1892.]

pose was to visit several of our stations to the north and north east, the farthest being about ninety miles distant. It was my first experience in barrow travel, and I found it more comfortable than either mule litter or cart. We travelled on an average twenty-five miles a day. The second day we reached one of our stations called Nan Tsoca Ch'wan where we stopped for a little while at the shop of a native Christian, Mr. Chang, to deliver some silver which he was to pay to some of the country help

Quite an interesting story was related to me by Mr. Chalfant of his early life.

The great Tai Ping Rebellion had extended to this province. The people, in or der to protect themselves, built stone forts on the summits of hills; the ruins of many of these forts can be seen to this day. During the day the men would work in the fields after having first posted sentinels; at night or in case of a sudden alarm they would return to the fort for safety.

It happened one day, while Mr. Chang was working in the fields with the others that the alarm was given of an approaching body of rebels. In attempting to reach the fort Mr. Chang was intercepted and captured.

The rebels perceiving that he was a well-to-do man determined to have him ransomed if possible instead of putting him to death as they usually dealt with their captives. They, therefore, sent a message to the fort to the effect that if a certain number of horses were given to them they would release Mr. Chang; if not, they would put him to death. The required number of horses were found but who was to take them to the camp of the rebels, for they well knew that the man who would deliver the horses would be seized and put to death in Mr. Chang's

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place? No one seemed willing to take the risk until at last his brother volunteered. When he arrived he was promptly seized and bound and threatened to be put to death the following day, while his brother was released. During the night he was fortunate enough to loosen his bonds and make his escape, but he never fully recovered from the effects of the fright.

After examining Mr. Chang's oilmill we started again in order to reach the next village, where we were to stop for the night. Just outside of the village we were welcomed by a crowd of school boys from the mission school. They greeted us with smiling faces, wishing us peace. Such a contrast to the jeering and hooting reception tendered us at some of the villages we had passed through! We stopped at the schoolhouse which also serves the purpose of a church. Here all the Christians in the place assembled to greet us and meet for service. After service we retired for the night, pastors, helper, and barrowmen all sleeping in the one room, as there was no inn in the village.

Just before retiring one of the barrowmen went out and returned with the wheel of his barrow under his arm in order that his barrow might not be stolen.

The next morning we started again on our journey. Up to this time we had enjoyed mild, pleasant weather, but now we had to travel directly in the face of a cold biting N. E. wind, which made travelling difficult and slow; with two suits of wadded cotton clothing, it was difficult to keep warm; but in foreign clothes we could not. have stood it at all. We reached Küchow city 22 miles to the N. E. after dark. Our destination was a small station in the mountains to the N. E. of this city.

CHINESE SUPERSTITIONS.

As we were passing out of the suburb. I noticed on the wall found opposite all temple entrances some tiles on which was represented a popular Chinese supersti

tion-it was that of a large fish leaping upward toward a gateway. The Chinese, aware of the leaping qualities of the carp, have a superstition to the effect, that if he succeeds in leaping through this gateway, which is the Gate of Heaven, he is transformed into a dragon and as such becomes an object of worship as controller of thunder and rain. On this wall there was also pasted up a poem written by the mayor of the city on the subject of "Litigation" in which he warns the people against lawsuits and shows how little are the advantages to be gained therefrom. A tract on this subject might not be without advantage in western countries.

We reached a mountain village that night. Our bed which had also to serve as a table, was a broken-down k'ang (i. e., a bed made of mud brick), the room was full of travellers and the air thick with smoke from the fire on which food was being prepared. But we were too tired to mind these discomforts and soon fell asleep. About 10 o'clock next morning a snow storm which had come on during the night cleared up so as to enable us to go on with our toilsome journey over the mountains. We still had to go about 15 miles, and to walk the whole way as riding was out of the question.

After a difficult and exhausting journey, we came in sight of the village, and arrived there at dark. We stopped at the house. of a native Christian who had fitted up a room to serve as a chapel. Here we were warmly welcomed by the Christians, who could scarcely believe that we had made our way to them in such weather, and over such a road, and expressed their appreciation in the highest terms. Their warm welcome made us forget the hardships undergone.

The next day was Sunday. The whole day our room was full of villagers, who had come to see the foreigners, which they did to their hearts content, gaping and staring at us, scarcely giving us time to eat.

