guarded by sentinels in gray. The enemy was next day driven from his base of supplies.

The siege was over. The pathway to the sea lay before Sherman.

Wood's Redoubt is still one of the most striking objects in the valley of Chattanooga. Standing on the grass-grown ramparts one has an exquisite view of Lookout, the Tennessee's abrupt recoil at its base, and the sharp peak of Eagle Point, and can note the two turns of the river, with the Moccasin Point between, around whose southern bend, on the midnight of November 23-4, Sherman moved his three thousand men in pontoons. Northward, and opposite the redoubts, over-hanging the Tennessee, is Cameron Hill, from whose wind-swept height one can look down upon Chattanooga's busy streets as from a balloon. On the slopes adjacent to Cameron's Hill there are many handsome residences, and Wood's Redoubt, itself, will in a few years be lost sight of under the foundations of some charming villa. On many of the hills a faint outline of the old fortifications may be traced; but they will soon have vanished forever.

It would be difficult to imagine more romantic approaches than those through which the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad finds its way to the latter city. For seventy-five or eighty miles it runs through a bold, mountainous country; out about twenty-five miles before reaching Chattanooga it bends downward into the mighty passes among the Cumberlands in Northern Alabama, and, crawling under rocks and on the brinks of chasms, now running on the edges of valleys clothed in perfect forests, and now shooting into long tunnels, works its way out to the valley. As one approaches Lookout by this route, the effect is extremely imposing; a new and striking view is presented at each instant; the cliffs seem to present no outlet; the train is apparently about to be cast down some yawning ravine, when one sees the continuation of the route.

Sixty-two miles from Chattanooga, on a spur of the Cumberland, at Sewanee, in Tennessee, is situated the "University of the South." This remarkable institution owes its origin to the late Bishop Leonidas Polk of Louisiana. He desired to concentrate the interests of the several southern dioceses of the Episcopal church upon one school where religious education might be given in a thorough manner; and in

1836 he issued an address to the bishops of the various other states of the South, proposing to establish a Christian University. The result was a large assembly of bishops and lay delegates at a meeting on Lookout Mountain's summit, in 1837, at which the general principles of union were discussed; and the city of Sewanee was chosen some time thereafter. The Tennessee Legislature granted a liberal charter, and a domain of ten thousand acres of land had been secured, five hundred thousand dollars obtained toward an endowment, and the corner stone of the central building laid, when the war began. In 1866, very little remained save the domain; but in 1868, after some aid from England, the University was definitely established, and the more important of the schools are now well organized, with able professors at their head. It is under the perpetual control of a board of trustees composed of the bishops of the various Southern States, the senior bishop being ex-officio Chancellor of the University.

The location is charming. The University was started in the midst of an almost unbroken forest, but has now grouped around it a pleasant and refined community. It is about nine miles from the Nashville and Chattanooga Railroad, and the great tunnel on that road passes under its lands. From Cowan, on the line to Sewanee, the local coal mining company has built a good railroad. The Sewanee plateau is two thousand feet above the sea level, in a richly varied country, abounding in cascades, ravines, groves, and uplands. There is an abundance of building material in the quarries of gray, blue, dovecolored and brown limestone, which lie beside the Sewanee Company's railroad, and as soon as the present insufficient endowment is enlarged, the erection of permanent buildings will be begun. There are chalybeate springs in the vicinity, and the slopes of the Cumberland here are admirably adapted for grape culture. Nearly three hundred students are gathered into the various schools. Bishop Quintard, of Tennessee, has done the University great service in collecting money in England for its establishment, and he and others are now anxiously trying to secure five hundred thousand dollars as an enlargement fund.

Riding through the wooded country on the Tennessee's banks, not far from Chattanooga, one autumn day, we dismounted, a large and hungry party, before the door

of a log-cabin, built on a hillside, and hailed the inmates. A fat negro woman appeared at the corner of the rude veranda, and four plump negro babies regarded us through the crevices between the logs with round-eyed fear. "Reckoned she couldn't give us no dinner-no way;" finally was very positive, and said "she had nothing in the house." But persistence was rewarded by permission to return in an hour, and she would see what could be improvised. At the hour's end we found in the cabin a rough table spread with bacon, and corn bread just baked in the ashes; a few sweet potatoes were presently proffered, and some tea was made. By the fireside, rocking a black cherub, was another woman, younger and more comely than our host. These two cultivated a little field; their "husbands," or the men of the house,-for marriage is not always considered necessary among the negroes,-were away at work in another county, and the children rolled in the dirt, and had no thoughts of school. It was the very rudest and most incult life imaginable; the cabin was cleanly, but primitive in all its furnishings; the round of these people's lives seemed to be sleeping and waking, with a struggle be

tween morning and evening to get enough to put into their mouths; they had no thought of thrift or progress. Now and then they went to a religious gathering, and, perhaps, had "experiences," and were converted; then they gradually relapsed back into their dull condition.

