himself came to Africa for the purpose of subduing this faction.

He landed at Susa, the ancient Hadrumentum, a city much older than Carthage, on the eastern coast of Tunis, about a hundred miles south of the modern city of Tunis.

After the great battle of Thapsus the whole country was converted into Roman provinces. The first three centuries of the Christian era were the most prosperous in the history of North Africa, and it is to this epoch that most of the splendid ruins in Tunis and Algeria belong.

The entire coast from Cherchel, the ancient Cæsarea in Algiers, to Bône, the ancient Hippone, is rich in Roman relics above and below the surface. The grandest monuments of this period, however, are along the northern edge of the Desert of Sahara, about two hundred miles from the coast. This district consists of great plains rising gradually from a low level in the east to an altitude of over three thousand feet in the west at Timgad.

Very little rain falls in some sections of it, while in others enough descends in some

years to afford fair crops. In these more favored places the Romans founded great outposts for their armies, some of which became wealthy cities, flourished for a while, and then disappeared as if by magic and were forgotten for centuries. When the French occupied this section they at once began to explore these ancient strongholds, and although but little real excavation has been accomplished, yet it is possible to gain some idea of these forgotten cities.

The road south from Susa is a fine one, typical of all French highways everywhere, but is little used by the natives, who prefer the old caravan routes which go around the many hills of the district. It was a curious sensation as our automobile started on the journey south, the idea of presuming to enter this ancient country in such a very modern manner. Several villages with unpronounceable names were passed, the natives staring with frightened eyes and open mouths as the red demon coughed its way through the narrow, crooked streets. Quite frequently we begged the chauffeur to go slower for we had no desire to strew our

way with dead or wounded lords of the desert; with a gesture of disgust he acquiesced, simply remarking that they were only Arabs. A little while afterward we came upon a long camel train. The sedate animals took one disdainful glance at our machine and then beat a most undignified retreat up the steep sides of the road, throwing the whole caravan into the wildest disorder. While we were enjoying this comical sight our chauffeur stopped of his own accord, much to our surprise. With a peculiar twinkle in his eye he explained that to injure or kill a camel meant an expense of about two hundred dollars or more, while in the case of an Arab being hurt, the Arab himself might be fined for obstructing traffic. With a very expressive shrug of his shoulders we started on, followed by some sweet Arab sounds that expressed much, although we couldn't speak the language. After passing a few olive groves we entered upon wide open plains, very dreary and monotonous. For about forty miles we bowled along over never-ending hills, very barren from lack of water, yet probably fertile, for in the hol

lows where there was a little moisture beautiful wild flowers seemed to abound. Finally we reached the summit of a hill. higher than the others, from which we obtained a magnificent view toward the desert. Instantly our attention was riveted upon the huge amphitheatre of El Djem, about ten miles distant, looming up as a great bronze tower glittering in the dazzling light of the desert sun. As we drew nearer we began to wonder at its size, position, and the desolate surroundings. The magnificence of the amphitheatre seemed enhanced by the terrible solitude.

Hovering close to the scuth side is a miserable little native village, peopled by descendants of the ancient Berbers, stately and dignified, yet piteously ignorant and fanatical, who stared in amazement at our automobile and then calmly went about their business, but what that was we never could discover. The town is built entirely of stones taken from the amphitheatre, which stands a mute yet powerful expression of the grandeur of the Roman period. The full height of the building can only be conjectured, as the ancient city lies buried