though here it had an accompaniment of all route as he went to each cathedral of the the Kremlin bells. After a magnificent Te Kremlin to « salute » the tombs of his foreDeum the mass began, in which, before com- fathers and to kiss the holy relics. He and municating, the Czar was to be anointed with the Czarina walked under a baldachin that the holy chrism (the « seal of the gift of the was a replica of the one in the cathedral, Holy Ghost ») on forehead, eyelids, nostrils, only bigger. This most splendid umbrella lips, ears, breast, and hands. The oil for this since the world began was carried by Chevaanointing is prepared by the priests with the liers Gardes (all the honorable duties of the greatest care, in vessels of silver; and they coronation day fall to this regiment, and I themselves fast absolutely for sixteen hours really don't know how anybody could be before a coronation, spending the time in crowned without them); but I did n't like it, prayer. After the Emperor, the Empress is for it looked very heavy, and almost hid the anointed at the holy doors, but only on the royal pair, though I did catch the shine of forehead. Also in the holy communion she the diamond crowns and gold mantles. All receives as an ordinary member of the Greek this time we were waiting on the route the Church; but the Emperor, on the day of his Emperor had already gone, and in a real coronation, « in view of the sovereignty that crowd and a real noise, - cheering and clash resides in his person,» receives as the priests of trumpets at the national hymn,

- our veils receive, in both kinds separately.

pulled one way and our trains another, our Of all this I saw nothing because of the in- heads in a very hot sun, and our feet in thin tervening pillar. But I did see their Majesties shoes on the wet red cloth, which had got leave their thrones, and go down the steps of soaked in the showers of rain. One trementhe platform to the holy doors of the screen, dous crush, and we could breathe again. The closely attended by the colonel of the Cheva- Emperor had passed up the Red Stair, had liers Gardes with his drawn sword, and pre- turned to salute his people, receiving a treceded and followed by endless high dignitaries, mendous acclamation in answer, and had returning in the same order after the anoint- passed into the palace. ing and the holy communion. After this there I had thought we were now to follow his was very little more of the ceremonial in the Majesty up the stair and see the imperial cathedral. At the end of the usual service « banquet. Not a bit of it. We were led at there were some special prayers and chants once to the «diplomatic lunch » spread in the for the newly crowned pair, — « Long life to Salle d'Or, or Hall of the Czarina. I was the crowned of God!» — and in the silence extremely disappointed. It seemed to me a that followed the priests held up the cross break in the ceremonial which robbed it of for their Majesties to kiss, the Emperor re- half its effect, and so I found that it did when, placed the crown, which he had laid aside at our long meal over, we were taken to the the beginning of the mass, and carrying the Granovitaya Palata and ranged in order beglobe and scepter, moved with the Empress fore the throne, but at some distance from toward the cathedral doors.

it, to see the Emperor and Empress served. My little French neighbor breathed a long One could not help feeling, after so long a sigh of relief (we had been standing just five pause between the church services and the hours), and began, so to speak, to pick up his banquet, that their crowns had been off in the wife and daughter and be off. «Wait a interval, and that they had certainly had a minute,» I said; « let's hear how they greet «snack » of something or other, and perhaps him outside. And at that instant the people a cigarette. For me the pomp and dignity must have caught sight of the Emperor, for and splendor worthy of the coronation were we heard a tremendous acclamation again and over when the Czar turned from the Red again repeated. Mr. M- looked dubious Stair into the palace door. when I told him of the enthusiasm. «They The Granovitaya Palata is a room of endwere probably told to do it,” he said; and I'm less associations in Russian history. In apafraid they were. For from where E—sat pearance it is very characteristic-a room in the tribune he could see the crowd in the that one does not forget. It was already very inclosures perfectly well; how each man who full when we were summoned there. The dais came in showed his ticket, and was probably on which their Majesties were to be served known without that to the police guarding was placed in one corner of the room, under the entrances; and how the cheering was led a high canopy; and facing it at an angle, but each time by the same people posted in dif- hidden by the huge column that holds up the ferent parts of the crowd. Be that as it ceiling, were the orchestra and choir who may, cheering continued all along the Czar's were to make music during the feast. Tables

were spread in different parts of the room for and were on duty without food till three in the ladies in waiting, etc. On the dais a small afternoon; and Mr. L- says that it was table had been set before the two thrones, and torture to smell the good things as they were at the corners of the dais stood four Chevaliers carried under his nose. I wonder he could reGardes, sword in hand. Of course we waited sist transfixing a cutlet with his sword. When a long time (that « snack »!), and my French- at last he got home to food, he was too tired man became so impatient and noisy that to touch it, and could only throw himself upon Stürmer, a master of ceremony, had to an- his bed and sleep and sleep. We found ournounce the Emperor several times to keep selves very tired, too, that night, when the

