Puslapio vaizdai
PDF
„ePub“

ade at the appointed time. The kraal was formed from 1625 to 1657. This building, in which the idol

of the trunks of trees, strongly strutted and stayed, extending across a shallow wooded valley, with a tiny rivulet running through it. Across the valley were trees, creepers, and bamboos, growing so thick that the stockade could hardly be seen at a distance of twenty yards. Running from this kraal up the hill-side was a stake-net of wood-work, into which the beaters were to drive the elephants, after they had passed a high rock on which the prince was to take his stand. Lining the stockade were some hundreds of men, all keeping very quiet. The yells of the beaters had been heard long before nine o'clock, when the prince took his appointed place; but hour after hour passed, and no elephant was seen or heard. At half-past one there was a tremendous commotion, and word was passed that the herd of elephants was coming toward the stockade; their trampling could be heard as they crashed through the trees. Then the cries of the beaters receded. The herd had broken through the line, and were making off. There were, in fact, two herds, each led by a valorous old tusker. The second one was driven toward the ambush ; but it, too, broke through the line. Fire was kindled to the windward of the herd, and presently a huge old tusker came crashing past within twenty yards of the prince, who fired and hit the beast fair in the head; but still he made off. One of the suite now came up and said that he had just wounded an elephant, and if his highness would come down, he could give it a finishing shot. Down , he came, and, accompanied by half a dozen of his suite, crept through the dense, hot jungle. They caught sight of the wounded elephant. The prince fired, and the beast dropped. Mr. Hall, who was nearest, began to make a sketch, when the elephant got on his feet, whereupon the artist took to flight. On they crept through the jungle, the noise of invisible elephants being heard close at hand. Suddenly one came charging straight for them. The prince fired at ten yards' range, but apparently missed, for the elephant disappeared in the jungle. In a few moments another was perceived in a spot where the less dense thicket gave a chance for deliberate aim. The prince fired, and the huge beast fell upon its side and toppled into the little stream. They crept up to it and found it dead. The victorious marksman waded into the shallow water, and was boosted up upon the carcass, a most perspiring, ragged, hatless, yet triumphant royal personage. In Ceylon only the male elephant has tusks, and this was not a "tusker;" so that the only trophy was the tail, which the prince cut off, carried away, and, for aught we are told, took home with him to England.

Ceylon was one of the points which the prince had from the outset insisted on visiting. He "did" the island in a week, and then, crossing to the mainland, went by rail to Madras. They made brief stops on the way, notably at Madura, reputed to be "the most charming town in Southern India," and notable for some noble pieces of architecture, among which is the " 'Choultrie," or lodging-place for the idol, built by the Raja Trimal Naik, who reigned

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

| belonging to the great temple close by stops for ten days in the year, "three hundred and three by one hundred and five feet, of iron-gray granite of exceeding hardness, was erected in twenty-two years at the cost of one million pounds. In front of it is a gate-tower the door-posts of which are single blocks of granite sixty feet high, covered with the most beautifully-sculptured foliage. The interior presents a display of four rows of sculptured columns twenty-five feet high, the figures being elaborated with extraordinary richness and abundant fancy." In the great pillared hall are statues of the raja and his six wives, in the side of one of whom is a deep gash. As the story goes, when Trimal Naik had finished the structure, he asked this wife, a princess of Tanjore, whether her father had in his dominions a building at all like to this. "Like this!" she exclaimed, scornfully; "why, the sheds in which he keeps his cattle are finer." Whereupon the incensed raja threw his dagger at her; it struck her in the hip and there remained. But this structure is hardly more than a portico of the great temple of the fish-eyed goddess Minakshee, the wife of Siva. "The temple is a rectangle, with sides of eight hundred and thirty, and seven hundred and thirty feet, covers twenty acres of ground, and has a grand hall with nine hundred and eighty-five sculptured columns surrounded by arcades, with grand gateways, porticoes, mysterious shrines, and monster idols. The shrine of Minakshee, which cost seventy thousand pounds, is surrounded with sculptured columns, and covered with a stone canopy, from the corners of which are chains of three links, carved out of the solid block, hanging from the stone of which they formed part."

