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The Cave of the Magic Pool

THE MEANING OF A FRAGMENT

BY JOHN C. MERRIAM

President of the Carnegie Institution of Washington

ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR

HE story of life as it comes to us through the ages must in certain cases be built upon fragments. This does not signify that it is therefore untrustworthy. Nor should it be assumed that it is always fragmentary. A clear understanding of the record requires appreciation of the importance of our evidence, even if it rest upon meagre data. The following incidents in the course of cave exploration in a search for knowledge of ancient life in California illustrate conclusions which seem not to be avoided, though based on scanty materials. It was a part of the programme in this investigation to examine every suggestion of evidence that might lead to discovery of caverns in which remains of ancient life could be entombed. In searching for new clews we learned from Wintun Indian workmen of a cave long known because of reputed magic qualities of a pool in one of the larger chambers. Though the story came to us repeatedly, it was always in the same form: of a cave with a magic pool called in the Indian language, "Samwel," and that it was visited for the potency of its water in bringing good fortune. Always it concluded with an account of three maidens who failed to obtain good luck at the pool, and were told by a very aged woman of other water with stronger magic. This second pool was said to lie in a remote chamber, and to escape discovery excepting for the most adventurous. In the course of a long search for this more powerful charm the three maidens came to a pit with sloping borders. As they approached the entrance, one of them slipped on the moist rock. The others tried to save her, but

she fell screaming into the darkness. They heard her "strike and strike again, and all was still." A rescue party was unable to reach the bottom of the well and efforts to find the maiden were abandoned.

The story of the cave of "Samwel" seemed to present the possibility of a cavern of considerable magnitude, in some part of which remains of ancient life might be discovered, and plans were therefore made to visit this locality. Though it lay in a wild, unsettled region, there was little difficulty in locating the entrance of the cave. About sixteen miles above the mouth of the McCloud River an extensive series of galleries was found opening on the face of a limestone bluff three hundred and thirty-five feet above the river. Nor was there difficulty in finding a pool located in the third chamber. Whether or no its waters gave us the good fortune, it is true that we succeeded also in the real objective of our search. On the floor of the cavern there were ancient deposits containing numerous bones and teeth representing animals of California in a period probably antedating the present by many tens of thousands of years.

The second pool and the deep pit we did not find. Three expeditions failed in search for the well, and in the attempt to verify the story that had led us to this cave. Neither fascination of following the lead of a legendary description nor lure of unexplored regions could bring success. In the third attempt we made heroic efforts, crawled through passageways so narrow and tortuous as to seem impassable, and entered chambers apparently never before visited by white men; but without obtaining evidence indicating that the legend was based on fact.

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that he had found the deep pit, and requesting that I return as early as possible with all the rope-ladder and rope available. The next afternoon I arrived at Samwel Cave camp with a pack-horse carrying fifty feet of rope-ladder and all the loose ends of rope to be obtained in camp.

Furlong told me that on entering the cavern shortly after our departure he had noticed a narrow ledge along the wall of the second chamber. On following this shelf he discovered a series of galleries not seen in earlier exploration. At the end of these passageways was a pit with sloping borders. Rough measurement indicated a depth of approximately ninety feet. After transmitting word to me by a roundabout route, Furlong had returned to the cave and begun preparations for

VOL. LXXXII.-18

ment to the edge of the pit. The ladder was firmly fastened. A few pieces of burning paper were dropped into the well to make certain that the air was safe for breathing. Then we drew straws for choice as to order of descent. Furlong's straw was the longer and he elected to go first.

As he descended, Furlong described the cavern opening to the light of his candle. "It widens as I go down," he said, "from a diameter of ten feet at the top to a great chamber below. And here as the ladder begins to hang free of the wall is a sharp projecting spine of rock that thrusts itself between the ropes and makes climbing difficult." Then after a longer wait, during which he moved somewhat unsteadily over the rickety lower fifty feet of odds and ends of rope and firewood, I

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of thought in the ensuing moment I often recall, and the various possibilities that presented themselves. To go a little less than one hundred feet down an imperfectly constructed rope-ladder to help a man fighting without weapons against a puma offered little hope of real assistance. If the lion should win, would it attempt to climb the ladder? Before any plan was framed that seemed to have value under these special circumstances, Furlong shouted: "It is a fossil mountainlion embedded in the cave floor." Then, almost without pause, and with intonation indicating that he could hardly believe his eyes, came the words: "And here

on the skull of the mountain-lion. A few feet beyond, Furlong was bending over a delicate human skeleton that lay huddled in a dark heap. The body had not moved from the spot where the girl crashed against the solid stone immediately under the opening. Only the bones and a film of black mould remained. Here and there a beginning crystal of stalagmite gleamed in the dark covering, but the lapse of time had not been great enough to allow the lime deposited from dripping water to form a complete incrustation.

This was the end of the trail we had followed so long. Was it also the end of the trail the maiden sought to follow?

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Could it be that in the tragedy which terminated her search she had found the pool of greater magic? As we asked this question our candles were held higher, and for the first time we looked about the

cavern.

A part of the bottom of this huge chimney was covered by masses of rock with lime incrustation. The broad floor was partly encrusted with sparkling stalagmite. The lowest area carried a layer of soft brownish clay.

Scattered about wherever we looked were skulls and parts of skeletons of many animals, some so deeply covered with lime as almost to merge with the floor. The mountain-lion at the foot of the ladder was heavily encased and cemented in the rock. Near the skeleton of the maiden was a large skull with gracefully curving horns. No head like it had been

known to man before. Close by lay another creature with wide sweeping ox-like horns-a type of animal then seen for the first time. Across the cave was a perfect skull of a bear, encrusted and cemented to the floor. No human had known this type alive or dead. Spread before us was a veritable museum of ancient life, including also deer, squirrel, porcupine, raccoon, fox, rabbit, and many others. We wandered about the cavern attracted by each new treasure, but soon exhausting the means of expression that seemed adequate for this experience.

The remains which we saw on the cave floor belonged to an assemblage of animals not previously known. They represented a stage in ancient life of America long antedating the fauna now ranging over mountains and valleys of northern California. Shut off from the outside world in this

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The skull of the mountain lion at the foot of the ladder, with its original covering of stalagmite.

been at a very recent period compared with that of the strange creatures among whose incrusted remains she had come to

rest.

Nowhere in the chamber was there evidence of standing water, unless it once occupied the area now covered by soft clay. The maiden who led us on the trail of the magic pool failed in her special mission, but had marked the way to knowledge of mysteries as great as those she sought to fathom.

For hours we studied the cave and its treasures. Then seeing that it was late we made preparations for return to camp. In the course of the afternoon I had stated to Furlong that the study of this cave and its many fascinating problems

Weary with the long day's work we made our way carefully to the galleries above. At the edge of the pit we drew up the ladder with the bear skull attached. It was heavy. We pulled together. Then Furlong held fast while I laid back the folds of the ladder as they came over the edge. After seemingly interminable hauling, the last rung appeared with the cord fastening the bear skull. I lifted back the last fold. When I turned again Furlong was standing with one hand reaching over the well, holding the end of the ladder, but rigid as if turned to stone. The corduroy coat and the bear skull were gone. Suddenly there was a crash, and I realized that the cord which tied the skull to the ladder had

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