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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
The Pleasures and Advantages of Driving Tours-An Ideal
Holiday-Untravelled England-Speed, the Curse of our
Century-Rural Inns-The Country as seen from the Road
and the Rail-'The Highlands of Essex'-A little-visited
Land-A Country of Old-time Buildings and Historic Spots
-Our Programme-Highways and Byways The Langdon
Hills-How Guide-books are sometimes compiled-—A Grand
Prospect The Opinion of an Experienced Traveller
CHAPTER II.
A Forsaken Church-East Horndon-The resting-place of
Queen Anne Boleyn's Head-Relics -Herongate-An old
Coaching Inn-Chat with an Ostler--A Wayside Memorial--
A Fine Sign--The Pleasures of Photography-Ingatestone--
The Scene of Lady Audley's Secret'- Margaretting-A
Unique Brass-A Quaint Signboard
PAGE
I
19
CHAPTER III.
We come across a Character--Origin of the Names of Places-
Guide-books at fault-The Good Woman'-An old half-
timbered Hostelry-Roadside England The Love of the
Country - Boreham- A Fine Altar-tomb--- The Ancient
Craftsman and the Modern Workman-An Old English
Farmstead-The Farm of the Future -Cottage Gardens-
Witham--At the Sign of the White Hart-The Kindness of
Country People - How to discover Objects of Interest-A
Fruitless Expedition- 'Ghosts not kept here'
36
CHAPTER IV.
An Ancient Hall-Fine Cedars-A terra incognita-Country
Lanes and By-ways-A Quaint little Church and its History
-Puzzling Inscriptions-Curious Names-Tiptree Heath-
A Tradition of Dick Turpin—Layer Marney Tower—A Grand
Building A Sixteenth-century Mansion-Friends on the
Road--A Notable Structure-A Fine Prospect of River,
Land, and Sea
CHAPTER V.
Layer Marney Church-Old Altar-tombs-An Ancient Will-
An English Earthquake-Rooms once occupied by Famous
People-An Historic Farmhouse-A Primitive Letter Box-A
Ford on the Road—A Ruined Church—An Ancient Coaching
Hostelry The Old-fashioned Inn-Inn Signs-Relics of the
Past-A Country Church with Tenth-century Frescoes-
Walls six yards thick-St. Botolph's Priory—A Curious
Church Tower
CHAPTER VI.
A Wayside Inn-Higham- A Pretty Village - Picturesque
Houses The Land of Constable--In the Gloaming-An
Old-time Hostel-Guide Books-Hadleigh-A Quaint Old
Town-An Ave Maria' Bell-An interesting Church-
Ancient Weights and Measures-Curious Chests-A Conceit
in Words-Epitaphs
97
CHAPTER VII.
A Wayside Memorial- Hintlesham - Tombstone Inscriptions
A Hilly Road-Ipswich-A Famous Inn-An interesting Old
House-- An Old-time Interior-An Ancient Hostel-Rush-
mere Heath--A Sea of Gorse-Kesgrave Church — The
Burial-place of the Queen of the Gipsies-The Red Lion of
Martlesham--A Toy River-Woodbridge - A curious Relic —
The Pleasant Deben-Tidal Mills-Seckford Hall-A Home
of the Past
115
Rural Pictures -The Beauty of Age in Buildings-Wickham
Market-A Curious Bell-Provincialisms and Folk-lore
Country Characters-A Decayed Coaching Inn--A Windmill
Land-Saxmundham-A Picturesque Village-Poetical Busi-
ness Effusions—The Trials of a Farmer's Life—Bramfield—
An Interesting Church and Curious Tower-A fine Sculptured
Monument-An Old Fresco-A Quaint Epitaph-Ancient
Armour
136
CHAPTER IX.
Halesworth - Quaint Houses and Curious Carvings - Many
Religions and little Religion-Verses by a local Schoolmaster
--Provincial Papers-A singular Sign-Chat with a Miller-
A lonely Church-Bungay-Commercial Travellers-An old
Stronghold-A fine Prospect-Anglers-The Faculty of
Artistic Sight-Mettingham Church and Castle-Trespassing
-A Peal of Silver Bells-Barsham-The Reason of Round
Church Towers-A Tradition-Haunted Houses .
159
CHAPTER X.
Wet Weather-Inn full Beccles-A Fortunate Town-The
Waveney Valley - Thatched Churches — Haddiscoe — A
Dutchlike Landscape-St. Olave's-A Riverside Hotel-
Painters and Scenery-Fritton Church and Broad-A Quiet
Spot-Belated-Old Yarmouth Houses and Rows-A Good-
natured Landlord-Holy Stones'
179
CHAPTER XI.