The journey from Ceylon to Madras occupied six days. Manifestations of loyalty were abundant enough; but the Indian authorities had evidently a lurking suspicion of treachery, as witness this significant paragraph :

"It is with surprise that one hears of the precautions taken for his security wherever the prince rests, for there is no outward sign of them. As you approach the spot where the royal standard indicates headquarters, you see sentries on duty, perhaps a few native policemen at the corners of the avenues, or in front or rear of the house; but they do their work so unostentatiously that it is only by a close examination of the outposts one can form an idea of the magnitude of the force employed. There are at this moment seven hundred and sixty-two native policemen engaged in guarding the prince's headquarters."

The annual races were going on at Madras, and the prince remained there for nearly a week, and then embarked on the Serapis for Calcutta, the voyage occupying five days. We pass hastily over the fortnight's stay in the "City of Palaces," noting only a few characteristic incidents. There was a constant round of entertainments and receptions. Among the most noted of the native potentates presented was Scindia, the Raja of Gwalior, far up toward the Himalayas, whom we shall meet hereafter. Nothing could be more obsequious than his deportment. He

[ocr errors]
[graphic]

"A salute of nineteen guns was fired, and a closed brougham drove up to the steps. The door opened, and a shawl, supported on a pair of thin legs, appeared. On the top of the shawl there was the semblance of a head, but visible face there was none, for over the head was drawn a silk hood, and from it depended a screen, which completely hid the features. This was the Sultana Jehan, Begum of Bhopal. Her highness is about forty. With her came a daughter, draped and dressed in the same way. They walked very slowly, one after the other, up the steps, taking their time about it, as if they were performing some remarkable feat. The begum was very much at her ease, and chatted very pleasantly with the prince, while her daughter was engaged in conversation with Sir Bartle Frere."

On New Year's evening there was a performance at the theatre, in which, by viceregal command, "the celebrated and world-renowned Charles Mathews, the greatest comedian of the age, and acknowledged as such by the world," appeared in his

own comedy," My Awful Dad." This was announced "the Prince of Wales's state night." The price of upper-tier boxes, holding six, was one thousand rupees; lower-tier boxes, holding five, five hundred rupees; stalls, thirty rupees. "Maharajas, rajas, nawabs, chiefs, and the élite of Calcutta, who may wish to reserve boxes on this interesting occasion, are invited to communicate with the manager, Mrs. English." But, as Mr. Russell pathetically says, "the chiefs who were expected to pay one hundred pounds did not avail themselves as largely of the opportunity as the bénéficiaire expected." Three or four of them were all who put in an appearance. We imagine that the prince would have drawn better in Chicago than he did in Calcutta.

On the 4th of January, 1875, the prince left Cal

cutta for a trip of some fifteen hundred miles through the northeastern provinces up to the very foot of the Himalayas. One object was to have a taste of tiger-hunting in the Terai, a broad tract of jungle, almost uninhabited, which skirts the base of the mountains. The railway runs past cities of historic fame, and through regions overrun by successive hordes of conquerors. We can only touch upon a few of the salient points of this journey.

many bitter memories; and where the fanaticism engendered in holy cities and by famous shrines keeps alive religious antagonism.". . . There was little to note by the way; but Oude is less prosperous, to look at, than it was in 1858. Lucknow has fairly been improved off the face of the earth. Hundreds of acres once occupied by houses have been turned into market-gardens. Swarded parks, vistas, rides, and drives, far prettier than those of the Bois de Boulogne, spread out where once were streets, bazaars, palaces. They are like oceans beneath which thou

thought advisable to have “a guard of the Sixtyfifth Regiment, covered by a body of police, all night around the bungalow where the prince had his quarters; for, although "the people were inclined to be civil, there is not a very cheerful air about them. They admitted that they liked the good old days, and that they did not admire being 'improved off the face of the earth.' Altogether, I doubt if Lucknow is quite friendly, whatever Oude may be." At Lucknow the prince had his first taste, or rather view, of the noble sport of pig-sticking, “in a place where, although the country is rough, the sport could be enjoyed in perfection :

