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road at the entrance to a narrow gorge the better. At the end is Lundi Kotal, our the precipitous walls of which rise about a destination, and the camp of the Khyber thousand feet on each side. Far up on the forces. In shape it is like a great amphirocks to the left of the gorge stands the theater. The military camp occupies the fort of Ali-Musjid, the history of which is arena, and the steep slopes at the back are written in the blood of Hindu, Buddhist, studded with native fighting-towers, which Mussulman, and Christian. The military resemble somewhat a lot of factory-chimroad is here cut out of the rock; the cara- neys. They are strongly built of stone vans take the stony bed of the valley, and and clay, and each is inclosed by a high usually pass each other at this point, for rectangular wall built of the same mathey always go through the pass from the terial. They are in reality feudal castles, north and south on the same day, as noth- inside of which the people live. One never ing outside of a block-house or fort is safe sees a house or a hut anywhere in the pass, when once the curtain of night falls. but only these grim-walled towers, and no

After going through this one narrow sign of inhabitants. All are as still as the neck, the pass widens out into a long, rocks that surround them, and occasionally bleak valley, which is the part of the pass a partly demolished tower tells its own that is called the Khyber. The hills on silent story-as does a quiet corner in the both sides are high and jagged, heavy with cold shadow of the mountain walls of shadows, and as still as the grave. You this amphitheater not far from the empty need no one to tell you that this is not a camp, where the little white-marble stones spot in which to loiter; you instinctively and crosses each bears its simple inscripfeel that the sooner you get to the end of it tion.

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From a photograph of the painting by R. D. Mackenzie. By permission of Raphael Tuck & Sons Co., L't'd.

HJf-tone plate engraved by R. Varley

AFGHANS ON THE MARCH

CALM

BY EMMA GHENT CURTIS

RINK slowly; sip life's varied cup,

And taste it as you go.
The daintiest half of all they sup

The hasty never know.

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SMALL BRASS CANNON, BRASS CHOW-BOWLS, AND BRASS BUYO-BOXES

OF MORO WORKMANSHIP

A COUNTRY FAIR IN MOROLAND

BY CAPTAIN CHARLES T. BOYD

Tenth Cavalry, United States Army, lately Governor of Cotabato District

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the district capital, at which all the head- they chose. men, datos and chiefs, not then warring, Five weeks' notice was little to give were invited to appear.

them, but it was necessary to have the This year, the merchants and citizens fair over before the big Mohammedan of Cotabato decided to have a Moro fair month-long feast, at which time all good and fiesta at the time of the junta. The Moros fast during the day and eat and citizens were mostly Filipinos, the mer- howl all night. chants mostly Chinese. At the meeting As Cotabato District is about equal in for organizing the fair, the Filipinos and area to that of the States of Delaware and the two Spaniards did most of the talking. New Hampshire taken together, Sherif The Chinese, being asked their opinion, Afdal's offer of the use of his Moro mescalled for the subscription-list and put sengers was accepted; and because he was down their names, the captain Chinaman, a person of great influence among the old Celestino, heading the list with fifty Moros, he was urged to make known genpesos. Then a central committee was ap- erally throughout the district the advanpointed, made of the American governor, tages to be obtained from attendance at the Moro presidente, a Spanish merchant, the fair. The sherif was the only one a Filipino justice of the peace, and the who had seen a fair. While a soldier of captain Chinaman. From this resulted Lord Roberts of Kandahar, he had atthe “First Moro Agricultural and Indus- tended fairs in India, which were in some trial Fair."

ways not unlike the one we now planned Loyola, my Moro interpreter, and the for the Moros. Afghan, Sherif Afdal, the high priest, The first to reply to our invitations was wrote to all the datos to bring in samples Dato Kali Pandapatan, the fighting priest of the best of their handiwork, of the best and chief of the Buldoon Plateau. He of their produce, and of the best of the informed me that he would come if he was forest products. It was explained that not sick. Others did likewise, and it bethese samples were not asked for as a con- gan to appear that the fair idea was fatribution, as was customary with them, vorably received on all sides.

