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grown, and so rich as to have ever since this point a traveler's permit is taken; he been the coveted treasury of the world. receives in exchange an officially stamped And its bleak, rugged, gray, sinuous rocks receipt, and he is expected to get back out are suggestive of the use it has served -a of the pass by five o'clock in the evening. gateway to the strong and a trap to the It is a thirty-mile drive in a tonga to weak.

Lundi Kotal, which is within five miles of The cold shadows of its arid walls of Lundi Khana, the Afghan boundary. Perrock in winter, its burning, shadowless mission to visit the pass is usually given heat in summer, and the lurking, silent only on the two days in the week when watchers on every side, undistinguishable caravans are going through, and special from the broken, gray, lumpy rocks, inten- precautions are taken for the safety of sify the weird silence, which is ominous, a travelers. veritable "valley of the shadow of death.' It is interesting to see the great caravan

The approach to the pass is across a serai opposite Fort Jumrood, with the great fat, stony plain for a distance of confused mass of merchandise; the great, about three miles from the border city of brown, shaggy Persian camels spluttering Peshawar. The hills that inclose the and gurgling in spiteful protest; and their pass form a rugged, gray wall-a wall burly, travel-stained drivers in turbans in that grows in length and height across the all stages of disarray coiled about their north of India until it culminates in the black, oily locks of hair and tumbling over perpetual snow of the greatest mountains their bronzed, bearded faces. They are of the world.

clad in the loose, baggy Afghan shirts and About a mile from the entrance to the trousers, and wear sheepskin coats. Everypass is Fort Jumrood, which sits on the body is preparing for departure, packing, plain in shape and appearance not unlike cooking, eating, or smoking. Each and a modern heavy-armored battle-ship. At every man apparently is having a row with

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himself or his neighbor and yelling in all seemed to think the run a : the dialects of Asia. It is a picture of frolic. They were changed commerce that carries with it romance and ten miles, and although the adventure.

road rose occasionally where The little tonga in which our journey been made to save distance

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was made went clanking along, the horses rocky bed of the pass, it was trotting or galloping all the time, which is driving. the way that these comfortless but service- After passing through th able little chariots are always driven. We hills, the road went winding had to do our sixty miles in ten hours, in- and cuttings, suddenly com cluding a two-hours' rest at Lundi Kotal; or less open spaces. At ever but as there was no luggage, we jolted angle of the road one obse along at a brisk pace through the keen, "block-houses" standing se exhilarating mountain air, and the ponies sky-line, and half-way bet

a

trance to the pass and Ali-Musjid one for repairing the road. Far off in the stopped to marvel at an old Buddhist tope distance rose a tiny little column of dust, on the right of the road, where its great and as it approached, I got out of my dome rises from a rectangular foundation tonga, withdrew from the road, and took built into the irregularities of the hilltop up a position on a boulder a short distance to supply the necessary base for its gigantic away, where I could see to better advanproportions. There it rises a sort of tage. It was the column of British troops superimposed hill, black and hoary with withdrawing from the pass after twothe passage of centuries. One could have years' occupation. I came specially to no conception of its huge proportions were witness this, and it was a sight upon which it not for the fort that is built on the top I was later able to reflect when I reached of the dome. It looks like a toy castle, Lundi Kotal and saw their deserted camp bearing about the same relation to the and its bleak surroundings. dome that a chimney does to a house, or, The column was composed of British more correctly, a house to a hill.

officers and soldiers and "Ghurkas," the One might well

sturdy little men from pause to reflect on the

the mountains of Nepresence of such

pal, who are the best monument in such an

hill-fighters of the environment. The

Indian army. They mental shock is about

come the nearest to as great as if one sud

being real companions denly gazed upon one

for "Tommy Atkins" of the great pyramids

of all the Sepoys of of Egypt rising out of

India; for they are a the Strand or out of

jolly lot of little men, Broadway. There it

who can and do enjoy is, as permanent as

and share the grog the hill upon which it

and pipe and sports of is built, a monument

Tommy, as if to the to a great religious

manner born, and deconviction older than

light to call themChristianity. It is

selves the "Royal impossible to grasp its

Irish” or the “42d full meaning, for the

Highlanders" or any mists of ages hide its

name that happens to builders from

be conspicuously to gaze.

the front at the moThe hills grow heavier and higher as ment. They filed by in irregular marching one approaches Ali-Musjid, and here and order, a form which relaxes the mere milithere we passed a solitary figure muffled tary machine, and reveals the man, who alup to his chin in a blanket. One wondered though more or less incumbered with arms for a moment what he had to do, but it and military accoutrements, is not burwas only for a moment; for a searching dened with restraint as to the set of his glance from his keen, dark eyes, and helmet or his buttons and buckles. They about two inches of Martini-Henry just must have felt like men getting out of peeping out of the blanket in front of his prison, and even the poor fellows in the nose, made inquiry superfluous. Further hospital palanquins, who were carried observation proved that he was not so soli- along in the rear of the dusty column, tary as he looked, as several of the lumpy, must have felt grateful for every jolt that gray rocks on the hillside slowly changed took them on and out of that cage of positions, and one stood up. They were rocks. some of the tribal levies whose duty it is They were soon lost in a cloud of dust, to guard certain portions of the pass.

