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though here it had an accompaniment of all the Kremlin bells. After a magnificent Te Deum the mass began, in which, before communicating, the Czar was to be anointed with the holy chrism (the «seal of the gift of the Holy Ghost ») on forehead, eyelids, nostrils, lips, ears, breast, and hands. The oil for this anointing is prepared by the priests with the greatest care, in vessels of silver; and they themselves fast absolutely for sixteen hours before a coronation, spending the time in prayer. After the Emperor, the Empress is anointed at the holy doors, but only on the forehead. Also in the holy communion she receives as an ordinary member of the Greek Church; but the Emperor, on the day of his coronation, «< in view of the sovereignty that resides in his person,» receives as the priests receive, in both kinds separately.

Of all this I saw nothing because of the intervening pillar. But I did see their Majesties leave their thrones, and go down the steps of the platform to the holy doors of the screen, closely attended by the colonel of the Chevaliers Gardes with his drawn sword, and preceded and followed by endless high dignitaries, returning in the same order after the anointing and the holy communion. After this there was very little more of the ceremonial in the cathedral. At the end of the usual service there were some special prayers and chants for the newly crowned pair,-«Long life to the crowned of God!»-and in the silence that followed the priests held up the cross for their Majesties to kiss, the Emperor replaced the crown, which he had laid aside at the beginning of the mass, and carrying the globe and scepter, moved with the Empress toward the cathedral doors.

My little French neighbor breathed a long sigh of relief (we had been standing just five hours), and began, so to speak, to pick up his wife and daughter and be off. «Wait a minute,» I said; «let 's hear how they greet him outside. And at that instant the people must have caught sight of the Emperor, for we heard a tremendous acclamation again and again repeated. Mr. M looked dubious when I told him of the enthusiasm. «They were probably told to do it," he said; and I'm afraid they were. For from where E- sat in the tribune he could see the crowd in the inclosures perfectly well; how each man who came in showed his ticket, and was probably known without that to the police guarding the entrances; and how the cheering was led each time by the same people posted in different parts of the crowd. Be that as it may, cheering continued all along the Czar's

route as he went to each cathedral of the Kremlin to «salute » the tombs of his forefathers and to kiss the holy relics. He and the Czarina walked under a baldachin that was a replica of the one in the cathedral, only bigger. This most splendid umbrella since the world began was carried by Chevaliers Gardes (all the honorable duties of the coronation day fall to this regiment, and I really don't know how anybody could be crowned without them); but I did n't like it, for it looked very heavy, and almost hid the royal pair, though I did catch the shine of the diamond crowns and gold mantles. All this time we were waiting on the route the Emperor had already gone, and in a real crowd and a real noise,-cheering and clash of trumpets at the national hymn,—our veils pulled one way and our trains another, our heads in a very hot sun, and our feet in thin shoes on the wet red cloth, which had got soaked in the showers of rain. One tremendous crush, and we could breathe again. The Emperor had passed up the Red Stair, had turned to salute his people, receiving a tremendous acclamation in answer, and had passed into the palace.

I had thought we were now to follow his Majesty up the stair and see the imperial «banquet.» Not a bit of it. We were led at once to the «diplomatic lunch» spread in the Salle d'Or, or Hall of the Czarina. I was extremely disappointed. It seemed to me a break in the ceremonial which robbed it of half its effect, and so I found that it did when, our long meal over, we were taken to the Granovitaya Palata and ranged in order before the throne, but at some distance from it, to see the Emperor and Empress served. One could not help feeling, after so long a pause between the church services and the banquet, that their crowns had been off in the interval, and that they had certainly had a «snack » of something or other, and perhaps a cigarette. For me the pomp and dignity and splendor worthy of the coronation were over when the Czar turned from the Red Stair into the palace door.

The Granovitaya Palata is a room of endless associations in Russian history. In appearance it is very characteristic-a room that one does not forget. It was already very full when we were summoned there. The dais on which their Majesties were to be served was placed in one corner of the room, under a high canopy; and facing it at an angle, but hidden by the huge column that holds up the ceiling, were the orchestra and choir who were to make music during the feast. Tables

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him quiet. At last, just as a gray pigeon had flown in at the window, circled above our heads, and flown out again («Very lucky," said the Russians), here his Majesty was. We were to go when he asked for wine, after an old custom; for John the Terrible, it seems, was so violent in his cups that the foreigners were allowed to retire when he began to drink, leaving him to his faithful subjects. Mr. Stürmer seemed very anxious for our safety, for Alexander III. had not got through his soup even when he bundled us off. I longed to rush up to the throne and ask if I might n't stay. As we left we met another dish, being escorted by six Chevaliers Gardes to the Grand Maréchal de la Cour, who served the Emperor. I am surprised that it got past the soldiers outside. An officer whom we saw there has told us since that they left their barracks at half-past three in the morning,

curtain was down on all these splendors. But even «la sévère mees,» as the Frenchman called me, might yawn then. The play was over. I looked out of my windows as I got into bed, and tried to imagine a glimmer in the sky over the Kremlin, the theater of the morning. Nothing of the sort! Instead, the dark and rain were shutting out the last lights. Good night, Emperor and Empress!