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DATO PIANG IN HIS BARGE OF STATE, PROPELLED BY SEVENTY ROWERS

When the time for the fair approached, liar workmanship, handsome creeses, camKali Pandapatan, with thirty followers, pilans, and barbaric toilet-articles. Dato was also the first to arrive. In fact, he Dra, Mastura's son, exhibited his own was several days too early. The exhibit creese, the handle of which is a remarkably he brought consisted of samples of the large tooth of a crocodile. numerous cereals raised on his plateau, Dato Bakee's exhibit was much like put up in little bamboo phials. The fight- Mastura's, but he also displayed fancying-cocks he started with he lost en route. colored sarongs, interwoven with silk, But he exhibited his own double-edged beautifully embroidered table-covers and dragon creese, with the blade inlaid with handkerchiefs, very pretty rattan mats, and silver, and his old and highly prized fili- the golden ear-rings of fine native workgree buyo-box. In addition, his women, manship which had belonged to his grandwhom he committed to my care and pro- mother. Bakee has his own brass foundry, tection, sent some burnt work of bamboo, and from his waxen molds come much of one piece being a little stick, with one end the brass ware that is sold in Cotabato; split into many parts, to use over a baby's but the brass that he exhibited was old and finger in order to protect the nail that it antique. He would not exhibit what he might grow long.

made to sell, nor sell what he had to exDato Mastura, Pandapatan's tradi- hibit. tional enemy, next sent in his exhibit. He Then down came old Piang in his barge had the collection of the princessa (now of state, propelled by seventy rowers. the Sultana of Maguindanao) to draw on, From the mast he flew his own peculiar and so was able to make a splendid exhibit, flag, yellow, red, and purple, while decowhich consisted of big, old bronze vases rations of all kinds covered the bamboo inlaid with silver, brazen urns, and large sides and nipa roof of the huge craft. As trays and jars of engraved, inlaid and beaten he approached, his native cannon work, graceful chow-dishes, silver and cop- fired as a salute, and one of his men was per buyo-boxes of antique design, bracelets badly burned and fell into the water. A of gold and silver, of great age and pecu- rowing clown at the bow, with humorous antics, set the time for the rowers, first a bananas, native fruits, beeswax, rosin, oil long stroke, then three short, quick ones, nuts (biau) for lighting, soap-bark, colthe small paddles splashing the water high ored mats and baskets, bijuca hammocks, in the joy of the motion. A little Bilan bead belts and baskets, bows and arrows drummer, in scarlet, and a dancing fool and spears decorated in colors with burnt kept time with the tom-toms of the women. work, canes, stools, chairs, and tables of

Dato Piang brought a large exhibit, but, hardwood and of fair workmanship. under pretense of modesty, he hesitated to So numerous were the different exhibits outshow the others. He is half-Chinese, that space in the District Building, where very wealthy, and very crafty. Not to be they were displayed, was at a premium. outdone in anything, he subscribed one And as the fair progressed, more datos hundred pesos to the fair. He brought a with more produce kept arriving. In fact, pony, game-cocks, poultry, iguanas, and Moros and Monobos were still coming to crocodiles. With him he had forty different the fair a week after it was over. kinds of cooked food, which he chose not The exhibits were finally arranged by to exhibit. He brought tobacco, tree cot- tribal wards, and the people were admitton, rice, poisonous roots, much brass ware, ted. With their datos, they were encourhunting-knives with deerhorn handles, aged to make comparisons between their daggers with gold and silver handles and own exhibits and those from other parts inlaid blades, working-knives, creeses, and of the district in order to incite competicampilans. One creese had a handle inlaid tion and increase production. with American five- and ten-dollar gold Attention was also directed to samples pieces. Piang also brought many pieces of our own agricultural implements, the of crude pottery, the product of his own uses of which were demonstrated on every factory.

