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so furiously that any craft small enough to name horses and gold-mines, but it is even get through from one lake to the next more unique to discover for yourself a would be capsized by it. There were days mountain 8,000 feet high, or a cascade alwhen even out in the open lake where we most as big as the Falls of Lodore, and recamped the waves were so high that we flect that you can christen them. Of course, could not venture out in our little canvas ca- you cannot be sure that the names you give noe, which was brought with the tents and them will go down to posterity, but there is stores and kit-bags and saddles and oats and a great deal of satisfaction in merely havthe hundred other necessaries, and which ing done it, and, of course, you can always could be conveniently broken into little bits magnificently refer to them after the manand stuffed in the canvas covering until it ner you have decided upon. looked like a cricket-bag with the bats in it. Sometimes as we rowed from one lake
The country around the Kootenay Lakes into the next we would come unexpectedly is a sort of happy lotus land. There was a upon sheltered coves where the clear,
green dreamy heat and quiet about it, a delicious water slipped over a sandy bottom as hard sense of utter solitude, and a glimpse of a and smooth as asphalt, and we would row happy existence independent of most of the frantically back to camp for bathing-suits to things which one usually thinks of as being try it. And sometimes when we discovessential to happiness, which is good for one ered" an ideal beach, we would run our to experience. From that place the world canoe up on it for the mere pleasure of and all its pleasures seemed as far off as utilizing such an extremely good landingthough one were looking at them through place, and once we were rewarded by findthe wrong end of an opera-glass. The feel- ing the fresh prints of an antelope on the ing began to grow on us at the outset of the sand and a deserted bear-trap farther up long, lazy journey, when we drove straight on the shore, in the brush. west over the prairie, with the horses going There were nights when we would go out in their steady, easy trot and the trap sway- in the canoe and float as far into the chain ing gently on the thick prairie-grass and a of lakes as we dared, with only the far-off misty blue and white mountain-peak in the cry of a loon or the soft whirr of a wild distance to guide our course by. Ranches duck as it scurried low across the water to and all the familiar places we had known break the silence, and the mountains towmelted away behind us, and we wound ering high all about us, silver-white in the higher and higher up among the foot-hills, moonlight, so that they looked like giant with glimpses downward of softly blend- icebergs rising from the little sea, and maked shades of green, or upward to snowy ing us feel that we were in some enchanted mountains, or ahead the glint of yellowed country. And when the moon sank behind grass ready to be cut. And when we some tall peak and a shadow fell upon the reached the lake, lying blue and warm and lake and the wind sprang up cold and still under the brilliant sun, and breathed in strong, we would turn the boat around and the spicy odor of the pines and realized that row back, through the narrow little waterthis undiscovered country was all ours, we ways, out into the big, open lake and make felt very much like pitching our tents there for the white dots on the far shore which for good. Of course there would have been weknew were our tents. And then, if it were some difficulty about living there in the win- not too late, we would build a big fire on the ter, but no one troubled about that just then. shore with great pieces of fallen trees, and
I do not think, however, the beauty of the blaze would flare up as we gathered the lake appealed to some as much as the around it and sang “The Maple Leaf” or magnificent fishing. A salmon-trout four- “ The Red River Valley," and " Au Clair teen and a half pounds in weight was an ob- de la Lune ” and “ L'Alouette.” Anyone ject much more worthy of contemplation who has not heard Canadians sing these to some of us than the mountains around. songs, especially “L'Alouette,” which reFortunately the two things could be com- quires a strong voice and a great deal bined. One could start out in the canoe of breath and a wonderful memory, has with the trolling-line, and then if the fish did missed a very stirring performance. not bite the trip could be converted into an It was very hard to break camp, but the exploration party. It is very amusing to last day came, and we retraced our way
