fifty florets. In some varieties, and especially the Roman, the bulb sends up several stalks, each displaying a few small florets, of high perfume. The single varieties are preferable for house culture; double florets seem to require cooler, moister air. Prices of hyacinths vary according to size of the bulbs and comparative

rarity of varieties, but good standard kinds and of average size may be had at ten cents each or a dollar per dozen; unnamed bulbs sell by the dozen at five cents each, and professional florists usually content themselves with hyacinth bulbs costing not more than two cents each by the hundred.

Next in value to the hyacinth, for home culture, comes the narcissus family. Here the colors are re. stricted to yellow and white, except that one variety has a tiny circlet of red on the edge of its cup. The narcissi are divided into classes according to shapes of flower and other peculiarities of bloom; any prominent florist's autumn catalogue will contain illustrations showing differences of size and form. The flowers differ, also, in quantity and quality of perfume; some are highly scented, while others are entirely devoid of odor.

After hyacinths and narcissi the amateur should pay some attention to the tulip, selecting double varieties, unless he has a cool room in which to forward his plants. Tulips are unequaled for brilliancy of color and perfection of form, but the latter, in the single varieties, is quickly marred by heat and by dry air. Insect pests seldom or never appear on the hyacinth and narcissus, but they delight in the tulip, although very rich soil usually prevents their appearance. Were it not for its attractiveness to insects, the crocus would also be a valuable bulb for indoor use. Freesias, scillas and snowdrops are also likely to become covered with insects when grown indoors. All bulb dealers advertise the ranunculus and anemone, but not one amateur in a hundred ever succeeded in coaxing flowers from these roots indoors. Aside from Holland bulbs there are two bulbous plants-the "Bermuda" lily and the Lilium longiflorum-that should be planted in autumn and that usually do well indoors.

Bulbous plants will root and bloom in any kind of soil except stiff clay; most of them will do fairly well even in water, but to get the best results the soil should be both light and rich without rankness. If potting soil can be purchased from a florist it will answer the purpose, particularly if the florist pays special attention to bulbs. Amateurs who must prepare soil for themselves may try any of several ways, according to the materials available; the best plan is to mix equal parts, by weight, of leaf-mould or genuine muck, sand and thoroughly rotted manure; if the latter is at all "fresh" it should not be used at all, for bulbs are ruined by any stimulation that is not gentle. If leaf-mould or muck cannot be had, use the best garden soil obtainable; well-rotted turf is so desirable, instead, that many amateurs begin a year in advance to prepare it, but it can seldom be had to order. If sand cannot be got use sifted coal ashes to lighten the soil. The soil should be sifted or otherwise handled so as make sure that all worms are excluded.

Bulbs will do fairly well in boxes, tin cans or any kind of crockery, but they flourish best when planted in ordinary flower-pots. These should be soaked before they are used; if they are old, they should be scrubbed, inside and outside, to clear the pores, for no plant does well in a dirty pot. For one ordinary hyacinth or large narcissus bulb the pot should be not less than four

inches in diameter at the top; five inches is a better size. In potting a hyacinth fill the pot with earth, scoop a hole in the center and bury only the bottom half of the bulb; this is to prevent the bulb opening and sending up several small flower stalks instead of one large one. A narcissus bulb may be entirely covered, or a portion of the blossom-end may remain exposed if the pot is small. In a five-inch pot three or four tulips may be planted, close to the side of the pot, with their tops entirely covered. Any lily bulb larger than a hyacinth should have a six-inch pot and be covered to the depth of an inch.

After planting, water thoroughly and set the pots in a dark corner of a cellar, or in a dark room or closet, otherwise the tops will start before the roots and the bloom will be small. For more than a month they will require no attention but a thorough watering about once a week.

More satisfactory than potting, to persons who can buy bulbs freely, is to use seed-pans. One of these, made of ordinary pot-clay, but far wider in proportion to depth, and ten inches in diameter, will accommodate half a dozen hyacinths or large narcissi, or a dozen tulips; the cost will be less than that of six pots and the effect much finer. All bulbs planted in a seed-pan should be of the same variety, so that all may be of equal height as well as of the same period of blooming.

In ordering hyacinths the novice will do well to leave the selection of varieties to the dealers, specifying that they are for indoor planting. Roman hyacinths should be named if wanted, for they are a class by themselves; they are cheaper as well as smaller than the Dutch hyacinths proper; they have the special merit of blooming several weeks earlier than other varieties, and of producing flower-clusters small enough to wear. Three of them may be planted in a five-inch pot. They are sold by color, not by special name; they may be had in yellow, pink, rose, light-blue, and white, the latter being the earliest.