A long night's ride brought them to Patna, the capital of the once famous state of Behar, now a district "given up to opium and indigo." The Lieu-sands of wrecks lie buried." No wonder that it was tenant - Governor of Bengal, Sir Richard Temple, gave them a reception, which evinced that he was "a satrap of no ordinary magnitude and magnificence." He had assembled the generals, officers, and privates, of the vast army under his control, and "considering that there are, it is said, less than one hundred thousand Europeans in India, it was surprising to see what an assembly of ladies, in the most charming bonnets and most correct costumes, were waiting to receive the prince." The avenue to the camp was lined by nearly four hundred elephants, caparisoned with great richness, the howdahs filled with people in gala-dresses. "The great multitude," says Mr. Russell, "Europeans on one side of the way and natives on the other, was loyal and picturesque : the loyalty of the Europeans expressed by cheers, waving of handkerchiefs, playing of bands, and discharges of cannon; the picturesqueness afforded by rajas, nawabs, and natives of inferior dignity." But he adds significantly: "Patna is supposed to contain a good deal of disaffection and of religious fanaticism, which are encouraged by the presence of certain Mohammedan teachers; and it has been found necessary, I believe, to lock up a good many people whose pronounced opinions, or previous history, were of a nature to attract the attention of the authorities."

[ocr errors]

"The prince rode hard; but the English horse has little chance with the boar, as the latter turns like a hare. There were many falls; some had two. The 'pigs' showed great courage, fighting fiercely, charging savagely, and inflicting considerable injuries on the horses. In one run a boar, hard pressed, 'kinked,' and ran under the horse ridden by Lord Carrington, which came down heavily. Lord Carrington's left collar-bone was broken. After luncheon the sport was continued, and many pigs were killed before the day was over."

At Delhi the municipality, "all native gentlemen," presented an address, in which they said that they "esteemed it a privilege to be permitted to give expression to their feelings of profound loyalty and devotion to the person and rule of their gracious queen," and much more in the same strain. “ 'Delhi, in the centre of Hindostan, and where converge many great railway-lines," replied the prince, “must ever be one of the nost important points in our Indian possessions ;" and he was "much gratified in being able to convey to the queen his assurance of the appearance of reviving prosperity in a city so famous and beautiful." But, says Mr. Russell, "to the Englishman, Delhi represents merely the centre of a military system, which from time to time finds here its

The sacred city of Benares is a few hours' ride from Patna. Here, too, the reception was in the military camp outside the city. The municipality presented an address, than which nothing could be more profoundly loyal to the queen and the heirapparent. But here, too, was a skeleton in the closet: "The lamps and lights throughout the camp," says Mr. Russell, "give one the idea of a busy street in a state of high festivity; and when the company are seated in the great tent, which is as brilliant as a London ballroom, and one thinks that a few miles away is a city of hundreds of thousands of people, who would think it a contamination to sit at the well-point of concentration. To us the city has no hisspread table, you understand how wide is the chasm which separates the life of the governing and the governed." And it must be borne in mind that the ruling race are less than a hundred thousand, while the subject race numbers more than two hundred millions.