The tameless Ocean-Caister Castle-Ormesby-Martham-A
grand Old Church-The Land of the Broads -A new Holi-
day Ground-National Parks -The Cash Value of Scenery-
An Old Sign Stalham--A Water Expedition-Norfolk
Wherries-Puzzling Inscriptions-An Ancient Hamlet-A
desolate-looking Country - North Walsham - The Silver
Key-An Ancient Market Cross - Antingham-Gunton Park
Picturesque Roadside England.
195
CHAPTER XII.
Cromer-Flint Building-A Wasting Shore -The Poorer Classes
-Along the Norfolk Coast-Old Fishing Villages-A Bygone
Relic—The Gift of Age-A Hilly Road-The Glamour of
the Unknown-Ingworth Church-An Ancient Hour-glass
Holder - An Old Clerk and his Story-Aylsham-An Old
Posting House-Country Shops-Chat with a Farmer-A
Rose Garden in a Churchyard-Lightning Conductors .
217
CHAPTER XIII.
A Wooded Country-A Gipsy Encampment-Cawston Church—
A Grand Carved Roof-The 'Plough-light' Gallery-A Fine
Rood Screen-The Saint who cured the Gout-An Interest-
ing Fresco-A Curiosity-Sall Church-Hard Times-The
Cottager's Want - Ancient Brasses - Birds in Church-
Reepham-Names not always pronounced as spelt--Two
Churches in one Churchyard-A Quaint Tomb to a Crusader 237
CHAPTER XIV.
Bawdeswell-Deserted Highways-The Country from the Box
Seat-A Rebus-A Sudden Storm-East Dereham-Facts
in Paintings-A House of MDII.'--Architectural Scenery—
Cowper's Grave-A Pious Theft-St. Withburga's Well—A
Coloured Windmill-A curious Church Tower-A Ford on
the Way-Watton-The Scene of the Tragedy of the 'Babes
in the Wood'-A Steam Dog-cart-Another Rebus-The
Beauties of Wet Weather
256
CHAPTER XV.
Stormy Weather and Stony Roads-Over Croxton Heath-The
Making of a Highwayman-Thetford-An Old-time Hostel-
Ancient Earthworks-On the Wrong Road-The Charms of
the Unknown-A Relic of the Coaching Age-A Gipsies' En-
campment-An extraordinary Photographic Result-Ingham
-Trespassers will be Persecuted'!-The Pleasures of Pho-
tography.
274
Bury St. Edmunds-Mr. Pickwick a Personality-At the Sign of
the Angel-An Old-fashioned Host-English-grown Tobacco
-St. Edmund's Ruined Abbey-Curious Relics--The Monks
of old-' For England's Ancient Liberties -An Embalmed
Warrior-The Abbot's Bridge-A Lock of Mary Tudor's
Hair--A Gruesome Volume-A Splendid Norman Tower—
Origin of Gothic Architecture-A Magnificent Church-Flint
Buildings-A Wonderful Roof-A Ghastly Tomb - Old
Brasses and New Ones-A Quaint Epitaph.
290
CHAPTER XVII.
A Pleasant Country-Old Toll-gates-The Homes of the People
-The Modern and the Last Century Traveller - Home
Travel-Ruskin on Railways-A Picturesque Village-An
Old Tudor Mansion-An Ancient Moated Manor House-
The Beauty of Old Buildings-An Ideal Hostelry-The
Coaching Inns of the Past-A Prosperous Farmer-One Re-
sult of Agricultural Depression-A Holiday in a Farmhouse
308
CHAPTER XVIII.
Sudbury-The Head of Archbishop Simon--A Gruesome Sight
-Quaint Tombstones-The Restorer again-An aged Clerk
-Old-fashioned Farming--Spoiling Scenery-Iron Buildings
-Past-time Customs-A Round Church-Halstead-An Old
Warrior's Shield-Names of Places on Maps-A Charming
Village Thatched Cottages-A half-timbered Home.
327
CHAPTER XIX.
Rural Inns-A Clever Conceit in Words-An Old Water-mill
A Picture through a Photograph-Braintree-A Homelike
Land-The Pleasures of the Road-A Day's Drive across
Country-Great and Little Leigh-A Village Store'-A
Unique Wooden Effigy -An Old Tudor Gateway - Old
Mansions and Modern Farmsteads
343