Hyacinths grow freely and bloom well in water alone. Glasses made for the purpose should be used; they are in several shapes, the best and most effective in appearance being of what is known in the trade as "Tye's shape-a low vase with a broad bottom. The glass should be so nearly filled with clear water that the bottom of the bulb nearly touches the surface. The glass should be set in a dark, cool place until the roots reach the bottom; then it may be brought to the light. A hyacinth grown in water will be useless for subsequent planting; potted hyacinths may be used a second year, but their bloom will be smaller.

Hyacinths in pots should remain in a dark, cool place until the leaves are well started and the flower-head has been forced so high that the stem may be seen. When brought into rooms they should be kept from the sun and strong light for several days. At first their leaves and buds will appear pallid--almost white-but they rapidly regain their proper color. They should also be placed in saucers or trays, which should never be without water while the plants are in bloom. They do not require sunshine.

The narcissi should receive the same general treat

ment as hyacinths, except that they may be brought to the light earlier, for as their flowers appear at tips of long stalks they cannot easily bloom before getting above their sheathing of leaves, as hyacinths will do if too soon exposed.

Not all the narcissi do well indoors. One of the best varieties for beginners is also one of the cheapest and is of rich fragrance; it is called the campernel, and bears two or more large single yellow flowers on each stalk. By the dozen it costs about two cents per bulb, or one cent by the hundred. Three may be planted in a fiveinch pot or a dozen in a ten-inch pan, and each will send up several flower-stalks in succession. The campernel is of the jonquil class, which contains also the single and double jonquil, both yielding small flowers of exquisite perfume; half a dozen of these may be planted in a single pot. Of "show" varieties, more remarkable for beauty and size than for fragrance, the finest are Emperor, Empress, Golden Spur, Horsfieldii, and Sir Watkin; they cost from ten to twenty cents each, and will delight any one who plants them. They should have about as much space as hyacinths. Cheap and satisfactory double varieties are Orange Phoenix (white), and Von Sion (yellow); either costs about five cents per bulb.

All amateurs should try the water narciss ́s commonly called the "Chinese Lily"; the bulbs, which are very large and cost about ten cents each, should be set on stones in a pan or dish of water, singly or several together, with bits of stone about them to keep them from moving. Each bulb throws up several stalks of fragrant flowers, and the foliage remains luxuriant and ornamental long after the flowers have faded.

Still another section of narcissi—the polyanthus, or many-flowered-is cheap and interesting. All the narcissi-except the so-called Chinese Lily, which does not bloom a second time-improve with age, the bulbs slowly increasing by division.

The flower-stalks of bulbs should be cut away as soon as the bloom fades and water should be given more sparingly; the plants will be ornamental, through their foliage alone, for several weeks, but they can at once be removed to cellar or elsewhere if their places are needed for blooming plants. When the leaves begin to turn yellow water should be almost entirely withheld. In the late spring the leaves and roots will have died; the bulbs should then be taken from the earth and kept in as dry and cool a place as possible until the following autumn.

The blooming season of even a small collection of bulbs may be made to extend over almost half a year by successive plantings. If some bulbs are purchased and planted as soon as they reach the market (in late August or early September) some of the white Roman hyacinths may be hurried into bloom at Thanksgiving by bringing them to the light three weeks after planting. Others will rapidly succeed these, after which will bloom the Chinese lilies, followed by other narcissi, which will be succeeded by early varieties of the Dutch hyacinths. Successive plantings in mid-October, at Thanksgiving and at Christmas will provide for succession. From a dozen hyacinths or narcissi of various

kinds, planted at one time, not more than three plants are likely to endeavor to bloom in a single week. Of all the bulbous plants named, tulips are of slowest growth.

All house-plants mentioned above, whether bulbous or otherwise (except the primrose), need and deserve an occasional washing to remove dust from their leaves and stems. The best method is to place pot and plant in a bathtub or washtub and sprinkle thoroughly; any method of sprinkling will answer, although the work can be done easiest and best with the rubber bulb sprinkler that is made for the purpose.

A sharp watch should be kept for insects, although not many of the plants above-named are subject to them. The most common one is the plant-louse, a light-green bug a little larger than the head of a pin; it appears first on the youngest, tenderest shoots of softwooded plants and vines and multiplies with great rapidity. It may be banished by frequent use of a strong decoction of tobacco-say an ounce to a quart of hot water; this water, when cold, can be applied to the affected parts of small plants with a camel's-hair brush. Should the plant be large and badly affected, it should be sprinkled with tobacco solution or dipped in it.