PACKING ROUND THE MINNIPI RAPIDS. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH.)

is undoubtedly of glacial origin, the presence of great numbers of boulders, and the rounded appearance of the hill-summits, pointing to a period of ice-movement. We made a good run up the lake, passing the farthest point reached by Mr. Holme in 1887, and camped on the river-bank three miles above the lake, opposite the mouth of the Elizabeth River, which here enters the Grand from the northwest. The next day we rested in camp; taking occasion to overhaul the boat and canoe and repair clothing and outfit, preparatory to entering the terra incognita which lay before us.

Four days after passing Lake Wanockalow, a wide shallow rapid was encountered, over which it was impossible to drag the boat. Finding no possible channel in the river, we judged we were in the neighborhood of the "Big Hill," the head of canoe navigation, and the point where, in the old days, when the Hudson Bay Company sent crews to their inland post, the Indian voyageurs left the river. From an Indian we had learned that the old trail, long disused, led from this point on the river to a chain of lakes on the table-land. By following these lakes and crossing the intervening "carries," the rapid water which extends for twenty-five miles below the Falls could be avoided, and the traveler be brought finally to the waters of the Grand River many miles above Grand

Falls. Our plan was to follow this old trail for several days, and then to leave the canoe and strike across country in a direction which we hoped would bring us again to the river in the vicinity of the Falls. It was deemed best to follow this circuitous canoe-route rather than to attempt to follow the banks of the river on foot, in which case everything would have to be carried on our backs for many miles through dense forests.

After a long search the old trail was found, and leaving Geoffrey in charge of the main camp on the river, the rest of us took the canoe and a week's provisions, and began the ascent of the steep path which led to the edge of the elevated plateau, which here approaches the river. In three days six lakes and the intervening portages were crossed. Arriving at the sixth lake, which was larger than the others, we turned aside from the dim trail and paddled to its northwestern extremity, where we drew out the canoe and prepared for the tramp toward the river. Arrayed in heavy marching order, and carrying almost all that remained of the provisions, we were soon advancing in a westerly direction. We were now on the tableland of the Labrador interior, and the country we were passing through was of the most desolate character, denuded of trees, the surface covered with caribou-moss, Labrador tea

plants, blueberry-bushes, and thousands of boulders. By keeping to the ridges, fair progress was made; but when compelled to leave the higher ground and skirt the borders of the lakes, dense thickets of alders and willows were encountered, and these greatly impeded our advance. The desolation of this upland landscape is indescribable. No living thing was encountered, and the silence of primordial time reigned supreme. Just before sunset we went into camp on a hillside near a large lake, and soon after, from the top of a high rock, beheld a great column of mist rising like smoke against the western sky. This, we knew, marked the position of the Falls, and, needless to say, our spirits rose-oblivious of our bleak surroundings -as we contemplated the near attainment of our journey's end. During the night the thermometer registered a minimum tempera

of falling waters was borne to our ears with growing distinctness. After what seemed an intolerable length of time,- so great was our eagerness, a space of light in the trees ahead made known the presence of the river. Quickening our steps, we pushed on, and with beating hearts emerged from the forest near the spot where the river plunged into the chasm with a deafening roar.

A single glance showed that we had before us one of the greatest waterfalls in the world. Standing on the rocky brink of the chasm, a wild and tumultuous scene lay before us, a scene possessing elements of sublimity, and with details not to be apprehended in the first moments of wondering contemplation. Far upstream one beheld the surging, fleecy waters and tempestuous billows, dashing high their crests of foam, all forced onward with resistless

RAPIDS ABOVE THE GRAND FALLS. (FROM A PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN 250 FEET ABOVE THE BRINK.)

ture of 410, and we were treated to a superb display of northern lights.

September 2 was a memorable day, as it marked the date of our arrival at Grand Falls. A rough march over the rocks and bogs intervened. As we approached the river, spruce forests of a heavier growth appeared, and pressing on through these, although we could no longer see the overhanging mist, the deep roar VOL. XLIV.-85.

power toward the steep rock whence they took their wild leap into the deep pool below. Turning to the very brink and looking over, we gazed into a world of mists and mighty reverberations. Here the exquisite colors of the rainbow fascinated the eye, and majestic sounds of falling waters continued the pan of the ages. Below and beyond the seething caldron the river appeared, pursuing its turbulent ca

the lack of definition in those photographs, I will add that the afternoon was far advanced and the light far from good. The sun was already well down in the western sky,-across the river from me,—and in the worst possible position for my purpose. I emphasize this feature of the occasion, because it materially affected the result; for had the sun shone from the south instead of the west, I think it would have been quite possible to secure a view giving at least the outline of the Falls.