The mountain roads in all the section bordering on the Tennessee are beautiful. There are many bold bluffs, one and two hundred feet high, which overlook the stream; and one comes upon stretches of fertile fields. The inhabitants, white or black, are invariably civil and courteous. The farmers, clad in homespun, mounted on raw-boned horses, are willing and eager to compare notes with strangers. They have caught a touch of the inspiration Chattanooga diffuses around itself, and carefully explore their lands in the hope of finding minerals.

The Tennessee is receiving some improvement here and there. At the point called the "Suck," where the waters rush through a gorge in the mountains, over a rocky bed and in a shallow channel, we saw dredge-boats at work. The river has ordinarily more water than the Ohio, and a permanent bed, with little or no sand or

results in increase in commerce between the South-eastern States and the immense region watered by the tributaries of the Mississippi would be of vast im-portance to the country's development.

The attention of the government has been directed towards the needed improvements ever since 1828, and the ruins of the Muscle Shoals Canal, which originally cost $700,000, testify to the thoroughness of the plans then made. If that canal were put in condition again, and the obstructions between Muscle Shoals and Knoxville were removed, America would be the richer by one grand water highway.

Knoxville, once the capital of Tennessee, and one of the most illustrious and venerable of its communities, is situated on the Holston river (which the present legislature saw fit to re-christen as the Tennessee), about one hundred miles above Chattanooga. It is to-day as actively engaged in developing the mighty resources of Eastern Tennessee as is its sister of the valley, and a generous rivalry exists between the two towns, represented in the newspapers by good-humored raillery, in which the editors of both cities seem admirable proficients. Five miles east of Knoxville the lovely French Broad river empties its dancing and frothing current, released from the passes of the North Carolina mountains, into the Tennessee. VOL. VIII-2

PEEPING THROUGH.

Knoxville was named for that worthy Knox who was Secretary of War under the presidency of Washington. The town dates from 1794, when Col. White, proprietor of the lands, laid it out into lots. Three years before, on the 5th of December, 1791, in the midst of Indian massacres and battles, the first Tennessee newspaper was issued by George Roulstone. Although it was printed at Rogersville, it was called The Knoxville Gazette, and was identified with the interests of the then territorial seat of government.

The section of which Knoxville thus became the chief town has a most romantic history. In 1760, there was not a single civilized inhabitant in Tennessee. A few daring woodsmen pushed into the wilderness a few years later, and founded settlements on the Watauga and the Holston, to which flocked settlers from North Carolina and Virginia. North Carolina, in those days a province, was disquieted by taxation which she considered illegal; and thousands who had been compelled to fly from their homes, because they had actively resisted the oppression of Gov. Tryon, took refuge with the adventurers at Watauga. In a few years the surround

AT ETNA COAL MINES.

ing country re-echoed to the blows of the woodmen's axes, and the Indians began to regard their encroachments with alarm and resentment. But shortly before the outbreak of the Revolution, and the downfall of royal government in North Carolina, the members of the Watauga Association had a peaceable meeting with the Cherokees and their chiefs, and purchased from them, for two thousand pounds, all the lands on which they had settled. The Elizabethton of to-day, a little mountain hamlet, occupies the site of the old Watauga. Shortly after the purchase, the Cherokees began open hostilities, and the Tennesseean had then, as for many a long year thereafter, to risk his life daily. Battles ensued; the Indians organized expeditions to cut off and annihilate the infant colonies; war raged through all the North Carolina mountains and along the Unaka range. The result was an invasion of the Cherokee towns by the militia of orth Carolina and the settlements. Eighteen hundred men, armed with rifles, tomahawks and butcher knives, thus saith the ancient chronicle, marched across the Holston and the French Broad, and drove the Indians everywhere before them. A pious chaplain accompanied this little army of invasion, and was the first Christian minister that ever preached in Tennessee. Immigration flowed after the army, and the Indians were dismayed. The Watauga settlement, triumphant, petitioned for annexation to North Carolina, and its prayer was granted. The legislature of that State

in 1777 founded Washington county, which occupied the whole district now included within the present boundaries of Tennessee. Two years later explorers had planted a field with corn on the spot where the present city of Nashville stands.