and again watched with breathless anxiety the water would come into every trap exthe heavy teams crawl up the steep hills cept ours, so it was necessary to make or plunge into the swift little streams and several trips with it to bring over all the pull themselves up the rocky banks. It women and the baby. The rest of the was all the harder to go back because men drove the other traps over, while there was so little time left at all. The those who were already safely landed East, which had seemed so remote for stood on the bank and shouted warnings three months, suddenly appeared surpris- and encouragement and contradictory adingly near. Breaking camp meant not vice to those crossing, in a perfectly madonly going back to the detachment, but dening way. The young rancher, besides the real beginning of the journey east- driving over his trap, had to bring over ward. It was all over, and one had only his saddle-horse, too. He did this by fastjust begun to enjoy hearing the coyotes ening his broncho to the down - stream howl at night and to be able to recognize side of the span, propping his feet on the quickly the different brands on the cattle dashboard, and then trusting to Proviand to feel a new life and elasticity in the dence. If any one really wishes an exclear, bracing air. There is something in citing sensation he should watch a light the air which quickens every sense and trap attached to a team of spirited horses, makes one keen for danger or experience with a young broncho alternately plunging or pleasure — especially pleasure. One and shying by their side, attempt to cross lady told me that a year or so ago she a deep river at the same time that logs had given a “tea ” when the thermometer anywhere from ten to fifteen feet long and wasthirty-four degrees below zero, and that as big around as one's head are racing every one of the invited guests came. But down stream to see which can first knock if people stopped for slight difficulties, not the horses down by neatly hitting them on only all social intercourse but living itself the forelegs, or splinter the spokes of the would cease in northwest Canada. At wheels or inextricably tangle themselves least we felt that way when we accept- up under the body of the trap. After ed an invitation to “afternoon tea " at a having experienced this pleasurable senranch fourteen miles away and on the sation we gravely pursued our way to the other side of a very much swollen river ranch of our hostess, talked to a dozen or just then filled with big logs which had so people, and ate lettuce-sandwiches and been sent down from the mountaiņs and ices and drank chocolate just as we could which were spinning along at a most lively and probably would have done if we had rate. Teas in the East are almost with stayed at home, and bravely went through out exception considered bores, but in all our exciting experiences again on our this case it really seemed that life would way back. It did not occur to us until not be worth living if we did not go. To some time afterward that we had really add to our personal difficulties, the horses gone to a great deal of trouble to get to usually driven to the trap could not be that afternoon tea. used, so that an obliging Englishman had But all that was over now. There were . to offer to take us. To do so he had to to be no more house-parties or Indian drive seventeen miles from his ranch to tea-dances or gymkhanas, or glimpses reach us, rest his horses, and take lunch- of the Rockies, snowy and glistening in eon with us before we could start on the the clear morning air ; no long, soft twireal journey. But no one faltered in the lights when the purple air hung over the stern determination to go. Ten miles level land and the white moon swung drive to the river seemed a small matter, across the heavens and the Great Bear and, as we encountered several of the and the evening star shone nearer and invited guests on our way, by the time clearer than they ever shone before, and we reached the crossing there was quite a there came from far off the faintly heard procession, including two traps, a road- gallop of some broncho as his rider urged cart, light wagon, a young rancher on him across the prairie, and the breath of horseback, a baby, and a collection of the chinook as it sprang up and bore dogs.
At the critical moment it was dis- abroad the odor of the wolf-willow and covered that the river was so high that wild rose and forget-me-not.
dignity lives in the straight sky line
that marks the summit. “But when I saw that woman's face,
On three sides the mountains guard Its calm simplicity of grace
Lost Cove, on the fourth the barrier
that shuts this basin from the world is It had been a wild morning up lowered. But though lowered, the litamong the Cumberlands. A March tle stream that through all the years morning full of rain, of clouds that had hollowed out Lost Cove, found veiled the mountains, and of wind that here an obstacle that its patient zeal tore the clouds to shreds. But at the could not remove. It could not rise turn of the day the wind had fallen. above it—it could not wear it through, The great masses of trees that purpled and so it sank, and burrowing deep the mountain-side from base to apex among the “ hidden bases of the hills, had ceased their tossing, and stood in found victory and freedom. From out dark monotony, save when a gray cliff the black-browed cave it flashed again thrust itself out, or a wild,
into the glad sunshine, with a mocking len stream dashed its spray toward the laugh for the barring cliffs that rose sky as it flung itself down into the val- two hundred feet above it, to face the ley.
