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a glad farewell to that frowning peak, plunging joyfully into the yielding lava of the downward path. From that unique summit the kingdoms of the earth and their glory lay spread out to the gaze, but too far, too foreign, too remote, for companionship or sympathy. Grandeur and majesty, with desolation and loneliness unspeakable, form the crown of Fuji-san. After descending two or three thousand feet, headaches disappeared suddenly, our heartbe its ceased their abnormal rush, and the heavinessmevery motion turned into a renewed delight in life. On we plunged through the soft lava, aided by our long sticks, and with fresh patts of straw sandals over our boots every ten O fifteen minutes. The mist was very thick; the coolica in front and those behind became inveable, the dull thud of their approaching footpo was a positive relief from the sensation dend bolation, and even more so their dim hokon dowly growing into recognizable fig

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The enthusiasm of delight in reaching tation at best can never be forgotten. The hati, fuck white and pink flowers which folthe cunde is far up the height were welan advance guard of joy; we could ally preby the oases of verdure with their Add strawberries, and when we reached it was like a region enchanted. It

emerged from the cloud, and its last traces floated calmly off above us, leaving a wide and sunny landscape, which even the volcanic soil could not render dreary. But long before we reached Subashiri the great triangular shadow of Fuji began to spread over the hills and fields. Growing larger and more portentous with every moment, it swept irresistibly onward, until we too became enshrouded in its veil, and as we rode along the one street to the Yona-yama, night was already come.

Once more in the same little rooms as before, with the hibachi full of red-hot coals set near, and the chicken and rice well under way for dinner, life had few unsatisfied desires. Warmth, comfort, ease of breathing, had acquired a new significance.

When, many days after this climb and descent, we steamed slowly at evening out of the beautiful bay of Yokohama, Fuji graciously vouchsafed a glorious parting glimpse of his majesty. Deep purple against a yellow sky, his regular, matchless cone rose solitary and superb over a foreground of coast-bluffs, and water rippling with sunset fire. Insensible, calm, unmoved by homage or effort, he lives his vast, pulseless life-the mighty landmark of all Japan.

Mabel Loomis Todd. David P. Todd.

Τ

SEA-LONGINGS.

HE first world-sound that fell upon my ear
Was that of the great winds along the coast
Crushing the deep-sea beryl on the rocks-
The distant breakers' sullen cannonade.
Against the spires and gables of the town
The white fog drifted, catching here and there

At over-leaning cornice or peaked roof,

And hung-weird gonfalons. The garden walks
Were choked with leaves, and on their ragged biers
Lay dead the sweets of summer-damask rose,
Clove-pink, old-fashioned, loved New England flowers.
Only keen salt sea-odors filled the air.

Sea-sounds, sea-odors, these were all my world.
Hence is it that life languishes with me
Inland; the valleys stifle me with gloom
And pent-up prospect; in their narrow bound
Imagination flutters futile wings.

Vainly I seek the sloping pearl-white sands
And the mirage's phantom citadels
Miraculous, a moment seen, then gone,
Bastion and turret crumbled into air!
Among the mountains I am ill at ease,
Missing the stretched horizon's level line.
And the illimitable restless blue.

The crag-torn sky is not the sky I love,
But one unbroken sapphire spanning all;
And nobler than the branches of a pine
Aslant upon a precipice's edge

Are the strained spars of some great battle-ship
Plowing across the sunset. No bird's lilt
So takes me as the whistling of the gale
Among the shrouds. My cradle-song was this,
Strange, inarticulate sorrows of the sea,

Blithe rhythms upgathered from the sirens' caves.
So have I coastwise longings evermore.

May the last sound that lingers on my sense-
Save that of one low voice which not to hear
Were death itself-be some sea-message blown
Over the dim salt-marshes on the winds

At dusk, or when the red autumnal dawn
Turns all the pools and willow-stems to gold.

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W

I.

LA CHASSE-GALERIE.1

By the Author of "Le Vieux Montréal," etc., etc.

WITH PICTURES BY HENRI JULIEN.