[August,

By and by some of the Christians began to drop in, and one of them immediately seized the opportunity to preach to the crowd.

"Why," he began, "do you think these foreign gentlemen, these pastors, came over the mountains in this terrible weather, and endured such hardships? It was to bring you good news, to tell you how you could be saved from your sins. God has been gracious in permitting them to grow up in a Christian land, and now they have left their parents, their friends and their country, in order to bring you the blessed message of salvation."

His words were earnest and heartfelt and a fitting introduction to the words of Mr. Chalfant and the helper in which the "old, old story," was told again. One man was evidently impressed by what he heard.

The Christians at this station are not more than half a dozen, but, since my arrival in China, I have not met elsewhere such simple-hearted, earnest Christians. As I looked upon their earnest faces lighted up with a light that could only have come from on high, and then glanced at the stupid, besotted faces of their fellow-villagers, I realized, as never before, the enlightening power of the Gospel, and the difference it makes in the hearts and lives of men. On the following morning we started on our way homeward accompanied by some of these faithful Christians, who not only guided us over the mountains, but rendered effective assistance in pulling the barrow, and shovelling the snow away.

On our way we visited another station, where we examined the girls' school, and held a communion service. At another village, while stopping for dinner, we examined an inquirer who made an excellent profession and will be baptized in the

autumn.

Two of the helpers, whom we met at one of the stations, reported increased interest throughout that region,

1892.]

I have often made mental comparisons between the Mexican Christian and the American Christian. Having spent two years in pastoral work at home before. entering the Foreign Missionary field, a comparison of this sort has been a most natural one. Many things lead one at first to pronounce a rather harsh, and possibly an unfair verdict upon the Mexican brother. Our converts come largely from the lower strata of society, and with little in their antecedents to help them in their moral and spiritual development. There is among them an almost absolute lack of culture and refinement. Mexicans are for the most part lazy, dirty and improvident in their habits, faults which an American deems altogether unpardonable. It is not impossible that we Americans lay an undue emphasis on points in Christian character, such as cleanliness, and a provident activity in which it is easy for us to excel. And when we find these traits woefully lacking in our Mexican brother, it leads us to overlook the fact, that in certain other respects, he comes nearer to the spirit of the New Testament teachings than ourselves.

1. The Mexican Christian excels in true courtesy. When I go into the houses of our poorest people, I am invariably greeted with courtesy both of word and of deed. The whole family rise to salute me, and if they are eating the scantiest of meals I am invited to partake. I do not recollect this to have been the case either among the tenement-poor of New York or the lumbermen of the pine-woods in Minnesota. I have never been greeted here with the cold frigidity or the coarse sullenness exhibited by many among the working-classes at home. In my relations with the Mexican Christians I always feel that I am dealing with gentlemen and gentle

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women. They exemply the charity described by Paul "which doth not behave itself unseemly, and is not easily provoked."

2. Their trust in Providence and patience in suffering is something remarkable. When the last piece of corn-cake is about to be divided by the mother among the half-naked and half-starved children, and the father has been without work for weeks and months, I have never heard the bitter cursings of God and man, in which some Americans indulge under similar circumstances. "Let God's will be done!" "God will take care of us!" are expressions very frequently on the lips of the lower-classes. For many months past we have seen a great deal of distress, owing to the failure of crops last year. Food is scarce, prices are high, trade is dull, the people have swarmed in from the country to the city, and the labor-market is glutted. Corn is two dollars a bushel, when cheapest, and rags and ruin are seen everywhere.

I know several cases in our congregation where a wife and mother is compelled to grind corn on her knees, in a smoky kitchen, from 6 A. M. till midnight in order to get food for the family. She lives with her children in a dark room with earthen floor, no windows and one small entrance. The furniture is limited to a few earthen dishes, a stone for grinding corn, and two low rush-chairs. Yet when I go to visit. them, I am always greeted with happy smiles, contented faces, and expressions of trustful confidence in the protection of a Heavenly father. In fact I hardly dare to emphasize those parts of the Sermon on the Mount and of the xii Chap. of Luke, which urge us to be unanxious about the morrow. They are apt to be taken in too bald and material a sense,