eastern sun. The shadows are gathering early over Near the upper end of the Cove, a little valley known as “Lost Cove.” which is nearly a mile long, there stands On all sides the mountains rise about a house built of squared logs, carefully it in soft, sweeping curves, until they morticed at the corners, and neatly stand out against the sky a level, un- “chinked" with plaster. Seventy years broken line. There is little of rugged ago it was built by the first Warren, as wildness in these old mountains, for no a defense as well as a shelter. Three stormy outburst marked their birth. rooms, a lobby, a loft, and two piazzas They stand the perfect work of the make the extent of it. A room on ages. Their gray old faces looked out either side the lobby that connects the across the slow silurian sea, whose wan- front and back piazzas, and from which dering waves began the patient work of a rough stairway leads up to the loft. denudation.
The third room is made by boarding in No rugged wildness, but a silent the end of the back piazza, and through grandeur of repose smoothes every its single window a modern cookingcurve of every spur that stretches out stove pushes its pipe. The floors look across the plain, and a great unspoken worn with scrubbing, the small, deep
set windows shine like eyes, and the gate open, remembered one more article great stone chimneys that grace either that could be sold—butter. end of the house, look as if there for She fetched two wooden piggins, eternity. Around the house built is a white with scouring, and some fodder, rough picket-fence ; within this enclos- then brought the cows in one at a time ure there are some cedar-trees, some to the inner lot. She moved with the common rose - bushes, some chickens deliberation of age, and milked with paand some much-scratched grass.
Be- tient sedateness. This quietness was a yond, and rising and falling with the class-habit, but increased in this girl's swells of the mountain, is a rail fence case through her having lived always which shuts in from the public road with old people; and now the heavy rethe lot where the hogs, and cows, and sponsibilities that crowded upon her horses are kept, and where stand the seemed to have banished all youthfulfew out - buildings. From the lower end of this outer lot, the fields stretch The Warrens had always been well-todown the Cove to where the stream do, making at home almost everything sinks, and a stately beech-grove crowns they needed. After his sons left him the the rising ground. The public road old man had been quite able to carry on from the mountains turns at Mr. War- the place, and before his strength failed ren's gate, and zig-zags along these his eldest son had returned with his fields to the beech-wood, then it marches motherless baby, Hannah. So there over the divide to the far-off valley. had been little need for money until
A young woman leaned over the out. now, when, her father dead and her er gate. The rain had ceased, and the grandfather disabled, Hannah needed to wind came softly with a touch of spring. hire help. She might have paid in kind, It would be clear on the morrow, the but everybody that she knew made all girl thought as she looked up from the they needed. The only people she had shadows of the Cove to where the cloud- ever heard of who bought everything broken sunlight flashed and faded on and saved nothing, were these new peothe mountain-tops. A clear spring day, ple on the mountain, who were held and as the warm wind swept by, her throughout the country to be strangely fair cheeks Aushed with gladness for “lackin.” Old Mrs. Warren pronounced the coming spring.
them “darn fools, a-settin' round with The winter had been hard, and for the books in their hands." first time the Warrens had felt them- The milking done, Hannah took the selves
poor. This girl's father had been pails into the kitchen. With the same killed a few months before, and she lack of haste she stirred the fire under and her grandparents had had to fight the kettle, opened the oven to look at through the cold weather alone. And the corn-bread, strained the milk, then now, as she waited for the cows, the taking up an axe went into the back-yard. touch of warmth in the wind brought to Her face grew graver as she looked at her mind a new problem-the planting. the wood-pile ; she would have to go for Some help would have to be hired, and more to morrow, and she sighed as she where was the money? They had bacon, pulled a log into position for cutting. and apples, and potatoes that could be There was an outlet from all this. sold—if she could take them to the town She could marry her cousin Si Durket. on top the mountain. The color flamed She would rather cut wood all day! into her face ; she had never “peddled” And the axe swung into the air with an in her life! Her grandfather was held ease and swiftness scarcely to be looked fast by rheumatism, and her grand- for from a woman. mother would far rather starve than go No good would ever come to Si. She on such an errand.
