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IGHT o'clock !

Not a

pass from one to the other. I stepped very early hour, of a in to hear an act at the Teatro Princimidsummer morning, pal. Or rather, I heard an entire piece,

but at San Sebastian it for the plays are short and completed seems a little earlier than else- within the hour; it is not necessary to where. San Sebastian is a spend the whole evening there, which late sitting - up place. Its is fortunate, as it is a stuffy kind of nights are not “made for place and the companies are of but study and a brow of care," average merit. Next I went to the as the poet Willis says. It Casino, glanced at the periodicals in does not burn the midnight the reading-room, then at the gamingoil; but it burns, in ample rooms—far less interesting than at Mon

supply, the festal rocket and te Carlo—tried to learn if there were red fire, and the c and incandescent any celebrities in the crowd taking relights that shed around a radiance as freshments on the terrace, and then bright as day. Consequently when one

Consequently when one went up to look at the dancing in the has watched so late he must sleep in the beautiful ball-room. When I left, at a morning to make up for it.

passably late hour, the little tables in Last night, for instance, as well as I front of the Café de la Marina, on the can recollect, I dined at nine o'clock, Bulevar, were still occupied by people and then I went out to spend the even- taking ices, and another ball was going ing.

The dinner -hour is made very on at the Cantabrian Club. Some of the late, in order to devote to the prome- feminine participants had come forth for nade the cool of the afternoon, the sun- a breathing spell, and were looking down set hours, when the sun goes down, in pleasing attitudes from its terrace on with magnificent glow and twilight ef- the second story. Those people will see fects, between the island and the moun- the pale daylight dawn over the bay, for tains, just across the front of the beauti- the Cantabrian Club is a most select assoful bay. I sat in one of the multitude ciation; it does not often give entertainof yellow chairs, or walked with the ments, and when it does they want to people, listening to the concert, on the make the most of them. Boulevard — the Bulevar, as the Span- Eight o'clock is especially associated ish form is—and then went to the con- in mind with the return of the regiments cert in front of the Casino. The bands from their drill-grounds, beyond the Queen play alternately, and it is the custom to Regent's summer palace, their bands play

Copyright, 1897, by Charles Scribner's Sons. All rights reserved.

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ing at their head. They wheel at our Long before eight the newsboys had corner in a precisely mathematical right been crying the morning paper ; and, inangle, and away to their barracks in the deed, while taking my coffee, I had often old fortress on Mount Urgull. Their uni- read many a column of it. “ The Voice ! :) form, blue and red, might easily be mis- they would cry. ,

“ The Voice !" “ The taken for that of the French, except for Voice of Guipúzcoa !” I wish I could acthe peculiar white cap, characteristically curately represent the lamenting and muSpanish. They are small men, as a rule, sical tone. Guipúzcoa is the province, and young and even boyish-looking. One re- prosperous San Sebastian, population 28,gards them now with the heightened in- ooo, its capital. There is hardly any such terest we give to that over which a melan- good plan for making an intimate acquaintcholy fate may be impending. For the ance with a town as to read its local paper destination of most Spanish troops now is on the spot. It is better than guides, betCuba, and, in the country itself, the war in ter even than intelligent friends, who inCuba is regarded as an almost hopeless sist on showing you only what is extraoraffair. They hardly expect to reduce and dinary in the place, whereas it is the orretain their rebellious colony, but they say dinary and usual that are often the most they must put forth all their efforts for the novel to the stranger, and always the most pundonor, the point of honor : they must abounding in real interest. This Voice is a not consent to the dismemberment of their good newspaper, even after American territory. Surely there is less than usual in ideas, with plenty of local news. It tells this kind of a motive to lighten the gloomy who goes and who comes. Plenty of prospect of death in battle or by jungle grandees of Spain among the arrivals. But fever.

there are plenty left to go elsewhere, too,

a

.

we

their money

for at Biarritz are registered, all at one and red Phrygian caps. They sing in the time, not less than six dukes, with such arena, devoting that place of blood for famous names as those of Alba, Bejar, once to something worthier than the tortFernan Nuñez, and Prim. San Sebastian ure of poor animals. But it is mismanand Biarritz supplemented each other, the aged, and the choristers are exposed, unresidents of each country easily getting a der the open sky, to a heavy downpour complete change of air by going to the of rain, and are soaked to the skin. other. This would be the case even more

One could wish that the Voice were not but for the tedious custom-house delay at quite so bitter in its tone toward Cuba ; the frontier. On bull-fighting days ex- but this very bitterness is a useful indicursionists pour over from France by cation of the prevailing discouragement thousands. The arena is but a step from about the struggle. the station, and, the spectacle finished, “ If the worst comes to the worst," they storm the trains in a scene of wild find it saying, “ let us leave only, to the animation. An effort to keep all these people and

at home, by opening bull rings there, was the cause of the late tumults in the south of France, for the more humane French Government would not have it.

Our newspaper announces the speedy coming of the foremost bull - fighters of Spain, Guerrita and Mazzantini, for the great functions about August 15th. It announces also the Señoritas Toreras, quite a new sensation in the field, a company of young girl bull-fighters, none of them more than seventeen years old. It says that the Queen Regent will visit, to-morrow, the cruiser lying in the harbor. We shall probably be able to see her. It says that the famous statesman, Castelar, is staying at the Villa Triana. Good! we must look out for him, on the promenade or the terrace of the Casino. It announces the Choristers of Clavé. This is a convention of popular singing societies, who come in a few days later, and fill the town with their banners

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Smachtens

Santa Maria- the Old Church.

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