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Here may be seen one of the most remark- and cast out among the fins and tails in able annual exhibitions of the rough course the soap-suds below the fall. The canoe of true love to be found in all the world. was ready, and in a few minutes the rod

The first fall on the Mingan is about was nearly jerked from the youngster's three miles from the mouth. It is forty-six hands. The men shoved him into the cafeet high, in three pitches about equal in noe and paddled for dear life after the runheight and with seething pools between. ning fish, which had impulsively started The spawning beds of the salmon are on

for the open sea. You may suppose that broad, gravelly bars far up the river. They the salmon broke loose; that he smashed must surmount this fall once a year in or- the tackle ; that he overturned the canoe. der to reach them. We camped on a sand- But he did not. Those guides knew their bar below the fall, and watched the strug- business, and so did the boy. The fish gle. The broad pool below the fall was towed the canoe two miles down stream, so full of these royal fish, that their tails and one hour and seventeen minutes after and dorsal fins could constantly be seen the trouble began, Braithwaite grabbed the sticking out of the water. Every minute salmon with the gaff-hook and threw him one or more fish would make a rush from up on a sand-bar. the depths below, spring far into the air, The next day we went up the river. every fibre quivering, and time after time Twelve miles from the falls, and after makfall back, only the most powerful and de- ing six or seven smaller ascents, we reached termined occasionally succeeding in pass- a place where the stream came through a ing the first pitch. Above that, every nook deep gorge. Here, again, we pitched our and crevice in the rocks where the salmon tent. On the morrow we climbed the could obtain a resting-place, was crowded. mountain, and looked down into the canGreat monsters they were, weighing from on, far below, filled with great rocks, twenty-five to forty pounds. How they riven from the precipice by the frost. In ever made the second and third pitches the crevices beneath our feet lay the unI do not know, for there was not the good melted ice of last winter, or of no one starting chance that they had in the deep knows how many winters, untouched by hole below the first pitch.

the August sun. There was a general air Well, the boy took a ten-ounce trout- of ruin about those cracks, and we could rod, with a hundred yards of line on it, not help wondering if the next rock to fall

a

It is very

canoes.

might be the one beneath our feet, and if to the coast. At Mingan, where there is this was its day for falling.

always a summer colony of them, many Climbing the highest peak in sight, the have permanent cabins. Fully a score of country beyond stretched away for miles those who summer there own trim little beneath our gaze.

Above the chasm the sail-boats of American make, for which river spread out into lake-like expansions, they pay one hundred dollars apiece. filled with green islands. Far to the north They trade their furs for what they need or rose the next low range of the mountains, fancy, and no one sells better supplies than and through a distant notch the thread of the Hudson Bay Company. During the the shining river was lost to view. The summer the Indians visit each other, do low clay bottoms were covered with a thick up their religious ceremonies for the year growth of small evergreens, while the high- —they are all good Catholics—and build est rocks, in their interstices, sheltered the new canoes for the return trip. ground hemlock and many other forms difficult to procure good birch-bark on the of verdure. As far as we could see, the North Shore, and of late years the Hudson world was gray and green ; and, though Bay Company have been furnished a fine the animals were noticeably less abundant grade of canvas for the outer covering of than in Maine or New Brunswick, yet we

It was very interesting to see the knew that the glimmering river was full of splendid, workman-like manner in which vigorous life, and that the quiet fresh-water the canoe builders did their work. Their seas beyond the hills in every direction canoes made our Malicete birch-bark affairs were the homes of myriads of beautiful seem ill-shapen and clumsy by comparison.

creatures that knew not the fear of hook When we returned to Mingan we found and line. In a little depression we found the graceful yacht of the Jesuit missionary the skeleton-like lodge poles where, earlier in the harbor. This devoted man and fine in the season, some family of Montagnais sailor had come from a more distant point had lived while on a spring bear-hunt. down the coast, and there was great acAway to the north, in the country“ beyond tivity among the Indians. Dowa by the the Height of Land," as the Hudson Bayshore a new canoe, white as snow, was people call it, we saw, in imagination, the raised on a little platform. The missionbands of caribou, gray-necked and patri- ary came out from one of the tents, in the archal, which are the standard winter food vestments of his sacred office, stood beof these Indians.

fore the assembled Indians, held his hands I do not know how other men would aloft, and chanted the service of blessing feel on the top of that mountain, looking the canoe, in a fine, sonorous voice that over into the depths of the Labrador wil- could be heard at least half a mile. The derness ; but to me that day all its voices holy water was sprinkled, and then the sang a siren's song, and the myriad faces solemnity of the occasion was of the hills and lakes smiled a glad wel- marred by the Indians producing their

People are accustomed to think guns, bedecked with ribbons, and firing a of that vast and far-off wild as a death- scattering round of shots as a finale. like, forbidding place. It is not so. In It was at Mingan, too, that we saw a winter, cold and severe, no doubt ; in sum- little more of the vicissitudes which beset mer it is God's own land of beauty. But the dauntless pioneers of the Church. It we could not tarry, and in a few days we was about time for a pastoral visit from left the fish in peace, and returned down Father Bouchard, the spiritual shepherd of the river to Mingan.

the fishermen. While we were in the harThe Hudson Bay people tell me that a bor a man appeared on the nearest island Montagnais family will often bring down, and shouted loudly for help. Being resas a season's catch, a thousand dollars cued, he was found to be Father Bouworth of furs. Sometimes, if the wander- chard, wet and miserable. While he had ing caribou shift their winter feeding- slept, the man accompanying him had run grounds, the Indians are in danger of star- his boat aground near one of the islands, vation ; but if things go as they should the night before. The good Father, who the natives do very well. Each spring had nothing to eat, waited for high tide they come in their canoes down the river to float him off ; but the hope was vain.