Another day brought them to Lucknow. "Hitherto," says the narrative, "the prince has visited regions blessed by many years of peace. Now he enters upon the scenes of great troubles, where traditions of the retribution inflicted on rebellion are recent; where confiscations and deposition have left

torical worth except that its name is hallowed by the exploits and by the extraordinary tenacity and efforts of the army, which 'held on to it like bull-dogs,' until the hour of hard-won triumph arrived, and the wretched descendant of the Great Mogul was carried off to a miserable captivity." There was now such a concentration of troops at Delhi, and of these a grand review was held before the prince field-marshal, followed next day by a sham-fight, which was seen by the prince from the back of an elephant. At the review, "the appearance of the force was very fine," and an officer said, exultingly, "That army is able

[ocr errors]
[graphic]

But what security can there be that, in the case of a war-say with Russia-the Sepoy mutiny would not be renewed under more favorable auspices? Delhi and the Ganges may come to have as much to do with the Eastern question as Constantinople and the Bosporus.

THE ALLIES OF THE TIGERS.

[graphic]

"It certainly did strike those accustomed to European armies that the proportion of British officers to native regiments was perilously small. Without at all detracting from the merits and approved excellence of native troops under certain conditions, one could not help feeling that it was dangerous to trust native troops so much to their own officers. As to the native army generally, without disrespect, and in fact with something like admiration, one may say to it, with the bully in the play, who, entering a tavern, put his sword upon the table: Lie there, good blade! God grant that I may have no need of thee!' It was interesting to observe that the 'queen's officers,' as one may call them for the sake of distinction, did not speak of the native regiments at all, while the 'Indian officers' had no eyes but for their own corps. The officers who belonged to the old irregular cavalry are enthusiasts about the qualities of their men and the perfection of their organization, while the queen's officers hold them in very poor estimation."

All this is on the assumption that these native troops would remain faithful to their alien empress.

The Delhi pageant lasted five days. In a couple of days more the canvas city was no more; some of it was packed away in the commissariat stores; the grand tents of the prince were returned to Calcutta; and the regiments were marched back to their several stations. In the mean while the prince and his followers were dispatched by a special night-train to Lahore. Well wrapped in rugs-for the thermometer at night had got into a way of indicating something like the freezing-point-they slept soundly, and as morning broke were near the capital of the short-lived dynasty of the Sikh, close by which Punjaub, to whom a couple of days were given. were the encampments of the martial rajas of the Then farther on, a day's journey, to Jummoo, the capital of the Maharaja of Cashmere, whose shawls

had been so notable at Calcutta a short three weeks before. In the interval he had erected a huge building expressly for the reception of his expected guest, and at enormous cost; but, unluckily, though it was

87249

tiger rolled over, but got up and crawled into a bushy ravine. The prince mounted an elephant and fol

bushes. The prince gave a couple more shots; and when the hunters came up she-for it was a fullgrown female-was dead. Tiger-hunting in earnest, in the thick jungle, is not so easy a matter; and the prince soon afterward had a fair share of it.

'hung with shawls, mirrors, and pictures, the pile was so frail that the walls shook when the salutes were fired, and it was so damp that his royal high-lowed. The beaters scared the tiger out of the ness preferred the tents erected close at hand, between the palace and the city." Two days were quite sufficient for Cashmere; and one of these was devoted to a hunting-excursion, which was not very successful. "" Although his royal highness killed some deer and a pig, the display of native sporting was a failure. A cheetah let loose at a deer ran after a dog; the dog turned, and the cheetah filed. A lynx was slipped at a fox; Reynard showed fight, and the lynx and the fox made up, and were friends." | At evening there was a display of fishing in the river. The nets were hauled in full; but, as afterward appeared, the fish had been put beforehand into the nets, and securely fastened by the gills!

