is called the kitchen-range, which has been constructed upon the philosophical principles of Count Rumford, a German philosopher, the first person who has applied scientifick discoveries to the ordinary purposes of life. The top of the fire is covered with an iron plate, so that the flame and smoke, instead of ascending, pass through bars on the. one side, and there heat an iron front, against the which food may be roasted as well as by the fire itself; it passs on heating stoves and boilers as it goes, and the smoke is not suffered to pass up the chimney till it can no longer be of any use. On the other side is an oven heated by the same fire, and vessels for boiling may be placed on the plate over the fire. The smoke finally sets a kind of wheel in motion in the chimney, which turns the spit. I could not but admire the comfort and cleanliness of every thing about the kitchen ; a dresser, as white as when the wood was new, the copper and tin vessels bright and burnished; the chain, in which the spit plays, bright; the plates and dishes ranged in order along the shelves: and I could not but wish our dirty Domingo were here to take a lesson of English cleanliness. There is a back kitchen in which all the dirty work is done, into which water is conveyed by pipes. The order and cleanliness of every thing made even this room cheerful, though under ground, where the light enters only from an area, and the face of the sky is never seen..

And now, for my own apartment, where I am now writing. It is on the second floor, the more therefore to my liking, as it is less noisy, and I breathe in a freer atmosphere. My bed, though neither covered with silk nor satin, has as much ornament as is suitable; silk or satin would not give that clean appearance, which the English always require, and which I have already learnt to delight in. Hence the damask curtains, which were used in the last generation, have given place to linens. These are full enough to hang in folds; by day they are gathered round the bed posts, which are light pillars of mahogany supporting a frame work, covered with the same furniture as the curtains; and valances are fastened round this frame, both withinside the

* This is a mistake of the author's. Count Rumford is an American.-TR. Vol. V. No. 2. O

curtains and without, and again round the sides of the bedstead. The blan kets are of the natural colour of the wool, quite plain; the sheets plain also. I have never seen them flounced nor laced, nor ever seen a striped or coloured blanket. The counterpane is of all English manufactures the least tasteful; it is of white cotton, ornamented with cotton knots, in shapes as graceless as the cut box in a garden. My window curtains are of the same pattern as the bed; a mahogany press holds my clothes, an oval looking-glass swung lengthways stands on the dressing-table. A compact kind of chest holds the bason, the soap, the tooth brush, and water glass, each in a separate compartment; and a looking-glass, for the purpose of shaving at, (for Englishmen usually shave themselves) slips up and down behind, the water-jug and water-bottle stand below, and the whole shuts down a-top, and closes in front, like a cabinet. The room is carpeted; here I have my fire, my table, and my cassette; here I study, and here minute down every thing, which I see or learn; how industriously you will perceive, and how faithfully, you, who best know me, will best know.

My honoured father will say to all this, How many things are there here which I do not want?-But you, my dear mother, I think I see you looking round the room while you say, How will Manuel like to leave these luxuries and return to Spain? How anxiously I wish to leave them, you will not easily conceive, as you have never felt that longing love for your own country, which absence from it renders a passion, and almost a disease. Fortunate as I am in having such rare advantages of society and friendship, and happy as I am in the satisfaction where with I reflect every night that no opportunity of inquiry or observation has been lost during the day, still my greatest pleasure is to think how fast the days and weeks are passing on, and that every day I am one day nearer the time of my return. I never longed half so earnestly to return from Alcala, as I now do to enter my native place, to see the shield over the door-way, to hear the sound of our own water-wheel, of the bells of St. Claras, of Domingo's viola at evening, to fondle my own dogs, to hear my own language, to kneel at mass in the church where I was bay

The celebrated cathedral of St. Paul is better described, than we have before seen it.

The cathedral church of St. Paul is not more celebrated than it deserves to be. No other nation in modern times has reared so magnificent a mon ument of piety. I never behold it without regretting,that such a church should be appropriated to heretical worship; that like a whited sepulchre, there should be death within.

In the court before the grand entrance stands a statue of Queen Anne, instead of a cross; a figure as ill-executed as it is ill-placed, which has provoked some epigrams even in this country, indifferent as the the taste in sculpture is here, and little as is the sense of religious decorum. On entering the church I was impressed by its magnitude. A fine anecdote is related of the effects this produced upon a female Esquimaux:-Quite overpowered with wonder when she she stood under the dome, she leaned upon her conductor, as if sinking under the strong feeling of awe, and fearfully asked him,Did man make it? or was it put here? My own sensations were of the same character, yet it was wonder at human power, unmingled with any other kind of awe; not that feeling which a temple should inspire; not so much a sense that the building in which I stood was peculiarly suitable for worship, as that it could be suitable for nothing else. Gothick architecture produces the effect of sublimity, though always without simplicity, and often without magnitude; so perhaps does the Saracenick: if the Grecians ever produced the same effect it is by magnitude alone.

But the architecture of the an. cients is altered, and materially injured by the alteration, when adapted to cold climates, where it is necessary, when

Ah, God of my soul, take me from hence! alas! England is not a country for me.-TR.

the light is admitted, to exclude the air; the windows have always a littleness, always appear misplaced; they are holes cut in the wall; not, as in the Gothick, natural and essential parts of the general structure.