Vol. XXII.–35

a little

come.

As it was,

Then he waited until low tide, waded One might write about the wonderful across half a mile of shoal water and fol- fishing rivers east of the Mingan ; of the lowed the beach of the island around for Romaine, the great Natashquan, and a four miles, until he came opposite the score of other streams. But we did not post. Then his shouts were heard, and sail that far. As Deputy Commissioner he was relieved from further impersonation Tache had told us at Quebec, if we had of Robinson Crusoe. We took him into visited those distant waters, we should not our big dining-room and kitchen in the have come back that summer. hold, where he devastated the food in an we flew homeward before a northeaster appalling manner. While he slept in the that howled over the gulf and blew away cabin Mr. Malony and his son went to see some of our sails, and shot us into the harif they could get Father Bouchard's boat bor of Grand Metis, on the South Shore, off the rocks. They succeeded, for the boat where, at low tide, the water all went out and its luckless pilot overtook us down of the bay and let the schooner down on the coast two days later. In the mean- her side. The bilge water ran over the time the priest slept, ate, indulged in rough bunks of the guides who were asleep forand tumble games with my boy friend, ward ; the boy rolled out of his berth in and took his turn at the schooner's wheel the cabin ; the dishes fell off the table, and for hours at a time. Strong as a pugilist, there were French imprecations in the cheerful as a cricket, all things to all men, darkness. But in the morning our schoonFather Bouchard was a fine example of er was right side up again, floating on the the wisdom displayed by the Catholic high tide as though nothing had hapChurch in the selection of the men to ful- pened. fil its arduous tasks. He insisted on our We went ashore and found a man who anchoring at his little home village of Mag- loaded our baggage on a little two-wheeled pie, where on Sunday afternoon he had red cart, and we followed him over the the idle fishermen catch and harness his hills, driving a horse which refused to recwinter dog-team, to exhibit the means by ognize the command to “ Get up,” but which, when winter filled the gulf with which cheerfully responded to “ Marche ice, he travelled from one end of his long donc !” Six miles of this brought us to parish to the other. The dogs knew there the railroad station at St. Flavie, on the was something wrong about being hitched Intercolonial Railway, and two days later to a sled in August, so they entangled we were sweltering in a belated hot spell their harness, pulled awry, and fought like which swept over the Northern States like demons. We heard them howling as we a furnace-blast. Then we wished we had sailed away with the tide.

tarried on the edge of Labrador.

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By Bradley Gilman

I

66

me

SIT, often, upon the parsonage porch, ence, and both lost their saddened aspect, with my books and papers. I love to sit and hopefully smiled. The dog's smile

there, for its southerly exposure is suited was the more marked of the two, but it to my thinned blood in these latter days. was a real smile—if one knows dogs—and And then, as I read of the world's doings, quite restored my confidence. His mouth and become troubled by the thought of opened, his tongue lolled out, his ragged sins and sinners, I raise my eyes to the old ears pointed forward like shattered interchurch, near at hand-my old church, rogation points, he tossed his head back, mine to grow old beside, twined with ivy and quickened, from a sober, and even and with tender memories—I look up dignified, walk, to a trot, which had a sad from the world's record of hate and lust suggestion of forced gayety in it. Presand craft, and the dear old church softens ently the man stood before me, hat in my mood; and I say a prayer, not only in hand, and humbly addressed me. behalf of the oppressed, but of the op- Only a little bread and coffee, this pressor also : “ Father, forgive them, for bright morning, Yer Riverence !" they know not what they do !”

Then he turned sharply upon the dog, From my quiet retreat on the vine-shel- who was snuffing at my

knees : " Down, tered porch I have not only a good view Satan ! Set down thar !” And the dog of the hill road, our main thoroughfare, obeyed. but I can also overlook the larger part of I have many kinds of titles bestowed my garden. And often Michael, white- upon me by strange visitors. The book haired old Michael, can take directions agents and insurance agents usually call from me, by a sign or two, without com- “ Doctor,” knowing the weaknesses ing up the lawn to the porch.

and ambitions of the ministry. The forPoor old Michael ! There he is, now, lorn people with letters of recommendacoaxing the tendrils of a trumpet flower tion often say “ Your Honor ; ” the Celup over the stump of an old cherry-tree. tic portion of my visitors use the title “ Yer The bent, decrepit figure of the man Riverence; and sometimes a German brings back the past to me. I recall, as if it addresses me tersely as “ Reverend.” In were yesterday, a morning like this, twenty this case it was Yer Riverence." years ago, when I sat, as I do now, on the I looked at the man and felt sure I had porch, and a man opened the garden-gate, seen him before, for I recall faces easily ; hesitated, entered, and came shambling up a minister must do that. As I caught his the path. As he drew near I saw, by his wandering glance it was

as when one faded, shapeless hat, his gray, collarless knocks and knocks at a door, and sees a shirt, his torn and soiled coat, and his trou- window curtain flutter, and hears a subsers worn and baggy, and fringed at the bot- dued step in the hall, but gets no answer toms, that he was a tramp. With him was a to his summons.