From Jummoo the party returned for a space on the route by which they had come, past by Lahore and Delhi to Agra, famous for the Taj Mahal, that wonderful mausoleum so often described. A few hours' ride, not by rail, from Agra is Gwalior, the residence of the Maharaja Scindia, whom the prince had promised to visit at home. He had some longstanding grievances against the British Government, among which were the seizure and retention of his strong fortress. "There can be no doubt," acknowledges Mr. Russell, "that Lord Canning promised, in 1859, to restore it to him; but the plea of to-day for the non-fulfillment of the pledge is, that Lord Canning did not promise to restore it at once, but made a proviso that the act should be performed at some convenient season. This is dangerous ground to take, especially if there is to be only one judge of the conveniency." But nothing could exceed the apparent cordiality and proud humility of Scindia. One may, however, be allowed to surmise that there was more meant than met the eye in the military parade and the sham-fight which ensued, which evinced how well disciplined were Scindia's men, and how well he could handle them. At parting he said: "It has been much to see your face. It is a grief to me that your visit is so short. I can hardly hope to see your face again; but, be that as it may, some time in England turn a thought to me. My state and everything I have is yours." So said Scindia; but Mr. Russell shrewdly suspects: "If he could have uttered his heart's desire he would probably have said to the prince, 'Tell them to give me back my fortress.''

A week after this, while at the residence of the neighboring ruler of Jeypoor, the prince saw his first tiger, and killed it. The affair was a very commonplace one. It is the custom to put up tall shootingstands along the valleys visited by tigers; and, when it is announced that one is prowling around, the hunters post themselves in these stands while men are sent out to beat the valley. The tiger is likely to pass within shot of one of the stands. News came of a tiger near by. The prince and his attendants mounted the stands; the wood was duly beaten, and before long the tiger came in sight. The prince fired; the tiger trotted along. He fired again; the

The grand hunting-party for the Terai had in the mean while been organized, and established its camp in full sight of the Himalayas. In numbers, equipment, and impedimenta, it was a little army. What with six hundred coolies, sixty tent-pitchers, several hundred mahouts, camel-drivers, and servants, one hundred and twenty soldiers, and a detachment of native camp-police, there were in all fully twenty-five hundred men surrounding the prince and the thirty or forty Europeans who went with him. They had one hundred and nineteen elephants, five hundred and fifty camels, one hundred horses, sixty ox-carts, besides numerous goats, cows, and sheep. The prince and his party reached the camp on the 11th of February. Tigers were the game sought, although when these were not to be had anything but elephants was in order. When elephants are hunted here it is for capture, not for slaughter.

is the king of beasts, and there is no royal road to shoot"In the Indian jungle," says Mr. Russell, "the tiger ing him. Every other creature must be allowed to pass unscathed when he is sought; for to kill a tiger hours of beating and watching and halting must be endured day after day without repining. There is, indeed, the excitement of knowing that at any moment the quiet patch of grass before your eyes may be rent asunder, and its yielding rushes and waving reeds may glow with the fire of that terrible eye, and warm with the rich color of that royal presence. One is told that it is much nobler to descend from the elephant, and go into the jungle on foot, to seek the tiger in his lair; but gentlemen who pursue that sport are generally destroyed. Certainly, whether safe or not, it would not be possible thus to pursue the sport here; for no living man could walk a hundred yards through the astonishing growth of reeds and tangled vegetation. It might be possible to get a tiger by sitting night after night watching on a roost up a tree over a pool of water or the carcass of a dead buffalo; but, in truth, the beasts are not abroad. They are like a needle, not in a bundle, but in a stack of hay."

The way the thing is done—or at least the way the Prince of Wales did it—is in this wise: When a place is found in which there is likely to be a tiger, a number of hunters perched in their howdahs begin trampling through the jungle. The beast usually lies low until the elephant's foot is almost upon him, and then most likely he tries to sneak off; but there is always a chance that he will show fight and make a spring at the elephant. The hunter, perched in his howdah, runs no very great risk; but the mahout, astride of the elephant's neck, is not quite so safe. When a tiger is discovered, a tolerable marksman ought to be able to hit him. But the pleasure of tiger-hunting is not unaccompanied by annoyances, notable among which are the superabundant jungleflies. "Flies!" exclaims Mr. Russell; "there was

« AnkstesnisTęsti »