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not crowned, but, in virtue of the title « Head As he said, they are so « precautious. One of the Orthodox Church,» crowns himself. I precaution is rather ingenious. A double row don't know whether a Czarina reigning alone of soldiers is to be placed on each side of the would be allowed the same privilege. route of the procession, the men back to back,
The coronation is fixed for Sunday, the 15th one row facing the procession and one the of May, old style, the 27th ours. The entry houses. into Moscow is some days beforehand, since
Moscow, May 16 (4). the Emperor and Empress are to spend a quiet We reached Moscow this morning, mama and week there. Many court officials have al- l; the rest of the embassy to follow in three ready gone, and by the 7th or 8th most of the days. I have been ill for eight weeks, and the foreign representatives and the actual diplo- Russians recommended an escape out of the matic body will be assembled at Moscow. We great thaw in Petersburg into real spring are deep in preparations (dresses first-I feel here. It is a delight to see the trees in leaf quite ready now to crown the Emperor!), and and the lilac-bushes in flower. We are early ne hears nothing but discussions about arrivals, and the crowds in the streets were horses, carriages, house arrangements, ser- pleased to see us, and thought that we were vants, etc. The ambassadors are exercised grand duchesses at least. The men swept off about horses for their state carriages, the their hats, and the women bowed; and of Russian horse, with all his « points,» being too course we were obliged to return their salutes small. i -sides, if they are too short, their for the sake of the royalties. Very amusing; tails are too long. The Austrians are having but oh! the reaction from visions of green a stable from Vienna; but the French are domes and white cupolas and golden spires to boldly töking the Russian horses and getting the reality of ups and downs of cobblestones | ver the tail difficulty by tying up these long for streets, and the most extraordinary sucuatural tails and fastening on short false cession of different dreadful smells that can qnos. Thy ve had a dress rehearsal, and say be imagined! But from the top of this great the effect is excellent. What it is to be high house I see a long stretch of town under smart!
a wide sky, with churches near and churches · We have received three papers of the beyond, and farther, and quite far off. A «city coronation: the programs of the festivities of churches » indeed! I hope to receive all the from the entry into Moscow to the retu.'n to proper impressions of Moscow presently. St. Petersburg, of she ceremonial of the eni y, and of t.~ pruulzulation of the coronation.
May 17 (5). The account of ti: entry is very magnificent: ONE has heard of Russian dirt: Moscow is its the procession sounds as if it would stretch highest expression, I'm sure. Our baker is frcm the Petrovski Palace outside Moscow to excellent (what a kalatch for breakfast this the Kremlin itself. I suppose that the great morning!), but he has been put into prison mass of the people look forward to this more twice for having such a dirty shop. In Russia! than to anything else. But to those who will What must it have been! This beautiful have the good fortune to see the service of the house was discovered to be in a state of filth. coronation in the cathedral, the great inter- Eight muzhiks were sent for, and two women, est must center there, where the show and and they and Petersburg servants set to work state are invested with a meaning that is yesterday. The superintending is difficult; for comparatively wanting in the other cere- the men in Russia-noble creatures!—will not monies.
scrub, neither will they wash windows; and Several orders have also appeared in the they needed much persuading, precept, and papers with regard to Moscow. No house example. The china and glass man sends proprietor is to let out his windows on the nothing. He has received orders for jugs route of the nrocession. (Some one even said and basins for the Kremlin (where it has just that no window was to be opened on the struck them, I suppose, that the mad forstreets through which it passes.) No private eigners would think them necessary), and person is to on horseback during the neglects everything else. P- got only a
a three weeks. under penalty of a fine of 500 frying-pan, to cook our humble beefsteak in, rubles (£30), so that or' Prince Demidov by seizing it herself and bearing it off from will be abl to afford a morung canter. No the shop. black is to be worn du, ing the time of the
May 21 (9). coronation. a. tle Spa 'ird dined with us PRINCE N. GALITZITT came to-day and told us last night who h: s jitst been to Moscow, where that the Emperor arrived at the Petrovski he found great difhculty in seeing anything. Palace last night. To-morrow at twelve there
is to be a banquet (of course; when is there were the women-place aux dames! Behind anything here without food!), and at two the the second, still farther back, came the Czar of all the Russias mounts his horse and men. rides into the ancient capital to be crowned, The governor-general had invited all the the Empress following in a gold carriage. diplomats to see the procession from his winHis Majesty seems to be in about the middle dows. We, however, having a house on the of the enormously long procession. Already route, thought we would remain under our every available flag, I should think, has been own flag on our big balcony. The landlord had hung on the line of march. As far as I can decorated it very well with red cloth, and a see on each side-to the Tverskaya Gate on big Russian flag-yellow, white, and blackthe right, and to the governor-general's on was hung out on a long pole from the center, the left-there is a flutter of red, white, and supported on each side by the ambassador's blue. There is, however, a decided sameness flags. From one of the small balconies hung in the decorations, and I see no mottos or a Union Jack, and from the other a Russian devices, for instance, -such a nice form of mercantile flag-white, blue, and red. greeting, - with one striking exception. The After lunch (our friends opposite must have nobles of Moscow have put up decorations thought us mad not to come out before) we opposite the governor-general's house, two of filed into our balconies, the men all in uniform which are poles with tablets affixed. On the and the ladies in their smartest dresses. Perfirst is an inscription: « May thy scepter ex- haps it would have been better to look on tend over » -- I've forgotten what; the whole as entire strangers. We were distracted by world, let us say. But the second has this, personal interest in the people who composed and, as it has been remarked, under a portrait the « sight »; bowing to half the society of of Michael, the first of the Romanoffs, called Petersburg, it seemed to me, courtesying to to the throne by the boyars, or great nobles: grand duchesses, to the Empress, the Em« Mayest thou listen to the voice of thy peror himself, and returning the salutations people, the people who elected thy ances- of scores of the officers whom we know, who tors; for the voice of the people is the voice lowered their swords in our honor. I was of God.» (Magna Charta over again!) certainly disappointed in the bit of the pro
cession that I looked forward to most-the Tuesday, May 22 (10). « Députés des Peuplades Asiatiques soumises I HAVE seen the Emperor's entry into Mos- à la Russie,» which promised to be the most cow, and I realize now, for the first time, how original, something that one could see in much anxiety was really felt about its pass- Russia only. The opening of the procession ing off well. Passing off well! That's rather was characteristic: Kozlov, the head of the vague, but we all talk in that way now; and police, and twelve policemen. Then came after all, it 's an undefined dread. The Em- the Emperor's private escort, very handsome peror went by quite safe, and now he is at in red and gold, two Cossack regiments, the the Kremlin. «Thank God, that is over!» a Cossack deputies, and my friends the Asiatics. Russian said to mama just now, with a sigh No wonder I did n't find them imposing; for of relief. So say we all of us.