I could look at his eyes, dog, a brindled bull-dog, having a patch of but could not look into them. white around one eye, with ears looking Now it was different with the dog. His like pennants frayed out by many storms, soul came cordially out into his eyes, as and a short stump of a tail so animaled into a portico, to bid me welcome ; and that it seemed a thing of life, quite apart as I glanced at him a grateful tremor befrom the animal himself. The dog had a

The dog had a gan at his ragged eartips, spread over his rough, savage air, which led me--although rough, dirty body, and disappeared at the I love dogs most devotedly—to glance for tip of his stiff, stumpy tail. reassurance at the open door behind me. I looked at the man again, and asked,

As the two soiled, disreputable wander- “My man, haven't I seen you here beers came near, both recognized my pres- fore?"

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He frowned for an instant.

He was

the time ; once in a while though, Yer deciding whether I was fixed enough in Riverence, I lose me timper a bit, and my suspicion to maintain it.

thin—thin-1-1-well—Satan, we know Then he decided that I was; and, draw- all about it, boy, don't we? And we ing nearer, he said, with a persuasive don't bear no ill-feeling, as between pals, smile, and in a very confidential tone, “ I'll do we?” tell yer, Yer Riverence; I was here only The faithful dog responded with viowanst before ; three months ago, about ; lent tail-waggings, and with subdued little yer'll belave me, now, Yer Riverence, fer growls of affection, and the tramp broke it's hiven’s truth I'm tillin' yer; and yer'll off a large piece of bread and gave it to not mind me comin' this mornin', for Sa- him. tan and me is ’most starved."

I was now interested enough in the sinSatan corroborated this speech—which gular pair of friends to draw the man out; I'm sure he understood—by a subdued and his account of the dog—with my own whine and a most intelligent and plead- interpretation of it—I have deemed mying look into my face.

self justified in giving to the public. For a moment I was puzzled as to my As the man talked, clumsily mixing his duty. The fellow was plainly a shiftless food and his words, the fact became vagabond. His habits of life were re- clearer and clearer to me that from the corded not only on his garments but in first Satan had been a greatly misunderhis face. Yet he had thrown himself on stood dog. my confidence and sympathy ; and then To begin with, there was his evil name. - I must confess it—as I glanced at the That had been given him when a tiny dog, looking up trustfully into the face of puppy, merely because the words had fighis worthless master as a hungry soul ured on a lurid play bill, and had caught might look up toward his God, the scene the eye of the hostler, his first owner. touched me ; my heart softened, and for Then his appearance was much against the dumb brute's sake I bade his master him ; for his right eye was encircled by a stay. I entered the house and brought patch of white hair, and contrasted sharpout bread and meat and coffee.

ly with the dark brindle color of the reThen the better side of his character mainder of his body. Anybody who took showed itself; as I had expected, he pains to look at the eye itself-large, full, shared this food with his dog. The earnest, even pleading-could have read hungry dependent stood with bright, eager the animal's honest character at once; but eyes looking up at his master, and his most people noticed only the general evil long, red tongue flicked alternately out and effect of the white patch. in, at the sides of his mouth, as if he were Moreover, an imperfect growth of the sharpening it for instant use ; and all the upper lip showed two of his white, glistentime little thrills and chills coursed down ing teeth; and they also gave the appearalong his body like ripples on a lake. ance of ill-temper ; so that, although the

“Yours?" I asked ; "your dog?" puppy was actually the gentlest and most

"You bet, Yer Riverence ! begging intelligent of his litter, his threatening apyour pardon for the word.”

Here one

pearance seemed to give reasons for his greasy finger shot upward in apology tow- ominous name. ard his rimless hat. He's mine ; all Satan was the largest and most active mine, every hair of him.”

of his brothers and sisters ; and as he al“I hope you're kind to him," I vent- ways came off victor in their frolics, he ured ; for I had my doubts as I detected was looked upon with approval by the the fellow's unstable character; I thought idlers of the stable, and was considered as he was one of those lovers of dogs who a promising young fighter. would heap kindness on a pet in one ten- Then, when he was about six months der mood, and then abuse him cruelly in old, he had some difficulty with the cutting a fit of temper.

of his teeth; one or two of them did not “Yes, I'm-I'm kind to Satan ;” and come through the gums easily; and for a his vacillating glance rested with real ten- week or more he tried to help the operaderness on the dog. “ That is—most of tion by biting at everything he could get

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