In front, the great river roaring hoarsely in the gloom, and just entering on its final journey over miles of rapids to the sea. On the opposite bank, a splendid cliff of pinkish hue led the eye from the gloomy base, in one long sweep of hundreds of feet aloft, to the utmost pinnacle, which still glowed a few brief moments in the departing rays of the sun. Darkness had settled over all when I clambered over the edge above and made my way through the forest to the camp, just above the Falls. My long absence had alarmed my companions, In my descent to the bottom of the cañon I who welcomed my appearance within the cir- carried my camera, but I was unable to obtain cle of the camp-fire with expressions of relief. a view of the fall from the lower bed of the It was after nine o'clock when I sat down to river, because a projecting point of rock several a frugal supper that night, somewhat foot-sore hundred yards up-stream cut off a distant view and weary after the stirring events of the day. of the spectacle. The steep walls of the gorge, The difficulties of obtaining near views of against which the water dashed in places, prelarge masses of falling water are admitted by all vented any considerable advance up-stream, photographers. In the case of the Grand Falls, and I was reluctantly compelled to abandon these were increased by the character of the my purpose of returning the following morning surroundings. The great volume of water, com- to secure photographs of the Falls from this pressed as it is, and discharging itself through a lower position. funnel-like channel in the rocks, falls in a thick, narrow column a distance of 316 feet, sending up banks of vapor and presenting the appearance from a distance of a great pillar of cloud. The vegetation is affected by this vapory condition of the atmosphere, and thin patches of green moss, unlike anything seen elsewhere, were conspicuous on the face of the cliffs just below the Falls. Notwithstanding the apparent futility of the attempt, I endeavored to obtain two views looking across the main leap, from the bank near the brink. These negatives proved to be failures on development. By descending the bank as far as the steep incline permitted, and hanging to the roots of the dwarf fir-trees growing thereabout, I was able, by watching for a favorable moment when the veil of mist lightened, to secure a near view of part of the main leap. It was apparent that the best vantage-ground for viewing the face of the fall was from a point where the cañon wall jutted out a short distance into the deep pool below the Falls. This point of view I estimated was from 140 to 160 feet from the column of descending water, and down its rocky edge one could not creep more than fifteen feet before encountering an almost vertical wall which led to the river-bed below. While the rising vapor did not envelop us here as when nearer the brink, yet the effect of it, rising in banks from the base, while not unpleasing to the eye, detracted somewhat from the fine sweep of the fall, the outline of which we could see descending behind the veil of mist. While on this rocky buttress, I took a photograph of the Falls, and one of the lower part of the Falls, showing the mist rising from the bottom, both of which proved to be almost total failures. To explain further

I felt at the time that while the views of the rapids and cañon promised well, those of the Falls could not be otherwise than unsatisfactory. I consoled myself, however, by the thought that the light of the following morning would prove more propitious. Great was my disappointment, then, when September 3 dawned a dull and threatening day. Friends have naïvely remarked, when I expressed my regret at not obtaining a good view of the main fall, “Why did you not remain encamped at the Falls until you had secured satisfactory photographs of this most important object?" Our provisions were all but exhausted, only enough remaining after breakfast for two scant meals. To have remained under the circumstances seemed to risk starvation, for owing to the absence of all game from the vicinity there appeared to be no means of eking out our supplies by the usual devices of the woodsman. Thus I decided to delay no longer for clear weather; and the twodays' storm which supervened proved, I think, my wisdom in declining to take the risk.

The deep incessant roar of the cataract that night was our lullaby as, stretched out under a rough "barricade," we glided into that realm of forgetfulness where even surroundings strange as ours counted as naught. By the morning light we again viewed the wonders of the place, and sought for some sign of the presence of bird or animal in the vicinity; but not a track, or the glint of a bird's wing, rewarded our quest, and this avoidance of the place by the wild creatures of the forest seemed to add a new element of severity to the eternal loneliness of the spot.

The Grand Falls of Labrador are nearly twice as high as Niagara, and are inferior to