ELL, then, since you seem to desire it so very much, I will tell you a roarin' story that ought to be a lesson to all of you. If there is among the crowd any renegade who intends to run la chasse-galerie or the loup-garou, he had better skip and go outside to see whether the owls are screeching in the storm, in converse with Old Nick himself, because I intend to begin my story by making a big sign of the cross. That will be a regular set-back to le diable, who always tries, at this time, to snatch a poor shantyman's soul by promising him all kinds of nonsense. I have had enough of that in my young days to understand his tricks."

Not a man moved. On the contrary, all gathered closer round the fireplace, where the cook had dragged the provision-chest, and upon which he had taken his seat on a camp-stool, preparatory to relating his experience under the wiles of the mauvais esprit.

It was on New Year's eve of the year 1858, in the depth of the forest, in the Ross timber camp, at the head of the Gatineau River. The winter had fairly set in, and the snow outside had already piled up to the roof of the shanty. The boss, according to custom, had ordered the distribution of the contents of a small barrel of Jamaica rum among the men, and the cook had terminated early his preparations of a succulent ragout of pigs' feet and of a large tin full of glissantes for the New Year's dinner. A big kettle, half full of molasses, was already simmering on the fire, as there was to be a candypull to finish the evening's entertainment.

Every man had filled his pipe with good, strong Canadian tobacco, and a thick cloud of smoke darkened the interior of the shanty. A few pine-branches thrown at intervals on the fire produced a reddish glare that illuminated

1 This narrative is founded on a popular superstition dating back to the days of the coureurs des bois, under the French régime, and perpetuated among the voyageurs in the Canadian Northwest. The shantymen of a later date have taken up the tradition, and it is in the French settlements, bordering the St. Lawrence River, that the legends of la chasse-galerie are specially well known at the present time. The writer has met many an old voyageur who affirmed most posiVOL. XLIV.-65.

the rude faces of the men with curious effects of clair-obscur.

Joe, the cook, was a homely little man who laughed at his own physical defects, and who did not take offense when his comrades chaffed him on the subject, and called him le bossu, the hunchback. He had worked in the shanties for the last forty years, and his experience was only equaled by the facility with which he could relate his adventures when he had taken a glass of bonne vieille Jamaïque.

"I was telling you," said Joe, "that I was a pendard in my youth, but it is long since I mended my ways, and now I never joke about religious matters. I go to confession regularly every year, and what I am about to relate took place years and years ago, when I feared ni Dieu, ni diable. It was on a night like this, a New Year's eve, thirty-four or thirty-five years ago. Gathered round the fireplace with all the camarades, we made merry; and if it is true, as we say in French, that small rivulets make large rivers,' it is just as true that small drinks. empty large barrels. And in those days, people drank more than to-day, and evenings of this kind generally ended in a boxing-match, outside, in the snow. The rhum was no better than it is to-night, but it was bougrement bon, I can assure you. I will be frank with you and tell you that about eleven o'clock my head began to feel dizzy, and I lay down on my buffalo-robe to take a nap, while waiting for the midnight jump that we always take over the head of a pork-barrel, from the old year into the new one. We will repeat the same thing to-night before we go to visit the neighboring camps to wish them the compliments of the

season.

II.

"I HAD slept for quite a while, when I was rudely awakened by a second boss, Baptiste Durand, who said to me: 'Joe, it is past midtively that he had seen bark canoes traveling in midair, full of men paddling and singing away, under the protection of Beelzebub, on their way from the timber camps of the Ottawa to pay a flying visit to their sweethearts at home.

It is hardly necessary to apologize for having used in the narrative expressions typical of the rude life and character of the men whose language and superstition it is the intention of the writer to portray.

497

night, and you are late for the barrel-jump. The camarades have gone to the other camps, and I am going to Lavaltrie to see my sweetheart. Will you come with me?'

"To Lavaltrie,' said I, ' are you crazy? We are three hundred miles away from there, and you could not travel the distance in two months, through the forest, when there are no roads beaten in the snow. And what about our work the day after to-morrow?'