him quiet. At last, just as a gray pigeon curtain was down on all these splendors. But had flown in at the window, circled above our even «la sévère mees,» as the Frenchman heads, and flown out again («Very lucky,» said called me, might yawn then. The play was the Russians), here his Majesty was. We were over. I looked out of my windows as I got to go when he asked for wine, after an old into bed, and tried to imagine a glimmer in custom; for John the Terrible, it seems, was the sky over the Kremlin, the theater of the so violent in his cups that the foreigners were morning. Nothing of the sort! Instead, the allowed to retire when he began to drink, dark and rain were shutting out the last leaving him to his faithful subjects. Mr. lights. Good night, Emperor and Empress! Stürmer seemed very anxious for our safety, On Monday evening, the 28th (16th), was for Alexander III. had not got through his the third great sight of the coronation after soup even when he bundled us off. I longed the entry and the service itself—the state to rush up to the throne and ask if I might n't ball in the Kremlin palace and the illuminastay. As we left we met another dish, being tion of Moscow. I put them together, for escorted by six Chevaliers Gardes to the on the three nights of illuminations it was Grand Maréchal de la Cour, who served the the only time that I saw the lighting of the Emperor. I am surprised that it got past Kremlin, and it remains to me a part of the the soldiers outside. An officer whom we saw state ball. It was lovely, and curious, too, to there has told us since that they left their look out from the windows of the Granovitaya barracks at half-past three in the morning, Palata at the wonderful tower Ivan Velikii

outlined in light against the deep blue night pieces of plate that had been sent to the Czar sky, and to step upon the palace terrace from with the offering of bread and salt by the one of the enormous halls was like stepping various governments of Russia. Perhaps the into fairyland. I was with Mr. S— and finest was one from the government of MosColonel B- The former has seen all the cow, a very handsome gold plate with enameled beautiful illuminations of Rome, and the lat- arms in medallions. The salt-cellar with this ter the best of Paris and the whole of Italy; plate was a tiny copy of the famous crown of yet they agreed that this surpassed them all. Monomachus, every detail exact, and even the It certainly was quite, quite beautiful. With bordering of fur imitated in all its softness the best possible judgment, every architec- in silver. In the throne-room the insignia were tural line had been followed in the lighting, spread out on their velvet cushions, looking and the Kremlin stood revealed in the dark- more gorgeous than ever under the thousands ness, «mystic, wonderful.» One's eye followed of lights. But I preferred seeing them on the the lights along the top of the wall to each Emperor and Empress. Altogether, we all curious tower; along the wall again to the enjoyed our evening, and — retailed her grouped churches with every outline marked; conversation with the royalties with her and « up, the pinnacled glory reached,» to the usual knack. They all appear to have been shining crosses that crowned the whole, and very much interested in the pigeon's flying in looked as if they were made of the stars on the coronation day, and evidently thought themselves. It was an unforgettable sight. it too good to be true. The pigeon will be a

The « polonaise ball » in its way was very more sacred bird than ever in Russia. fine and stately. There was no dancing except I pass over the ball at the governor-genthe polonaise, and that is not a dance! And eral's on Tuesday, the ball given by the noit was gone through by Emperor and Empress, bility of Moscow on Thursday, and the ball at senior grand dukes and grand duchesses, for- the German embassy on Friday. For this last eign princes, one or two court officials, am- the Emperor of Germany sent the silver all bassadors and ambassadresses alone. The the way from Berlin. diplomats were all collected in the Granovi- The gala performance at the theater on taya Palata, where each turn of the polonaise Wednesday evening, May 30 (18), was considbegan and ended, so that we saw very well. ered a great success. For my part, I did n't And once General Greig asked me to join the think it remarkable, except for the ladies' procession with him, my shining train spread jewels and the men's decorations. The pit out at full length behind with great effect. was given up to men entirely, and not one man I was delighted, for one could go only with in it was undecorated, from Dolgoroukov, the some Russian notability; and in this way I saw governor-general, with rows and rows of oreverything, as we followed the imperials, to ders upon his breast, to some very young the music of the polonaise from « Life for the subalterns in the back seats, with five decoCzar,» across the curious carpet of the Grano- rations each. As for the imperial box, it vitaya Palata, and over what seemed miles of was absolutely lighted by the diamonds in it. polished floor in the splendid rooms beyond. From crown of head to waist, the Empress and The last of these rooms was given up to ladies, the other ladies were a mass of jewels. Over whose Russian court dress was very effective collars and necklaces of diamonds, strings in such brilliant light. Just as we got into of big pearls hung one after the other upon this room the Empress turned to lead the way the bodies of their dresses. A wonderful disback; and the procession was striking as it play certainly, but the jewels of this court came through these glittering ranks—the are extraordinary in beauty and profusion. almost uniform white of the ladies' dresses At the coronation the Emperor gave each throwing up the men's uniforms and the won- grand duchess a splendid present in precious derful cloth-of-silver and diamonds of Em- stones, and they threw them into a drawer, press and grand duchesses. General Greig somebody said, as if they had been nothing and I squeezed into the doorway to let all this at all. The only person here who can rival splendor pass, and then followed it back to the imperials is Mrs. —, the wife of the the Granovitaya Palata. And here he made «bonanza king, who has appeared at the a very deep bow, and I made him a very fêtes in new necklaces and tiaras each time. deep courtesy and retired into humble life And she evidently could have cut them out. again.

Somebody having expressed admiration of her The procession having passed, we went to jewels to her husband, « Oh,» he said, « I guess look at the illuminations again, and to see the she's only brought a few little things along. beautiful rooms more closely, and the splendid We have kept our illuminated theater pro

VOL. LII.-4-5.