The recital of the border wars, and of dashing expeditions down the Tennessee river, would require volumes. Men sprang up, rude, hardy, brave the out-growth of their time; their brains were filled with visions of empire; they fought by day and planned by night. After the independence of the United States had been acknowledged by Great Britain, each State endeavored to relieve the indebtedness of the country, by cessions to Congress of their unappropriated lands; and, accordingly, North Carolina ceded her new acquisition, now known as Tennessee. This made political orphans of our brave Watauga settlers and their followers, so they forthwith created an independent State called Franklin, which was ruled over by an energetic and daring man named Sevier, and maintained a stormy existence from 1784 to 1788, during much of which time it was considered by the government of North Carolina as practically in revolt. Sevier was engaged in many a daring battle and mountain skirmish; was once carried off by his friends at the moment a court in North Carolina was trying him for his offences; and was, after Franklin became United States territory, sent to Congress. associates in the government of Franklin,Cocke, White, the founder of Knoxville, Ramsey, Doak, Center, Reese, Houston, Newell, Weir and Conway,-were, subsequently, leading spirits in the affairs of Tennessee. Greenville, the present home of ex-President Andrew Johnson, and a pretty village set down graciously among exquisite mountains, was founded in the days of Franklin, and was the original seat of government. In 1785, the third Franklin convention was held there, in a court-house built of unhewn logs, and there the State constitution was finally adopted.

His

White's Fort, the location of Knoxville, was, at the time of the fall of Franklin, a stockaded settlement, to which settlers were rapidly flocking. On the high plateau which, extending southward, terminated in a bold bluff on the Holston

river, they saw excellent chances for defence; and thus the site of the city was determined. In 1794, Governor Blount, controlling the territory for the United States, had his cabin at Knoxville, and was kept busy day and night devising measures for the defence of the young settlement against the thoroughly maddened Cherokees. At one time, when the fighting force of Knoxville was forty men, more than fifteen hundred Indians marched against the town, but were turned aside by some trivial circumstance, and the colony was saved.

As Knoxville had been the seat of the territorial government, so in 1796 it became the State capital, and there the convention met, and the first constitution was adopted. There, too, the "Washington College, in honor of the illustrious president of the United States," was incorporated; and there General Jackson in the convention, suggested that the new State adopt the beautiful Indian name of Tennessee. Knoxville shared the honors of the government seat with Kingston, Murfreesboro and Nashville alternately, but in 1817 it became the capital for the last time. The center of population moved beyond the Cumberland Mountains, and the state officials went with it. To Knoxville were left the souvenirs of the bloody times in which it sprang into being, of councils with Cherokee chieftains, and struggles against their warriors, before the current of immigration came.

Knoxville is to-day a flourishing town with nearly fifteen thousand population. It has more capital than Chattanooga, but not the same wonderful transportation facilities. More actual business is, however, probably done there; the town has a large wholesale trade, and is a kind of supply depot for the mountains. On the

line of the road from New York to New Orleans, it has hopes of other communications shortly. The subject of narrowgauge railroads has very much interested the people of Eastern Tennessee, and they will, in a few years, traverse the valleys in all directions. A direct line from Knoxville to Macon in Georgia has been projected; and the completion of the Knoxville and Kentucky roads would be of great importance to the town. The general government is erecting a fine custom house and post-office in the city. Thirty miles to the northward are large coal fields, close to veins of iron; in Carter and Greene county there are iron mines, which supply the rolling mills and car-wheel establishments at Knoxville. There is an extensive manufacture of glass in that section; the lumber interests are large, and considerable shipments are made to New England. Five miles east of Knoxville is a fine marble quarry, operated by capitalists from St. Louis. At Coal Creek and Caryville, some thirty-five miles north of the town, there are extensive coal mining interests. The whole of Eastern Tennessee offers the best of inducements for the practical farmer, the wool grower, and the investor in mines and minerals.

The social condition of the people varies with the location. In a previous paper I have described the dwellers in the mountains bordering on North Carolina; those living in other remote counties are much similar in habit and intelligence. The political sentiment is yet, as it was during the war difficult to classify. There were then hosts of uncompromising Union men in Eastern Tennessee; so there were, also, many committed to the interests of the Confederacy, and both classes were much broken in fortune, and possibly discouraged by the marching and counter