On Monday evening, the 28th (16th), was the third great sight of the coronation after the entry and the service itself-the state ball in the Kremlin palace and the illumination of Moscow. I put them together, for on the three nights of illuminations it was the only time that I saw the lighting of the Kremlin, and it remains to me a part of the state ball. It was lovely, and curious, too, to look out from the windows of the Granovitaya Palata at the wonderful tower Ivan Velikii

outlined in light against the deep blue night sky, and to step upon the palace terrace from one of the enormous halls was like stepping into fairyland. I was with Mr. S- and Colonel B. The former has seen all the beautiful illuminations of Rome, and the latter the best of Paris and the whole of Italy; yet they agreed that this surpassed them all. It certainly was quite, quite beautiful. With the best possible judgment, every architectural line had been followed in the lighting, and the Kremlin stood revealed in the darkness, "mystic, wonderful.» One's eye followed the lights along the top of the wall to each curious tower; along the wall again to the grouped churches with every outline marked; and «up, the pinnacled glory reached,» to the shining crosses that crowned the whole, and looked as if they were made of the stars themselves. It was an unforgettable sight. The «polonaise ball» in its way was very fine and stately. There was no dancing except the polonaise, and that is not a dance! And it was gone through by Emperor and Empress, senior grand dukes and grand duchesses, foreign princes, one or two court officials, ambassadors and ambassadresses alone. The diplomats were all collected in the Granovitaya Palata, where each turn of the polonaise began and ended, so that we saw very well. And once General Greig asked me to join the procession with him, my shining train spread out at full length behind with great effect. I was delighted, for one could go only with some Russian notability; and in this way I saw everything, as we followed the imperials, to the music of the polonaise from «Life for the Czar,» across the curious carpet of the Granovitaya Palata, and over what seemed miles of polished floor in the splendid rooms beyond. The last of these rooms was given up to ladies, whose Russian court dress was very effective in such brilliant light. Just as we got into this room the Empress turned to lead the way back; and the procession was striking as it came through these glittering ranks-the almost uniform white of the ladies' dresses throwing up the men's uniforms and the wonderful cloth-of-silver and diamonds of Empress and grand duchesses. General Greig and I squeezed into the doorway to let all this splendor pass, and then followed it back to the Granovitaya Palata. And here he made a very deep bow, and I made him a very deep courtesy and retired into humble life again.

The procession having passed, we went to look at the illuminations again, and to see the beautiful rooms more closely, and the splendid

VOL. LII.-4-5.

pieces of plate that had been sent to the Czar with the offering of bread and salt by the various governments of Russia. Perhaps the finest was one from the government of Moscow, a very handsome gold plate with enameled arms in medallions. The salt-cellar with this plate was a tiny copy of the famous crown of Monomachus, every detail exact, and even the bordering of fur imitated in all its softness in silver. In the throne-room the insignia were spread out on their velvet cushions, looking more gorgeous than ever under the thousands of lights. But I preferred seeing them on the Emperor and Empress. Altogether, we all enjoyed our evening, and retailed her conversation with the royalties with her usual knack. They all appear to have been very much interested in the pigeon's flying in on the coronation day, and evidently thought it too good to be true. The pigeon will be a more sacred bird than ever in Russia.

I pass over the ball at the governor-general's on Tuesday, the ball given by the nobility of Moscow on Thursday, and the ball at the German embassy on Friday. For this last the Emperor of Germany sent the silver all the way from Berlin.

The gala performance at the theater on Wednesday evening, May 30 (18), was considered a great success. For my part, I did n't think it remarkable, except for the ladies' jewels and the men's decorations. The pit was given up to men entirely, and not one man in it was undecorated, from Dolgoroukov, the governor-general, with rows and rows of orders upon his breast, to some very young subalterns in the back seats, with five decorations each. As for the imperial box, it was absolutely lighted by the diamonds in it. From crown of head to waist, the Empress and the other ladies were a mass of jewels. Over collars and necklaces of diamonds, strings of big pearls hung one after the other upon the bodies of their dresses. A wonderful display certainly, but the jewels of this court are extraordinary in beauty and profusion. At the coronation the Emperor gave each grand duchess a splendid present in precious stones, and they threw them into a drawer, somebody said, as if they had been nothing at all. The only person here who can rival the imperials is Mrs. the wife of the «bonanza king,» who has appeared at the fêtes in new necklaces and tiaras each time. And she evidently could have cut them out. Somebody having expressed admiration of her jewels to her husband, « Oh,» he said, «< I guess she's only brought a few little things along.» We have kept our illuminated theater pro

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