. and we continued on our way, and shortly The road widens out here, and we saw came to a halt in front of a tiny, whitesome slight evidence of life in men driving washed shrine or mosque, the famous a dozen or so donkeys laden with stones “Ali-Musjid." It sits on the side of the

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Drawn by R. D. Mackenzie

A GHILZAI

our

LXXXII-83

road at the entrance to a narrow gorge the better. At the end is Lundi the precipitous walls of which rise about a destination, and the camp of thousand feet on each side. Far up on the forces. In shape it is like a g rocks to the left of the gorge stands the theater. The military camp fort of Ali-Musjid, the history of which is arena, and the steep slopes at t written in the blood of Hindu, Buddhist, studded with native fighting-to Mussulman, and Christian. The military resemble somewhat a lot of fá road is here cut out of the rock; the cara- neys. They are strongly bu vans take the stony bed of the valley, and and clay, and each is incloser usually pass each other at this point, for rectangular wall built of th they always go through the pass from the terial. They are in reality fe north and south on the same day, as noth- inside of which the people live. ing outside of a block-house or fort is safe sees a house or a hut anywhere when once the curtain of night falls. but only these grim-walled tov

After going through this one narrow sign of inhabitants. All are a neck, the pass widens out into a long, rocks that surround them, and bleak valley, which is the part of the pass a partly demolished tower to that is called the Khyber. The hills on silent story-as does a quiet c both sides are high and jagged, heavy with cold shadow of the mounta shadows, and as still as the grave. You this amphitheater not far from need no one to tell you that this is not a camp, where the little white-n spot in which to loiter; you instinctively and crosses each bears its sin feel that the sooner you get to the end of it tion.

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From a photograph of the painting by R. D. Mackenzie. By permission of Raphael Tuck & Sous Co., I

Hal-tone plate engraved by R. Varley

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SMALL BRASS CANNON, BRASS CHOW-BOWLS, AND BRASS BUYO-BOXES

OF MORO WORKMANSHIP

A COUNTRY FAIR IN MOROLAND

BY CAPTAIN CHARLES T. BOYD

Tenth Cavalry, United States Army, lately Governor of Cotabato District

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the district capital, at which all the head- they chose. men, datos and chiefs, not then warring, Five weeks' notice was little to give were invited to appear.

them, but it was necessary to have the This year, the merchants and citizens fair over before the big Mohammedan of Cotabato decided to have a Moro fair month-long feast, at which time all good and fiesta at the time of the junta. The Moros fast during the day and eat and citizens were mostly Filipinos, the mer- howl all night. chants mostly Chinese. At the meeting As Cotabato District is about equal in for organizing the fair, the Filipinos and area to that of the States of Delaware and the two Spaniards did most of the talking. New Hampshire taken together, Sherif The Chinese, being asked their opinion, Afdal's offer of the use of his Moro mescalled for the subscription-list and put sengers was accepted; and because he was down their names, the captain Chinaman, a person of great influence among the old Celestino, heading the list with fifty Moros, he was urged to make known genpesos. Then a central committee was ap- erally throughout the district the advanpointed, made of the American governor, tages to be obtained from attendance at the Moro presidente, a Spanish merchant, the fair. The sherif was the only one a Filipino justice of the peace, and the who had seen a fair. While a soldier of captain Chinaman. From this resulted Lord Roberts of Kandahar, he had atthe “First Moro Agricultural and Indus- tended fairs in India, which were in some trial Fair."

ways not unlike the one we now planned Loyola, my Moro interpreter, and the for the Moros. Afghan, Sherif Afdal, the high priest, The first to reply to our invitations was wrote to all the datos to bring in samples Dato Kali Pandapatan, the fighting priest of the best of their handiwork, of the best and chief of the Buldoon Plateau. He of their produce, and of the best of the informed me that he would come if he was forest products. It was explained that not sick. Others did likewise, and it bethese samples were not asked for as a con- gan to appear that the fair idea was fatribution, as was customary with them, vorably received on all sides.

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