just as they were passing the bands struck At nine o'clock this morning they began up the national hymn, the horses started, and to place soldiers along the route, and the peo- the deputies became a confused mass clinging ple began, as I thought, to assemble. It was to their horses' manes. The owner of a very amusing to see the inhabitants of the houses beautiful yellow silk dressing-gown-all their opposite already settled at their windows to costumes looked like dressing-gowns-kept make a day of it. But though those who came his head and his seat; but I saw the Khan of remained to the end, at no time was there any Khiva's huge black fur hat bobbing up and crowd on the narrow pavement behind the down in a most un-khan-ny way. soldiers; and so respectable a set was it, so The program here announced representaunmixed, that one could not help suspecting tives of the haute noblesse. I did n't see it was very much « arranged,» that every them. I did see sixty footmen, the Emperor's man's name was written on his forehead, to Arabs, and twenty-five chasseurs on foot, all the eye of the police at least. At the side looking very much out of place. Then began streets a cord had been stretched, where, be- a long line of state carriages, containing ing farther off, perhaps the people were not various state dignitaries. These carriages quite so picked; but I have never seen such had each six white horses, and were very swell muzhiks before. Behind the first cord well appointed. Indeed, the number of fine 1 These tablets were removed before the coronation. horses, fine carriages, and fine things alto
gether, and the sumptuousness of all the ar- entry), and those of the little church opposite rangements, were very remarkable, as were us--whose priests, in gold vestments, were the quantities of troops collected in Moscow already gathered on the street and swinging ---an army in themselves. Then came a blaze incense before a little gold altar-were clangof color: the first detachment of the Chevaliers ing so loud that we could scarcely hear ourGardes, in their white uniform, with shining selves speak. Now they seemed to ring louder breastplates and helmets, above which soared than ever; the bands played the Russian hymn the imperial eagle, followed by the Garde à with great fervor, and the murmur of the Cheval on their splendid black horses, their people and of the soldiers swelled into a cheer uniform in every point the same except that as the Czar himself came up to us. of color. To see these troops sweep up toward He had crossed himself reverently before the Kremlin, the light catching their shining the holy images that the priests held toward silver and gold, and their red and yellow him, and now he acknowledged graciously pennons fluttering in the wind, was a mag- the salutations that greeted him. But I connificent sight. Two military men who were fess that he did not look to advantage, for with us were much impressed; and though in his horse was very small for a man of his comatter of detail these men are nowhere near lossal size. Our Duke (of Edinburgh) had a ours at home, yet they thought it remark- place of honor close to his left hand, and able that such numbers should be turned out immediately behind came the Czarevitch on so well, and that the horses, for instance, far a little gray pony; and then a great body urpassed ours.
of grand dukes, ministers, generals, aides-deAll this time the bells over the whole of camp, foreign princes, etc., all in uniform and Moscow were ringing (they almost drowned all on horseback. I caught sight of Lord the noise of the cannon that announced the Wolseley looking very jaunty on a little chest
nut horse that would not walk. He has told me up at us was pale, and I confess I pitied her. since that the saddle was scarcely fastened, The grand duchesses followed, all in white, and his jiggy animal so shook him that the with diamonds and pearls in profusion; one center of one of his Egyptian orders dropped caught the glitter through the glass of their out and was lost. It was a pity that his beautiful red coaches. More troops, the EmMajesty was so closely followed, and by so peror's and Empress's cuirassiers, a third line many people, as, instead of being the promi- of state carriages with the ladies and maids nent figure of the procession, he seemed only of honor, and still more troops, --hussars and to form a part of it. Indeed, there were evi- lancers,- perhaps the prettiest part of the dences of flurry in the whole arrangements, whole thing. These were supposed to close and the ceremony of receiving bread and salt this magnificent entry; but after this we had from the nobles opposite the governor-gen- the benefit of remaining squadrons of the eral's house was dispensed with altogether. different regiments, and, last of all, their
The cheering was very loud for the Em- bands in line. This was effective, since in the press, who now appeared in a carriage that few yards past our house each band struck up was literally one mass of gold, and was drawn its favorite air, and we had a fine potpourri by eight splendid white horses. She was at- of Russian music. Then an official or two tended by the Master of the Horse, by pages, rushed past, looking very important, as if the footmen, and grooms, and the little Grand procession were still to follow; but we were Duchess Xenia sat beside her in the carriage, not to be taken in, nor the people below. I mother and daughter making a very pretty two seconds they had swarmed over the stri picture indeed. Her Majesty was bowing and of sand sacred to the triumphal entry. Where smiling very sweetly, but the face that looked a little before had been the ordered files » of