The air in all the English churches which I have yet entered is damp, cold, confined, and unwholesome, as if the graves beneath tainted it. No better proof can be required of the wisdom of enjoining incense. I have complained that the area in their ordinary churches is crowded; but the opposite fault is perceivable in this great cathedral. The choir is but a very small part of the church; service was going on there, being hurried over as usual in week days, and attended only by two or three old women, whose piety deserved to meet with better instructors. The vergers however paid so much respect to this service, such as it is, that they would not shew us the church till it was over. There are no chapels, no other altar than that in the choir ;-For what then can the hereticks have erected so huge an edifice ? It is as purposeless as the Pyramids.

Here are suspended all the flags, which were taken in the naval victories of the late war. I do not think that the natural feeling which arose within me at seeing the Spanish colours among them influences me, when I say that they do not ornament the church, and that, even if they did, the church is not the place for them. They might be appropriate offerings in a temple of Mars; but certainly there is nothing in the revealed will of God which teaches us that he should be better pleased with the blood of man in battle, than with that of bulls and of goats in sacrifice. The palace, the houses of legislature, the admiralty, and the tower where the regalia are deposited, should be decorated with these trophies; so also should Greenwich be, the noble asylum for their old seamen ; and even in the church a flag might perhaps fitly be hung over the tomb of him who won it and fell in the victory. Monuments are erecting here to all the naval captains who fell in these actions ; some of them are not finished; those which are do little honour to the arts of England. The artists know not what to do with their villanous costume, and, to avoid uniforms in marble, make their unhappy statues half naked. One

sufficiently startling. It is just below the dome; and when I was on the one side and my guide on the other, the whole breadth of the dome being between us he shut-to the door, and the sound was like a peal of thunder rolling among the mountains. The scratch of a pin against the wall, and the lowest whisper were distinctly heard across. The inside of the cupola is covered with pictures by a certain sir James Thornhill they are too high to be seen distinctly from any place except the gallery immediately under them, and if there were nothing else to repay the fatigue of the ascent it would be labour in vain.

scene may be formed, and you know how delightful it is to contemplate images of terrour with a sense of security.

Having at last reached the summit of the dome, I was contented. The way up to the cross was by a ladder; and as we could already see as far as the eye could reach, there was nothing above to reward me for a longer and more laborious ascent. The old bird's-eye views, which are now disused because they are out of fashion, were of more use, than any thing which supplies their place: half plan, half picture, they gave an idea of the place they represented more accurately than pictures, and more vividly than plans. I would have climbed St. Paul's, if it had been only to see London thus mapped below me, and though there had been nothing beautiful or sublime in the view; few objects however are so sublime, if by sublimity we understand that which completely fills the imagination to the utmost measure of its powers, as the view of a huge city thus seen at once:

Much as I had been impressed by the size of the building on first entering it, my sense of its magnitude was heightened by the prodigious length of the passages which we traversed, and the seeming endlessness of the steps we mounted. We kept close to our conductor with a sense of danger that it is dangerous to do otherwise was exemplified not long since by a person-house-roofs, the chimneys of which who lost himself here, and remained two days and nights in this dismal solitude. At length he reached one of the towers in the front; to make him self heard was impossible; he tied his handkerchief to a stick and hung it out as a signal of distress, which at last was seen from below, and he was rescued. The best plan in such cases would be to stop the clock, if the way to it could be found.

In all other towers, which I had ever ascended, the ascent was fatiguing, but no ways frightful. Stone steps winding round and round a stone pillar from the bottom up to the top, with just room to admit you between the pillar and the wall, make the limbs ache and the head giddy, but there is nothing to give a sense of danger. Here was a totally different scene : the ascent was up the cupola, by staircases and stages of wood, which had all the seeming insecurity of scaffolding. Projecting beams hung with cobwebs and black with dust, the depth below, the extent of the gloomy dome within which we were inclosed, and the light which just served to shew all this, sometimes dawning before us, sometimes fading away behind, now slanting from one side, and now leaving us almost in utter darkness: of such materials you may conceive how terrifying a

formed so many turrets; towers and steeples; the trees and gardens of the inns of court, and the distant squares, forming so many green spots in the map; Westminster Abbey on the one hand with Westminster Hall, an object scarcely less conspicuous; on the other the Monument, a prodigious column worthy of a happier occasion and a less lying inscription; the Tower and the masts of the shipping rising behind it ; the river with its three bridges and all its boats and barges; the streets immediately within view blackened with moving swarms of men, and lines of carriages. To the north were Hampstead and Highgate on their eminences, southward the Surry hills. Where the city ended it was impossible to distinguish; it would have been more beautiful, if, as at Madrid, the capital had been circumscribed within walls, and the open country had commenced immediately without its limits. In every direction the lines of houses ran out as far as the eye could follow them,only the patches of green were more frequently interspersed towards the extremity of the prospect, as the lines diverged farther from each other. It was a sight which awed me and made me melancholy. I was looking down upon the habitations of a million of human be. ings; upon the single spot whereon