fair-day. Dato Kali Adam, the wise and good, Later, at the close of the fair, prizes was able to make only a small exhibit, be- were awarded by a mixed committee, cause, as he stated, his people would not American, Spanish, Filipino, Moro, and work. He could not even get them up at Chinese, the Tirurays securing eleven sunrise to pray, though they would get up prizes, Piang seven, Bakee three, Kali at any hour to gamble. He asked me to Pandapatan two, Mastura two, Balabaorder them to pray, and to give him the dan two, Manguda sa Talayan two, Mopower to send them away if they did not puk one, and Enrique one. obey. One of Kali Adam's exhibits was Dato Dra had brought in Moros from a valued chow-dish. It was made from his father's ward, and with branches of the bowl of an ordinary American nickled palm-trees had decorated the streets. The lamp, with the top cut away to receive a water-front now became a line of flutterflat cover.

ing bunting, for all the river datos had Rajah Muda Mopuk and Dato Ampa- come down in barges brightly decorated tuan, Ali's war chief, brought in only for the occasion. Dato Balabadan, with the products of their forests.

three of his ten wives, was here, as was Of the pagan tribes, the Monobos ex- Rajah Muda Asad, who was about to lead hibited nothing but their own weaving of a party on the long pilgrimage to Mecca. coarse hemp cloth, decorated with bead- All the country-side turned out, and the work. The Bilan tribe was too wild to interior as well. do more than send a few representatives. The streets of Cotabato became a mass When one of these had seen and felt ice, of surging, half-naked brown men and he asked me to give him a small piece to women wearing bright, barbaric colors. take back with him to show to his people Spears and creeses were everywhere in eviin the mountains. The Tudugs did not dence, though the constabulary, themselves come at all.

Moros, had induced the majority of the The Tiruray tribe, under their mestizo people to leave their weapons in their headman, came in with a large exhibit boats. which would have been a credit to any fair Each headman, moving about the town, at home. They brought hemp, rubber, was followed by such a concourse of peosugar-cane, tobacco, corn, melons, lemons, ple that they blocked the streets. Whersweet potatoes, onions, squash, peanuts, ever Adriano Acosta went, three hundred wild Tirurays, of whom twenty were and fifty of his people and his relative, the timuays (chiefs), followed, and they so Sultan of Maguindanao, with the yellow crowded into the presidente's new house umbrella. Mantauiel from away up the that they threw it out of plumb.

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MORO GIRLS OF THE PRINCESSA'S HOUSEHOLD POSING TO THE

BEATING OF TOM-TOMS

river, Ynuk from the swamp lake, DilanWith Sultan Telekoko were three hun- galan and Djimbangan, Sansaluna and dred Moros from Bagumbayan. With Kulee, the pagans Cinkala and Sambulao, Dato Bakee came two hundred Moros each, with his separate following, joined from Kalaganan. Other chiefs had fol- the crowd. Such numbers elbowed in that lowers in proportion.

the program had to be suspended until the Along with their timuays came the Tir- constabulary beat the crowd back. In the uray dancing-girls, their ears pierced from meantime the Philippine Scout Band had lobe to tip. Men, women, and little girls started playing in another place, and the danced together to the sounds of a stringed music called the crowd away. bamboo instrument. These sounds, united Early during the fair the captain Chinawith those of the numerous brass bracelets man, old Celestino, came to ask that the and anklets, as the bare heels stamped the rules against gambling be suspended, as ground, made pleasant music. The danc- the Chinamen wanted to enjoy a little ers circled about, one following the other, diversion in celebration of the occasion. whirling as they went, the girls keeping This was not allowed, but it later aptime most modestly with graceful gestures peared that some gambling did occur. I of their arms, hands, and heads.

had tried several times in vain to buy a Into the midst of this rode old Piang on huge urn from Mastura's exhibit, but on a prancing pony decorated with plumes the morning after the last night of the and jingling sleigh-bells. Dancing in front fair Dato Dra brought it to me. He was of him came his fiercely helmeted clown, haggard and worn. An all-night contest beating a snare-drum, and the little red- was written on his face. He needed clad Bilan, beating a tom-tom, making money. At last he confessed that the music with his steps. Accompanying Chinamen had had their diversion at his Piang were four hundred of his Moros, expense. good-naturedly pushing into the crowd. As the fair progressed, the agricultural

Then came Mastura with four hundred implements attracted increasing interest,

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