"Imbécile! don't you understand me? We will travel in our bark canoe, and to-morrow morning at six o'clock we will be back here for breakfast.'

"I understood. Baptiste Durand proposed that I should join him and run la chassegalerie; risk the salvation of my soul for the fun of going to give a New Year's kiss to my blonde at Lavaltrie. That was a little too much for me. It was true that I was a mauvais sujet, that I did not practise la religion, and that I took a drink too much now and then; but between that and the fact of selling my soul to le diable there was a big difference, and I said: 'No, siree! Pas un tonnerre !'

666

6

'Oh, you are a regular old woman,' answered Baptiste tauntingly. There is no danger whatever. We can go to Lavaltrie and back in six hours. Don't you know that with la chasse-galerie we can travel 150 miles an hour, when one can handle the paddles as well as we all do. All there is to it is that we must not pronounce le nom du bon Dieu during the voyage, and that we must be careful not to touch the crosses on the steeples when we travel. That 's easy enough, and, to be all right, all a man has to do is to look where he goes, think about what he says, and not touch a drop of liquor on the way. I have made the trip five times, and le diable has not got me yet. Come, mon vieux, stiffen up your courage, and in two hours we will be at Lavaltrie. Think of Liza Guimbette, and the pleasure you will have in kissing her a happy New Year." There are already seven of us to make the trip, but we must be two, four, six, or eight, to make up the crew of the canoe.'

"Yes, that's all right, but you must make an engagement with le diable, and he is not the kind of a bourgeois that I want to make any bargain with.'

"A simple formality if we are careful where we go and not to drink. A man is not a child, pardieu! Come on! The camarades are waiting outside, and the canoe is already in the clearing. Come, come!'

"And I was led outside of the shanty, where I saw the six men who were awaiting us, paddle in hand. The large canoe was lying on a snowbank, and before I had time to think twice about it, I was seated in the bow, awaiting the

signal to go. I must say that my mind was somewhat confused, but Baptiste Durand, who was a hard customer,-for, it was said, he had not been to confession for seven years,-gave me no time for reflection. He was standing in the stern, and exclaimed in a ringing voice: "Are you ready?' "Ready.'

"Repeat after me.'

"And we repeated together:

"Satan! king of the infernal regions, we promise to sell you our souls, if within the following six hours we pronounce le nom du bon Dieu, your master and ours, or if we touch a cross on the voyage. On that condition you will transport us through the air, wherever we may want to go, and bring us back sound and safe to the shanty. Acabris, Acabras, Acabram! Fais nous voyager par-dessus les montagnes!'

III.

"THE last words were hardly pronounced, when we felt the canoe rising in the air to a height of five or six hundred feet. I felt as light as a feather, and at Baptiste's command, we commenced paddling like sorcerers that we were. At the first stroke of the paddle the canoe shot out like an arrow, and off we went under the protecting wing of le diable himself. It fairly took my breath away, and I could hear the bow of the canoe whizzing through the crisp air of the night.

"We went faster than the wind, and during the first fifteen minutes we sailed over the forest, without perceiving anything else than the dark heads of the great pines. It was a beautiful night, and a full moon lighted up the sky like the midday sun. It was terribly cold though, and our mustaches were fairly frozen, while our bodies were all in a perspiration. We were paddling like demons at work in the lower regions. We soon perceived a bright, glistening belt of clear ice, that shone like a mirror. That was the Gatineau River; and then the lights in the farm-houses, which were mostly lit up on New Year's eve. We began passing the tincovered steeples as quickly as telegraph-poles fly past in a railway-train, and the spires shone in the air like the bayonets of the soldiers drilling on the Champ de Mars, in Montréal. On we went like tous les diables, passing over forests, rivers, towns, villages, and leaving behind us a trail of sparks. It was Baptiste Durand, the possédé, who steered the canoe because he knew the route, and we soon came to the Ottawa River, which we followed down to the Lac des Deux Montagnes !

"Look out there,' said Baptiste; 'we will just skim over Montréal and frighten some of the fellows who may be out at this hour of the

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