rested on the axe as she turned the log Presently a cow-bell clanked, and with her foot. Peddling would be betdown the mountain-side, in dignified ter than Si; hiring out-starving-any procession, came the rough, long-legged, thing would be better. Yet, if somepatient-eyed cows. The girl roused her thing were not done very soon, she would self with a sigh, and holding the big have to marry him, or let the old people
want. Mrs. Wilson, from the far side the stove. The “Durket sperret” could of the Cove, went up to the mountain to not stand this, and the young people had peddle—she could go with her. Mrs. to go, but not the stove ; Mrs. Warren Wilson was a creature much scorned by kept that, and for the future vented Mrs. Warren, still she knew the ways at much of her superfluous wrath on it. the University, and could direct a begin- As Hannah entered, Mrs. Warren ner. It was worth thinking of. Gather- turned sharply : ing up the wood, she went into the house “I wonder you don't git tired a-playin' to her grandmother's room.
nigger, Hannah Warren,” was her greetIt was low, and the walls, finished up ing. The girl put down and arranged to the rafters with wood, were painted the wood before she answered: gray, spattered with white. A pine bed- “Thar is wuss things,” then stood stead, with tall posts and piled into a looking down into the fire. Straight as dumpling with feather-beds, filled one a young poplar, with the grace and
In another corner there stood roundness of perfect strength and a high chest of drawers, above which youth in every curve, Hannah, in her hung a spotted looking-glass and some scant black frock, was dowered with a peacock feathers. A spinning-wheel, beauty rare in any class.
A grave, a small table full of dusty odds and clear-cut face, waving brown hair taken ends, a large rocking-chair covered with straight back and twisted in a knot, a a patchwork quilt, and a few splint- full throat that showed exquisitely white bottomed chairs, finished the furnishing where the little faded shawl feil
away of the room. In the rocking-chair, close from it, and hands that, if hard and to the great fireplace, sat an old man, brown, were very shapely. and an old woman stood near a window Her grandmother looked at her incatching the last light on her work. tently as she stood there, and grumbled
She had been a handsome woman a little under her breath. once, and, like Hannah, was tall, but “Ain't you none better, Gramper ?” here the likeness ended. Mrs. Warren's 'Hannah asked pityingly of the old man, face was sharp and hard, the girl's face bent nearly double in his chair. was grave and strong; Mrs. Warren's “I'm some easier,” he answered, paeyes were keen, while Hannah's eyes tiently, “but I'm tore up a-steddyin' were thoughtful, almost sad. Further, 'bout the crap. Mrs. Warren's temper and tongue were “The crap wouldn't count if Hannah famous, while Hannah seemed still and had a shavin' o' sense,” the old woman gentle. Perhaps time was needed to struck in sharply. reveal Hannah ; perhaps the temper of “Supper's ready, Granny,” Hannah her grandmother had made her esteem said, and left the room. peace as the greatest good. Each son “You pesters Hannah moren human, had had to take his wife away, and Han- Mertildy," the old man suggested, mildnal's father had only come back after ly; "an' she a good gal.” his wife's death, when, seeing that his “I reckon I knows my own flesh an' father needed him, he stayed. A gentle, blood, John Warren,” his wife retorted; patient man, he could put up with the “an' but fur you, I'd larn her some temper his mother, whose maiden name sense, or know why.
Si Durket's my had been Durket, was proud to call the own brether's son, an' as good as Han“Durket sperret.” With regard to his nah Warren will ever git.
He's got a child, he knew that no real harm would plenty, an' is free-handed an' hearty, an’ come to any creature absolutely depend- he'll do to look at too. He's a Durket ent on his mother. “Her own" meant through an' through." a great deal to Mrs. Warren. Her sons' “All the same, Mertildy, Hannah wives she had looked on as aliens. The don't favor Si." kitchen stove introduced by one of these “ Don't favor Si! You makes me unworthies had caused the final break- weak, John Warren! Do a steer favor ing up of the family. The young wom- a yoke? but thet's all a steer or a yoke an had declared the open fireplace to be is made fur. Gals is the same ; an' all old-fashioned, and her husband bought yokes is jest alike as fur as I kin see.”