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C Ꮯ

YPRUS is a panded over me ; as the British tourist country which utterly disappeared—for the time of

in my early tourists in Syria was not yet; as the youth always ex- deck of the steamer, which, touching cited my curiosity first at Jaffa, was presently from Beyand imagination; rout to take me across to Larnaka,

and several years showed me nothing but veiled or turbefore the British baned figures, some crouching in prayer, occupation was others babbling unintelligibly; as wak

thought of, I had, ing one morning I saw that a mile away being then an undergraduate at Ox- from me were the brown sands and the ford, entertained a project of spend- tufted palms of Palestine, and inland ing one of my vacations there. That the violet lines of the hills about Jerusaproject, however, eventually came to lem ;—as I underwent this gradual nothing; and it had long ceased to oc- change of experience, a corresponding cupy a place even among my fancies change took place in the color of my when it was revived last autumn in a own expectations. Something began very unromantic way. I was given to to stir in me of my former sentiment, believe that there was certain property and curiosity; and I found myself once in the island which might possibly prove more looking forward to my destination a profitable investment; and I started as a land of romance and wonder rather at Christmas for the region of my for- than of profitable investments. Nor was gotten dreams, with the dull, practical this change transient : on my arrival it object of ascertaining if this were so. developed and completed itself. With I calculated that a fortnight's visit would regard to investments, I made all inbe amply sufficient for what I wanted ; quiries that were necessary—with what and as I intended to finish the winter result it is needless here to mention ; in Italy, was looking forward, during but having made these, and indeed the first part of my journey, less to the whilst I was making them, the imaginavisit itself than to the day when I should tive interest of the scenes and the life be able to end it.

surrounding me threw more and more Gradually, however, as I drifted south- the material interests into the backward and eastward, as I left behind me ground, and made me feel, like Saul and the squalid skies of England, the snows like Wilhelm Meister, that having gone that down to Brindisi made Italy hide- out to seek for my father's asses I had ous, and the deluge of gray rain that found a kingdom. obscured and chilled Alexandria ; as the Many books have been written about air grew clearer, the breeze warmer, and Cyprus, historical, archæological, statistiat last the blue dome opened and ex- cal, political, and scientific; and some of

Copyright, 1888, by Charles Scribner's Sons. All rights reserved.

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them are full of accurate and valuable in- names, which have made or colored its formation : but in no single one is there past, which its own name still calls back any adequate tribute to its general charm to us, and whose influences still linger in and fascination, or apart from its spe- its aspect and in its life to-day. Egypt cialized interests. A distinguished sa- and Tyre, Greece, Rome, and Byzantivant, whom I met there engaged in ex- um, feudal England, Jerusalem, feudal cavating, and who grubbed for his an- France, Genoa, Venice, and Stamboultiquities as eagerly as a pig for truffles, the mere recital of the empires and powlet fall in my hearing that he was daily ers connected with it comes to the ear longing for the time when the tale of like a passage out of Paradise Lost. his treasures should be completed, and Other names, too, it claims, which are he might quit the soil which yielded even more suggestive-Aphrodite and them. There is a specimen of the tem- Adonis, who met on its sleeping hillper in which Cyprus has been studied sides, Balaam and Ezekiel who sang of and visited! What wonder then that it its power and riches, Solomon, Solon, has never had justice done to it? Coun- and Alexander, St. Paul, St. George, tries are like women. Any careful ob- Richard Cour de Lion of Englandserver may take stock of their orna- again, Othello and Desdemona, the Sulments, worm out their history, and even tans Selim and Mustapha-time would arrive at the amount of their debts and fail to fill in half the catalogue, or do income ; but those only can do them more than allude to the pageant of imjustice in some ways who, in addition ages evoked by it. Further it must be to observing them, end by falling in love added that this land of unnumbered with them. This process, equally de- memories has been also a world's provlightful and unexpected, I myself under- erb for its own unrivalled loveliness, for went with reference to Cyprus ; and I its groves and fountains, for its plains of gradually began to contemplate a short fabulous fertility, and the magic of its book about it, in which the wrongs done enchanting air. to its beauty might be atoned for. So many interests almost confuse the Meanwhile I am glad to have an oppor- imagination; but the interest which, if tunity of describing a few of its chief not the greatest, is at least the most pescenes and characteristics, especially as culiar is to be found in its history durit gives me the privilege of committing ing the Middle Ages. In Cyprus it was some photographs taken by me to the that with the most enduring results the permanent keeping of the unrivalled armed chivalry of the West wedded the wood engraving of America.

luxury of the East, and gave birth to an

entirely strange civilization. The Gothic Cyprus is, in some ways, unique among doorway, native to France and England, historical countries, not indeed in the and crowned with the very shields peantiquity of its earliest civilization, culiar to Western heraldry, there gave though even in this point it yields only access not to the stern courtyard, but to Egypt, but in the strange variety of to gardens of palms and oranges, and races, of rulers, of religions, and famous murmuring marble fountains. The

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